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IT Guy posted:Speaking of upgrading, I had a hell of a time doing the web upgrade last time, what browsers are known to work with the web upgrade? I forgot to post about this but I recently performed a web upgrade using FF13 on Win8 Developer Preview without any issues.
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Jul 23, 2012 06:03
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I'm doing a web upgrade from 8.0.4 now with Chrome on Mac and that part went well, just waiting for it to come back from reboot now. edit: done! Gism0 fucked around with this message at 06:36 on Jul 23, 2012 |
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Jul 23, 2012 06:31
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hotsauce posted:I have an ancient HP Mediasmart EX487 server that I haven't used in over two years. I fired it back up today so I can get my old files (obviously not important at all) off of it so I can get rid of it. I don't know what OS you've got on the computer you've got access to, but you should be able to do something similar to what I'm about to suggest on any OS. Ping the broadcast address for your network, first. Most routers are going to be on a /24 subnet (mask of 255.255.255.0), so you'll want to ping 192.168.1.255 or 10.0.0.255 or whatever the highest IP in your subnet is. That should cause every addressable device to send a ping reply, though you may not see them. Then open a command prompt or terminal, and run "arp -a" to see a list of every IP your computer can resolve to a MAC address. Dig through those and try connecting to everything on your subnet. If you don't find the computer that way, it either isn't on that subnet, or doesn't have a connection at all. Good luck!
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Jul 23, 2012 12:49
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G-Prime posted:I don't know what OS you've got on the computer you've got access to, but you should be able to do something similar to what I'm about to suggest on any OS. Ping the broadcast address for your network, first. Most routers are going to be on a /24 subnet (mask of 255.255.255.0), so you'll want to ping 192.168.1.255 or 10.0.0.255 or whatever the highest IP in your subnet is. That should cause every addressable device to send a ping reply, though you may not see them. Then open a command prompt or terminal, and run "arp -a" to see a list of every IP your computer can resolve to a MAC address. Dig through those and try connecting to everything on your subnet. If you don't find the computer that way, it either isn't on that subnet, or doesn't have a connection at all. Good luck! Why have I never heard this before? This is awesome.
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Jul 24, 2012 00:26
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Hiyoshi posted:Why have I never heard this before? This is awesome. It's not something that comes up often. I work for an ISP and we had sent a switch out to a site, the tech connected it, and left. The next day, we realized nobody had tested to see if we had management to its IP. Then we realized that the engineer who had configured it forgotten to write down which IP he used out of a /24. Options came down to installing NMAP, blindly guessing, or ping/arp. We went with the easy one. It's just little tricks like this that make working in a networking field worth while.
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Jul 24, 2012 01:18
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I'm going to have to remember that. There's been many a time when I have forgotten to write down static IP assignments on a device and then realized a few months later that I either don't remember its address, never wrote it down, or lost the paper/file it was on.
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Jul 24, 2012 03:56
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G-Prime posted:It's not something that comes up often. I work for an ISP and we had sent a switch out to a site, the tech connected it, and left. The next day, we realized nobody had tested to see if we had management to its IP. Then we realized that the engineer who had configured it forgotten to write down which IP he used out of a /24. Options came down to installing NMAP, blindly guessing, or ping/arp. We went with the easy one. It's just little tricks like this that make working in a networking field worth while. You learn something new everyday! Had to bust out NMAP the other day as I couldn't find the ip of a remote switch.
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Jul 24, 2012 04:07
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Some of my customers thought I was insane with labeling every last loving thing I deployed, but I still get emails from ex coworkers telling me basically "oh god thank you the documentation is a mangled loving mess I love your stupid labels so much"
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Jul 24, 2012 12:15
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Never mind I'm a dummy. Synology had a calculator thing on their website.
luigionlsd fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Jul 24, 2012 |
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Jul 24, 2012 14:59
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Tom's Hardware has a review of the WD Red drives: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/red-wd20efrx-wd30efrx-nas,3248.html TL;DR: They're pretty slow but they run way cooler and use less power than the rest of the drives out there.   
Bob Morales fucked around with this message at 15:33 on Jul 24, 2012 |
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Jul 24, 2012 15:31
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Bob Morales posted:Tom's Hardware has a review of the WD Red drives: The only thing they're poor at is transferring lots of small files. Most of us cram our NAS's full of mp3's, photos, and movies, in which case, the drive does just fine, and will not be the bottleneck on a gig network connection. I'm hoping to pick up a pair of 3TB reds when the prices come down a bit more.
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Jul 24, 2012 16:59
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Bob Morales posted:Tom's Hardware has a review of the WD Red drives:  I assume that's almost entirely due to platter density.
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Jul 24, 2012 17:19
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Bring back 5.25" drives!
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Jul 24, 2012 17:52
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DNova posted:Bring back 5.25" drives! It's not like I need the four 5.25" bays in this tower for, well, anything else really.
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Jul 24, 2012 17:56
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I did some research and started getting my gear sorted. I'm currently resilvering new drive 3 of 4. I thought I remembered hot swapping the drives previously - pull one out, slap a replacement in, and everything worked automagically from there. No this time! After some aborted attempts, it seems the easiest way is to bring the next drive to be swapped offline, do the hardware swap, do a `zpool replace` with the new drive and wait for the resilvering to finish. iostat -En tells you which logical name corresponds with which serial number so I wrote down which serial number was physically in which position before I turned the machine on. It looks like I should be able to export the pool, install a new operating system, and import the pool again without any trouble. Upgrading versions for the filesystem seems pretty simple too, and can be done in place. Everytime I play with zfs I'm a little trepid - I'm inexperienced and I usually learn best by making mistakes and I don't really want to make mistakes with my server. However, with a little reading and careful commands, it usually just works. Want to replace drive with larger capacity ones? Want to upgrade? Want to do whatever? It just works. Hopefully by this time tomorrow I'll have the last drive installed and should have the larger pool which has me a bit excited! I'll probably give it a couple weeks before dinking around with the OS, but everything so far has been easy. EDIT: I didn't buy the red drives though  Am I going to regret this?
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Jul 24, 2012 19:47
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I never knew about iostat -En to see serial numnbers, except it doesn't work for me. It says Serial Number: and then nothing. cfgadm -alv seems to work, and SMARTD works well enough, though I have to massage it to read the disks that aren't on my SAS controller.
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Jul 24, 2012 20:25
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Bob Morales posted:Tom's Hardware has a review of the WD Red drives: Sure wish they'd have compared them to the WD EARS/EARX series instead of some of those drives that I'd never put in a home NAS anyway.
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Jul 24, 2012 20:27
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Telex posted:Sure wish they'd have compared them to the WD EARS/EARX series instead of some of those drives that I'd never put in a home NAS anyway. I would assume the WD30EZRX probably performs pretty similar as the EARS/EARX (note: I didn't look up any specs, basic assumption).
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Jul 24, 2012 20:42
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FISHMANPET posted:I never knew about iostat -En to see serial numnbers, except it doesn't work for me. It says Serial Number: and then nothing. cfgadm -alv seems to work, and SMARTD works well enough, though I have to massage it to read the disks that aren't on my SAS controller. It only shows the first 6 or so digits printed on the label so it's enough to ID the old drives. I'm not as sure about the new drives because, for better or worse, the serial numbers span about a thousand #s so the first few digits are the same. don't gently caress me again WD... 
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Jul 24, 2012 22:17
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Delta-Wye posted:It only shows the first 6 or so digits printed on the label so it's enough to ID the old drives. For me it just shows nothing, and even if it was a few digits, that wouldn't help me as the first 15 or so digits of my Samsung drives are the same. code:
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Jul 24, 2012 22:20
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Telex posted:Sure wish they'd have compared them to the WD EARS/EARX series instead of some of those drives that I'd never put in a home NAS anyway. So what I'm saying is if you're building a new NAS, get Red, but if you've already got a NAS there's no point in running out and replacing all your drives.
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Jul 25, 2012 02:17
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G-Prime posted:I don't know what OS you've got on the computer you've got access to, but you should be able to do something similar to what I'm about to suggest on any OS. Ping the broadcast address for your network, first. Most routers are going to be on a /24 subnet (mask of 255.255.255.0), so you'll want to ping 192.168.1.255 or 10.0.0.255 or whatever the highest IP in your subnet is. That should cause every addressable device to send a ping reply, though you may not see them. Then open a command prompt or terminal, and run "arp -a" to see a list of every IP your computer can resolve to a MAC address. Dig through those and try connecting to everything on your subnet. If you don't find the computer that way, it either isn't on that subnet, or doesn't have a connection at all. Good luck! You just changed my life.
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Jul 25, 2012 02:38
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DrDork posted:From everything that all the sites have said about them, they're not speed-demons, but they're "fast enough" that they'll keep up with a gigE connection, especially in a RAID or multi-disk setup. So, yeah, you trade off some theoretical speed, but you get better power use, better temps, and a MUCH better warranty. You probably would never notice the speed difference, anyhow--if you're connecting to it over a "normal" (not fiber or something crazy) network, any drive that can reliably push 80+MB/s is going to be pretty close to indistinguishable from each other. The firmware of these HDs is specifically tuned so as to work better in (hardware) RAID compared to other commercial class HDs. The slow iops can be masked by parallel seeks from other spindles and a large stripe size.
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Jul 25, 2012 02:39
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FISHMANPET posted:For me it just shows nothing, and even if it was a few digits, that wouldn't help me as the first 15 or so digits of my Samsung drives are the same. Weird, maybe it's not supported by your controller? code:code:code: code:Delta-Wye fucked around with this message at 06:56 on Jul 25, 2012 |
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Jul 25, 2012 05:19
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Ouch, hope you have backups or can manage to identify what part of your data was lost to understand the impact. I run RAIDZ1 and know I'm playing with fire... but I have backups galore to where I have more issues managing outdated backup sets than worrying about my existing data.
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Jul 25, 2012 15:53
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There's no data loss. He's trying to replace drives to get a bigger pool while both drives are online, but it looks like the old drive he's replacing crapped out before it could copy over to the new one. He can still rebuild the new one from the rest of the drives since it's RAIDZ. And if there's data loss, ZFS will tell you what files are affected. I had 3 unrecoverable errors in my array, and I know which two files it was (and have dealt with those).
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Jul 25, 2012 16:47
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FISHMANPET posted:There's no data loss. He's trying to replace drives to get a bigger pool while both drives are online, but it looks like the old drive he's replacing crapped out before it could copy over to the new one. He can still rebuild the new one from the rest of the drives since it's RAIDZ. I would be totally aok with data loss across like 4/5s of the drive, and the other 5th is packed up so whatev. And, being the badass motherfucker zfs is I slapped the old drive in, scrubed, and canceled the replacement via a detach and: code: ...Or I have silent data errors...  Currently the drive I suspect is bad is in my desktop getting reamed with a dd and then a smart diagnostic test. Is there a better way to stress test a new drive? Google gave me a bunch of sketchy ideas that aren't much better than pushing the disk with a dd operation and observing for errors.
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Jul 25, 2012 17:11
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Delta-Wye posted:...Or I have silent data errors...
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Jul 25, 2012 18:24
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FISHMANPET posted:Ain't no such thing, ZFS keeps a checksum of all the files, that's how it knows there are no data errors, the scrub checks every block to make sure it's still good. I would think so too, but I'm not sure how it's physically possible. I had three out of four disks in, rebuilding the fourth, and it started having read errors on one of the three remaining. As far as I understand it there shouldn't have been enough information available to rebuild without error? I don't know; could be there were recoverable errors. Or the write errors were the root of the problem? Now that I think the fire is put out I'm going to have to spend some time tonight debugging which drive had the problem.
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Jul 25, 2012 18:39
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Has anyone ever tried to install extra software on to a Western Digital My Book World Edition? I was looking around google to see if there was perhaps some sort of custom firmware, since the WD firmware seems to blow, and came across this: http://highlevelbits.free.fr/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=75&Itemid=67&lang=en http://highlevelbits.free.fr/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=42&Itemid=68&lang=en This would give me some of the features I want from the higher priced NAS devices to hold me over until I can afford to spring for a new one.
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Jul 25, 2012 19:29
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Delta-Wye posted:I would think so too, but I'm not sure how it's physically possible. I had three out of four disks in, rebuilding the fourth, and it started having read errors on one of the three remaining. As far as I understand it there shouldn't have been enough information available to rebuild without error? I don't know; could be there were recoverable errors. Or the write errors were the root of the problem? Now that I think the fire is put out I'm going to have to spend some time tonight debugging which drive had the problem. In any case, this poo poo is why you run R6/RZ2.
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Jul 25, 2012 19:34
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evil_bunnY posted:Read errors just means the checksum and the data weren't consistent. It can try again. Is there any way to 'promote' a RZ1 to an RZ2 with the addition of additional disks? I am stuck in a 4-bay NAS case at the moment but interested in replacing that already anyways. EDIT: Survey says.. no!  FYI I guess you can plug in the 'new drive' and do the replacement while the old drive is still in place so poo poo doesn't go tits up while you're doing so but I don't have space and I am worried the power supply won't support it (it's actually on my list of things that might have caused this last problem). Delta-Wye fucked around with this message at 19:50 on Jul 25, 2012 |
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Jul 25, 2012 19:37
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raidz2 is a much larger investment to get a reasonable amount of usable space though. I'm hoping it's overkill for home use, seeing how zfs lets you resuscitate a fairly broken array. I've ordered four 3TB WD Reds and plan to create a raidz1 across them, then migrate all the data from a bunch of JBOD 2tb wd greens over to them before creating a second four drive raidz1 across those. I'd love to get another four 3TB wd reds and create an 8-drive raidz2 from the start but that's a lot of money!
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Jul 25, 2012 19:47
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Delta-Wye posted:I would think so too, but I'm not sure how it's physically possible. error1 posted:I'm hoping it's overkill for home use, seeing how zfs lets you resuscitate a fairly broken array.
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Jul 25, 2012 22:06
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G-Prime posted:I don't know what OS you've got on the computer you've got access to, but you should be able to do something similar to what I'm about to suggest on any OS. Ping the broadcast address for your network, first. Most routers are going to be on a /24 subnet (mask of 255.255.255.0), so you'll want to ping 192.168.1.255 or 10.0.0.255 or whatever the highest IP in your subnet is. That should cause every addressable device to send a ping reply, though you may not see them. Then open a command prompt or terminal, and run "arp -a" to see a list of every IP your computer can resolve to a MAC address. Dig through those and try connecting to everything on your subnet. If you don't find the computer that way, it either isn't on that subnet, or doesn't have a connection at all. Good luck! It's Windows 7. Thanks for the advice! I'm not home but will try this weekend.
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Jul 26, 2012 05:13
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I'm trying to debug what's going on with this last drive. Currently, everything in the NAS looks fine except I have one last 320GB drive I'd love to swap out. I've tried a couple different things with the 'bad' drive, including swapping it for one of the drives that seemed to work. The swap would /not/ go through and kept giving me arcane errors like:code: smart tools on solaris seem to be junk so I swapped the drive over to my linux box and the only issue that seems to crop up is: 199 UDMA_CRC_Error_Count 0x0032 200 200 000 Old_age Always - 5 The first attempt made it go to 2 or 3, second attempt to 5. Googling indicates that is usually a cabling issue of some sort and not critical. I would like to get this drive to freak out so that I can have some excuse to RMA it pronto but on my Linux box where I feel comfortable working, I get no errors at all. Any ideas? EDIT: Also, dmesg on the NAS shows a ton of crap like code:Delta-Wye fucked around with this message at 08:39 on Jul 26, 2012 |
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Jul 26, 2012 08:32
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If I buy a gigabit switch, connect a NAS to it and a computer to it, then connect that to a non-gigabit router, will I still get gigabit speeds between the NAS and the computer?
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Jul 26, 2012 21:02
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Yes. Just not to anything plugged into the ports on the router.
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Jul 26, 2012 21:07
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Akujunkan posted:If I buy a gigabit switch, connect a NAS to it and a computer to it, then connect that to a non-gigabit router, will I still get gigabit speeds between the NAS and the computer? Yes, that is how i have my network setup -- assuming that "then connect that to a non-gigabit router" means plugging the switch into the router. The router should be connected to the switch and the internet, and everything else plugs directly into the switch.
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Jul 26, 2012 21:08
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Awesome, thanks. My mom needs a few TB to work with on her photos and I wanted to move her to something better than the slow USB 2.0 connection she's on.
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Jul 26, 2012 21:26
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