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LloydDobler posted:An accurate boost gage or a wideband AF gauge would be more useful. Also a scan tool. All in about the same price range. Ooh, good idea. I forgot how affordable scan tools have gotten. The Foxwell NT300 that IPD sells looks like a good buy. Or there's this, which is twice as much but does a lot more and is OBD I compatible... Or I could get the Foxwell and the A-pillar boost gauge kit. That's probably the route I'll go.
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Aug 15, 2012 18:11
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zundfolge posted:atomicthumbs: Thanks a ton for the tip and manual. I've got a Haynes manual, but that one looks really helpful. I put in 2.5 gallons of new fuel on top of whatever old fuel might've been in there, but I'm pretty sure it's not making it out of the fuel tank in the first place, so no big deal. In any case, I've ordered a siphon pump to empty it.
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Aug 15, 2012 20:46
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Hello, I'm shopping around for my first car and I spotted this. http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/3205064696.html It seems to be in good shape and the price is low. I called the owner and he said the interior was in good shape, but when i asked for the VIN he wouldn't give it to me. I tried running the VIN from the plates in the picture but all the variations I tried didn't bring up this model of car.
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Aug 15, 2012 21:39
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Why won't he give you the VIN? Is he afraid you're going to find out that he built it from two salvaged wrecks that were welded together? I can't think of a legitimate reason to not give out a VIN to a prospective buyer, so it must be something along those lines.
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Aug 15, 2012 22:08
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He advertises it as a V70XC, but there's nothing XC about it in those pictures-they have different bumpers and trim compared to a normal V70, and they came with different wheels, too. That one has wheels from a V70R, but it doesn't have the special front bumper that the R came with. It's hard to say for sure what it is, but between those inconsistencies and the fact that the seller won't give up the VIN, I'd pass.
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Aug 15, 2012 22:31
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zundfolge posted:He advertises it as a V70XC, but there's nothing XC about it in those pictures-they have different bumpers and trim compared to a normal V70, and they came with different wheels, too. That one has wheels from a V70R, but it doesn't have the special front bumper that the R came with. It's hard to say for sure what it is, but between those inconsistencies and the fact that the seller won't give up the VIN, I'd pass. That isn't an XC. I have a 99 v70xc that should be its twin. Honestly, I would rather have a v70, but all wheel drive is something I need I need once every three years living in the south.
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Aug 16, 2012 01:05
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Welp I fixed the boost issue. It was leaking through the vacuum tree. I was still getting misfires though, so I did a compession test. 90 across 1, 2, and 3. I didn't bother with 4 and 5. Putting oil in the cylinder jumped it to 190 in cylinder 1. The Volvo Shop in Ravenna, OH quoted something like $1300 for a used engine and 14 hrs of labor. I suppose this is the time to sell it, but I can't bring myself to. I've never been able to sell a car. 850 Rs aren't exactly common in Ohio and I definitely don't want to hop in the used car market again. Gonna need a car for work as I work from my car so gently caress. Maybe I should hop back into fieros again lol.
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Aug 16, 2012 19:10
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astrollinthepork posted:Welp I fixed the boost issue. It was leaking through the vacuum tree. I was still getting misfires though, so I did a compession test. 90 across 1, 2, and 3. I didn't bother with 4 and 5. Putting oil in the cylinder jumped it to 190 in cylinder 1. That's not bad at all for that kind of work, honestly. If they can turn it around in a decent timeframe I'd just have them do the work and keep it.
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Aug 16, 2012 20:14
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http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/3209917835.html Crossposting this from Craigslist Gold.
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Aug 16, 2012 20:42
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Stilling looking for cars and I spotted this. I am half wanting something with plenty of room for hauling, and having a turbo is nice. http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/cto/3192965307.html
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Aug 16, 2012 20:50
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atomicthumbs posted:http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/3209917835.html I would buy this in cash for the asking price today if it were nearby. Between a plane ticket and getting it home, though, I'd end up paying twice that.  It's even the color that I want.
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Aug 16, 2012 21:09
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zundfolge posted:That's not bad at all for that kind of work, honestly. If they can turn it around in a decent timeframe I'd just have them do the work and keep it. Yeah, if you like the car otherwise, that's not a bad deal. Could you get a car that you like more for $1300 + whatever you sell your current car for?
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Aug 17, 2012 00:53
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Thanks guys, I think I just needed a bit of encouragement. Though I did find an attractive deal on a polestar tuned C30 in my desperation. I've never financed a car before though and it's a scary prospect. I'm going to hope that the 850 will hold together for another month or two and see what I can do with it. I ran across another Volvo shop in Eastern Ohio a few weeks ago, but completely forgot the name and location. It was fairly close to the WV border if I remember correctly. Does anyone have any idea what I'm talking about? *edit* I realize that reading my post made it sound like it was $1300 for the engine and labor. $1300 is just for the engine  Only 69k miles though. There's another with like 140k for $800. So $1300 + 14 hrs of labor at whatever rate they want. I vaguely remember that he said it was $1400 for labor but that can't possibly be right.
astrollinthepork fucked around with this message at 06:28 on Aug 17, 2012 |
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Aug 17, 2012 06:23
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Some shops do charge $100 an hour so 1.4k for 14 hours is right, but I'd try finding a shop with a cheaper rate. Most of the ones I've seen charge about $75 per hour unless they are a specialty shop that only service one or two makes. Either way an engine replacement is not going to be cheap if you pay someone to do it.
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Aug 17, 2012 08:05
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Hello, still looking for a new car here. I saw this Volvo wagon and thought it looked pretty nice, having a wagon with all that hauling space would be nice for the work I do. I will admit I kinda wish it had a turbo, but the price is nice and low. http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/cto/3207216447.html 
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Aug 17, 2012 14:51
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Terrible Robot posted:Some shops do charge $100 an hour so 1.4k for 14 hours is right, but I'd try finding a shop with a cheaper rate. Most of the ones I've seen charge about $75 per hour unless they are a specialty shop that only service one or two makes. Either way an engine replacement is not going to be cheap if you pay someone to do it. Depends on the area. Around me, $85-$90 is the absolute poo poo minimum, you'll pay $85/hour at Pep Boys or a gas station. Decent shops all seem to run at least $110, and the two Volvo shops near me get ~$135/hour. In completely unrelated news, I try to do all my own work.  Astrollinthepork, get an engine built up and throw it in the back, take off friday and bring both down here for a three-day weekend. We'll get you squared away. It's basically the same motor as we rebuilt in my wife's car. Buy a runner from a salvage yard (not a you-pull-it place) and vet it on an engine stand first. Do the needful while you have it on the stand: valve job, compression and leakdown tests, all new seals, new plugs, etc.
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Aug 17, 2012 15:05
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Welp gently caress, maybe it was $100. I'm used to indie shops around here charging $50-75. Dealers max out at $85. Splizwarf, that would be awesome. I'm sure I can do the work, it's just a matter of facilities. After never doing anything more difficult than the PCV job on an 850, I may need some guidance. I can't keep this straight for the life of me, but where are you in PA?
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Aug 17, 2012 15:27
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Nope! Fredericksburg, VA. About an hour south of DC on I-95. No idea what you're looking at for a trip route/time, honestly; I don't know if there's anything better than doglegging east into PA then south. It's a long trip, unfortunately; from us it's probably a 6 hour trip to the Ohio end of the PA Turnpike. On the other hand, it would've been just as bad (worse by about an hour, really) if we were still in PA, we lived next to Philly! 
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Aug 17, 2012 15:57
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Shiiit, Fredericksburg isn't but an hour and a half from me (Charlottesville/Nelson Co.), if ya'll need an extra pair of hands or whatever. Shop prices around here are pretty good it seems. Most of the dealers I've been to charge $85-100 and the independents are anywhere from $65-110. Hell the Land Rover/Jag shop I used to work at only charged $90 an hour, which undercut the Rover dealer in Richmond by about $30 or so. Terrible Robot fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Aug 17, 2012 |
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Aug 17, 2012 16:48
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Terrible Robot, we might be coming down to Nelson the weekend after next, the Virginia Craft Brewing Festival is happening that Saturday (the 25th) at Devil's Backbone Brewery. It looks like it's gonna be a rad time. Let's trade a high-five, maybe drink a beer or two.
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Aug 17, 2012 17:14
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It's a little over 9 hours, which would be quite a feat in this car. I'm going to see what my options are as far as even procuring one of these engines and get back to you. Sounds fun though.
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Aug 17, 2012 17:28
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Splizwarf posted:Terrible Robot, we might be coming down to Nelson the weekend after next, the Virginia Craft Brewing Festival is happening that Saturday (the 25th) at Devil's Backbone Brewery. It looks like it's gonna be a rad time. Let's trade a high-five, maybe drink a beer or two. gently caress yes, I am down. Devil's Backbone has some really great beer, and the Wild Wolf Brewing Co. is literally 2 miles down the road and also has some fantastic brews and food. In fact, I took my cousin beer-snobbing just the other day: I don't remember exactly what this was called, but it tasted like mocha and heaven. And beer.  While I'm at it, here's some old Volvo's I've spotted around C-Ville.  This thing is absolutely flawless. I think it's the dealership owner's car, it's always there and never for sale.  
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Aug 17, 2012 17:50
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My wife would do a murder for that ES. Her favorite car, in the right color.  Terrible Robot posted:gently caress yes, I am down. Devil's Backbone has some really great beer This is good news, we were on the fence a little because we've never heard of/had anything from Devil's Backbone. Let's go to PMs.
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Aug 17, 2012 18:00
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Well I was hoping for some advice on if I should purchase that Volvo for a first car, but looks like I got one upped. Anyway, here iss a turbo wagon I think i'm gonna take a look at. Anything that I should be aware of about this model or year of car? http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/cto/3212060958.html
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Aug 17, 2012 23:39
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ElBrak posted:Well I was hoping for some advice on if I should purchase that Volvo for a first car, but looks like I got one upped. Anyway, here iss a turbo wagon I think i'm gonna take a look at. Anything that I should be aware of about this model or year of car? http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/cto/3212060958.html I wonder which decade it was last daily driven..
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Aug 17, 2012 23:46
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Thats true, I posted a non turbo wagon in the thread towards the top of this page that seems to be in better shape, or at least driven more often.
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Aug 18, 2012 00:05
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 Mine since a week, a '83 760 GLE 2.2 Turbo sedan. Loving it
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Aug 18, 2012 11:00
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Any known issues with modern volvo wagons? With a baby on the way I need to trade my IQ in on something with 4 doors and family friendly, the dealer has a 06 Volvo v50 T5 AWD with 70,000 miles on it. I have been looking at wagons and dont know anything about them. I've looked into it little on a Volvo forum but didnt really see anything. evilnissan fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Aug 18, 2012 |
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Aug 18, 2012 22:39
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Felt like posting one of mine here. Many of you have probably already seen it but you get to see it again  .   *Edit: Ah, what the heck, I'll add the one that's giving me problems as well; 
Fimbulvetr fucked around with this message at 19:04 on Aug 19, 2012 |
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Aug 19, 2012 19:02
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  No, my right thumb isn't deformed. Oops. More to come... motor is now mounted and everything bolted up. Gotta install the intercooler, radiator, alternator belt, and random tubes. Tomorrow I'm getting the downpipe welded to the exhaust! What we have: IPD Turbo Cam (no cam gear since we didn't wanna source square teeth for the aux shaft and crank gear) White Tops (higher # than orange tops and don't require a resistor pack) Turbo computers oh LH2.4 90k 1994 squirter block All new gaskets everywhere and a new water pump Total work time so far (removal of old engine, cleaning new block, installing all necessary hardware, and mounting back into engine bay): 12 hours. Not bad. Running without water lines at first since we're on a deadline but I can get those anywhere. Just missing my coolant feed. Oil cooled turbos are fine because I only put 200 miles a month on this car since I use my motorcycle to commute everywhere now. Anyway back to work I'll post a video later 
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Aug 21, 2012 04:02
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LloydDobler posted:In personal Volvo news, I finally spotted a suitable replacement C70 at the salvage auction and the loving insurance company rejected my winning bid as not high enough and is re-listing it for another auction. Bastards. This is pretty funny, I won the auction 4 weeks in a row with the winning bid getting lower every week. The seller finally caved and took my low rear end bid. So if the thing isn't beyond cleaning up with a detail, I'm back in the convertible game! If it's beat up more than it appears then I'll just clean it up and flip it. I'll post pics once it arrives in a week or two.
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Aug 21, 2012 04:58
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Update: Car runs and drives, but the original MAF ate poo poo because it was resting on the coolant bottle hose and ended up a bit too toasty. No boost controller currently hooked up, but if I had to guess, it's at about 4psi, which is fine for right now. Had a slight coolant leak at the heater pipes and a tiny drip of oil from the rear of the block, but I'm pretty sure this is residual oil from the chassis and not the engine itself. Warner's Exhaust & Hitch in Oceanside, CA is also the loving best. They welded me on a completely new downpipe with bellow straight back to my muffler for a grand total of $200. And they did the entire thing in 20 minutes. It was by far the most efficient and professional thing I've ever seen. Next up: boost gauge, boost controller, and adjusting my boost! It's been a while... what boost are orange tops good up to on a stock '93 240 fuel pump?
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Aug 22, 2012 03:22
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Things I learned today: -LH 2.4 really needs a knock sensor signal to function properly -Bad solder joints don't conduct signals well -The PO of my car was very good at putting awful solder joints in the ECU harness Thanks to my brother's soldering skills, I now have a (mostly) working car and hopefully have expunged all of the PO disasters from it!
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Aug 22, 2012 06:31
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The fuel pump relay I needed arrived from FCP, but the car (1984 240) still doesn't start. A few questions: What is the right-hand vacuum hose here (on the throttle body) for? It was broken before I took this picture, but I cut off the cracked-open bit and reattached it.  Is this socket (attached to the wiring harness on the firewall) supposed to be plugged into anything?  I'm not sure if the larger line attached to the fuel injector bus is the fuel line or not. It's hardened and doesn't tighten against the fitting, though there wasn't any gas on it after I tried to start it. Do I need to worry about this?
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Aug 23, 2012 02:47
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atomicthumbs posted:The fuel pump relay I needed arrived from FCP, but the car (1984 240) still doesn't start. A few questions:
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Aug 28, 2012 11:37
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atomicthumbs posted:The fuel pump relay I needed arrived from FCP, but the car (1984 240) still doesn't start. A few questions: That vacuum hose should run down to the charcoal canister that's at the front of the car, inside the driver's side fender. I'm 99% sure that that socket is the connector for the heater in the oxygen sensor. If the oxygen sensor is missing, or if someone cheaped out in the past and replaced it with a 1-wire sensor, then it would make sense that there's nothing plugged into it. If you can, look at the oxygen sensor and see how many wires are attached to it; if there's a connector that's just hanging out, it needs to be plugged into that socket. That line is your fuel supply line. It has foam insulation around it. The actual line is a plastic hose that you should be able to see if you slide the insulation back a little bit; the insulation doesn't need to be flush against the fitting. Did you ever get that tube that goes between the airbox and the AMM? I mailed it last Wednesday, and the post office said it'd be there on Friday.
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Aug 28, 2012 18:18
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 Er... poo poo sorry officer. Aw... are the cuffs... Damnit.
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Aug 29, 2012 21:15
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goobernoodles posted:
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Aug 29, 2012 21:20
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Aug 29, 2012 21:30
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goobernoodles posted:
A small part of me hopes that this was in a redblock brick but I'm guessing you must've been in something designed post-Nixon.
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Aug 29, 2012 21:51
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