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Mickles posted:
I have an '11 328i and it's so much better than any other car I've owned. The interior is more subdued/less tacky than the Infiniti, less buttons/gadgets, but it works well. The fuel economy is kinda lousy, I get 22-24mpg in heavy traffic, remember you need premium as well. The only required option I had was bluetooth, there are plenty of 09's out there without it which seems crazy for a 3 year old 35k base car. In the US xdrive (AWD) cars do not seem to have any kind of price premium over RWD, since you're in Canada I imagine there are a lot of them, xdrive and the cold weather package (heated side mirrors, seats, washers) would make a lot of sense... Other than that the other options are just a bonus really. The whole car is just so cleverly engineered, the brakes, steering etc are fantastic. sanchez fucked around with this message at 14:54 on Sep 3, 2012 |
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Sep 3, 2012 14:51
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oops
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Sep 3, 2012 14:52
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kimbo305 posted:Depends on what you mean by size, and which year Civic. The 1 seats 4 total, though the 2 in the back will be in relative comfort compared to 3 in the Civic, especially if it's a coupe. 2001+ Civic or mid-90s Accord. If can fit 4 people like that comfortably, I think I'd be all over it. Do the rear seats fold down?
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Sep 3, 2012 18:08
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bolind posted:^^^^^ Could you elaborate on how one would go about doing that? 1) Computer with a real serial port (nothing else about it matters, faster is better, USB sometimes doesn't work right) 2) Software, including EasyDIS v44 (or later?), EDIABAS/INPA, Diagnostic head emulator, and VMware (free player should be fine) 3) ADS interface if you have a 20 pin under the hood, modified VAGCOM KKL if you don't. (You can make your own ADS interface on a breadboard for really cheap if you want) 4) Google There's lots of info out there about it, but if you have any questions I will try to help. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 00:52 on Sep 4, 2012 |
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Sep 3, 2012 18:23
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sanchez posted:I have an '11 328i and it's so much better than any other car I've owned. The interior is more subdued/less tacky than the Infiniti, less buttons/gadgets, but it works well. The fuel economy is kinda lousy, I get 22-24mpg in heavy traffic, remember you need premium as well. Thanks for this. I'm definitely going to look for one with xDrive - they don't appear to command too much of a premium over the RWD version and I could see that coming in handy during the winter months.
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Sep 4, 2012 04:01
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Mickles posted:
I like the handling and the styling of the BMW better than the Infiniti. I actually prefer the Infiniti's coarser engine, but either one is more than sufficient. I'd go for the BMW based on handling. I much prefer the traditional RWD to the balance of BMW's AWD layouts, but if you're dealing with a lot of snow I could understand the push for AWD (that said, if you're compromising on where you're putting your power, I'd look at Audi). I don't mean to sound like a dick about this, but unless you're doing it for green reasons, gas mileage between the BMW and Infiniti shouldn't be an issue. If the gas mileage makes or breaks the budget, don't ride it so close - buy a cheaper car.
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Sep 4, 2012 07:31
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I owned an infiniti G35 coupe for a short period and I will freely admit it was a very very very boring car. Sure it sounded decent, but the stability program was always stepping in the way even switched off. Saying all that it was fairly reliable. That was it. Boring as all gently caress.
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Sep 4, 2012 16:35
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One of my coworkers came into work today driving a pretty close to mint E30 325es and I really want it.  Time to see if she'll sell it to me and how much!
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Sep 4, 2012 18:44
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I've never driven an Eta, I can only imagine the engines being very frustrating with their 4800 rpm redline
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Sep 4, 2012 19:04
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aventari posted:I've never driven an Eta, I can only imagine the engines being very frustrating with their 4800 rpm redline Yeah but they make excellent turbo donor engines because of the lower CR 
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Sep 4, 2012 19:11
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I hate to make a post about run flats, but here is a post about run flats. The other day my TPM system was angry about my right rear tire. My step-dad has a compressor so i refilled it from 21 psi to 35. TPM reset, no issues, suspected but couldn't find a nail. Sure enough, the next morning it is back to ~20psi. My local tire shop advised me I am SOL because you can't fix run-flats. I currently have an appointment at my dealership. My question is this: I'm assuming replacing just one tire is ill advised, so I'm going to end up paying $500+ for 2 new run-flats? Hitting a nail shouldn't cost that much  If this is what I have to look forward too I will probably go to my local tire store and get 4 Conti Extreme Contacts and not worry about shelling out so much cash for a stupid nail.
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Sep 4, 2012 19:24
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Dantu posted:I hate to make a post about run flats, but here is a post about run flats. The other day my TPM system was angry about my right rear tire. My step-dad has a compressor so i refilled it from 21 psi to 35. TPM reset, no issues, suspected but couldn't find a nail. Sure enough, the next morning it is back to ~20psi. Probably going to be the case. The run flats suck anyway, I'd just replace them with something that works better and is far far quieter and smoother. If you absolutely cannot wait for a tow truck, get a flat tire fix kit to keep in the car at all times.
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Sep 4, 2012 19:31
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Dantu posted:I hate to make a post about run flats, but here is a post about run flats. The other day my TPM system was angry about my right rear tire. My step-dad has a compressor so i refilled it from 21 psi to 35. TPM reset, no issues, suspected but couldn't find a nail. Sure enough, the next morning it is back to ~20psi. They will probably try to hustle you into getting four new tires too
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Sep 4, 2012 19:34
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drat my coworker doesn't want to sell the 325es but I guess her husband has an E24 that he's trying to sell...way out of my price range though.
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Sep 4, 2012 20:08
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rscott posted:Yeah but they make excellent turbo donor engines because of the lower CR M10s make really good turbo engines as well, and those tend to sell *dirt* cheap because they are so gutless. If you don't care about having a super pretty manifold you can even just flip the existing one upside down. Still trying to buy a turbo M10 e30 that I drove on friday, but the seller has been pretty uncommunicative.
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Sep 4, 2012 21:43
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Okay, I am looking at entry level performance all-season tire. I run snows in the winter but i live in the northeast so we are known to get the odd early/late snowstorm. I will either get Continental Extreme Contact DWS like I had on my e46, or maybe Pirelli PZero Rosso Assimetrico. Anyone here have experience with the Pirellis?
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Sep 5, 2012 01:09
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 Well gently caress. I guess I pushed too hard when putting the injector rail back in the intake manifold. Realoem and the dealer have no idea what part that is. It can't be part of the injector right? It was so brittle when I took it out. Without it I imagine the o-rings will get sucked in right?
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Sep 5, 2012 01:11
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Dantu posted:I hate to make a post about run flats, but here is a post about run flats. The other day my TPM system was angry about my right rear tire. My step-dad has a compressor so i refilled it from 21 psi to 35. TPM reset, no issues, suspected but couldn't find a nail. Sure enough, the next morning it is back to ~20psi. I also picked up a nail in my right rear tire about 2 weeks after getting my 328. The dealership patched it for free.
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Sep 5, 2012 01:15
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Deceptor101 posted:
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Sep 5, 2012 01:41
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Dantu posted:I hate to make a post about run flats, but here is a post about run flats. The other day my TPM system was angry about my right rear tire. My step-dad has a compressor so i refilled it from 21 psi to 35. TPM reset, no issues, suspected but couldn't find a nail. Sure enough, the next morning it is back to ~20psi. It depends on what they are. I went to Discount Tire and the guy said they aren't allowed to fix continentals. I bought a whole new set of Bridgestones with a warranty for 870 bucks. Which is a drat sight cheaper than what BMW would have charged. They charged me 250 bucks to replace a tire last year. I kept the newer tire that was replaced because it still had decent tread on it. I don't really need a spare, but whatever, it cost a lot of money, I'm keeping it.
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Sep 5, 2012 02:07
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Lowclock posted:It's called a pintle cap, and they're very cheap and replaceable once you find them. Somewhere like a fuel injection / carb shop should have plenty. I'd be more worried about losing the plastic pieces than the o ring. At least with a name I can look for them. Auto parts stores have no idea what I'm talking about. I see Mr. Injector sells a kit on ebay with new upper and lower o-rings and filters and caps, but that's $30 and next week. I'd really love to drive the car sooner than that. Googling carb shops doesn't lead to any places open or that nearby, and most look like they just do carbs. I already took the rail out of the intake manifold, so the pieces won't fall in, but If I put it back in without the caps, internet seems to think that I can run it a bit, just it may eventually degrade the tops of the injectors faster. I want to get the car running so I can post a video and see if I can return all the stuff I bought to do the VANOS job I may not need to do... Deceptor101 fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Sep 5, 2012 |
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Sep 5, 2012 02:19
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So they told me they could fix it if the damage was in between the water channels. Of course, it isn't, right near the sidewall, random metal bit. They also told me they can't put non-run flats on BMW factory wheels because of how the lip meets the tire seal. He said some places will do it, but there is a chance the tire can get knocked off the wheel if you hit a curb, more likely on larger wheels but can happen on 17s. So currently I'm looking at $503 with tax included for 2 new ContiProContacts, have to replace all 4 if i want something new.
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Sep 5, 2012 14:19
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Dantu posted:They also told me they can't put non-run flats on BMW factory wheels because of how the lip meets the tire seal. This is complete bullshit, do not listen to them.
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Sep 5, 2012 14:33
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omgitstheinternet posted:This is complete bullshit, do not listen to them. This set off my bullshit meter. E: However, I'm tempted just to replace them and be done with it. Grr. Run flats! 
Bulky Bartokomous fucked around with this message at 14:52 on Sep 5, 2012 |
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Sep 5, 2012 14:39
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Dantu posted:They also told me they can't put non-run flats on BMW factory wheels because of how the lip meets the tire seal. He said some places will do it, but there is a chance the tire can get knocked off the wheel if you hit a curb, more likely on larger wheels but can happen on 17s. This is all complete and utter bullshit. Do not ever go to this tire shop ever again and tell all your friends to never ever go there ever again. One: That poo poo about lip/tire seal is the biggest crock of upselling poo poo I've ever heard. I'd demand to speak to a manager or a DM if someone ever tried that on me. Two: They can put any other tire you want on there as long as it's the proper rim size, unless your car is AWD, in which case they need to match the outer diameter (most people just match the sizes for simplicity's sake). I hate lying rear end lube jockeys who give the rest of the mechanics a bad name.
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Sep 5, 2012 15:26
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Still working on my 5 series wagon search, and finding a lot of cars I like. But I need the gentle words of experience. What's going to be more fun to drive - a 6 cylinder car with a manual or an 8 cylinder car with an auto? Normally I would only go with the manual, but the siren song of power calls to me...
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Sep 5, 2012 15:34
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Beach Bum posted:This is all complete and utter bullshit. Do not ever go to this tire shop ever again and tell all your friends to never ever go there ever again. The only part that doesn't make sense is that I would have spent more on 4 non-runflats. I think this is a case of being uninformed rather than upselling.
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Sep 5, 2012 15:44
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My car (2002 325Ci w/ 84000 miles) recently started leaking oil. After some investigation it appeared to be coming from the oil filter housing gasket. I ordered a new gasket and replaced it this last weekend. One issue I had is the gasket I replaced seemed pretty much new, wasn't brittle or anything. My car is still leaking oil from the same area. It seems other stories on the internet discuss the possibility of the VANOS oil line leaking, the housing wasn't tightened down to the correct torque, or perhaps the oil filter housing itself is damaged and leaking. I'm going to order a new VANOS oil line, a new gasket, and some RTV sealant and replace all the parts that might be leaking. As well I'm join to be fairly liberal applying RTV sealant around the gasket just to be sure. Or should I order a whole new housing and just replace everything? I'm pretty upset I have to spend another 4 hours or so tearing my car apart replacing this gasket again.
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Sep 5, 2012 17:53
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Mr. Wiggles posted:Still working on my 5 series wagon search, and finding a lot of cars I like. But I need the gentle words of experience. What's going to be more fun to drive - a 6 cylinder car with a manual or an 8 cylinder car with an auto? Normally I would only go with the manual, but the siren song of power calls to me... I take it your still scared of the auto box exploding? A 6/manual combo will provide tons of fun for years to come. But again, the 8/auto is an absolute thrill to drive. Have you driven both to get a feel? That will be your biggest determining factor when it comes to your choice. 6's you have to worry about VANOS and other bullshit things, but the 8 has its own set of issues as well. Edit: I should also add that if its the E39 your looking at, the ZF 5HP24 is not a terrible transmission. There are a few known weaknesses, but if they are cared after they are pretty durable. The only real issue that I know of is the aluminum drum that will explode, but again if looked after there is no problem. For what its worth, the transmission is still in production, so it can't be complete poo poo? Edit again: I was on the internet and a I found this. http://desmoines.craigslist.org/cto/3249426314.html I did already converse with a couple forum members about this... could prove to be a pretty awesome car. I am already used to cars with crazy rear end electrics, so this would be a walk in the park. I am just wondering if its the valve body or the reverse drum clip. BrokenKnucklez fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Sep 5, 2012 |
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Sep 5, 2012 18:11
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BrokenKnucklez posted:I take it your still scared of the auto box exploding? A 6/manual combo will provide tons of fun for years to come. But again, the 8/auto is an absolute thrill to drive. Have you driven both to get a feel? That will be your biggest determining factor when it comes to your choice. 6's you have to worry about VANOS and other bullshit things, but the 8 has its own set of issues as well. To add to this, the two cars have a completely different steering system. The 6-cyl E39s were rack and pinion but the 8-cyl E39s had to go recirc ball due to constraint issues. It definitely has a different steering feel to it.
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Sep 5, 2012 18:23
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Edit again: I was on the internet and a I found this. The nice thing about the E32...there is zero demand for them, as their reputation precedes them most of the time. As a result, you can find running and driving cars in decent shape all day long for <$1500, dismantlers / junkyards can't give the parts away so you can get used parts for pennies, etc. If you can put up with the headaches (bonus if you have room for a complete parts car) it's a good buy for someone who's handy. That car probably has the 5HP30 in it, which is notorious for having issues with the valve body. The check balls inside are made of a material that wears down over time. Once the ball gets small enough, it can make it down the passages it's supposed to block off - and when this happens, the first thing to go is reverse. I bet it needs a valve body rebuild. There are kits out there if you feel like DIY, otherwise there are places you can send it out to to have it rebuilt.
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Sep 6, 2012 00:32
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Black88GTA posted:That car probably has the 5HP30 in it, which is notorious for having issues with the valve body. The check balls inside are made of a material that wears down over time. Once the ball gets small enough, it can make it down the passages it's supposed to block off - and when this happens, the first thing to go is reverse. I bet it needs a valve body rebuild. There are kits out there if you feel like DIY, otherwise there are places you can send it out to to have it rebuilt. http://www.meeknet.co.uk/e32/BMW_E32_Common_Problems.htm I found that, which seems to be a pretty common issue sheet. I have never messed with the dark arts of automatic transmissions, but it looks pretty strait forward for the most part. The kit is even cheap to do it. I figure rebuild that part, do some rotors, and deal with the annoying bullshit. I am still trying to decide between it or that STS I have been yammering on about in my project thread. I may need to rename it to Automotive ADD or something. Edit: http://desmoines.craigslist.org/cto/3213075303.html Who wants to buy one off me cheap? God drat, 2 BMWs with a poo poo load of extra poo poo. Make one good car, junk the rest. BrokenKnucklez fucked around with this message at 05:59 on Sep 6, 2012 |
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Sep 6, 2012 05:49
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Edit: http://desmoines.craigslist.org/cto/3213075303.html Buy that right now. That's a ridiculously good deal.
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Sep 6, 2012 06:22
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Replaced the old electric fan I had put in my e34 a while ago. Used a fan out of a Volvo 850 that has a nice 2 speed relay. This thing moves air like nobodies business. Real tight fit.   
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Sep 8, 2012 02:29
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So yeah, that AKG E34 RTAB tool is pretty worthless. All it's capable of is tearing out the sleeve in the middle of the bushing. I still had to use a sawzall to cut the shell and then an air hammer to actually get the things out. Now the only rubber left on the car is swaybar and subframe bushings.
Lowclock fucked around with this message at 08:41 on Sep 8, 2012 |
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Sep 8, 2012 08:38
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I'm trying to remove the ICV from my e46 328Ci to clean it out, but I've hit a stumbling block. The lower intake boot that connects to the throttle body has a pipe that also goes into the ICV, and for some unfathomable reason, the clamp that connects that intake into the ICV has a clamp that is completely inaccessible. Can anyone think of a way to get this off without destroying the clamp or the intake body itself? 
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Sep 8, 2012 21:26
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The Third Man posted:Can anyone think of a way to get this off without destroying the clamp or the intake body itself? I went for a drive today in the 540i after putting in those AKG RTAB bushings yesterday and the difference is awesome. Even when just tightening the lugnuts, I noticed that the tire doesn't move back and forth at all now on the final torquing. The NVH seems better with the poly, but that could just be because the old ones were, well, old. I decided to bleed my brakes again too after just a year, and the fluid was gross. I think it's time for new hoses. They look like they're all original.
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Sep 8, 2012 21:52
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The Third Man posted:Can anyone think of a way to get this off without destroying the clamp or the intake body itself? The thing that's easy to forget about those hose clamps, is they aren't just unfastened by a flathead. Most of the time they're a 6mm or 7mm hex as well. A 1/4" socket with maybe a u-joint should be able to get it from below. When I did this job on mine I'm pretty sure that's what I used.
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Sep 8, 2012 22:25
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Deceptor101 posted:The thing that's easy to forget about those hose clamps, is they aren't just unfastened by a flathead. Most of the time they're a 6mm or 7mm hex as well. A 1/4" socket with maybe a u-joint should be able to get it from below. When I did this job on mine I'm pretty sure that's what I used. Yeah, that doesn't look too bad...just feel underneath with the right size socket, and hopefully you have a nice small 1/4" drive ratchet. Failing that, can you get a pair of wirecutters on there and just mangle the clamp?
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Sep 8, 2012 22:54
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I tried to get an open end wrench down there but the problem is that bracket that holds the ICV there also holds the throttle cable in place right next to where that clamp is sitting.
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Sep 8, 2012 23:42
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