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Despite my R1150R Rockster looking substantially better sans bags, i often have the narrow "city bags" on it because they're so drat convenient. Good seeing you on Sunday Snowden. Moral_Hazard fucked around with this message at 15:14 on Sep 17, 2012 |
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Sep 17, 2012 15:09
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I haven't taken my cases off since they went on, they're handy as hell.
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Sep 17, 2012 15:19
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Having bags on my motorcycle has changed my life. Edit: vvv yeah exactly. I also now always have my rain gear with me, so, with a few exceptions, it's a total vehicle replacement (until it starts snowing). Which is good because no fucks were given when I realized my car has a flat tire. epswing fucked around with this message at 16:46 on Sep 17, 2012 |
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Sep 17, 2012 15:24
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epalm posted:Having bags on my motorcycle has made me not think twice about taking it everywhere. This. Run wherever, do whatever... something comes up where you need to run an unexpected errand and get something it's not an issue. I'm getting quick release hard bags, but they're only going to be off for wash and wax ease and the occasional big group ride or bike night where looks > function. Every other case they'll be on regardless of if I plan to use them or not.
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Sep 17, 2012 16:08
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Snowdens Secret posted:A cheap multimeter is 20 bucks at the Home Depot and will come in handy over and over Speaking for me on a Sport Tourer (C14), I think they look funny naked. In reality, they weigh almost nothing and come in handy all the time. Out for a Sunday ride and need to pick up some poo poo at the store on the way home? No problem. You don't even need to plan ahead. Also, if the bags are limiting the lean angle, you're either one hell of a rider, have grotesque bags, or you're in serious trouble.
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Sep 17, 2012 16:55
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Also, if you mean cruiser baggers, I think most of their luggage is not really designed to come off without a fight.
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Sep 17, 2012 16:58
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eddiewalker posted:I have an '04 Ninja250 I'm trying to sell in the midwest. Awesome shape. Undropped, unmolested. I would wait until the spring unless you really need the cash/need the space. Also, if you've only had a couple potential buyers look and they give you the KBB line, all you need to do is tell them that it won't go for that cheap, the bikes in this area cost more, whatever.
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Sep 17, 2012 18:17
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slidebite posted:Also, if the bags are limiting the lean angle, you're either one hell of a rider, have grotesque bags, or you're in serious trouble. I find that my cases limit my lean angle just enough to ensure continued operation of my legs. 
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Sep 17, 2012 19:17
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One of the main reasons I want to change from my Ninja 250 is the lack of awesome bags. I realize there are some options out there, but I'm talking Pelican cases bolted to the side of my motorcycle here. Traveling with zero storage space is drat near impossible except for weekend joyrides, and even then I wish I had some without having to carry a backpack.
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Sep 17, 2012 19:25
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americanzero4128 posted:I would wait until the spring unless you really need the cash/need the space. Also, if you've only had a couple potential buyers look and they give you the KBB line, all you need to do is tell them that it won't go for that cheap, the bikes in this area cost more, whatever. Welcome to selling things on the internet. I'm asking a high price for an 80's bike (2k) and I've had people link me this as a similar sale then offer me $750 for it: http://rochester.craigslist.org/mcy/3248002215.html quote:I have a 1983 honda shadow vt750 this bike was last rode in 1984 with only 2670 miles has original tires,I don't have a title I had it running in july now won't start. I'm looking for reasonable offers thanks. Sorry no. A bike that hasn't run for 28 years, doesn't have a title, and advertises 29 year old tires as a good thing isn't comparable to my perfect working condition and minimal cosmetic defect bike with <15k miles because it happens to be the same model and year.  I doubted I'd have a snowballs chance in hell at unloading it before Spring but there was the glimmer of hope for a reasonable offer. Ebay auction is closing in 24 hours and I've had nothing but 'will give piggy bank contents and what the hell I'll throw in the piggy bank too' sort of offers all day if I close early. I would be able to crash the bike and get more from insurance than what these people are offering. Halo_4am fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Sep 17, 2012 |
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Sep 17, 2012 19:26
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Halo_4am posted:
B-b-but those are VINTAGE tires, dude.
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Sep 17, 2012 21:44
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I bought my Ninja with a cracked coolant reservoir that looks like it was glued-over. It didn't leak at all, for a few weeks, until today when I must've jolted it too hard over some railroad tracks. It was rapidly leaking when I parked it. Coming back out 1.5 hours later, the jug was empty. The radiator was full though. I rode it back home, and the reservoir was spurting out a bit more fluid. I set up an appointment for the coolant reservoir jug to be replaced at a shop (too busy to do it myself) this Thursday, and I have the part ready, but I'm wondering if it's totally fine to be riding the bike as long as the radiator is topped off?
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Sep 17, 2012 22:52
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It's been too long in here without an argument, so here goes. Aprilia say you have to use 15w50 oil (and heavier for hot climates), but that poo poo's expensive and hard to find and I can pick up 10w40 everywhere. Why shouldn't I?
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Sep 17, 2012 22:59
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the walkin dude posted:I bought my Ninja with a cracked coolant reservoir that looks like it was glued-over. It didn't leak at all, for a few weeks, until today when I must've jolted it too hard over some railroad tracks. It was rapidly leaking when I parked it. Coming back out 1.5 hours later, the jug was empty. The radiator was full though. I rode it back home, and the reservoir was spurting out a bit more fluid. I set up an appointment for the coolant reservoir jug to be replaced at a shop (too busy to do it myself) this Thursday, and I have the part ready, but I'm wondering if it's totally fine to be riding the bike as long as the radiator is topped off? Yes, absolutely fine. Not for any great distance because obviously expansion and boiling (well evaporation strictly) are going to make it less full pretty rapidly, but as long as the radiator's full you're fine.
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Sep 17, 2012 23:01
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OIL THREAD!!! To be honest I think 20w50 is a closer match. The first number is the "winter" weight, cold viscosity rating - the second number is the rating hot (@ 200C I think?)... so assuming you're going to run it warmed up most of the time, 20w50 is what you want. You can get that anywhere you can find 10w40.
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Sep 17, 2012 23:03
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I'd use 20w50, it's the 50 that matters when the engine is running hot. The 15 is for when it's cold. And I assume you're not gonna start it when it's that cold out, so it won't be that big a deal.
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Sep 17, 2012 23:04
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clutchpuck posted:OIL THREAD!!! Rotella T. Thank me later.
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Sep 17, 2012 23:11
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Tamir Lenk posted:Rotella T. This. Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I'd use 20w50, it's the 50 that matters when the engine is running hot. The 15 is for when it's cold. And I assume you're not gonna start it when it's that cold out, so it won't be that big a deal. I thought the 2nd number was for the climate, "20 viscosity, winter grade 50" who knows where I learned that.
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Sep 17, 2012 23:22
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Tamir Lenk posted:Rotella T. You can't buy rotella t in the uk. 15w50 was specced for a reason. Just order a spare 1l from opie oils when you are doing the next oil change. Alternatively, mix 20w actevo from your haus of sad accountants i mean rugged adventure bieken gmbh with 10w homebase own brand semi synth and post a troll thread about it on something called "adv".
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Sep 17, 2012 23:39
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Also, if you mean cruiser baggers, I think most of their luggage is not really designed to come off without a fight. Yeah, I wasn't thinking practical bags on a practical bike, but more like this:  Backov posted:Also - why? When you stop it's a great place to put your gear. When you're headed home it's great place to put your beer and groceries. Boxes are awesome. The dudes I see riding said bikes generally aren't wearing any gear at all and I doubt they're doing anything as productive as picking up groceries or carrying beer outside the belly tank. I understand it's a style thing and maybe having a wide bike makes the rider think they look thinner, I dunno.
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Sep 18, 2012 00:28
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Snowdens Secret posted:maybe having a wide bike makes the rider think they look thinner, I dunno. I know there's no such thing as a stupid question but this is prime fodder for the stupid overheard thread.
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Sep 18, 2012 01:26
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I'm participating in my university's FSAE program this year, and I figure I would go ahead and use whatever resource I have available for my job. We're using an engine from a CBR600 (05, I think, but that shouldn't have much bearing on it), and I'm in charge of the driver's clutch system and, in small part, the shifting mechanism. The main guy on shifting is stuck on paddle shifters (I think we're going to do a servo attached to the shift linkage with switches at the steering wheel), and I'm trying to decide on either a standard pedal operating the cable, or something more exotic. The pedal would be the first choice, but the footwell is already pretty cramped with the throttle and brake, and I'm wondering if any kind of electronic or pneumatic actuating system would even be feasible before I start researching it. Thoughts, comments, or criticism for asking other people are all welcome. edit: If not the pedal, it would probably be controlled by a button on the steering wheel. AncientTV fucked around with this message at 01:54 on Sep 18, 2012 |
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Sep 18, 2012 01:52
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Halo_4am posted:Welcome to selling things on the internet. I'm asking a high price for an 80's bike (2k) and I've had people link me this as a similar sale then offer me $750 for it: I tried selling a 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 with all the bells and whistles once. Had less than 75,000 miles on it, brand new BF Goodrich all-terrains, etc. I was desperate so I put it up at $9,000 - a real steal when the KBB said 17 and others had similar trucks listed at 15 and above. I had people sending me (serious) offers on it to the effect of $150 (one-hundred fifty dollars total), one guy wanted to trade his broken Ford POS with a seized up engine (from oil starvation) and some 160,000 miles AND I pay him another 2,500, some other offered to "scrap" it for me and proceeded to try to convince me it was a junker truck and he was a pro in the field and was really just trying to do me a favor.
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Sep 18, 2012 03:13
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AncientTV posted:I'm participating in my university's FSAE program this year, and I figure I would go ahead and use whatever resource I have available for my job. A beefy solenoid or servo should be able to handle the clutch. Pressing the shift button should disengage the clutch, shift, and reengage the clutch. Someone on your team should be able to handle the programming for that (heck, Southern Poly's FSAE team was doing that back in 2006). Your team could also work some trickery wherein the clutch disengages as revs or speed fall below a certain threshold, and the clutch partially engages when the accelerator is pressed from 0. Maybe base it off of a combination of speed and pedal position. Basically, let the computer handle the clutch. It's faster than a human, and in doing so you're reducing your driver's mental load.
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Sep 18, 2012 03:40
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"Hey electrical/programming team..."  That actually makes a lot of sense though, I'll see if I can't get ridiculed at our next meeting. Thanks for the idea!
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Sep 18, 2012 03:58
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Tell them a stranger on the Internet thinks he could hack the necessary code together in an evening while half drunk, and see how they respond.
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Sep 18, 2012 04:04
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You don't really need to clutch on the way up, look into racing quick shifters, they interrupt the ignition on an upshift so you don't even have to get off the throttle.
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Sep 18, 2012 07:02
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Right, they were saying that the clutch is mostly for doddling-around and idling, so the most necessary part of that would be having the clutch engage at certain speeds/throttle positions.
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Sep 18, 2012 12:24
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I'd say you want to clutch on the way down, but that's very easy to sort, just get whatever actuator you end up using to quickly clutch in, change down one then let the clutch out smoothly over the course of a half a second maybe? The whole thing could be easily handled with a couple of solenoids for changing and a nice beefy stepper/servo for the clutch. You could fit the logic for the whole lot on an ATTiny and still have room for more functions.
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Sep 18, 2012 13:05
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ReelBigLizard posted:I'd say you want to clutch on the way down, but that's very easy to sort, just get whatever actuator you end up using to quickly clutch in, change down one, match revs then let the clutch out smoothly over the course of a tenth of a second maybe? The whole thing could be easily handled with a couple of solenoids for changing and a nice beefy stepper/servo for the clutch. You could fit the logic for the whole lot on an ATTiny and still have room for more functions. If you wanna get real fancy, that is.
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Sep 18, 2012 13:25
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This is very quickly getting out of my mechanical-only experience. How likely is it that I'd be able to cobble something like this together in a few months, starting from scratch knowledge-wise?
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Sep 18, 2012 15:10
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You seem smart, so likely. Look into getting something like an Arduino microcontroller to do the thinking for that system. You can use some kind of inductive sensor to determine when a particular plug is sparking, and use that to determine RPM. Because you're using a pushbutton shifting system, you automatically know what gear you're in. There are a couple different kinds of wheel speed sensors out there, use one of those to determine your speed. Once you have those in place, it's simple driving servos to clutch and shift for you. Arduino programming and accessories are really well supported on the Internet. Arduino: http://www.makershed.com/New_Arduino_Uno_Revision_3_p/mksp11.htm Motor shield: http://www.makershed.com/product_p/mkad7.htm Good resources: MakerShed, AdaFruit, SparkFun. Edit: use the existing tachometer signal like so: http://hackaday.com/2012/07/02/junkyard-scavenging-nets-a-tachometer-to-play-with/ Edit: Hall effect sensor: https://www.adafruit.com/products/158 Use with a magnet mounted on the axle to get wheel speed. Edit: Linear encoder: http://store.makerbot.com/magnetic-linear-encoder-v1-2-kit.html Use to get pedal position. Edit: Servo motors: http://www.kollmorgen.com/en-us/products/motors/servo/vlm/ You need something pretty beefy to control your clutch and shifter. Something a little less beefy should be fine for throttle cable: http://www.amazon.com/Futaba-S3003-Servo-Standard/dp/B0015H2V72/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1347980247&sr=8-4&keywords=servo+motor Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 15:58 on Sep 18, 2012 |
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Sep 18, 2012 15:37
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Could he not do what every kit car maker does and just use a rod with a push-pull linkage to paddles? Or is this a rear-engined thing?
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Sep 18, 2012 20:03
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Fsae is rear engined. Like big karts, my friend did the suspension on his teams car last year. They used a big single tho. They also used a kart shifter iirc, i don't know why you wouldn't just do that. It covers your clutch and shifting while letting you upshift clutchless. At any rate I'd lean more toward using whatever they used last year (or ask people in the competition) and not a forum of bike enthusiasts, but thats just the impression I got from my buddy's work on his car. No offense meant to the members here, but these are usually low budget/ high workload and setting up servos and programs and buttons is a lot of poo poo to go wrong. Look up sequential shifters and get to convincing your team mate...Unless you're on one of those huge budget teams... nsaP fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Sep 18, 2012 |
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Sep 18, 2012 21:47
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Safety Dance posted:You seem smart, so likely. You don't need to get that fancy, there are dedicated quickshift units where you give it the effective final ratio, the ratios of the box, and it just works it out from there. You could do something like that in Arduino really easily assuming the rev counter and speedo are easily readable. Having said that I wouldn't be happy letting something hacked together like that having throttle authority and as we're talking about a racing application it's probably much easier to just crash-box it, with an interlock to stop it down-shifting if the speed is over a certain limit for the ratio. Alternatively you could get a little fancy and make an effective electronic slipper-clutch - if your front and rear wheel speeds get too out of whack (just steal bits from ABS systems for the sensors assuming the wheels are big enough to fit them) just slip the clutch until they do. Might have a problem with braking input causing the same thing though. Personally I'd just give the driver a clutch and tell him to man the gently caress up though. Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I'd use 20w50, it's the 50 that matters when the engine is running hot. The 15 is for when it's cold. And I assume you're not gonna start it when it's that cold out, so it won't be that big a deal. Yeah, my thinking was that if I was going to go off-sheet I'd be better with thicker than thinner, but that's based on my experience with air-cooled VW engines which are a rather different kettle of fish than a modern bike engine (if nothing else my Shiver is making three times the HP with half the CCs of my old TL).
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Sep 18, 2012 22:04
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It's already much easier to shift than a car. You can certainly rig up some mechanical paddle to shift right? Also, look into a quick shifter for the bike as it cuts the fuel / spark and allows fast clutchless upshifts. If you're allowed to use that it might simplify some of your setup.
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Sep 18, 2012 22:08
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Safety Dance posted:edit: Thanks for the write-up, I'll start looking into this. I mentioned it to one of the senior team members today and he said it would be too hard to get the clutch timing right. We'll see. nsaP posted:They also used a kart shifter iirc, i don't know why you wouldn't just do that. It covers your clutch and shifting while letting you upshift clutchless. We're a second year team and our budget is tiny, so that's definitely a factor. The senior members also frown upon using pre-made systems, but I'll look into kart shifters. I honestly don't know why they want to get away from what they have. It's a simple vertical rod by the drivers hip that acts like a sequential shifter, and the clutch handle is on the front of it, basically this but simpler:  The only problem is is that the clutch pull is insanely hard for some reason. Everyone thinks it's because of its orientation, but I think I'm the only one there with bike experience. It's seriously 10x harder than it should be. The cable is new though, so I don't know what the gently caress. JP Money posted:It's already much easier to shift than a car. You can certainly rig up some mechanical paddle to shift right? Also, look into a quick shifter for the bike as it cuts the fuel / spark and allows fast clutchless upshifts. If you're allowed to use that it might simplify some of your setup. I think what will end up happening is a homebrew quickshift (senior members don't like using pre-made goodies) attached to whatever mechanical version we end up going with. Right now I'm torn between building up the will to do something mega-cool/complicated or sticking with the drat wire. Thanks for the input everyone, I'll keep away from taking over this thread.
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Sep 18, 2012 22:36
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AncientTV posted:The only problem is is that the clutch pull is insanely hard for some reason. Everyone thinks it's because of its orientation, but I think I'm the only one there with bike experience. It's seriously 10x harder than it should be. The cable is new though, so I don't know what the gently caress. If it's a pure cable-operated clutch that'd be why it's so heavy. You could just route it to a CBR clutch lever and master cylinder (assuming you don't have the space to rig up some kind of mechanism on the shifter itself).
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Sep 18, 2012 22:42
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That's the kind of shifter I mean. Done and easy, sounds like all that needs sorted is the clutch pull.
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Sep 18, 2012 22:46
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Did you lube the cable? FWIW it's going to be a heavy pull if you're direct-cable-connected to something designed to be pulled hydraulically.
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Sep 18, 2012 22:50
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