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jamal posted:Depends on the engine you get. If it's twin-scroll and dual avcs your downpipe won't work and you will have to replace most of the wiring harness. How are people flashing these things then? Do they have an odb2 port that never gives a ready signal or something? Edit: Seems that the older JDM ecu's don't work, but the v8 ones will Edit2: No thats wrong. I think what people mean by this is they use the USDM ecu and tune it so it runs... http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2385141&highlight=ej207 And of course in searching for this I think I have found all my answers. Everything works except for the downpipe, and the odb2 port. But you can run the old ecu to get smogged, you just can't use avcs. Since my emissions is an odb2 scan and visual for a cat, this will work fine. Just need to find a reputable vendor and get one on its way. blindjoe fucked around with this message at 22:16 on Sep 19, 2012 |
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Sep 19, 2012 21:42
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Well there is still a port and you can still flash them using opensource stuff. I know some guys that have jdm ecus that have been tuned. They just don't use the odb protocol or something like that so when a smog check comes in it doesn't work right.
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Sep 19, 2012 21:49
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Amandyke posted:A very correct statement if what you say here is true of your driving style. If you weren't interested in performance, why would you spend so much money on a rally bred awd turbo charged sports car? Seriously. Who owns a STi and only boosts when they are going uphill? Hell I hit 6k rpm on highway onramps just for grins.
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Sep 19, 2012 21:53
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poo poo, I hit 6k all the time with my slow rear end stock NA Forester just because.
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Sep 19, 2012 22:02
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Billy Tully posted:poo poo, I hit 6k all the time with my slow rear end stock NA Forester just because. You gotta thrash 'em or they won't respect you.
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Sep 19, 2012 22:49
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Billy Tully posted:poo poo, I hit 6k all the time with my slow rear end stock NA Forester just because. I shift at 4k and ride the torque like a diesel. 
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Sep 19, 2012 22:51
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Amandyke posted:A very correct statement if what you say here is true of your driving style. If you weren't interested in performance, why would you spend so much money on a rally bred awd turbo charged sports car? I have done a couple autocrosses and intend to do more. Still no launches even during autocross or really hard driving otherwise though, and even at autocross there was never more than a single 1-2 shift. And I will never buy a Camry. My previous statements were made in a moment of weakness. To make it up I will turn on FFS and hold the gas down all the way home from work 
THE BLACK NINJA fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Sep 20, 2012 |
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Sep 19, 2012 22:58
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CEL came on throwing the following codes: P0303: Cylinder 3 Three Misfire Detected P0000: meaningless as far as I can tell C0105: Rear ABS wheel speed sensor RH malfunction (ABS wheel speed sensor abnormal signal) C0106: Rear ABS wheel speed sensor LH malfunction (ABS wheel speed sensor abnormal signal) ABS light is off. I'm most concerned about the misfire. What can I do to try and remedy this on my own before bringing it to a shop? It sounds like there could be multiple culprits: spark plugs, spark plug wires, fuel injectors, coil packs, timing belt, some issue w/ air intake, serious engine problem, and probably others. Car is an '05 LGT w/ ~96k miles. Plugs were replaced w/ OEM plugs around 24k miles ago. 31k miles since the air filter was replaced. Timing belt hasn't been done yet (due @ 105k). Any ideas with the ABS codes?
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Sep 20, 2012 00:29
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Sockington posted:I shift at 4k and ride the torque like a diesel. Yea that's what I do most of the time but I like the manly growl of the engine every once in a while.
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Sep 20, 2012 01:55
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If you install a WRX hood intake on a N/A car, you get a larger growl increase from 3000-3500.
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Sep 20, 2012 02:04
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okay: just bought a forester xt. The previous owner didn't like the 4" fart can that came with the car when she bought it, so she put on a 1" nissan muffler. go figure. I don't like either of them, so the question is: what are some good alternatives to throwing a stock exhaust back on the car? Any systems out there that give you the nice growl without the ostentatious look?
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Sep 20, 2012 07:59
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Guys guys guys Tokico is having a sale of up to 70% off their struts. I got some HTS's for my legacy daily driver for a little over 300 instead of 1k+. http://www.tokicoperformanceshocks.com/p-16-shock-kit-hts-series-tohts005.aspx I was just going to throw GR2's at it, but if I can get some nice adjustables for the same price gently caress yeah. Now if They would mark down my right rear for the RS so I could replace the loving clunking one.
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Sep 20, 2012 14:55
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tayLOVE posted:okay: just bought a forester xt. Anything for the wrx/sti fits if you get longer hangers so there are A LOT of options. The Cobb catback is really nice. The Invidia q300 would probably be my 2nd choice. The cobb has a flange that fits the stock downpipe while the invidia is full 3" and also I have a wholesale account with that site so I can match or beat their pricing.
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Sep 20, 2012 19:03
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tayLOVE posted:okay: just bought a forester xt. I rather like my Borla Hush as well.
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Sep 20, 2012 19:18
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I was planning on doing a 3" to 2.5" catted downpipe and putting a Maddad Whisper on the back end to make for a quiet but fairly meaty exhaust. Just need to find a relatively affordable downpipe like that; the Rocket Rally one was quoted to me at $700. 
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Sep 20, 2012 20:05
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Invidia is probably your best bet. Just under 500, but 3" flat flange outlet. The Cobb is another $100 but has a donut flange. Doesn't the Maddad have a 3" flange?
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Sep 20, 2012 20:13
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You can get it in 3" or 2.5", one of the nice things about Maddad's cornucopia of stuff. The Rocket one is nice but I've seen a few with broken welds over time so I might end up with an Invidia or something. 3" outlet probably is quieter than I'm giving it credit for.
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Sep 20, 2012 20:15
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Sockington posted:I shift at 4k and ride the torque like a diesel. Can you explain what this means? Also with winter on the horizon and this being my first winter with AWD and manual trans, how should I drive? What do I do if I lose traction/spin/etc? Do I downshift? Leave it in gear?
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Sep 20, 2012 21:40
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Totally TWISTED posted:Can you explain what this means? When you're actually on the street, just drive it like any other car. Smooth inputs at all times, leave plenty of extra following room and be aware that other drivers are, as before, your primary threat. Your biggest advantages now come in terms of being able to accelerate quickly and being able to engine brake slightly more effectively, and you want to try and opt for situations in traffic where you can do these things if need be (imagine you are a motorcyclist). Your braking and turning is still limited by the same factors as every other car (albeit with the ability to do RWD-style power oversteer). quote:What do I do if I lose traction/spin/etc? Do I downshift? If it's really icy where you're starting from, try to start in second gear for the same reason. quote:Leave it in gear? Quickly lifting your foot off the gas upsets the car's balance as well, and this is part of the "smooth inputs" bit that I was mentioning up above. I wouldn't be surprised if a sudden jerky lift were the precursor to a lot of crashes in winter. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 22:00 on Sep 20, 2012 |
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Sep 20, 2012 21:45
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Awesome, thanks for all the  and wisdom.
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Sep 20, 2012 22:18
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Seat Safety Switch posted:If it's really icy where you're starting from, try to start in second gear for the same reason. Why not go for a record reported speed while still at a standstill?
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Sep 20, 2012 22:41
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Amandyke posted:Why not go for a record reported speed while still at a standstill? With an open-diff FWD car on bald all-seasons you just basically sit there and howl a hole into the ice while your red-hot exhaust header warms the snow, which immediately becomes ice. Then someone else comes by and tries to stop at the light... Last year I sat at a four way stop for an hour as everyone in every direction made a sad howl, spun one wheel and ruined what little grip remained. A guy in front of me decided to do a u-turn over a snow-covered Jersey barrier rather than wait and left part of his Escalade driveshaft and a poo poo ton of tranny oil behind. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 22:51 on Sep 20, 2012 |
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Sep 20, 2012 22:45
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So I got the new engine in today that kastein and I pulled from his local junkyard. $180 for the engine and $50 for the warranty that I wont need. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kAuoG-yovyE
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Sep 21, 2012 04:04
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I am doing a track day in October at Road America in Elkhart Lake, WI. I have a stock 2012 WRX STI and I am would like a recommendation on some upgraded brake pads and brake fluid. I was thinking performance friction 6's and some ATE super blue fluid. Any thoughts?
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Sep 21, 2012 13:29
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Took a picture of my new Legacy GT. First things first, getting rid of those lovely plate brackets. Then, Rota G-Force in 17x8, and taking the advice on the Sumitomos in 235/45 or 245/40 (which would be closer to stock?) Down the road, maybe a Cobb AP and downpipe, but for right now it's stock. The seat heaters and auto climate work great, shifter and clutch are crisp and so far I've been getting 26mpg combined. Pretty good. I figure the low price is because the PO had a dog and a lot of the interior trim in the back seat is covered in claw marks. But I don't give a drat, this car is awesome!
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Sep 21, 2012 15:55
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Where do people shop for wheels? Tirerack is limited and any online searching turns up nothing but garbage. I am considering new wheels for snow tires. Tire rack says I can go to some 17 inch wheels. Is the snow performance of the smaller wheel and larger sidewall (millimeters!) over just buying snows for my current BBS wheels worth if? Do any 16" wheels clear the brembos? Do cheap wheels ever just break? Like a cheap motegi wheel.
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Sep 21, 2012 16:47
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Where do people shop for wheels? Tirerack is limited and any online searching turns up nothing but garbage. jamal sells wheels...
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Sep 21, 2012 17:21
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jamal posted:Anything for the wrx/sti fits if you get longer hangers so there are A LOT of options. The Cobb catback is really nice. The Invidia q300 would probably be my 2nd choice. The cobb has a flange that fits the stock downpipe while the invidia is full 3" and also I have a wholesale account with that site so I can match or beat their pricing. Excellent, thanks. I'll drop you a line when I can get some money together.
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Sep 21, 2012 17:41
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Planning on changing my oil tomorrow in my 06 WRX. Probably going to use the Rotella 5w30 synthetic, but any recommendations on a filter I can get at a normal auto shop? Trying to avoid driving really far to the Subaru dealership. This is my first time changing the oil on this car but I've done it on various other cars before, so anything to watch out for? Do you guys usually replace the crush washer or just stick it back in?
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Sep 22, 2012 01:55
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Iron Lung posted:Planning on changing my oil tomorrow in my 06 WRX. Probably going to use the Rotella 5w30 synthetic, but any recommendations on a filter I can get at a normal auto shop? Trying to avoid driving really far to the Subaru dealership. Do you have a pepboys nearby? I do quite enjoy my purolator one's.
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Sep 22, 2012 02:00
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Oh, Hi Jamal. My passenger side valve cover is leaking oil onto my up pipe. Come back and fix it for me?
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Sep 22, 2012 02:10
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Amandyke posted:Do you have a pepboys nearby? I do quite enjoy my purolator one's.
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Sep 22, 2012 03:19
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Totally TWISTED posted:Can you explain what this means? One big thing to remember with AWD and ice/snow is that it's all wheel drive, not all wheel stop, so don't think that AWD will magically let you corner or stop faster than you'd normally be able to. Depending on how cold it gets where you are, you might find that the shifter feels a little sluggish to move until the fluid in the transmission warms up enough to thin out a bit (which only takes a couple minutes of driving), so don't try and brute force the shifts if that happens.
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Sep 22, 2012 04:54
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azflyboy posted:One big thing to remember with AWD and ice/snow is that it's all wheel drive, not all wheel stop, so don't think that AWD will magically let you corner or stop faster than you'd normally be able to. Good point to keep in mind. I live in Tennessee (and not on the plateau or mountains) so getting to 25F is about the worst it's likely to get and that will be a rare occasion. I do want to try and give myself more time before work/etc to warm the car up before banging through the gears though.
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Sep 22, 2012 05:00
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Amandyke posted:Do you have a pepboys nearby? I do quite enjoy my purolator one's. I do, and an Oreilly's. I've read about those and they seem popular. If I cant find the Shell Rotella oil, what are the best backups?
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Sep 22, 2012 05:25
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Walmart carries rotella t and purolator filters. I figured I was going to have to get the oil at walmart and then go somewhere else for the filter last time and was pleasantly surprised. They don't have the nice gold filters but it's better than fram. Otherwise the napa filters are good. Markadopolous it's easy if you can find someone with small hands. Miss you guys.
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Sep 22, 2012 06:12
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Splinter posted:CEL came on throwing the following codes: The common routine here is swap the coil packs on that side and see if the misfire follows. Next step would be injectors on that side. Cylinder 3 is passenger side closest to the cabin. Being right near the turbo I see so many more issues in the area from the heat wearing stuff out faster; CV boot, valve cover gaskets, etc. Hopefully that narrows it down, if not, leak down test.
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Sep 22, 2012 06:29
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Totally TWISTED posted:Good point to keep in mind. I live in Tennessee (and not on the plateau or mountains) so getting to 25F is about the worst it's likely to get and that will be a rare occasion. I do want to try and give myself more time before work/etc to warm the car up before banging through the gears though. At that temperature, I don't think you'll run into issues with the transmission being sluggish. If you're trying to warm up the car, the best way to do it is to just drive it normally, since that'll warm up the various fluids much faster than sitting at idle. My experience is from living in North Dakota, and my Forester only got a sluggish transmission once the temperatures were around -10 or so.
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Sep 22, 2012 06:32
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Splinter posted:CEL came on throwing the following codes: Those are a big bunch of random codes to be getting together. Usually when I see a misfire it is from a bad injector or a cracked ringland. But getting a bunch at the same time is usually a ground or wiring issue. Getting the rear wheel sensor codes makes me thing you should look into that. Not with the sensors but with the wiring that goes there. I'll poke around the FSM and see if I can figure out the best place to start.
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Sep 22, 2012 06:44
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jamal posted:Walmart carries rotella t and purolator filters. I figured I was going to have to get the oil at walmart and then go somewhere else for the filter last time and was pleasantly surprised. They don't have the nice gold filters but it's better than fram. Otherwise the napa filters are good. Picked up both at Pep Boys, now I have an extra 3 quarts of oil since it only comes in gallon jugs! I also ended up replacing my air filter because it was filthy. I ended up with a Fram because it was there, but should I try to pick up a better quality/subaru OEM one? It was $10 so I'm more than fine picking up a new one in the next few months if they're terrible.
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Sep 23, 2012 04:27
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