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No, 2 amps is fine. Just don't leave it on for a week or something crazy. It would probably have enough charge out of the box to fire it up. Some say not to do that but I've never had a problem and my batteries generally last for years.
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Sep 23, 2012 06:26
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spixxor posted:Husband just bought a new battery for his bike. The only charger we have is one with 2 or 6 amp settings and it's not one that turns off automatically (sorry for my lack of proper terminology, I don't know diddly about this stuff). The instructions with the battery say to charge at 2-4 hours at 1 amp, or 1-3 hours at 1.5 amps. Is it going to hurt anything to charge it at 2 amps and just watch the little meter until it says it's fully charged, or will that screw something up?
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Sep 23, 2012 22:26
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http://www.amazon.com/Circuit-Performance-Heavy-Wiring-Harness/dp/B0032VINBW/ref=pd_sim_sbs_misc_5 If this is just an extension to add a ceramic plug, why don't the wires go straight across from terminal to terminal? For example, the red terminal doesn't go to the same terminal as it originated from. (Wrong side) I have these. Plugged them in when I was having problems with my normal setup, and noticed reduced performance. Then noticed that the wires don't simply extend. And I'm having a mindfuck here as to why that is.
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Sep 23, 2012 23:19
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If I preload the shifter with a bit of upward force, when I shift up I hear a barely audible click. If I don't preload the shifter, when I shift up I hear a clunk. Explain. (I'm guessing that, as I disengage the clutch, if there's a few milliseconds of time before I gear up, it allows something to slow down, which isn't the case if the shifter is preloaded.)
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Sep 24, 2012 03:10
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A proper trickle charger is like 20-30 bucks and while I'm not endorsing this idea, if you're only going to use it once you could get one from somewhere like Sears or Harbor Freight and just take it back when you're done
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Sep 24, 2012 05:42
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Tamir Lenk posted:What is the base made of? If it's black ABS plastic (like a lot of bike parts), we can repair it easily for about $5 in acetone and a couple of LEGOs. Sorry I didn't see this sooner, but I am just going to bite the bullet and order a replacement off eBay. I took a look this weekend and I don't think the plastic base is fixable by melting LEGOs and attaching it that way. I can get a close replacement unit for $60 after shipping. I appreciate the offer though!
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Sep 24, 2012 17:22
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epalm posted:If I preload the shifter with a bit of upward force, when I shift up I hear a barely audible click. Not quite - basically by preloading you're effectively clutchless-shifting even if you use the clutch. the gear clicks in the second the engine and driveshaft revs match. If you don't preload you might not get it as perfectly matched and so you hear a clunk as the drive and engine shafts speed up and slow down to match each others speeds.
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Sep 24, 2012 18:40
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So, tell me how terrible of an idea it would be to take my 2010 Bonneville on a trip from the SF Bay Area to Del Rio, TX and back. It's 1500 miles each way, I'd like to get it done in 2-3 days. Thus far I've only really done local rides on the order of a few hours tops. What kind of hell would I be getting myself into if I do this?
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Sep 24, 2012 19:09
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Pham Nuwen posted:So, tell me how terrible of an idea it would be to take my 2010 Bonneville on a trip from the SF Bay Area to Del Rio, TX and back. It's 1500 miles each way, I'd like to get it done in 2-3 days. Thus far I've only really done local rides on the order of a few hours tops. What kind of hell would I be getting myself into if I do this? Adjust your timeframe goals and it will be the best thing you've ever done. Your Bonnie is a great bike for it. However on interstate pushes, 500 miles per day is a pretty common limit before you're fighting fatigue, and if you're off the interstate, you'll probably be burning an entire day to do 300-400 miles. I would budget at least a week - more if you want to stop and look and not be in a hurry.
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Sep 24, 2012 19:15
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Pham Nuwen posted:So, tell me how terrible of an idea it would be to take my 2010 Bonneville on a trip from the SF Bay Area to Del Rio, TX and back. It's 1500 miles each way, I'd like to get it done in 2-3 days. Thus far I've only really done local rides on the order of a few hours tops. What kind of hell would I be getting myself into if I do this? Go do 500 miles in a day and see if you want to do it for three days in a row.
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Sep 24, 2012 19:35
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Not quite - basically by preloading you're effectively clutchless-shifting even if you use the clutch. the gear clicks in the second the engine and driveshaft revs match. If you don't preload you might not get it as perfectly matched and so you hear a clunk as the drive and engine shafts speed up and slow down to match each others speeds. To add, try not to preload for long periods of time. You will wear the face off of the dogs prematurely. Though realistically, I think that you'd have to do it pretty long for that to happen. Shown here is a where the dogs go into. Worn after clutchless shifting/abuse.  Close up of somewhat worn dogs: http://www.southbayriders.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=413865&d=1347420274 If worn down, your bike won't stay in gear any more and you'll see false neutrals in between other gears.
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Sep 24, 2012 20:28
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Why the hell would you want to go to Del Rio, TX?
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Sep 24, 2012 20:38
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xaarman posted:Why the hell would you want to go to Del Rio, TX? Visiting my brother
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Sep 24, 2012 20:56
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n8r posted:Go do 500 miles in a day and see if you want to do it for three days in a row. It gets progressively easier. Anybody's first 500 mile day is brutal, it is a poor indication for the next few days as you get into the rhythm and develop proper nerve damage. He did say it was 1500 miles each way though, so blasting through it on the interstate without stopping is pretty much a 6-day itinerary.
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Sep 24, 2012 20:57
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Ziploc posted:To add, try not to preload for long periods of time. You will wear the face off of the dogs prematurely. Though realistically, I think that you'd have to do it pretty long for that to happen.
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Sep 24, 2012 23:39
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Hi guys, I got a weird question. A couple of weeks ago I posted about my R6 idling rough after I accidentally put normal gas in it. I have since been running premium and used some injector cleaner the last time I rode, and that seems to have fixed some of the issues with the rough idling but I still got one problem: Sometimes when I downshift from higher gear (5 or 6) to come to a stop at a traffic light, the engine will randomly cut out when I pull the clutch and start downshifting. Fortunately, this has never happened during normal riding, just when stopping. However, I am beginning to worry that there is something amiss here. Finally, today I got on my bike after having ridden it in the rain about a week ago, and instead of the familiar blender sounding engine noise, it sounded much lower and more rumbly (not really a word - sorry). It also seemed that it was very jumpy when riding it at speed, and holding the throttle constant. The bike would sometimes feel like it wanted to launch forward a bit, and then slow down again. I am not sure if that means it's misfiring, but it definitely has been acting weird. Does anyone have any suggestions? I just haven't had time to bring it to a shop yet to get it looked at. I appreciate any assistance.
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Sep 24, 2012 23:41
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Pham Nuwen posted:Visiting my brother I'm going to assume he's at Laughlin because there's literally no other reason to go near that poo poo city. Fly there, and fly out. Better yet, go meet him in San Antonio and have him bring you some Rudys. The Julios chips, while good, are full of MSG. I lost two years of my life there, DO NOT GO!
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Sep 25, 2012 00:13
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Ziploc posted:http://www.amazon.com/Circuit-Performance-Heavy-Wiring-Harness/dp/B0032VINBW/ref=pd_sim_sbs_misc_5 current doesn't care what direction it goes through the bulb filament? As long as the red and the black are on the side terminals, I suppose it doesn't really matter which side is which.
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Sep 25, 2012 09:07
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Ziploc posted:http://www.amazon.com/Circuit-Performance-Heavy-Wiring-Harness/dp/B0032VINBW/ref=pd_sim_sbs_misc_5 Can you pull the terminals at the plug end and correct them? Usually they are held in by a brass prong that you can push in with a pick to release the terminal from the housing. If so, just reroute them to paths you like.
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Sep 25, 2012 15:40
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Who can tell me what the best way to mount a waterproof DC or USB adapter to the handlebars is? I don't have any equipment yet, but I'm looking to buy. I'm tired of having to hide my GPS when it starts to sprinkle (mounted on a RAM mount. I hate the Aquabox though and will just get a waterproof bag). I'm also tired of the thing dying on any ride over 3 hours
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Sep 25, 2012 17:54
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Tyorik posted:Who can tell me what the best way to mount a waterproof DC or USB adapter to the handlebars is? I don't have any equipment yet, but I'm looking to buy. I'm tired of having to hide my GPS when it starts to sprinkle (mounted on a RAM mount. I hate the Aquabox though and will just get a waterproof bag). I'm also tired of the thing dying on any ride over 3 hours without looking at the equipment in question, I'd say zip ties.
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Sep 25, 2012 18:00
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I'm mostly speaking of equipment in this case. I'm sure I can deal with cable management, but I'm not up and up on the hardware people use to power their GPS/phone/ipod/whatever these days
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Sep 25, 2012 18:51
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I let my bike sit about two months without firing it up (I'm a lazy idiot). Using the choke to warm the engine about 5-10 min, when I turn off the choke, the engine cant idle and dies. It can idle to some extent about 2K RPM but not with the choke completely off. I'm betting the carb jet is clogged or gummed up. Can I add seaform or some mixture to the gas to help clean it up temporarily or has the gas gone bad as well by now? I know this is a temp solution but I think I might wait until next year before I find time to clean the carbs, too much RL things going on right now.
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Sep 25, 2012 20:07
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Drain the old stuff, put fresh gas in, add (the proper amount of) Seafoam, ride the poo poo out of it.
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Sep 25, 2012 20:09
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clutchpuck posted:Drain the old stuff, put fresh gas in, add (the proper amount of) Seafoam, ride the poo poo out of it. +1 but Seafoam may not be aggressive enough to clean out a fully gummed up carb. If this doesn't help report back.
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Sep 25, 2012 22:03
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So the other day someone did this to my seat as I posted in the "What did you to do your ride today?" thread. Has anyone had a seat re-upholstered? I just got a quote for $185 from a local upholstery shop for a very basic re-cover, which seems expensive - this seat was $115. If that's the case I'll be spending some more time with rubbing alcohol and paper towels trying to get more of this stuff off (I made some solid progress today, not pictured). The vinyl is wearing out, though, so I wouldn't mind replacing it. ALTERNATIVELY, has anyone tried DIY re-covering? Gay Nudist Dad fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Sep 26, 2012 |
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Sep 26, 2012 00:04
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Gay Nudist Dad posted:ALTERNATIVELY, has anyone tried DIY re-covering? That's the stupidest loving piece of vandalism ever. I'm sorry that happened to you. If you can get someone to pre-make the vinyl pieces, it's easy. It took me 45 minutes with a pair of pliers and a staple gun to re-cover mine.
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Sep 26, 2012 00:10
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What an rear end in a top hat thing. Any solvents work or would it just damage the seat more?
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Sep 26, 2012 00:26
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Black spraypaint? Really though, after you do your best to remove it, I wonder if vinyl dye or something would take care of it the rest of the way.
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Sep 26, 2012 00:31
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Dude, I don't have anything to contribute but to simply extend: "What kind of loving rear end in a top hat does something so stupid?" I'm really sorry that happened, bud.
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Sep 26, 2012 01:02
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Gay Nudist Dad posted:Has anyone had a seat re-upholstered? I just got a quote for $185 from a local upholstery shop for a very basic re-cover, which seems expensive - this seat was $115. I had rider and passenger seat custom foamed and covered for $65 by a local marine upholstery shop. Keep shopping. Anybody who does any sort of upholstery or furniture can cut and glue or staple a seat cover on for you so don't limit yourself to automotive. A small shop may even give you a 'sorry you got spat' discount so provide the story along with it. As for DIY since it's just the cover and not dealing with foam or pan work it shouldn't be too bad. Cost of materials + a try or two at cutting the correct shape + a shitload of staples.
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Sep 26, 2012 01:11
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In the words of Vincent Vega,quote:Boy I wish I could have caught him doing it epswing fucked around with this message at 01:21 on Sep 26, 2012 |
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Sep 26, 2012 01:19
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This may be the wrong thread, but I'm looking for recommendations on helmet headsets. "Requirements" are bluetooth functionality, stereo, and I have to be able to use it with earplugs. Do these things work well for talk radio? I'm not looking for killer sound quality, just something to keep me awake when there's not very much light. I saw a review for the SENA 10 (?) that looked pretty nice, albeit bulky.
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Sep 26, 2012 01:44
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Halo_4am posted:I had rider and passenger seat custom foamed and covered for $65 by a local marine upholstery shop. Keep shopping. Anybody who does any sort of upholstery or furniture can cut and glue or staple a seat cover on for you so don't limit yourself to automotive. A small shop may even give you a 'sorry you got spat' discount so provide the story along with it. The place I went to does a wide variety of stuff, but do specifically say they do motorcycle seats. I figured I'd at least be scoping places that advertise marine upholstery, since that's the type of vinyl I'd be after. This is Seattle - there must be dozens of marine upholstery shops around here.
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Sep 26, 2012 01:46
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Gay Nudist Dad posted:So the other day someone did this to my seat So what the hell does SPAJ mean
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Sep 26, 2012 02:53
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:So what the hell does SPAJ mean "SEAT"
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Sep 26, 2012 03:16
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Gay Nudist Dad posted:So the other day someone did this to my seat I bet you can clean it off with the right cleaner or solvent. Thats vinyl or leather right? If you're ready to replace or cover the seat anyways, you really don't have anything to lose if you ruin the seat cover in the process.
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Sep 26, 2012 04:07
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`Nemesis posted:I bet you can clean it off with the right cleaner or solvent. It's (lovely) vinyl. Rubbing alcohol has worked pretty well so far, I think with some more work I might be able to get most of it off.
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Sep 26, 2012 04:51
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Gay Nudist Dad posted:It's (lovely) vinyl. Rubbing alcohol has worked pretty well so far, I think with some more work I might be able to get most of it off. Goof-off or goo-gone should get that right off. Especially if it's a smooth surface.
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Sep 26, 2012 05:15
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Gay Nudist Dad posted:"SEAT" Save a lot of time and effort by spraying the rest of the bike with the names of parts. Quicker, cheaper, and you'll be the toast of the local mod convention.
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Sep 26, 2012 07:29
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