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So I've got the vstrom loaded with me, MY GIRLFRIEND, hardcase saddle bags, and a topcase. Loaded. On our trip we encounter some short and steep hills, think rollercoaster, and in one of the valleys I heard a scrape (the bike was upright, wasn't the pegs). I'm not sure if the bike bottomed out or what. The bottom skidplate wasn't scratched up. Maybe the rear tire touched the spot under the seat? Is that even possible?
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Oct 2, 2012 20:59
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| # ? May 17, 2024 20:27 |
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Yes, although it was probably your headers or some hard point (suspension linkage?) that hit first. Nothing to be concerned about since you were probably loaded up to max weight.
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Oct 2, 2012 21:07
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Could it have rubbed the license plate or the little mud flap thing? My KLR used to do this if my plate wasn't bent slightly out.
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Oct 2, 2012 21:08
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epalm posted:So I've got the vstrom loaded with me, MY GIRLFRIEND, hardcase saddle bags, and a topcase. Loaded. Well, you're a goon, so it was probably your girlfriend bottoming out. 
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Oct 2, 2012 21:22
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epalm posted:So I've got the vstrom loaded with me, MY GIRLFRIEND, hardcase saddle bags, and a topcase. Loaded. Been there, done that - but deep into an unexpectedly-tight corner over a bump. I think the center stand bounced down and touched pavement. My wife won't let me ride her bike with her on the back anymore haha, she about clawed my jacket off after that.
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Oct 2, 2012 21:36
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e: oops, didn't notice that other page - this is talking about paddock stands, not luggage or GIRLFRIENDS My way of doing it has always been to hook onto the bobbins with the bike on the stand then carefully move the bike upright using the rear grabrail - I give a quick check to make sure it's all still in place then push the stand down with my foot, keeping a hand on the grab rail just in case. I've mentioned them before but Abba stands are much simpler to use and more versatile and aren't that much more expensive than a (good quality) paddock stand.
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Oct 2, 2012 21:44
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I have a pitbull rear stand and its really easy to use. Stand the bike upright, hold it with one hand by the tail section (it pretty much balances by itself if you have it up right). With the other hand put the stand in and place enough pressure on it that both sides are on the spools, then lift it and let go of the tail. I found its much easier if you align the stand before you stand the bike up. On mine I line the handle of the stand up with the right exhaust pile while its on the side stand and its in perfect alignment when its upright. Then you dont need to try align it one handed. Putting it down is also super easy. Side stand down, lift rear stand up and pull the bike towards the side stand and it will gently fall onto it. Two seconds either way.
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Oct 2, 2012 22:00
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First time I put my bike on the rear stand, I almost freaked out. A few days later (right after I installed my sliders), I forgot to have the sidestand down when I took it off the stand... I always use a phone book to prop the bike up just enough to make it super easy to put on the rear stand. I just bought a front stand that goes into the triple tree, which was interesting on the first go around. Easy to do, but I had to bend my horn a bit to get the pin to fit and basically lay on the floor to try and line it up. Now all I need is a shim kit and an entire Saturday to do my valves!
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Oct 2, 2012 22:51
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XYLOPAGUS posted:but I had to bend my horn a bit to get the pin to fit and basically lay on the floor to try and line it up Everyone's first time is a little awkward.
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Oct 2, 2012 22:56
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 My friend gave me his defunct 1983 Honda Shadow vt500c. I know next to nothing about motorcycles, but I've got a Clymer en route, the internet at my fingertips, enough determination to kill a giraffe with my bare hands, and I'm going to make this son of a bitch run come next spring. Aside from a few minor replacements (seat, tires, etc) and needing a spot of welding on a part of the bottom frame, the biggest thing is that it either needs a new starter or new starter solenoid. Is there any real way to tell which? edit: Also feel free to give me any tips to start, poo poo I need to make sure is in my garage, etc. Tools are pretty much on lock down at least since I have access to both my grandpa's and pop's collections. Nilbog Resident fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Oct 3, 2012 |
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Oct 3, 2012 00:00
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Grats on your new 80's shadow. The hondashadow.net forums are very active and helpful to all shapes and sizes of bikes. There's a number of members riding, restoring, or or actively converting 80's shadows into all sorts of weird poo poo. I suggest you sign up over there for some model specific tips. The solenoid can be tested on if it's sending current or not. If it's sending loads of juice and the starter motor still isn't turning then it's fine, and you need a new motor. Here's a pretty good write up on how-to with a car. The idea is the same just need to get the different numbers and location out of your clymer. http://www.wikihow.com/Test-a-Starter-Solenoid
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Oct 3, 2012 00:05
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Have you made sure the engine turns over yet? Put the bike in a high gear, get moving with the clutch handle pulled in, then drop the clutch. The rear wheel should keep going, and it should sound like the engine is going really slowly.
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Oct 3, 2012 00:18
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It doesn't turn at all. Will check out that other forum, thanks.
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Oct 3, 2012 01:26
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Woah woah woah, if the engine doesn't turn at all (even when you're forcing it), you have bigger issues than just the starter.
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Oct 3, 2012 02:04
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There's a blown fuse somewhere and I don't think all the wires are connected. So... hopefully it's just lots of little, smaller things.
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Oct 3, 2012 04:02
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I'm sorry if I wasn't clear. I meant, try to force the engine to turn by pushing the bike. That way you can make sure it isn't seized. How long has it been since the bike was running? It it hasn't been sitting long, this might be a nonissue.
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Oct 3, 2012 04:19
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Ahhh. Well, poo poo. That will be difficult to test considering it's running on flats, hahaha. I *believe* the last time it was starting was not longer than two years ago. I'm gonna have to talk with my friend I got it from some more and jot down all relevant information. Sorry to come to the party so under-dressed.
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Oct 3, 2012 05:09
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Well then you can take the side cover off and turn it with a ratchet.
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Oct 3, 2012 05:14
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What's the "spot of welding" it needs on the frame, exactly, and how did the frame get damaged?
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Oct 3, 2012 05:28
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Turn the engine with a ratchet? I'll give that a shot, should have my manual by the time my next day off rolls around. A patch of the bottom frame/kickstand are corroded from having battery acid leaked on them, I believe. I was told it just needs to have a new bar welded on where the bad patch is and a new kickstand. Bare in mind that I got this bike for free, fellas. My friend paid $220 when he got it.
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Oct 3, 2012 06:47
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Nilbog Resident posted:Turn the engine with a ratchet? I'll give that a shot, should have my manual by the time my next day off rolls around. You should be able to turn the engine by hand. Usually this involves pulling a side cover and turning the crankshaft with a large wrench. You do this for timing the cam chain, setting the ignition timing etc. Check the manual, as there will be a particular bolt head for turning the engine, and you don't want to turn the wrong one. If you can't find a way to turn the engine by hand, you may be able to do it with the wheel. Lift it on the center stand. Put the bike into a high gear (5th) and then try and turn the rear wheel. You should be able to turn the crank this way. If you cannot turn the engine by hand, it may be seized. If so, you need to clear that poo poo up before trying to start the engine.
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Oct 3, 2012 16:03
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Nilbog Resident posted:Turn the engine with a ratchet? I'll give that a shot, should have my manual by the time my next day off rolls around. A free bike can be like a free boat. Depending on what shape it's in you might be able to part it out and make enough to buy a running bike. Sometimes it's just not worth dumping $$$ into. Try and take some pictures of the frame and get them posted here, a compromised frame can not only be expensive but very dangerous. (not saying it's a lost cause, just something to think about)
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Oct 3, 2012 16:05
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This morning has sucked, and if I can figure out why the rest of the week need not suck quite so bad. I sat down on my 2004 Kawasaki Ninja EX500 this morning, opened the choke all the way (as that's what it takes to start this thing in anything but summer heat, and it's 45 degrees in Seattle this morning) and when I tried to start it this happened: The bike rumbled up, idled up to around 2k, then started sputtering down to 1.5k, 1k, and then I heard a click and EVERYTHING shut off. Headlight, panel lights, engine, everything. I let it sit for a few minutes as I gave one of my fellow motorcycle noobs a call, and he suggested checking the fuses. They're fine. As I poke around all the lights come back on, so I try the starter again: *Click* and all the lights go off again. No whir from the starter, just a click and everything shuts off. What did I do to my bike? Or alternatively, what is my bike doing to itself?
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Oct 3, 2012 17:12
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DJ_Ferret posted:This morning has sucked, and if I can figure out why the rest of the week need not suck quite so bad. Sounds like your battery is dead. Letting it sit a bit can cause the battery to recover some, but trying to start the bike drains it again. I'd charge up the battery on a trickle charger and then troubleshoot your charging circuit. I'm out of commission right now for similar problems. I discovered that my voltage regulator was fried, so my battery wasn't being charged. No juice equals no spark equals engine not running.
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Oct 3, 2012 17:21
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DJ_Ferret posted:This morning has sucked, and if I can figure out why the rest of the week need not suck quite so bad. Check the starter solenoid as well. They are like 5 bucks. You can jump it and see if the bike fires up, but its easier to buy a new one and shove it in and see if thats the issue. IF its not let us know. e: I say this because all 4 shadows I have worked on when the battery is acting like poo poo the starter solenoid wil at least buzz, we had one where the battery had literally exploded out one of its cells and the solenoid would still try to turn on and buzz a lot. So if it isnt the battery it might be the solenoid. Errant Gin Monks fucked around with this message at 17:27 on Oct 3, 2012 |
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Oct 3, 2012 17:24
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Errant Gin Monks posted:Check the starter solenoid as well. They are like 5 bucks. You can jump it and see if the bike fires up, but its easier to buy a new one and shove it in and see if thats the issue. IF its not let us know. The solenoid won't cause a running bike to fizzle and die. It only serves to power the starter. Are you sure you didn't blow a fuse? They can blow and still look to be intact. Swap that fuse anyway, since you probably have a bad one in place. Also, if all your electrics are flickering and dying, that makes it easy to locate the bad wire or other problem. If your fuses are solid, it has to be at the battery end. Grab a multi-meter and check the voltage. If it's low charge it up, but you may have a problem in the charging system. Either the battery is hosed or there are bad connections there. How long did the bike sit before you started it? Long enough for the battery to fade out? How old is the battery? Replacing a battery is NBD. Fault finding in the charging system is more of a PITA, but not horrible.
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Oct 3, 2012 17:40
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Tamir Lenk posted:
I have no clue how old the battery is. The previous owner did 0% of his own work on the bike, and was too ignorant about them to even change the oil often enough. I ride the bike daily, at least 10 miles a day. I rode home and parked it in front of my house at 5:45PM yesterday, no problems.
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Oct 3, 2012 17:51
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DJ_Ferret posted:I have no clue how old the battery is. The previous owner did 0% of his own work on the bike, and was too ignorant about them to even change the oil often enough. Sometimes it kinda just happens that way, I had a 2008 SV, battery was fine for a month after I bought it, went for a ride with some SV guys, stopped to get gas, ended up having to bump start my bike because the battery decided it was done being a battery. That was not a very fun ride.
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Oct 3, 2012 17:57
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All it takes is a cold snap to finally kill off a battery. Easy (and probably free) to test, just use some jump leads to try another battery, even a car one (without the car running) will do.
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Oct 3, 2012 18:46
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DJ_Ferret posted:I have no clue how old the battery is. The previous owner did 0% of his own work on the bike, and was too ignorant about them to even change the oil often enough. I'm the "motorcycle noob" he called :P I told him to take the battery to AutoZone or something to charge. If that doesn't do it then we'll test the start relay/solenoid but my money is on the battery especially since the lights came back on after a bit (90% of the things I fixed on my XJ were battery/charging related so I got that poo poo down).
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Oct 3, 2012 18:47
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DJ_Ferret posted:I have no clue how old the battery is. The previous owner did 0% of his own work on the bike, and was too ignorant about them to even change the oil often enough. Unless your riding is only really low RPMs, if your battery is dying over night, it's hosed OR your charging system is failing. Throw the battery on a trickle charger and see if it revives. If it won't charge back to 12-13 volts, ditch it for a new battery. Then test your charging system.
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Oct 3, 2012 19:10
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Ashex posted:I'm the "motorcycle noob" he called :P Again, I doubt the solenoid is the problem. But testing that is easy. Turn on the ignition and carefully use a screwdriver to short across the solenoid terminals. If it sparks and the starter spins, it's good. Make sure the bike is on the center stand and NOT IN GEAR. The sparks may startle you, but the bike shooting across the garage and stalling is extra fun.
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Oct 3, 2012 19:12
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DJ_Ferret posted:This morning has sucked, and if I can figure out why the rest of the week need not suck quite so bad. Assuming you've double-checked your master fuse and that your batter terminals are properly clamped down, the symptoms you've described sound a little bit like a bad earth - battery and charging problems shouldn't cause a running bike to die like that unless they're ridiculously bad (and as such they tend to be ridiculously easy to spot). If you have access to a multimeter, once you've checked the battery voltage obviously, check to see how much resistance there is between a (bare metal) part of your chassis and the disconnected neutral lead. Then try from your engine case (again on bare metal), it should be under a kiloohm (depending on the level of corrosion on the case). Basically if you have corrosion on the chassis earth clamp, the current running through it will steadily make it worse (increasing the resistance and rate of corrosion) until it eventually breaks the circuit. Letting it cool back down may make enough of a contact to allow the bike to run again.
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Oct 3, 2012 19:27
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Assuming you've double-checked your master fuse and that your batter terminals are properly clamped down, the symptoms you've described sound a little bit like a bad earth - battery and charging problems shouldn't cause a running bike to die like that unless they're ridiculously bad (and as such they tend to be ridiculously easy to spot). Of course if that grounding test shows too much resistance, it indicates a charging problem.  Check the diagram for your bike, but the frame grounds should tie into the R/R which in turn connects to the the battery negative terminal to charge it and draw excess battery juice. Also a bad charging system will do exactly what he describes since it will either fail to charge the battery and/or provide power through the R/R instead of the battery. While running, the bike will not draw enough power from the charging system, relying on battery power instead. Once that is used up, the bike will sputter and die as the coils lose power for spark, and the battery will be dead or too weak to power the starter.
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Oct 3, 2012 19:41
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Tamir Lenk posted:Again, I doubt the solenoid is the problem. But testing that is easy. Turn on the ignition and carefully use a screwdriver to short across the solenoid terminals. If it sparks and the starter spins, it's good. Make sure the bike is on the center stand and NOT IN GEAR. The sparks may startle you, but the bike shooting across the garage and stalling is extra fun. I agree, I don't think it's the problem. Either the battery is dead or there's a grounding problem somewhere, if he can't get it started later I'll bring my tools over to test it all.
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Oct 3, 2012 20:18
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DJ_Ferret posted:The bike rumbled up, idled up to around 2k, then started sputtering down to 1.5k, 1k, and then I heard a click and EVERYTHING shut off. Headlight, panel lights, engine, everything. Just to add in I agree with the above on battery or ground. A complete electrical failure as described has exactly 3 possible causes. 1. Dead battery 2. Loose battery connection 3. Main fuse blew Charging systems, solenoids, etc are all reasons a good battery could die, but they're not the cause of the problem you're having. The dead battery is. Bad grounds other than the main battery terminal will only cause partial failure, something electrical on that bike will still work. You've ruled out fuse by physically checking it and the fact the bike came back to life. Once the fuse blows it's blown there's no coming back without a new fuse. So you're on to battery testing and quadruple checking the terminal connections. I've had terminals look perfectly clamped down and have the starter button 'click' and proceed kill all electrical to the bike just as you describe. Pulled my hair out checking everything front and back and still nothing. When I finally went and checked the terminal (which on a VLX is retardedly hard to get at) the loving thing traveled on me when I touched it. Clamp and all! Upon closer inspection the screw used to mount the clamp tightly to the terminal connection had gradually flattened itself out because it was installed loose by the PO some years prior (see above on pain in the rear end battery access on a VLX). So while visual inspection showed the nut still secure to the bolt and looking like a solid clamp it was actually doing all kinds of wobbling around on there. New fastener and new nut and the problem was solved. There may be bigger problems than the battery or terminal lurking around, but worry on that first and if the next battery dies quickly worry about other suggestions as to why that might be. Halo_4am fucked around with this message at 21:27 on Oct 3, 2012 |
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Oct 3, 2012 20:41
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Tamir Lenk posted:Of course if that grounding test shows too much resistance, it indicates a charging problem. It's not impossible but I've never seen a reg/rec cause that sort of failure - a battery with enough juice to turn the crank will have enough left over afterwards to keep the engine going for quite a while, unless there's some other problems with the battery (not impossible if it's not been charged properly of course).
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Oct 3, 2012 20:47
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goddamnedtwisto posted:It's not impossible but I've never seen a reg/rec cause that sort of failure - a battery with enough juice to turn the crank will have enough left over afterwards to keep the engine going for quite a while, unless there's some other problems with the battery (not impossible if it's not been charged properly of course). My bike had a bad rectifier so the battery wouldn't charge reliably, at certain points it would get enough to charge but would drop back down while riding. Because of this the battery charge would get progressively lower but I could still start/ride it as long as I went on the highway.
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Oct 3, 2012 21:01
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goddamnedtwisto posted:It's not impossible but I've never seen a reg/rec cause that sort of failure - a battery with enough juice to turn the crank will have enough left over afterwards to keep the engine going for quite a while, unless there's some other problems with the battery (not impossible if it's not been charged properly of course). This is what happens. If the R/R is not charging the battery enough, the bike will start on the battery and run fine. As you are riding it, however, a bad R/R or stator will not supply enough power to keep the coils and lights powered. To compensate, the bike will draw power from the battery, which it should not need to do once the engine is running. Over time, the battery dies because it loses charge two ways (a) when it sits idle (like any battery) and (b) when it is covering for a bad R/R and/or charging system. The other way this can happen on a good charging system is where you do a lot of riding at low RPMs where the engine doesn't rev enough to keep a good output from stator. For instance, I live in the city and often ride around at low RPM (3,000) with frequent stops. My stator likes 4,000 - 5,000 RPM, so my battery needs a charge up from time to time, even during riding season. YMMV
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Oct 3, 2012 21:15
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| # ? May 17, 2024 20:27 |
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Do grips come in different lengths or am I just an idiot? I ordered some Renthal grips which they say are designed for street bikes, but they leave a pretty big gap on the throttle tube. Renthal looks like mostly a dirt-bike brand, did I accidently order sumo grips? Or do I need to stretch them/give them time?
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Oct 3, 2012 22:08
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