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Chronos13 posted:after having a 100% satisfaction experience with over 50+ orders from other companies, I really see no reason to go back to Rosewill considering that it hosed up the very first order of any product I've ever placed with them. This doesn't really mean anything. They didn't gently caress up your order, it was just a defective product. It happens. Even if their failure rate was like 1 in a million, you could still get a duff unit on your first attempt. With 100-odd keys on a keyboard it's probably nowhere near cost effective to get someone to individually check every key on every board. So one Cherry switched failed. They don't even make the switches, just assemble the boards (do they even do that? or just rebrand them?) The fact that so many people in this thread are pleased with Rosewill keyboards demonstrates that this is an unlucky anomaly, and if you get a replacement, it will more than likely be fine. You said yourself you like the keyboard, it just has a defective key. So just chill out and stop taking it so personally, get it RMAed and use your old keyboard, or a cheap stopgap, until it arrives. If you go with someone else, you are depriving yourself of the keyboard you chose, just to make a point to Rosewill in the form of a single lost sale that they will barely notice. chippy fucked around with this message at 15:43 on Oct 2, 2012 |
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Oct 2, 2012 15:41
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That and considering they are a pretty good deal and actually reply to the customer reviews on Newegg, I would have to say they don't really go out of their way to annoy their customers with faulty products. Nonetheless, if you want to get another mechanical keyboard, you can always look into brands like Filco or something. Filco is good but I kind of find their keyboards a little ugly (aesthetics durp).
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Oct 2, 2012 18:27
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Cream_Filling posted:Err what happened to your previous keyboard? My old keyboard is falling apart and has non-functionining keys. Sorry if I over reacted; I probably could have been more constructive. My intention was to convey that if anyone is thinking about getting this board, know that multiple reviews have had keys that don't work; also, the solder on the mini-usb is really poor (though it probably won't be a problem if you don't move the board too much.) Other than that, the feel of the board is amazing and I can't believe I haven't switched to a mechanical board sooner.
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Oct 2, 2012 19:33
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~Coxy posted:You can use USB Overdrive to get basically any kind of special keys to do what you want. Are the functions almost the same as KeyRemap4MacBook? I'm asking because I got all my media, volume keys all working except 'Eject (binded to Print Screen)' and don't wanna uninstall for another alternative solution. Might give it a shot if I can get all the function keys working.
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Oct 2, 2012 23:05
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Anyone looking to pick up a Razer blackwidow ultimate for mac? I've got one sitting here collecting dust that I would love to sell off. I will post up a picture if there is any interest
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Oct 2, 2012 23:38
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I realize this isn't necessarily a source for support, but Ducky isn't exactly easy to get support from. I have a DK 1087 that works perfectly in Windows. In Mac OS, however, the numlock key is stuck "on" which makes typing on it impossible. Anyone know how I can disable it?
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Oct 3, 2012 02:09
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Chronos13 posted:
If you want to spend a bit more, I really can't recommend the Filcos enough. The build quality is fantastic, you could beat someone to death with it. I think they look really nice as well, very sleek and minimalist, but I have the Ninja model so maybe that makes a difference.
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Oct 3, 2012 09:06
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MaxDuo posted:Is there a decent wireless keyboard one can use for gaming and everyday typing? I don't mean any of the ones with screens and lights and fancy stuff flying all over them... I could do fine with just comfortable keys and only 1-3 special extra buttons on one. I just ask mainly because I've always heard they are all too slow / can't send many key presses / etc. I've been using the same keyboard for about 15 years now and as awesome as it is, it's just getting too worn down looking. I use a Logitech K360 once in awhile, it and the M310 pretty much changed the way I look at wireless peripherals, because they work, and have excellent battery life. The K360 suffers from having relatively terrible rubber domes, though, I recommend trying to find a demo unit to see for yourself. Rollover wise I haven't had too many issues that I recall. I still wouldn't recommend them for a heavy duty gaming setup because it sort of feels like there's a barely noticable bit of lag on the mouse input, but it's not enough to where I can really, really notice it playing TF2. Probably the biggest annoyance with Logitech keyboards in general is that they sometimes have really bad n-key rollover/ghosting issues, even on some of their 'gaming' keyboards.
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Oct 3, 2012 13:11
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chippy posted:If you want to spend a bit more, I really can't recommend the Filcos enough. The build quality is fantastic, you could beat someone to death with it. I think they look really nice as well, very sleek and minimalist, but I have the Ninja model so maybe that makes a difference. Agreed. I recently acquired a Filco tenkeyless with blue switches and it's by far the most pleasant typing experience I've had my entire life. 
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Oct 4, 2012 05:33
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Sorry if this has already been pointed out, but if anyone is interested in the Choc Mini boards you can actually buy them on Amazon at the moment. It's a third party seller but Amazon is shipping them (so it's eligible for Prime). http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=noppoo+choc+mini The Blue and Black switches are $90 and the Red and Brown are $100. It says the stock is low on them, but after I bought a red board it went from 4 in stock to 8.
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Oct 4, 2012 07:20
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Xovaan posted:Agreed. I recently acquired a Filco tenkeyless with blue switches and it's by far the most pleasant typing experience I've had my entire life. Do all US-layout boards have those small enter keys? I never realised. Why do you need such a big \ and | key?
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Oct 4, 2012 09:48
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chippy posted:Do all US-layout boards have those small enter keys? I never realised. Why do you need such a big \ and | key? It's like other keyboard layouts, there's almost no thought in it. It has very little to do with need and everything to do with random legacy decisions. vv Oh yes, nobody is going to argue in favour of a half size backspace. That's just evil. HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 10:24 on Oct 4, 2012 |
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Oct 4, 2012 09:55
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I like the horizontal return key much better than the "mostly vertical with a tiny horizontal nudge"-type. But neither is worse than tiny backspace key. I personally like backslash to the right of forwardslash, at the expense of right-shfit's size, with a massive return and a medium backspace. But that's a seemingly rare design. But, yeah, what HalloKitty said.
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Oct 4, 2012 10:21
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I could totally live with a smaller return key, you're right. And that's not a bad placement for a backslash, but it's just so big. I would be totally down with admiraldennis's suggestion, that makes a lot of sense. I don't think I even use my right shift key, I always go for the left one.
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Oct 4, 2012 15:36
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vitari posted:Sorry if this has already been pointed out, but if anyone is interested in the Choc Mini boards you can actually buy them on Amazon at the moment. It's a third party seller but Amazon is shipping them (so it's eligible for Prime). http://www.ebay.com/sch/qtan5370/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686 qtan's store loving owns VVV Weird, the Prime logo usually shows up prominently for me. I still don't see it, but it may be because I'm not logged into my Prime account or something weird like that. glompix fucked around with this message at 23:00 on Oct 4, 2012 |
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Oct 4, 2012 17:21
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glompix posted:Not to knock on those deals, but qtan usually has Choc Minis up for less. I'd still probably buy from Amazon if those were Prime for the near-instant shipping, but they aren't. They are Prime though? At least they show up as Prime for me. When I bought one last night I got free two-day shipping on it. They aren't sold by Amazon directly but they ship them. That being said, qtan's store is excellent and I definitely recommend him as well. If you buy directly from his store it's cheaper than his eBay store too. http://www.vendio.com/stores/E-sports-Gaming-equipments/ vitari fucked around with this message at 19:21 on Oct 4, 2012 |
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Oct 4, 2012 19:19
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US-style enter is the best. You don't have to reach over 2 keys to press enter, unlike the absolutely retarded French Canadian / EU / UK layouts with the 2-row enter keys. The full-length left shift is great too.
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Oct 4, 2012 19:21
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Wild EEPROM posted:You don't have to reach over 2 keys to press enter, unlike the absolutely retarded French Canadian / EU / UK layouts with the 2-row enter keys. Agreed. Which is why my custom layout places 3 keys between hands.
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Oct 4, 2012 19:38
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I prefer the ISO layout personally simply because I grew up on it. In fact, having a one-row Enter key is incredibly annoying to me.
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Oct 4, 2012 20:59
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I'm British, but I use a US keyboard as its just way nicer for typing, especially programming. The left shift & enter key placement is just painful, as these frequently used keys cant be reached without moving your hands. I also like having single & double quotes on the same key. It's not perfect though: I'd love it if I could get a keyboard with a much narrower spacebar, with all the modifier keys moved in an inch or two towards the centre. I use a custom key layout that's a little Mac inspired, (Ctrl on the alt keys, alt on windows keys etc. ) as I find it more ergonomic, but it'd be even better if the spacebar wasn't twice as wide as it needs to be. I have two wear marks on my spacebar a couple of inches apart, but never touch it anywhere else. Has anyone seen a keyboard like this, with an otherwise standard ANSI layout?
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Oct 4, 2012 22:40
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Smuckles posted:I realize this isn't necessarily a source for support, but Ducky isn't exactly easy to get support from. I have a DK 1087 that works perfectly in Windows. In Mac OS, however, the numlock key is stuck "on" which makes typing on it impossible. In case anyone was interested, I haven't found a single way to fix this in Mac OS X. I did, however, find a secret menu in my BIOS settings (yes, hackintosh). While numlock isn't mentioned in the current Gigabyte BIOS, if you press CTL+F1 in the BIOS menu, it adds some extra options. Numlock at boot was one of them. The Ducky numlock key actually has no effect in Mac OS.
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Oct 4, 2012 23:08
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wooger posted:I'm British, but I use a US keyboard as its just way nicer for typing, especially programming. The left shift & enter key placement is just painful, as these frequently used keys cant be reached without moving your hands. The only times I've seen a heavily modified space bar layout were on the custom built Phantom boards that Geekhackers were putting together a few months back. There were holes on the PCB to mount maybe 5 or 6 switches where one space bar goes so there were a lot of variants with modifier keys and space keys intermixed depending on how the builder wanted it. I'm sure that's more work that you were looking for, though, since it was a kit you'd solder together yourself and it was costly and isn't available anymore as far as I know.
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Oct 4, 2012 23:23
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Finally my CC&G from geekhack (SP) arrived after over 6 months of waiting. They look so awesome on the Filco Ninja 2 (MX-Browns) the lovely smartphone photo doesn't really do justice. The Keyboard above is a Filco Ninja 2 TKL with MX-Reds, Vintage Cherry Doubleshots, a RGB-DS Kit from geekhack (SP) and some ninja caps until I get some Cherry replacements for them.
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Oct 5, 2012 11:34
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Xovaan posted:Agreed. I recently acquired a Filco tenkeyless with blue switches and it's by far the most pleasant typing experience I've had my entire life. Okay I'm convinced on Filco; however, I'm having an issue finding somewhere I can order a Filco with red switches. The only one that I see in Amazon is listed as unavailable. Anyone able to link me to somewhere I can order it?
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Oct 5, 2012 20:03
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Chronos13 posted:Okay I'm convinced on Filco; however, I'm having an issue finding somewhere I can order a Filco with red switches. The only one that I see in Amazon is listed as unavailable. Anyone able to link me to somewhere I can order it? Is it this one? http://www.amazon.com/o/ASIN/B007VAFWN2?tag=adapas02-20 The Keyboard Company keeps a decent stock on Amazon for us Yankees.
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Oct 5, 2012 21:06
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Has anyone bought a mechanical then switched back?
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Oct 5, 2012 23:07
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I switched to a Kinesis. Does that count? e: Kinesis is mechanical, but not clicky
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Oct 5, 2012 23:15
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Tab8715 posted:Has anyone bought a mechanical then switched back? I wouldn't switch back voluntarily, but I'm not sure I would buy another if my current one broke.
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Oct 5, 2012 23:50
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mlnhd posted:I switched to a Kinesis. Does that count? Which model do you use? I always enjoyed the MS 4000 Ergo Keyboard, aside from the crappy rubber switches. The Cherry Brown Kinesis ergo boards (either Maxim or Contoured) always looked like the top-tier version of the same idea. Pricey though.
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Oct 6, 2012 01:05
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My dad still uses the original MS Natural. I want that thing when he dies. I have every confidence that it will still be fully functional at that time.
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Oct 6, 2012 01:22
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Chronos13 posted:Okay I'm convinced on Filco; however, I'm having an issue finding somewhere I can order a Filco with red switches. The only one that I see in Amazon is listed as unavailable. Anyone able to link me to somewhere I can order it? Any reason on the reds over the blues or the browns? The click isn't really louder than pressing the keys of each; it's just a nice aesthetic bonus. Most people find the blues to be the fastest for typing and I've found them completely fine for gaming as well, if that's your thing.
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Oct 6, 2012 02:18
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Xovaan posted:Any reason on the reds over the blues or the browns? The click isn't really louder than pressing the keys of each; it's just a nice aesthetic bonus. Most people find the blues to be the fastest for typing and I've found them completely fine for gaming as well, if that's your thing. No, not particularly. I haven't actually experienced typing on any of them so I just gave it my best educated guess. The only reason I didn't choose blue was because I read that they're no good for gaming. I'm definitely open to it though. Would you recommend a particular board? Chronos13 fucked around with this message at 21:54 on Oct 6, 2012 |
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Oct 6, 2012 21:31
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Chronos13 posted:No, not particularly. I haven't actually experienced typing on any of them so I just gave it my best educated guess. The only reason I didn't choose blue was because I read that they're no good for gaming. I'm definitely open to it though. Would you recommend a particular one? Cherry browns or blues are probably the best general purpose switches. Cherry reds are rare in part because they're not that popular, since for many people the whole point of getting a mechanical keyboard is to get one with tactile feedback. I definitely would not recommend buying them unless you've tried them before since they tend to be more expensive and have more limited availability, which will often make it harder for your to return them if you don't like them. OXBALLS DOT COM fucked around with this message at 21:43 on Oct 6, 2012 |
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Oct 6, 2012 21:40
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Cream_Filling posted:Cherry browns or blues are probably the best general purpose switches. Cherry reds are rare in part because they're not that popular, since for many people the whole point of getting a mechanical keyboard is to get one with tactile feedback. I definitely would not recommend buying them unless you've tried them before since they tend to be more expensive and have more limited availability, which will often make it harder for your to return them if you don't like them. My biggest issue with the Reds when I used them on a number pad a buddy had was there was no way to tell if you had pressed the key enough. There was no feel so I ended up just bottoming out the keys to make sure I had pressed them enough. The one thing the Reds had going for them was the fact that they took so little effort to push. I ended up buying a Cooler Master Storm with Blues, but if I had had the option I would have gotten it with Browns. From what I have seen you get the feel of the blues without the click (which isn't that bad) and they take a slightly less amount of pressure to activate.
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Oct 7, 2012 05:18
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Backno posted:My biggest issue with the Reds when I used them on a number pad a buddy had was there was no way to tell if you had pressed the key enough. There was no feel so I ended up just bottoming out the keys to make sure I had pressed them enough. The one thing the Reds had going for them was the fact that they took so little effort to push. The spring on the Cherry MX brown, blue, and red switches are identical weights. Only clears and blacks have different, stiffer springs. So the effort should be more or less the same, minus the miniscule increase in effort due to the force needed to actuate the tactile bump mechanism/clicking mechanism versus no mechanism. They feel softer just because there's no tactile bump, even though the actuation point itself is actually at more or less the same point on browns, reds, and blues. That point is highly consistent and unvarying on all of them, but you can't tell where it is on reds/blacks without that bump. That's the point of the bump, after all - haptic feedback. Compare: Red vs. brown   The two light-colored wiry things on the left of the switch are the actual contacts that activate the key. The little plastic flange on the stem holds them apart when the key is up, and lets them touch when the key is pressed. On the brown, the flange/ramp thing has a little extra bump molded in so you can feel a bump right when it actuates. That's what they mean when they say "tactile feedback" or "tactile action." That part on the red is just a smooth, straight ramp, which is what they mean by "linear". I believe the only real advantage of the reds is when you are hitting a key repeatedly really, really fast due to the faster reset from not having a tactile bump. This will probably only be a concern for a small minority of users, especially since most of the time in a modern game, you're hammering on the mouse buttons and not your keyboard to shoot your guns or whatever. Note also that the activation of the key happens before the key moves all the way to the bottom and bottoms out. This is different from the common cheap rubber dome switch keyboards, where you must bottom out or nearly bottom out the key in order to make the contact and activate it. This means that you don't have to slam the key down all the way, which if you train it, can possibly make you a faster typist. It also just feels better for most people. The blue is the same as the brown, but has an extra moving part that makes a click noise:  An older type of clicky switch, the buckling spring switch, used a single buckling spring that, when it buckled, would hit a contact and activate the spring. In the buckling spring, the activation coincided exactly with the noise since that noise was created by the contact itself being made, whereas in the cherry blue, the clicker (shown in white here) hitting the bottom of the switch and making a noise is slightly off since it's not directly caused by the contact being made. Not a big deal, of course, but still a distinction some people notice. The buckling spring is also very, very stiff and very loud because it was originally developed for an era where a lot of people probably learned to type on mechanical typewriters. Personally, I like these because that solid *clack* is far superior to the rather high-pitched click of Cherry Blues. This might also be a function of construction, etc. - those old IBM buckling spring keyboards had a solid steel construction, and other stuff that I won't sperg further on right now. Here's a buckling spring:  Oh, and here's a rubber dome. It's the simplest sort of switch since it's literally just a bunch of little molded rubber domes with a contact at the top.  When the black bit held up by the rubber dome is pressed and hits the little metal spiral thing, it completes a connection and activates the key. Very simple, which is good because it's way cheaper than all the fiddly little moving parts, contacts, and springs in a mechanical keyswitch. But the rubber often feels mushy, there's not a lot of tactile or audible feedback, you have to bottom out, they don't last that long, and, when they start to wear, you get uneven resistance on the more frequently used keys. There's also a modified rubber dome called a scissor switch that adds some more mechanical parts to try and make the feel less mushy. They're used in the better laptop keyboards like the ones from Thinkpad or Apple, and also (i believe) all of Apple's modern desktop keyboards. There are other switches out there, but I don't know as much about them, though I still own a few old Alps switch boards dating back to the 80s and 90s. OXBALLS DOT COM fucked around with this message at 07:11 on Oct 7, 2012 |
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Oct 7, 2012 06:35
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I think the reason for scissor switches is that they force the key to remain flatter as it's depressed. You can get some deviance from deformation of the scissor switch's plastic or looseness of construction, and some front/back tilting if you deliberately hold one end up -- in general they're very good at have the entire key press down when you hit any part of the key.
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Oct 7, 2012 09:11
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Some logitechs use scissor switches too, my old solar one has them. I really hate them because I'm a horrible goon who often has a snack near a keyboard and I've always found them really susceptible to even the tiniest crumbs getting under there, and when I take the key apart to clean it it always takes me forever to reassemble the thing.
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Oct 7, 2012 09:44
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The Kensington Slim keyboards are also scissor switches. If you have to stick with rubber some for whatever reason I can't think of any at the moment), then I'd keep to scissor switches
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Oct 7, 2012 13:38
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Chronos13 posted:No, not particularly. I haven't actually experienced typing on any of them so I just gave it my best educated guess. The only reason I didn't choose blue was because I read that they're no good for gaming. I'm definitely open to it though. Would you recommend a particular board? I think as a general rule, the browns are considered the best middle ground between gaming and typing. Blues are meant to be the nicest for typing as they offer the most feedback, but some people don't like the click, and they have a deactivation point slightly above the activation point which makes double taps harder if you're not used to it, which is why some people don't like them so much for gaming (http://deskthority.net/wiki/Switch_terminology#Hysteresis). In reality though it's debatable how much you notice it. Here, have some people sperging about it: http://www.overclock.net/t/898198/some-thoughts-on-the-cherry-mx-blue-debate The browns activate and deactivate at more or less the same point so this effect not as pronounced. The reds are preferred by some for gaming since they are the lighest and you tend to bottom out your keys when gaming anyway so the lack of feedback doesn't matter so much, although with the browns I really like the ability to do quick taps without bottoming out the key in FPSs. Not that you can't do this with reds, but it's easier on browns because you have the little bump telling you when the key has activated. I'm really happy with my Filco with browns, it's awesome for both. It's a matter of preference though really and they're all leagues ahead of rubber dome switches. chippy fucked around with this message at 15:19 on Oct 7, 2012 |
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Oct 7, 2012 15:11
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balakadaka posted:The Kensington Slim keyboards are also scissor switches. If you have to stick with rubber some for whatever reason I can't think of any at the moment), then I'd keep to scissor switches The main reason to be sticking to rubber domes is if you have a laptop.
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Oct 7, 2012 16:35
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