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darkhand posted:Do grips come in different lengths or am I just an idiot? I ordered some Renthal grips which they say are designed for street bikes, but they leave a pretty big gap on the throttle tube. Renthal looks like mostly a dirt-bike brand, did I accidently order sumo grips? What kind of gap? Is the grip too short on the handle/throttle tube, or does it not fit snugly over the tube? If the former, you might just trim the excess and shorten the throttle tube. The fit over the tube is more important than the fit along the tube.
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Oct 3, 2012 22:11
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Tamir Lenk posted:This is what happens. If the R/R is not charging the battery enough, the bike will start on the battery and run fine. Ashex posted:My bike had a bad rectifier so the battery wouldn't charge reliably, at certain points it would get enough to charge but would drop back down while riding. Because of this the battery charge would get progressively lower but I could still start/ride it as long as I went on the highway. Yeah I understand what you are both saying but re-read what he wrote - it dropped out almost immediately after starting. That's not a flat battery or faulty charging problem, although both or either could also be involved. I'll say it again - a battery with enough juice to turn over and start the engine will have enough to keep the coil and lights going for at least a couple of minutes even if it's running as a total-loss system. For it to die so quickly after starting it pretty much has to be the main fuse, gross battery failure when starting current was drawn from it (I'd hope he was bright enough to notice electrolyte leaking or blown lids on the battery and mention them), battery terminal connections, or bad earth. As other posters had already mentioned the other possibilities I mentioned the bad earth one because it's something even professional mechanics are sometimes stymied by. Now the root cause of any of those failures (particularly fuse failure or gross battery damage) *may* be in the charging system but they could also be in dozens of other places and just charging in and replacing a 50 quid component when the failure might be able to be fixed with twenty seconds of spanner work or 5 minutes of soldering is a bit premature. goddamnedtwisto fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Oct 3, 2012 |
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Oct 3, 2012 22:14
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goddamnedtwisto posted:As other posters had already mentioned the other possibilities I mentioned the bad earth one because it's something even professional mechanics are sometimes stymied by. I'm with you 100%, but what ground besides the negative on the battery to frame connection is big enough to poo poo out the entire bike? In this case bad earth and terminal connections are the same thing, maybe just at the end opposite the terminal connection.
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Oct 3, 2012 23:06
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Silly me, posting discussion in question topic.
clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 00:36 on Oct 4, 2012 |
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Oct 3, 2012 23:33
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Halo_4am posted:I'm with you 100%, but what ground besides the negative on the battery to frame connection is big enough to poo poo out the entire bike? In this case bad earth and terminal connections are the same thing, maybe just at the end opposite the terminal connection. Well it depends on the layout of the bike and the battery terminals of course but your point is valid (and some lazy owners just bond earth of additions to the chassis rather than to the neutral, which is fine until the earth strap breaks). Generally the older they are the less fatal a bad earth is, which seems illogical but a carbureted bike non-CDI ignition literally gives no fucks as long as there's some sort of path back even if it's at near-infinite resistance, but a modern EFI bike with digital displays gets at best really confused by, and can be completely fried by, noise from the spark plugs making it into their neutral path.
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Oct 4, 2012 00:33
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Yeah I understand what you are both saying but re-read what he wrote - it dropped out almost immediately after starting. That's not a flat battery or faulty charging problem, although both or either could also be involved. Thought I'd give you guys an update, he took the battery to a shop nearby and they verified the battery was good although at 20-30% charge. He checked the battery terminals and they were very dirty from his description, after cleaning them up he was able to get the bike to start up.
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Oct 4, 2012 03:47
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Ashex posted:Thought I'd give you guys an update, he took the battery to a shop nearby and they verified the battery was good although at 20-30% charge. He checked the battery terminals and they were very dirty from his description, after cleaning them up he was able to get the bike to start up. HA!!! I was totally wrong!!!
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Oct 4, 2012 06:38
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Check that the voltage increases to the right level when the bike is running and revved up. Mine is supposed to go up to about 15 volts at 5000 rpm. Yours may be a different regulated voltage. Both too high and too low are a problem.
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Oct 4, 2012 15:05
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I need a new undertail/licenseplate type thing for the DRZ. My quick fix has already cracked from the awesome vibrationy power! Does anyone know of a good rear kit for the DRZ? I've seen several that are LED's, what do I need to do for an LED conversion?
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Oct 4, 2012 16:04
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Ashex posted:Thought I'd give you guys an update, he took the battery to a shop nearby and they verified the battery was good although at 20-30% charge. He checked the battery terminals and they were very dirty from his description, after cleaning them up he was able to get the bike to start up. How old is the battery? I had to replace mine in May after having similar issues to what you were describing. Granted, the battery was something like 5 years old by my guess, so it was to be expected, but I was having sporadic starting issues. Now I'm waiting on a new voltage regulator/rectifier and stator wires to come in and then I'll be back to riding (just in time for cold Chicago weather)!
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Oct 4, 2012 16:22
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Halo_4am posted:I'm with you 100%, but what ground besides the negative on the battery to frame connection is big enough to poo poo out the entire bike? In this case bad earth and terminal connections are the same thing, maybe just at the end opposite the terminal connection. When the bike is running, it draws power from the R/R positive, to the returns to the R/R negative should balance out. So it's better to have all grounds (except the starter) - including the frame ground - route through the R/R and then ground the R/R negative to the battery. The ground from the R/R to the Battery negative is where the action is. If that connection gets too corroded, it fucks up how much charge goes from the R/R to battery. If your grounds are split between the R/R and the battery, that adds potential corrosion spots and clutters the voltage between the R/R and battery skewing charge rates. Also having too many connections on the ground path to the R/R presents more chances for corrosion that will frustrate the current regulation and wear down your charging system, sending current back to the stator to deal with as heat, overcharging the battery, or undercharging the battery. The bike won't poo poo out in an instant, but it will tear through batteries. If a battery gets beaten down (like >40% capacity), the amp draw of the starter can finish it off pretty quickly.
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Oct 4, 2012 17:02
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:I need a new undertail/licenseplate type thing for the DRZ. My quick fix has already cracked from the awesome vibrationy power! This is the absolute best one:  Buy it here:http://www.wheelingcyclesupply.com/shop/3/24/index.shtml
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Oct 4, 2012 17:12
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americanzero4128 posted:How old is the battery? I had to replace mine in May after having similar issues to what you were describing. Granted, the battery was something like 5 years old by my guess, so it was to be expected, but I was having sporadic starting issues. Now I'm waiting on a new voltage regulator/rectifier and stator wires to come in and then I'll be back to riding (just in time for cold Chicago weather)! Day Man posted:Check that the voltage increases to the right level when the bike is running and revved up. Mine is supposed to go up to about 15 volts at 5000 rpm. Yours may be a different regulated voltage. Both too high and too low are a problem. I'll be swinging by his place later today with my multimeter and circuit tester (he replaced the fuse in the starter as it was beat up), I'm pretty sure it was just dirty contacts but we'll know for sure today.
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Oct 4, 2012 19:18
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Ashex posted:I'll be swinging by his place later today with my multimeter and circuit tester (he replaced the fuse in the starter as it was beat up), I'm pretty sure it was just dirty contacts but we'll know for sure today. Wait, this bike is in Chicago? If you need my clumsy help, hit me up at tamirlenk [at] gmail. The starter is fused on that bike? Interesting.
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Oct 4, 2012 19:32
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:I need a new undertail/licenseplate type thing for the DRZ. My quick fix has already cracked from the awesome vibrationy power! the DRC edge tail light is the bees knees. Pretty much everyone with DRZ at Thumper Talk has it. Easy to install and sturdy as it comes. You don't have to do anything special for wiring the LED tail light. Turn signals are a different story, but someone else would be more helpful than myself on that.
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Oct 4, 2012 22:08
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Ordered the DRC, thanks guys. I'd seen it before, but I had no idea what it was called.
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Oct 4, 2012 22:42
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Tamir Lenk posted:Wait, this bike is in Chicago? If you need my clumsy help, hit me up at tamirlenk [at] gmail. Man, I always get offers to help from people who don't leave nearby  We're over in Seattle. I don't have a ninja but research showed people saying that, he didn't say where the fuse was but I told him to look at the starter.
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Oct 5, 2012 05:38
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MooseNoose posted:the DRC edge tail light is the bees knees. Pretty much everyone with DRZ at Thumper Talk has it. Easy to install and sturdy as it comes. I had a small issue because the -E has no metal subframe under the tail to install the Edge to and it was too skinny to slide over the wee knubs that the previous kit was installed on. So ghetto Orange (and brother-in-law) drilled straight down through the tail to attach the two bolts. You can just see their shiny heads.  Wish I'd had time or inclination to come up with a better solution, but it works and doesn't look too shabby
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Oct 5, 2012 08:57
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Orange Someone posted:
I'm not sure what all the options are out there for your problem, but DRC does make a few other tail light models that might suit you better. http://www.drcproducts.com/elect/index.html
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Oct 5, 2012 10:58
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I've had my motorbike for a few months now, and it's also the first motor vehicle I've ever owned. So I've never had to even think about "is this bad for the long term health of my ____" before, but now I find myself thinking that almost every time I do something other than cruising (e.g. accelerating, stopping, shifting). I have a bunch of these, but the only one on my mind right now is about clutch and transmission. Can anyone give me a few do/don'ts about how to use your clutch and transmission in a way that will help them stay healthy? Also, is engine braking (e.g. down a hill) bad for my bike?
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Oct 5, 2012 22:46
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I'm going to be rebuilding my clutch master on my CB650 tomorrow, and I'm wondering what the best way is to get the fluid out and the reservoir off without getting brake fluid everywhere?
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Oct 5, 2012 23:37
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A Proper Uppercut posted:I'm going to be rebuilding my clutch master on my CB650 tomorrow, and I'm wondering what the best way is to get the fluid out and the reservoir off without getting brake fluid everywhere? bleed it all out through the bleeder on the caliper, then take it off the bike, hose and caliper and all, then rebuild it? I rebuilt the one on my CX500 while still on the bike, wasn't fun.
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Oct 5, 2012 23:41
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SaNChEzZ posted:bleed it all out through the bleeder on the caliper, then take it off the bike, hose and caliper and all, then rebuild it? Yea I guess I'm just unsure about how to catch all the fluid coming out of the bleeder. I am still pretty new with the whole motorcycle maintenance thing. I was gonna disconnect the hose from the master instead of taking off the slave too.
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Oct 5, 2012 23:50
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Yea I guess I'm just unsure about how to catch all the fluid coming out of the bleeder. I am still pretty new with the whole motorcycle maintenance thing. Get a length of fuel line, or aquarium air line and put one end over the bleeder, other end in a bottle so that when it squirts out, it goes into the bottle. If you disconnect the hose from the master before bleeding the line, that will be ultra messy. Take the cap off of the res. and get as much out as you can with a rag or something, then bleed the lines/caliper, then rebuild, replace and re-bleed. I would also suggest enlisting someone to help if you can, it makes it 10x easier with another pair of hands.
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Oct 6, 2012 00:10
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SaNChEzZ posted:Get a length of fuel line, or aquarium air line and put one end over the bleeder, other end in a bottle so that when it squirts out, it goes into the bottle. Thanks for the help, pretty sure I've got a good handle on what I need to do now.
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Oct 6, 2012 00:22
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SaNChEzZ posted:Take the cap off of the res. and get as much out as you can with a rag or something, then bleed the lines/caliper, then rebuild, replace and re-bleed. If you have any friends that work in healthcare, ask them for a syringe to suck the fluid out of the reservoir, then bleed it like Sanchezz suggested. If you don't have any friends who can supply you with one, check your local pharmacy, but be prepared to get some weird looks when you ask for a syringe. They looked at me like I was going to shoot heroin or something...
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Oct 6, 2012 00:25
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cixelsyd posted:If you have any friends that work in healthcare, ask them for a syringe to suck the fluid out of the reservoir, then bleed it like Sanchezz suggested. If you don't have any friends who can supply you with one, check your local pharmacy, but be prepared to get some weird looks when you ask for a syringe. Go to a vets instead and ask for the largest dosing syringe they have
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Oct 6, 2012 01:47
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Or you can just buy syringes from Amazon you don't have to raid a dispensary like some sort of junkie weirdo. That 100cc one looks about right.
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Oct 6, 2012 01:51
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Go to the grocery store and exchange about $6 for a marinade injector.
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Oct 6, 2012 02:15
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alnilam posted:I've had my motorbike for a few months now, and it's also the first motor vehicle I've ever owned. So I've never had to even think about "is this bad for the long term health of my ____" before, but now I find myself thinking that almost every time I do something other than cruising (e.g. accelerating, stopping, shifting). Z3n?
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Oct 6, 2012 06:03
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alnilam posted:I've had my motorbike for a few months now, and it's also the first motor vehicle I've ever owned. So I've never had to even think about "is this bad for the long term health of my ____" before, but now I find myself thinking that almost every time I do something other than cruising (e.g. accelerating, stopping, shifting). Shift firmly, don't halfass it. Halfassing it causes missed shifts and eventual transmission damage. Make sure your clutch cable is adjusted correctly (too tight will cause excessive clutch wear and slipping, too loose will cause notchy, difficult shifting and eventual transmission damage). Make sure your chain is lubed, not too tight. Err on the side of loose over tight. It's better to slip the clutch than lug the engine. Engine braking is not bad for your bike. That should cover the basics.
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Oct 6, 2012 06:12
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Also when shifting, don't "ride" the shifter, i.e. don't be putting a little pressure on the lever while you're waiting to shift. It's like halfassing a shift, it makes parts barely start touching that need to be either fully engaged or separate. Either be banging that shifter or pretty much keep your foot off of it.
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Oct 6, 2012 06:27
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Oh - that's a good one that reminded me of another. Adjust your shift lever, brake levers, and clutch to be comfortable. Helps avoid riding them and helps make the bike yours.
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Oct 6, 2012 06:30
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How about if you're in top gear? My new cruiser has a heel shifter, it'd be nice to rest my foot on it when cruising on the highway, but doesn't seem like a good idea so I haven't been. Is that true, when it's in 5th is putting pressure on it doing anything or is it "locked" some way?
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Oct 6, 2012 12:05
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thylacine posted:How about if you're in top gear? My new cruiser has a heel shifter, it'd be nice to rest my foot on it when cruising on the highway, but doesn't seem like a good idea so I haven't been. Is that true, when it's in 5th is putting pressure on it doing anything or is it "locked" some way?
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Oct 6, 2012 13:37
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cixelsyd posted:If you have any friends that work in healthcare, ask them for a syringe to suck the fluid out of the reservoir echomadman posted:Go to a vets instead and ask for the largest dosing syringe they have Safety Dance posted:Go to the grocery store and exchange about $6 for a marinade injector. What you're all really looking for is a Turkey Baster 
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Oct 6, 2012 20:52
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I bought a 2008 Versys yesterday and am loving it, I do kinda wish I got the one I test drove earlier that week as it definitely had a bit more torque to it but this one has 15k less miles. Anyways, I noticed that sometimes when I let up on the throttle the exhaust backfires while decelerating, it's more a popping sound. It has been fitted with a Two Brothers Juice Box, is it possible that it wasn't set right and is causing the backfire? Also has the exhaust to match.
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Oct 6, 2012 22:10
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Sorry to ask about oil again since it seems to happen every few pages, but I am not 100% sure what to put in my bike. The manual says to use Yamalube 4 (20w40) or SAE 20W40 tyoe SE motor oil at 5 celsius/40 fahrenheit or higher and 10w30 at 15 celsius/60 fahrenheit or lower. I live in florida so I am guessing I should go with 20w40. I was at the auto parts store and I saw the Rotella T that people had talked about previously, but they only had 15w30. Is that okay to get for my bike? It's an R6. Also, what does the JASO MA/MA2 thing mean, and is that required? I would like to change the oil as little as possible, does that mean I need to run fully synthetic? Any help is much appreciated!
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Oct 6, 2012 22:20
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Use the same weight if possible when looking at oil, You can probably use 10w40 in your bike. JASO is a quality standard, stick with whatever your bike says. (wiki info).
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Oct 6, 2012 22:28
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I was oiling the chain on my 98 zx6r today and noticed that theres a lot (>5mm) of rotational movement between the rear sprocket and wheel. I took the wheel off and the cush drive rubber is all there, I guess it must have just squished up with age, is this too much free play?
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Oct 6, 2012 22:28
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