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OrganizedEntropy
Jun 17, 2005
Carnot Can Kiss My Ass

frozenphil posted:

Replacing the clutches in the diff is what they will be doing. The stock clutches going bad isn't common, but it isn't unusual; if that makes sense.

This has been a common issue with the 2011/2012 5.0's and GT500's. If you bring it in with a noisy diff, Ford adds a friction modifier to the rear diff fluid and it fixes the noise.

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Elephanthead
Sep 11, 2008


Toilet Rascal

OrganizedEntropy posted:

This has been a common issue with the 2011/2012 5.0's and GT500's. If you bring it in with a noisy diff, Ford adds a friction modifier to the rear diff fluid and it fixes the noise.

Long enough to get past that 3 year warranty! Got to love Ford's long term strategy.

Radiohead71
Sep 15, 2007

frozenphil posted:

Replacing the clutches in the diff is what they will be doing. The stock clutches going bad isn't common, but it isn't unusual; if that makes sense.

Well they just called me and said that the car is fine and there is nothing wrong with the clutch discs. He said that there is a TSB that explains the noise and that it is normal, due to the LSD. I swear it sounds like something is dying back there but I guess I will let it slide. Not sure of the service interval for the fluid? Thanks for the replies.

Fifty Three
Oct 29, 2007

IOwnCalculus posted:

I'd drive that thing to work nearly every goddamn day. Dead serious.
Yyyyyup. Any day that isn't a bike day is a... that thing day.

Holdbrooks
Jan 1, 2005

NEAI 2015
RIDE ETERNAL SHINY AND CHROME
ONWARD TO THE HALLS OF RUSTHALLA
I am looking for some insight on boltons for my moms car. She has a 2011 GT/CS convertible and I put on the flowmaster hushpower axelback as soon as we got it home. What are the common things to free up some ponies in these with relatively easy install. I'm thinking along the lines of CAI, intake, test pipe, maybe headers if the install isn't awful. As far as the tune I have no idea what to do or what companies I should avoid, I remember hearing about some that were blowing motors.

Devyl
Mar 27, 2005

It slices!

It dices!

It makes Julienne fries!

IOwnCalculus posted:

I'd drive that thing to work nearly every goddamn day. Dead serious.

You need an Atom.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

So when I bought my '00 GT, I googled around (because I don't have the owner's manual), and it seemed 87 was the octane to use. I switched to 89 the other day because I noticed some definite pinging under hard acceleration. It seems to be gone now.

Is 87 the actual recommendation from Ford (as claimed by most of the sites I found via google), or have I been slowly destroying the love of my life over the last 5 months? Is 89 sufficient for the car?

Devyl
Mar 27, 2005

It slices!

It dices!

It makes Julienne fries!

Krakkles posted:

So when I bought my '00 GT, I googled around (because I don't have the owner's manual), and it seemed 87 was the octane to use. I switched to 89 the other day because I noticed some definite pinging under hard acceleration. It seems to be gone now.

Is 87 the actual recommendation from Ford (as claimed by most of the sites I found via google), or have I been slowly destroying the love of my life over the last 5 months? Is 89 sufficient for the car?

For 2000, 87 was the recommended grade for fuel. Unless you've got modifications, 87 should still be sufficient. If you're getting some pinging, when was the last time you checked your plugs?

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

Devyl posted:

For 2000, 87 was the recommended grade for fuel. Unless you've got modifications, 87 should still be sufficient. If you're getting some pinging, when was the last time you checked your plugs?
Documented done just prior to me buying the car, so ~6 months. I suppose it's time for a tuneup.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

Holdbrooks posted:

I am looking for some insight on boltons for my moms car. She has a 2011 GT/CS convertible and I put on the flowmaster hushpower axelback as soon as we got it home. What are the common things to free up some ponies in these with relatively easy install. I'm thinking along the lines of CAI, intake, test pipe, maybe headers if the install isn't awful. As far as the tune I have no idea what to do or what companies I should avoid, I remember hearing about some that were blowing motors.
A mid-pipe is easy and is worth some power, CAI isn't worth the money on this generation, headers and intake aren't worth the effort until you add forced induction. A hand held tuner with tunes from any of the companies below is the single best dollar to power mod you can do. Ranked in no particular order:

Blow By Racing
VMP Tuning
Lethal Performance
Brooks Speed

Krakkles posted:

Documented done just prior to me buying the car, so ~6 months. I suppose it's time for a tuneup.
If they replaced the stock platinum plugs with copper plugs they are probably about due for replacement. Those engines eat copper plugs in about 15k miles.

CmdrSmirnoff
Oct 27, 2005
happy happy happy happy happy happy happy happy happy
Is an '07 GT a terrible idea for a daily driver? Doing 80 - 200km/day. Canadian winters included. Will it disintegrate around me within 6 months?

goodfuldead
Feb 14, 2009

what a long strange thread its been

CmdrSmirnoff posted:

Is an '07 GT a terrible idea for a daily driver? Doing 80 - 200km/day. Canadian winters included. Will it disintegrate around me within 6 months?

Solid cars. It'll be fine. I mean it was designed to be driven.

CmdrSmirnoff
Oct 27, 2005
happy happy happy happy happy happy happy happy happy

goodfuldead posted:

Solid cars. It'll be fine. I mean it was designed to be driven.

Good to know because I just got back from test-driving one with a body kit, Saleen suspension and Roush parts all put in at the dealership when he bought it (only go-fast bits are a CAI and chip).

Teen driver? Nope. Old Persian guy who used it to get to his restaurant the past five years. I was looking at Infiniti G37s and poo poo like that but now I'm in love with that big black beast :allears:

Also comes with 3 sets of rims, including the original 18s that were never driven on that I could throw a set of winters on.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

CmdrSmirnoff posted:

Is an '07 GT a terrible idea for a daily driver? Doing 80 - 200km/day. Canadian winters included. Will it disintegrate around me within 6 months?

Mustangs are incredibly solid cars. Sure you'll get some interior rattles and such, but nothing major is going to fail on you outside of expected life times.

vote_no
Nov 22, 2005

The rush is on.
I'm still driving my '98 Mustang through Minnesota winters.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

vote_no posted:

I'm still driving my '98 Mustang through Minnesota winters.
But guyyyyyyys, they're terrible in snow/low traction situations!!!

I've gotta say, my GT is even MORE predictable than my Miata ever was, and those are pretty predictable. It's by far the most predictable car I've ever driven.

I drive a BBW
Jun 2, 2008
Fun Shoe
I bought a 96 GT road course car about a month ago and finally got it onto the track this weekend. Saturday went good minus some easily fixable suspension issues, but Sunday after the first session the car was blowing a decent amount of white smoke out of the exhaust.

I checked the compression last night and got the following:
4 - 45
3 - 0
2 - 175
1 - 65

8 - 185
7 - 190
6 - 185
5 - 180

Seems to me like a blown head gasket, but just wanted to get another opinion before I start tearing into this thing.

Only engine mods are Non-ported/polished PI heads and shorty headers. Car has about 65k miles and four track weekends on it.

The weird thing is I never saw any high water or oil temps before this happened, which makes a head gasket seem odd, but with the compressions on the passenger side it seems to point to a head gasket.

I drive a BBW fucked around with this message at 18:32 on Oct 10, 2012

ssspy007
Aug 5, 2003

blk96gt posted:

I bought a 96 GT road course car about a month ago and finally got it onto the track this weekend. Saturday went good minus some easily fixable suspension issues, but Sunday after the first session the car was blowing a decent amount of white smoke out of the exhaust.

I checked the compression last night and got the following:
4 - 45
3 - 0
2 - 175
1 - 65

8 - 185
7 - 190
6 - 185
5 - 180

Seems to me like a blown head gasket, but just wanted to get another opinion before I start tearing into this thing.

Only engine mods are Non-ported/polished PI heads and shorty headers. Car has about 65k miles and four track weekends on it.

The weird thing is I never saw any high water or oil temps before this happened, which makes a head gasket seem odd, but with the compressions on the passenger side it seems to point to a head gasket.

When the PI heads were put on, was the intake manifold changed too? I am pretty sure it had to be, but that engine was notorious for the composite intake manifold cracking. If the intake manifold is cracked it will have similar symptoms to a blown head gasket.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

blk96gt posted:

I bought a 96 GT road course car about a month ago and finally got it onto the track this weekend. Saturday went good minus some easily fixable suspension issues, but Sunday after the first session the car was blowing a decent amount of white smoke out of the exhaust.

I checked the compression last night and got the following:
4 - 45
3 - 0
2 - 175
1 - 65

8 - 185
7 - 190
6 - 185
5 - 180

Seems to me like a blown head gasket, but just wanted to get another opinion before I start tearing into this thing.

Only engine mods are Non-ported/polished PI heads and shorty headers. Car has about 65k miles and four track weekends on it.

The weird thing is I never saw any high water or oil temps before this happened, which makes a head gasket seem odd, but with the compressions on the passenger side it seems to point to a head gasket.

If it's not what ssspy007 said it might be the deck surface on the block. The PI heads and their MLS gasket need a super straight surface to seal correctly; a requirement that the NPI heads, and thus deck surface of your block, didn't have from the factory.

I drive a BBW
Jun 2, 2008
Fun Shoe
It does have the PI intake, and I was planning on pulling that off tonight.

I should also add that there was no water from the cooling system in the oil. The oil looked like poo poo when I changed it, but it wasn't milky. I haven't drained the cooling system yet, but at first glance there is no oil in the reservoir.

I did have oil pooled up up the CAI tube as well and it was dripping out of the air filter.

A.o.D.
Jan 15, 2006

CmdrSmirnoff posted:

Is an '07 GT a terrible idea for a daily driver? Doing 80 - 200km/day. Canadian winters included. Will it disintegrate around me within 6 months?

Despite the fact that Top Gear likes to deride the fact that Mustangs aren't lotuses or ferraris, the upside of that is that they aren't Lotuses and Ferraris. The 4.6 modular is drat near bomb-proof, and while the suspension isn't space age, it works and works well. Just drive the drat thing, do your scheduled maintenance, and not worry about a thing.

I drive a BBW
Jun 2, 2008
Fun Shoe
Drained the water out of the radiator and there was oil in it. Lots of black poo poo in it too. Definitely looking like head gasket now. Will probably go ahead and pull both heads and take them to a machine shop.

Should I drop the cash on ARP studs or just get TTY bolts? Anybody have any recommendation on head gaskets?

AWWNAW
Dec 30, 2008

Have a '13 GT with manual, and getting a pretty loud clunk and resistance in the shifter when going from first to second and second to third. Was going to get an 11 or 12 model but I heard there were problems with the trans that should've been addressed in the newer models. Should I wait until my first oil change to bitch at the dealer or what? I don't want to have to leave my brand new car with them for a week.

:negative:

Longpig Bard
Dec 29, 2004



AWWNAW posted:

Have a '13 GT with manual, and getting a pretty loud clunk and resistance in the shifter when going from first to second and second to third. Was going to get an 11 or 12 model but I heard there were problems with the trans that should've been addressed in the newer models. Should I wait until my first oil change to bitch at the dealer or what? I don't want to have to leave my brand new car with them for a week.

:negative:

I think that's normal, depending on what you call "pretty loud". Also, shifting technique plays a part. I noticed if I hold the stick with a pistol grip going from 2nd to 3rd, I'll get some chatter in the linkage... but if I just push it with the pads of my palms, it pops right into third.

Longpig Bard fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Oct 13, 2012

thetechnoloser
Feb 11, 2003

Say hello to post-apocalyptic fun!
Grimey Drawer
Anyone know the best place to pick up wheel touch-up paint? Got a 2012 with the Sterling Gray wheels on it, and found out today that Ford only stocks touch-up body paint.

Yes, I've googled it. Just want to know if there's a place that's better than others.

Paint code M7205-W.

Geology
Nov 6, 2005

Ugh.. I was out running errands today and when I started my car (2012 GT) the idle was very rough and it bogged down to 500rpm. The idle stabilized after a while in the parking lot so I drove 4 miles to get dinner. After dinner the same thing happened. I tested with the a/c on and off. With a/c on the idle seemed okay if a little low but with a/c off it bogged down and even stalled once! I decided to drive home with the a/c on. After driving for about 100 ft, the CEL came on. Now I'm thinking poo poo... Bama tune nightmare scenario. On the drive home I took it real easy and it felt fine but the idle was rough at stoplights. When I got home I checked the code with my SCT tuner. P2195 stuck lean b1/s1.. Turns out my CAI tube slipped off the throttle body!

I put it back on and tightened it up, and then I cleared the CEL and started the car. Now the idle with a/c on is rock solid but with a/c off it still feels a tiny bit unsteady although it could just be my nerves.

In summary I drove 14 mi in Houston with no air filtration on a car with 5400 miles. It wasn't a dusty night but I imagine the invisibly small silt grains are as dangerous as the visible stuff. I would like to hope that its no big deal but I suppose I'd better clean the TB and have the oil changed and possibly analyzed.. I just changed the dang oil 400 mi ago!

Can anyone with experience clue me in as to how concerned I should be?

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

Geology posted:

Can anyone with experience clue me in as to how concerned I should be?

Not really concerned unless you drove through a dust storm or something.

Longpig Bard
Dec 29, 2004



Air filtration is overrated http://www.google.com/imgres?hl=en&...39&tx=114&ty=77

Rabble
Dec 3, 2005

Pillbug

Geology posted:

Ugh.. I was out running errands today and when I started my car (2012 GT) the idle was very rough and it bogged down to 500rpm. The idle stabilized after a while in the parking lot so I drove 4 miles to get dinner. After dinner the same thing happened. I tested with the a/c on and off. With a/c on the idle seemed okay if a little low but with a/c off it bogged down and even stalled once! I decided to drive home with the a/c on. After driving for about 100 ft, the CEL came on. Now I'm thinking poo poo... Bama tune nightmare scenario. On the drive home I took it real easy and it felt fine but the idle was rough at stoplights. When I got home I checked the code with my SCT tuner. P2195 stuck lean b1/s1.. Turns out my CAI tube slipped off the throttle body!

I put it back on and tightened it up, and then I cleared the CEL and started the car. Now the idle with a/c on is rock solid but with a/c off it still feels a tiny bit unsteady although it could just be my nerves.

In summary I drove 14 mi in Houston with no air filtration on a car with 5400 miles. It wasn't a dusty night but I imagine the invisibly small silt grains are as dangerous as the visible stuff. I would like to hope that its no big deal but I suppose I'd better clean the TB and have the oil changed and possibly analyzed.. I just changed the dang oil 400 mi ago!

Can anyone with experience clue me in as to how concerned I should be?

Which brand of CAI do you have?

Geology
Nov 6, 2005

Rabble posted:

Which brand of CAI do you have?

C&L

I drive a BBW
Jun 2, 2008
Fun Shoe
Pulled the passenger head today and gasket looked fine, but now we are pretty sure it is the piston rings on the #3 cylinder. The piston had a lot of play, and I was able to take a .10 gauge guitar string and push it down past the ring about 2 inches. You could also shine a light down the cylinder and push on the ring and see one piece move and the other not.

So now the question is what to do. I could get the engine rebuilt, but from what I've read to get a 4.6 rebuilt the right way is going to cost a pretty penny.

The other option is I've got a buddy that has a wrecked '88 Fox. It's already got the GT40 heads, intake, and e-cam, which is what I will need to get the required power for the class I run in. It has a rebuilt T-5 tranny as well. He wants $1,000 for the whole car. It also has a 5 lug conversion on the rear.

From what I've read as far as parts that don't swap over, I will need a K-member and bell housing from a 94-95, new input shaft, and a few other odds and end parts that I can't remember. Will also have to do some re-wiring to get the gauges to work.

So any opinions? The other guys I race with think the 5.0 swap is the best way to go. It's a lot more work, but in the end will probably be cheaper than getting the 4.6 rebuilt. There aren't many people that race in this class that run mod motors, so most of them think the 5.0 swap is the better way to go.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

blk96gt posted:

So any opinions?

The 4.6 doesn't cost any more to rebuild than any other Ford v8. That said, you'll come out ahead swapping the 5.0 and selling the rest of the car to cover the additional parts you'll need.

I drive a BBW
Jun 2, 2008
Fun Shoe
Yeah I forgot to mention I would attempt to part the car out after I finished the conversion.

From everywhere I've read and the few other racers who run mod motors, it costs around $3-4k to get the engine rebuilt right. Finding the right shop to do it is another issue that I've read/heard about. I've heard of guys getting a 5.0 rebuilt for less than $1500 and the engine is running great after 5 years of racing.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

blk96gt posted:

Yeah I forgot to mention I would attempt to part the car out after I finished the conversion.

From everywhere I've read and the few other racers who run mod motors, it costs around $3-4k to get the engine rebuilt right. Finding the right shop to do it is another issue that I've read/heard about. I've heard of guys getting a 5.0 rebuilt for less than $1500 and the engine is running great after 5 years of racing.

That may have been true 10+ years ago, but it's not true anymore. Parts are plentiful and cheap these days.
Still, with the options you have you'd be better off with the pushrod engine.

lazer_chicken
May 14, 2009

PEW PEW ZAP ZAP
Unless you're going for big power (turbos) the 302 is superior to the 2-valve modular in just about every way.

I drive a BBW
Jun 2, 2008
Fun Shoe
Got a quote today to rebuild the 4.6. Only $4,461 out the door! That's if I take the engine out of the car and bring it to them.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

blk96gt posted:

Got a quote today to rebuild the 4.6. Only $4,461 out the door! That's if I take the engine out of the car and bring it to them.

You can get an MMR forged shortblock* for $1899, $1999 if you want a Ford Racing block.

*lovely website warning

HiddenReplaced
Apr 21, 2007

Yeah...
it's wanking time.


Just in case it's not clear from the picture, he's not even in a parking spot. He parks in the area where the little ramp is for rolling things onto the sidewalk. I'm kind of impressed how far someone will go just to get the point across that they're an rear end in a top hat.

A.o.D.
Jan 15, 2006

HiddenReplaced posted:



Just in case it's not clear from the picture, he's not even in a parking spot. He parks in the area where the little ramp is for rolling things onto the sidewalk. I'm kind of impressed how far someone will go just to get the point across that they're an rear end in a top hat.

So... he loaded up on every single option he could find but didn't want two more cylinders? (I'm assuming by the lack of gt badges tham I'm seeing a six-banger)

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Elephanthead
Sep 11, 2008


Toilet Rascal

HiddenReplaced posted:


Just in case it's not clear from the picture, he's not even in a parking spot. He parks in the area where the little ramp is for rolling things onto the sidewalk. I'm kind of impressed how far someone will go just to get the point across that they're an rear end in a top hat.

I would have him towed by the cops everyday.

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