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Totally TWISTED posted:Would you not obtain this same benefit by using non-dealer financing? i.e. a check from [YOUR LOCAL BANK] or [YOUR FINANCIAL INSTITUTION]? From what I understand cash/check/cashier's check are all the same to a dealership. If that makes any sense.
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Oct 12, 2012 20:13
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Any of you all familiar with paint issues? Basically the paint on the end of my FXT's roof rails (all four) is shot.  I was thinking of popping them off and getting a can of touch-up paint and rattle-canning them, but not really sure on how easy they are to get off and on, and if you can even repaint those plastic parts. Thoughts? Suggestions? I figure it can't end up any worse. DAT RAM fucked around with this message at 20:27 on Oct 12, 2012 |
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Oct 12, 2012 20:23
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Fudgesicko posted:Yeah, I don't have that much cash in savings to drop all at once. That and it seem the DC area dealerships are pricing these things real high. The price for the STi I spec is $38.8K MSRP with an invoice of $36.45K, so an out-the-door price of $38K seems pretty appealing to me right now. I got my '11 WRX (only option was the short shift kit) from Stohlman in Tysons for 24.5 plus tax/tags and $289 in BS fees, which was much better than anyone else would do. You could try them? I did order it.
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Oct 12, 2012 20:23
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Seat Safety Switch posted:If you're swapping the pan and putting a killer-B pickup in it already, why not throw in the killer-B baffle plate as well? That's what I did (don't tell the SCCA). Yep, it is going in too. Should start working on the 207 this weekend. The ecu got all dented in shipping, but it will probably still work.
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Oct 12, 2012 20:42
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War Bunny posted:I'm actually going through the same thing right now. (And did the same with my wife's new 4Runner). You'd think I'd be a pro by now. I'm glad that some people are able to get awesome deals (like kylej, seriously, that's awesome dude) but I've never been able to get a dealer to budge all that much. I was pretty proud of myself for getting them to give her an extra $500 for her trade-in and throw in a remote start. I'm sure if you did as Tusen did and walked in with a briefcase full of cash it would be a little easier to finagle a deal, but having 30 large in cash is a little difficult for most people. So you're trying to order a STi too? What kind of quotes are you getting? bull3964 posted:My dealership didn't even know until the day I picked up my car whether I was financing it or not. I'll have to look into that, but I honestly don't want to travel more than 50 miles from where I'm living to buy one. I've been doing all the negotiations so far via email although I did let it slip that I might be financing through the dealership, but now, I might just get a loan from the bank and bring a check with me. sanchez posted:I got my '11 WRX (only option was the short shift kit) from Stohlman in Tysons for 24.5 plus tax/tags and $289 in BS fees, which was much better than anyone else would do. You could try them? I did order it. I actually talked to Stohlman in Tysons. They quoted a OTD price of $38.4K and haven't replied to me when I said I found a better deal for $38K and if they could beat it. I did some math with the $36,183 price, with the doc fee of $500, it comes to $36,683. About $200 over invoice. No bad I suppose. Just a general question, but is it normal to get a final OTD price to be below the MSRP price? Edit - Just did some research, turns out there's no cap in how much a dealership can charge for "doc fees" in Va, and apparently the average is around $399 here. I have no clue why this dealership is charging $499. Fudgesicko fucked around with this message at 20:56 on Oct 12, 2012 |
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Oct 12, 2012 20:45
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DAT RAM posted:Any of you all familiar with paint issues?  I was thinking of doing the same thing with just flat black paint.Also, the locks on my crossbars that came with the car are seized and I've never been able to take them off. I guess I should figure that out first.
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Oct 12, 2012 21:08
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Fudgesicko posted:So you're trying to order a STi too? What kind of quotes are you getting? Basically right around msrp. I'm trying to get a limited sti, and it doesn't help that there isn't so much as a new wrx anywhere near where I live (east Tennessee). There are a few fairly close in NC, but I'd rather buy in state, as TN makes you make up the tax difference anyway. I've only talked to a couple of places, I guess since its not like its raining turbos they aren't going to want to cut a deal. Edit: I haven't asked about ordering a car from the factory in order to get the exact thing I want. Are dealers generally pretty good about doing this? I don't really know how it works. I have my goony dream of watching my dream car come in on the back of a truck with the plastic still on the hood 
War Bunny fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Oct 13, 2012 |
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Oct 12, 2012 22:11
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Got around to doing a compression test on my 99 OBS 5 spd. 210, 210, 195, 15, done with a fully warm engine, injector plugs disconnected, and throttle wide open. Burned valve or some other internal damage from a bad injector. Changed the injector and the cyl #3 misfire code went away, but its definitely bad. I got a complete engine from a 00 OBS automatic, anyone need any parts? I also have some misc parts from pulling apart other OBS models, I purchased many interior parts and have piles of clips, screws, window and door parts floating around. I have a spare driver's side window glass, window and power window/lock switches. Located south of San Jose, CA.
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Oct 12, 2012 22:11
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War Bunny posted:
Of course they can and will order a car for you from the factory. Just be prepared to wait a few months.
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Oct 13, 2012 02:17
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War Bunny posted:I'm glad that some people are able to get awesome deals (like kylej, seriously, that's awesome dude) but I've never been able to get a dealer to budge all that much. Yeah Manchester Subaru does crazy volume so they can offer deals. Gary Smith is the guy to talk to, he posts at NASIOC under the "Manchester Subaru" username. Gary autocrosses and does a bunch of other car poo poo, and apparently he's the number 1 WRX/STi salesperson in the country so he is allowed to offer pretty aggressive pricing. If anyone's in New England it's worth at least giving Gary a call and getting his price in writing (tell him you want NASIOC pricing) so you have it as a bargaining piece with your local dealer. War Bunny posted:Edit: I haven't asked about ordering a car from the factory in order to get the exact thing I want. Are dealers generally pretty good about doing this? I don't really know how it works. I have my goony dream of watching my dream car come in on the back of a truck with the plastic still on the hood Yeah you'll be waiting for sure if you deck it out the way you want. My base STi will take 8 weeks from the time I ordered til the time it arrives and it's plain jane. I asked about adding nav and they said it would add another 2 months in delivery time if I wanted one with custom options. :/
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Oct 13, 2012 02:48
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Yup, I bought my WRX from Gary in Manchester for super cheap. There was zero BS involved, totally worth the 8 hour round trip. He's got a fairly heavily modified STI.
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Oct 13, 2012 03:11
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kylej posted:
When'd you put the order in? I've been sitting on the price I quoted in my past post, I think I might go ahead and put an order through by the end of next week. Manchester Subaru is way too far for me to go and pick a car up, the price would have to be massively low.
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Oct 13, 2012 05:13
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daslog posted:If I take my 2.0 WRX motor and put in a 2.2 stroker kit, do I need to bring it to a tuner? Yes you would.
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Oct 13, 2012 05:49
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I'm trying to do everything reliability wise while the engine is out of the car, and part of that is I want to replace all the vacuum/boost hoses - is there a hose kit or should I just buy a long stretch of hose and cut pieces to fit? I know some are pre-bent so that wouldn't work for every one.
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Oct 13, 2012 06:12
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MrZig posted:I'm trying to do everything reliability wise while the engine is out of the car, and part of that is I want to replace all the vacuum/boost hoses - is there a hose kit or should I just buy a long stretch of hose and cut pieces to fit? I know some are pre-bent so that wouldn't work for every one. I have a set of mishimoto intercooler pipes that I won't be using. For the small stuff, I just used a silicone vacuum hose in a roll.
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Oct 13, 2012 06:14
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kylej posted:
Ouch. Well, I suppose that after ten years, I can wait a few months, as long a I know it's coming. Do they send you updates or anything? How does the money aspect of it work? Did you already put money down and start giving them monthly payments? War Bunny fucked around with this message at 10:30 on Oct 13, 2012 |
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Oct 13, 2012 10:28
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Just a quick question on drivetrain losses. I was chatting with my tuner who mentioned my car was putting out about 270-280 horses at the wheels when the previous owner had it tuned/tested. That got me wondering, with the awd and 5AT in the legacy gt how much power loss are we looking at between the crank and wheels? 30-35%?
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Oct 13, 2012 11:31
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War Bunny posted:Ouch. Well, I suppose that after ten years, I can wait a few months, as long a I know it's coming. Do they send you updates or anything? How does the money aspect of it work? Did you already put money down and start giving them monthly payments? From what I heard from the dealer, you negotiate the price before you order, make sure you get it in writing in case they try to screw you over when you go to pick it up. Once you decide how how much to pay, you put down a deposit, normally $500. The dealership will put an order in, you'll get a VON, once the car is being built, you'll receive an email or call with a VIN, once it's shipped out from Japan, you'll receive another notice, and another one when it arrives in the US. You don't actually sign contracts and start paying until after you take delivery of the car.
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Oct 13, 2012 14:34
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Also if you don't want the dealership to prep the car when it arrives you need to tell them that.
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Oct 13, 2012 15:46
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Totally TWISTED posted:Also if you don't want the dealership to prep the car when it arrives you need to tell them that. Good advice. They did mine when it came in (I didn't know any better) and was lucky that they did a good job, didn't eave swirls etc. Most late model subarus I've seen have that poo poo all over them, including the OBS in my garage.  Also tell them not to drill the front license plate holes. Might be worth reminding them closer to it getting to their facilities though.
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Oct 13, 2012 15:53
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Fudgesicko posted:When'd you put the order in? 3 weeks ago. War Bunny posted:Ouch. Well, I suppose that after ten years, I can wait a few months, as long a I know it's coming. Do they send you updates or anything? How does the money aspect of it work? Did you already put money down and start giving them monthly payments? Pretty much what Fudgesicko said. After you tell them what car you want they'll ask you what color you want. I was told to have one color that I really wanted, then two or three backup colors in case they couldn't get my first choice in time. I won't own a Subaru unless it's WRB so I told them just to put one color down. They'll charge a $500 deposit and you'll get a receipt and business card and yadda yadda. You don't have to start giving them monthly payments until the car is in your possession.
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Oct 13, 2012 17:41
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Thanks for the info. It's good to have first hand knowledge so I know a little what's going on before I talk to them about ordering the car. Is WRB ok at hiding minor scratches and swirls that I will accumulate between detailings? I had decided on white, mostly because I know that Subaru's paint seems to be easily scratched compared to other vehicles I've owned. So it's either white or WRB. I'd love black, but I've been down that road before. Too much hassle. Edit, thanks for the reminder on the front plate holes. We don't need front plates here, so no reason for them. I had already been thinking about skipping their detailers. My wife's truck came through looking pretty good, but there is a red Kia Optima that still has temp tags in our parking lot and it has horrific holograms all down the driver's side. War Bunny fucked around with this message at 00:23 on Oct 14, 2012 |
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Oct 14, 2012 00:19
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You will only get swirls from an incorrectly done cleaning/detailing. Not from in between those times.
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Oct 14, 2012 00:37
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Totally TWISTED posted:You will only get swirls from an incorrectly done cleaning/detailing. Not from in between those times. Maybe "swirls" is the wrong word for it. I'm talking about very, very light, straight-line scratches that are pretty much impossible to avoid washing a car bi-weekly between the sessions with the PC that are only about every 6-8 months or so. Likely when the wax starts to break down is when I'm picking them up. Most people wouldn't even notice them, but I do, and it drives me batty. I think WRB would probably hide imperfections better than the Newport Blue that my current Impreza is.
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Oct 14, 2012 01:07
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War Bunny posted:Maybe "swirls" is the wrong word for it. I'm talking about very, very light, straight-line scratches that are pretty much impossible to avoid washing a car bi-weekly between the sessions with the PC that are only about every 6-8 months or so. Likely when the wax starts to break down is when I'm picking them up. Most people wouldn't even notice them, but I do, and it drives me batty. I think WRB would probably hide imperfections better than the Newport Blue that my current Impreza is. I've seen a hand full of STI's in the Plasma Blue and they look pretty good in the sun. Dark Grey Metallic looks nice too...
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Oct 14, 2012 02:49
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Joinin' the club - already have my flannel. And whoever commented it was hard to find Subaru's in the Midwest is right. Considering I came here from Portland it took a while to find even this car. Fun so far though bone stock '11. 
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Oct 14, 2012 03:58
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Is there anything I should be concerned about with buying a vf52 that has been run with an EWG setup? The IWG actuator was removed and the flapper tack welded shut, but will be returned to stock setup before shipping. I don't know if this is a red flag that the turbo was beat up on or whatever. 
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Oct 14, 2012 13:24
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I'm thinking about using my Phase 1 EJ25 shortblock from the 98 RS and the Heads from the 99 RS that are SOHC. Basicly, SOHC heads from a phase 2 on a DOHC block (phase 1). This going to work? What headgaskets should I use? Where will my compression end up?
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Oct 14, 2012 14:06
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Owen Wilsons Nose posted:Is there anything I should be concerned about with buying a vf52 that has been run with an EWG setup? The IWG actuator was removed and the flapper tack welded shut, but will be returned to stock setup before shipping. That's a lot of oil on the fins there. The turbo probably needs to be fully rebuilt. And if they had wended the IWG flange, they should likely throw in a port-n-polish as well since I doubt the seal will be as good as it used to. Personally I'd go for a different one.
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Oct 14, 2012 16:09
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Thanks for the input. Guess I'll keep looking. I know I'm going to compromise buying used, but no point in buying something that needs to be rebuilt.
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Oct 14, 2012 17:07
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Amandyke posted:That's a lot of oil on the fins there. The turbo probably needs to be fully rebuilt. And if they had wended the IWG flange, they should likely throw in a port-n-polish as well since I doubt the seal will be as good as it used to. I don't think that is oil from the CHRA, maybe they sprayed it for rust. Oil would burn or at least very much darken, even at idle speeds.
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Oct 14, 2012 17:15
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Is there a reason you want an actual VF52? You could probably get something like a TD05h-18G from Blouch that would bolt on and have similar spool/power/cost, except with a warranty and free rebuilds, etc.
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Oct 14, 2012 19:08
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Well, I figured I could find one for $400-$600 bucks as a cheap upgrade for my 08 Spec.B. Going through the NASIOC forums, there seems to be a low mileage one for sale every few days as the wrx guys take them off right away(maybe there's a reason for this? lol). A 380XT(if this is closest to vf52) from Blouch is $1300.
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Oct 14, 2012 20:42
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blargle posted:Is there a reason you want an actual VF52? You could probably get something like a TD05h-18G from Blouch that would bolt on and have similar spool/power/cost, except with a warranty and free rebuilds, etc. In response to both this and the guy looking for a turbo for his legacy, you might as well look into some of the "in-between" turbos, especially if you're looking to go with anything bigger in the future. I got what I think is a pretty great deal on a Synergy turbo via FAT in Tempe, AZ, and I know they still have td06-20g's on clearance for $825 (I imagine the legacy model is roughly the same price - they were about $1200 brand new). The quality is of course nowhere near Blouch, and it is still journal bearing, but for that price and a 15k mile warranty on the turbo (and an option to use a non-IWG housing, so I don't have to worry about poorer turbine flow and the welds breaking), I view it as a good temporary turbo with a price comparable to what you'd get a very lightly used VF48 or VF52-sized turbo for (and you'd pay ~$1200-1300 new for one of those, still journal bearing, not meant for high pressure). I'm running 15-16 psi and making 323whp/320tq on 91 octane (17-18 psi sport# yields 342/340), with full boost at around 3800 rpm - and I asked for just about the most conservative tune possible to maximize the life of my motor while I save for a more serious build for the track. It's a nice setup, in that I will almost always be in the very high efficiency range of the turbo and am only sacrificing about 700 rpm in spool for a top end that will not taper (until we push more like 24-26 psi). I will say, it is a noisy turbo, but for a strictly "for-fun" and experimenting car, I don't care as long as I'm not making tons of noise at cruise and idle. The other nice thing: my cylinder by cylinder knock numbers right now are literally identical to my 20-22 psi VF48 E85 tune, and are even better if I mix to 93-95 octane - my EGT's are more than 150 degrees F cooler at peak load and same as E85 while cruising. I'm actually wondering why people don't do a highly detuned bigger turbo more often, since it seems to me that everything is much less stressed while sacrificing only a small amount of spool. BobTheFerret fucked around with this message at 05:30 on Oct 15, 2012 |
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Oct 14, 2012 21:03
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daslog posted:I'm thinking about using my Phase 1 EJ25 shortblock from the 98 RS and the Heads from the 99 RS that are SOHC. The sohc heads have bigger combustion chambers, so it'll lower your compression. The sohc headgasket is a bit thinner, so I'd use that. Just make sure the pistons don't hit the heads when you turn the engine over, some engines have pistons that clear the deck. I can't remember which ones, make sure yours isn't one. Technically, the right way to do it is to swap in the pistons that match the heads. But that's a pita, and unless you re-use the rings, new rings won't wear into worn cyl walls, so you'd need a hone, it goes downhill from there. DOHC blocks aren't as good, but if yours is working, slap the heads on and call it good.
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Oct 14, 2012 21:15
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BobTheFerret posted:I'm running 14-16 psi and making over 330whp/360 tq on 91 octane, with full boost at around 3800 rpm - and I asked for just about the most conservative tune possible to maximize the life of my motor while I save for a more serious build for the track. How are those numbers even possible at such a low pressure. I'm at 18.5psi with my hta68 and making 280whp/305tqs on 91 octane with 8.9:1 pistons.
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Oct 14, 2012 21:26
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Amandyke posted:How are those numbers even possible at such a low pressure. I'm at 18.5psi with my hta68 and making 280whp/305tqs on 91 octane with 8.9:1 pistons. You need to get a better tuner.
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Oct 14, 2012 21:39
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Amandyke posted:How are those numbers even possible at such a low pressure. I'm at 18.5psi with my hta68 and making 280whp/305tqs on 91 octane with 8.9:1 pistons. I'm wondering that too. Dynos vary I guess. At 20 psi with my FP HTA Green I'm making only 353whp/348tq on pump 93.
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Oct 14, 2012 21:43
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Roman Rambo posted:I'm wondering that too. Dynos vary I guess. At 20 psi with my FP HTA Green I'm making only 353whp/348tq on pump 93. Very true - I'm guessing my dyno (mustang dyno) is setup with a dynojet style correction factor, since the numbers and feel are comparable to my old tune (342/360 on a VF48 on E85). My 20g is obviously not quite so big as the green, but the maximum efficient flow rate is ~44 lb/min (which matches the numbers I end up with I think, since the expectation I have is about 7.8 whp/(lb/min flow). Correct me if that's wrong though, for sure) In response to Amandyke: my understanding is, you can have huge power off of very low pressure - it's all about flow rate, which is function of FI features (turbo/supercharger size, efficiency range), engine displacement, and volumetric efficiency. If I'm making the same flow rate at much lower outlet temperature, I can safely run more timing and in effect make more power from lower boost pressure. Likewise, you can keep boost constant and improve volumetric efficiency and as a result end up with a higher flow rate (and more power; ex: downpipe, EWG). I do have a higher boost setting for 18 psi mapped to sport sharp, pushes things up to 343whp/343tq, but the difference is small enough that I don't see myself using it very often. I will be doing a virtual dyno test on the road once I get an exhaust leak cleared up, so I'll have a sure comparison with my old VF48 tune - I think that will be the easiest way to quantify the change. I also have a ton of supporting modifications, so that's something to keep in mind. P&L Intake/larger MAF sensor Fully heat-tape wrapped larger tmic (Spearco) TGV deletes 1000CC injectors (with a DW 300 pump) Turboxs uppipe and downpipe 44mm tial external wastegate (vent to atmosphere - this makes a HUGE difference in power, especially on a larger turbo, since it can essentially act like an exhaust cutout. Take a look at dyno comparisons with this and you'll get an idea of what a difference it can make) BobTheFerret fucked around with this message at 05:30 on Oct 15, 2012 |
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Oct 14, 2012 22:07
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kylej posted:You need to get a better tuner. To be fair, he does -15% correction to match with what his road tune software shows him. So had I remembered that I probably wouldn't have made the post as my numbers on someone else's dyno would be 322whp/350tq. BobTheFerret posted:44mm tial external wastegate (vent to atmosphere - this makes a HUGE difference in power, especially on a larger turbo, since it can essentially act like an exhaust cutout. Take a look at dyno comparisons with this and you'll get an idea of what a difference it can make) Sadly California makes fun mods either difficult or expensive (tickets, ref's etc) Do you happen to have a dyno sheet Bob? Amandyke fucked around with this message at 04:07 on Oct 15, 2012 |
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Oct 15, 2012 04:05
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