|
Shimrod posted:Its something Rossi came up with ages ago and is used as a way to freak out the other riders. (I think). I thought it was a bit more air resistance. That leg ain't doin' any more shiftin' better use it as an air brake!
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2012 15:23
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 7, 2024 12:08 |
|
|
Linedance posted:I've just been watching a little MotoGP, and a lot of riders stick their leg out almost dirt-bike/sumo style before they get to the corner. They put their foot back on the peg and do the normal knee down thing in the corner. What's the deal with that? Just balancing the bike or something? Supposed to alter c of g under braking and then also help shift bodyweight into the corner at turn in.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2012 16:17
|
|
|
AncientTV posted:
I ride a 2010 ninja 250. Thanks for the Googling!
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2012 16:24
|
|
|
KozmoNaut posted:I think Cornelius has mentioned it a couple of times as well, that sounds like his usual method of adjusting carbs. Ah, I was wrong, it was indeed Cornelius. XYLOPAGUS posted:I ride a 2010 ninja 250. Thanks for the Googling!  The screw with the yellow stripe in the middle.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2012 18:21
|
|
|
The last few times Ive ridden, when Ive stopped and got off the bike a few seconds later theres been a scraping/clunk noise. I originally though it was the side stand moving a bit on the ground as the bike settled. I figured out today that its actually a bolt catching on the hugger as you can see in the pic:  Ive only really been riding this bike for 6 months and it had a chunk out of the hugger when I got, so it seem that this has been happening for a while, although the new noise has only show up in the last week or so. What does this mean? Its an aftermarket hugger - is it just a rubbish one, or could it be something up with the rear suspension? (1998/F3 ZX6R by the way)
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2012 18:36
|
|
|
grunthaas posted:The last few times Ive ridden, when Ive stopped and got off the bike a few seconds later theres been a scraping/clunk noise. I originally though it was the side stand moving a bit on the ground as the bike settled. I figured out today that its actually a bolt catching on the hugger as you can see in the pic: you mean at the side of it where the hydraulic line goes into the shock reservoir and is clearly rubbing off it?
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2012 18:42
|
|
|
I'd space the shock reservoir out slightly more with some washers or rubber or something and then see if the sound goes away.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2012 19:24
|
|
|
Yep, when Id looked at it before it seemed a lot further away. Kind of looked like you'd need to have loads of weight on the bike for the bolt to get anywhere near the hugger, but that pic is from today after a ride with no weight on the bike. The shock reservoir is on a plastic/rubber mount, so it must be getting pushed to the side then the bolt catches.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2012 19:25
|
|
|
Saga posted:Supposed to alter c of g under braking and then also help shift bodyweight into the corner at turn in. You can also use it when backing-in on the back brake to save it if you overcook it, although you'd have to be pretty lucky not to just rip your leg off. TBH I think it's main advantage is stopping some cheeky bastard out-braking you. The corners they use the technique on (slow entry after a long straight) are almsot inevitably
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2012 00:28
|
|
|
AncientTV posted:Ah, I was wrong, it was indeed Cornelius. You spoke my name and awoke me from the dead. You will regret this. Now ask me about bench-synchronizing carburetors with Rizla
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2012 00:50
|
|
|
Sir Cornelius posted:You spoke my name and awoke me from the dead. Please tell me more about bench synching carbs with weed paper.
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2012 03:40
|
|
|
Sir Cornelius posted:You spoke my name and awoke me from the dead. Now I'm going to get sage advice concerning the purchase of any '70s RD in the form of a thinly veiled rant/insult train, halp 
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2012 03:55
|
|
|
n8r posted:Before you get all exciting about synching the carbs is it exhibiting any characteristics of needing it? I wouldn't even bother doing a valve adjustment until it becomes hard to start. If he adjusts the valves, then he needs to do the carb synch. Changing the valve clearances affects the intake vacuum, so carbs that were in synch before, will not be after the adjustment. Sure, he could skip that step and just see if there are symptoms prompting a carb synch (e.g., engine vibration issues, funky sounding idle, etc.), but why gently caress around? If you are only adjusting the valves and not disrupting the carb slides/butterflies, then you can probably skip bench synching them with cig paper. Just do a vacuum synch.
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2012 17:14
|
|
|
Has anyone replaced a stator on a Honda Shadow before, and if so what do you recommend? I'm seeing prices range from $90 new on eBay, to $140 on motosport.com, and $320 on cheapcycleparts.com. I'm still having charging problems after replacing the stock regulator with a Mosfet R/R and having the battery load tested, and the only thing that leaves is the stator. I tested the three wires out of it and I get 6v, 6v, and 4v and I should be at 6 across the board. I didn't think 4v would be enough to make a difference, but I was wrong. I'm charging my battery at about 11.7v after replacing the regulator, up from 9v, but it should be between 12v and 14v. I'm also having a problem with my left turn signal. The front turn signals run normally as running lights; the rears do not. When I flip my switch to turn left, the front turns off and the rear does not blink. When I reset it, the front comes back on and the rear does not. Turning right causes no issues. I'm thinking it is the turn signal relay, since it dies as soon as I try to turn it on, but I don't really know how to test that short of just replacing the turn signal relay and crossing my fingers.
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2012 17:45
|
|
|
americanzero4128 posted:Has anyone replaced a stator on a Honda Shadow before, and if so what do you recommend? I'm seeing prices range from $90 new on eBay, to $140 on motosport.com, and $320 on cheapcycleparts.com. I'm still having charging problems after replacing the stock regulator with a Mosfet R/R and having the battery load tested, and the only thing that leaves is the stator. I tested the three wires out of it and I get 6v, 6v, and 4v and I should be at 6 across the board. I didn't think 4v would be enough to make a difference, but I was wrong. I'm charging my battery at about 11.7v after replacing the regulator, up from 9v, but it should be between 12v and 14v. Signal relays cost about $7 at autozone and plug right in, replace and cross fingers is not a bad move. Your symptoms sound like a wiring or switch problem though. That left switch is crossing with your running light feed somehow, turning the running light into a switched light. If the signal relay failed, you'd have bad results (no blinks, weak blinks, etc.) on both sides I think. Of course, you have self-canceling signals (e.g. "When I reset it, . . . " So the canceling unit might be tripping things up. I got nothing on self-canceling.
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2012 18:01
|
|
|
Tire Q's: My MZ Skorpion Sport comes stock with a 110/70 front tire. It's getting to be replacing time soon. Any good tires that are available in that size? I came up with the Pilot Power and the Conti Attack SM. I actually like having a front tire of this size, but has anybody gone from 110 to 120 and have thoughts on the size change? My riding is 90% twisties and 10% highway right now, basically no commuting.
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2012 19:13
|
|
|
What size is the front rim? If it's a 3.5 inch, at 120 would fit fine on there with no problems with the profile. If it's a 3 inch, I'd probably stick with the 110. I'd go PP in your shoes over the sumo tire which is built for lighter bikes.
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2012 19:29
|
|
|
Does anyone make a 2-pole solid-state flasher unit? My old hot-metal relay is acting up again and I want to replace it with something more reliable, but no matter how much I google around, everything I can find is the 3-pole variant. I can think how to build a 2-pole flasher with an RC circuit, inverter and a power MOSFET or something, but I'd just as soon buy a manufactured unit if such a thing exists.
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2012 19:34
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:Does anyone make a 2-pole solid-state flasher unit? My old hot-metal relay is acting up again and I want to replace it with something more reliable, but no matter how much I google around, everything I can find is the 3-pole variant. I can think how to build a 2-pole flasher with an RC circuit, inverter and a power MOSFET or something, but I'd just as soon buy a manufactured unit if such a thing exists. Any damned Autozone/Oreilley's will have something like that. It's about $13-25, depending. I know - I have purchased many two-prong solid-state flashers for when I convert motorcycles to LEDs, as some LED setups won't trigger thermal flashers.
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2012 19:47
|
|
|
Tamir Lenk posted:Signal relays cost about $7 at autozone and plug right in, replace and cross fingers is not a bad move. Thanks. Does it not matter that the relay isn't for a motorcycle then? If that's the case I'll pick one up and work on it this weekend, since according to the manual the gas tank has to come off to get to the relay. I read that the turn signal switch goes out on these bikes, but I didn't think it was that since the right turn signal still works. I think I'll try to track down the turn signal switch assembly as well and see what kind of a pain it will be to replace that as well. Really weird, my bike had sat for a week, maybe two, it worked before I parked it, and after I parked it, it stopped working. My motorcycle is getting loving expensive to fix. Edit - just ordered a new stator, $140 with free shipping and I'll have it by Thursday. Unfortunately I won't be able to get a new turn signal switch by this weekend, so I might try taking it apart and seeing if there's anything I can do, clean up connections, make sure there's no uninsulated wires, all that good stuff. Maybe I can get out without having to spend $75 on the turn signal switch poo poo. americanzero4128 fucked around with this message at 22:16 on Oct 15, 2012 |
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2012 20:12
|
|
|
FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:Tire Q's: They may be being or may have already been phased out, but both the Dunlop GPR Alpha/Alfa/AL-10 (no-one can seem to agree on this, possibly because they use the Greek alpha on the tyre?) and BT090 are sports tyres designed for lightweight, lower-powered road bikes. E.g. 400 race reps. BT090 definitely still available in 110. e.g. http://www.oponeo.co.uk/moto-tyre/dunlop-gpr-alfa-10 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dunlop-GPR-AL-10F-120-70-R-17-front-motorcycle-tyre-Free-fit-wheel-Leeds-/310359807212 e: my NC23 came with a set of the Alpha 10s - very good rubber and worked extremely well on track. Especially when you consider the bike was designed in the 1980s and still had the original 18" rear. Saga fucked around with this message at 20:15 on Oct 15, 2012 |
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2012 20:12
|
|
|
Geirskogul posted:Any damned Autozone/Oreilley's will have something like that. It's about $13-25, depending. I know - I have purchased many two-prong solid-state flashers for when I convert motorcycles to LEDs, as some LED setups won't trigger thermal flashers. Huh, I tried Autozone and the people there acted like I was asking for a flux capacitor. I'll keep looking around I guess, but it seems really bizarre that I can't find one for sale online, either.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2012 05:50
|
|
|
I'm confused. Also, Autozone.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2012 11:29
|
|
|
Geirskogul posted:Also, Autozone. To be fair, if you put in any zip code that comes up as a "Special Order Only" item, not available in-store.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2012 12:55
|
|
|
All you need is something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Technologies-Flasher-Relay-Electronic-24-0001/dp/B000WPEYFA/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_21 or this  http://www.amazon.com/Terminal-Signal-Flasher-Switch-Electronic/dp/B004O1YTLW/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1 Dunno about the AutoZone site, but in the store they are in the aisle with fuses and poo poo. $10 and your done.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2012 15:52
|
|
|
AncientTV posted:Now I'm going to get sage advice concerning the purchase of any '70s RD in the form of a thinly veiled rant/insult train, halp Sage advise about '70s RDs is "Don't". The good RDs are 350 and 500 '80-83 and LCII YPVS. While you twist your brain and really consider asking me why that is a fact, I'll try to figure out an appropriate insult and/or insult-train 
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2012 18:19
|
|
|
That's apt, because I know nothing of RDs beyond that they're two-stroke and apparently very entertaining. I guess if I ever get one, I'll now know what years to look for  edit: That kind of disclaimer needs to come before I watch an hours worth of old racing vids vvv AncientTV fucked around with this message at 20:19 on Oct 16, 2012 |
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2012 18:24
|
|
|
You mean you'll know which years aren't available in the states 
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2012 18:53
|
|
|
Sir Cornelius posted:Sage advise about '70s RDs is "Don't". Aircooled RD's are still awesome 
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2012 20:20
|
|
|
Jim Silly-Balls posted:Aircooled RD's are still awesome This is not a question about awesome. Awesome isn't good enough when something is More Awesomer(tm) Z3n posted:You mean you'll know which years aren't available in the states Dang. A bit of research tells me you are correct. Silly Americans. I guess the 60Hp RD350 fun is out of the question for you then. However, it seems like the second best, the 50Hp Brazilian made 1984 RD350R YPVS LCII is available in the US. The only thing that differs from the Japanese/European 1983 is the weight (just throw the fairing to hell), the ECU (get an EU ecu, yeah 60Hp) and the kind of lovely steel used for the frame (reinforce lower left corner of the engine cage). 
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2012 09:26
|
|
|
Z3n posted:You mean you'll know which years aren't available in the states Damnit.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2012 10:17
|
|
|
My friend's buddy at work is a machinist. He told him that anything I want machined for my bike, its mine. So aside from everything, what would look cool/still be safe made out of billet or possibly titanium? I was thinking of the rear brake lever and shifter, possibly the triple trees? Every time I see the guy I feel bad because he excitedly asks if there's anything I want made for it and I never have good ideas. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2012 15:23
|
|
|
Bucephalus posted:Damnit. Relax now. The '84 R should be available just about every where. The Brazilian factory that produced them, spit them out like bees.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2012 15:27
|
|
|
Dzus posted:My friend's buddy at work is a machinist. He told him that anything I want machined for my bike, its mine. So aside from everything, what would look cool/still be safe made out of billet or possibly titanium? I was thinking of the rear brake lever and shifter, possibly the triple trees? What kind of bike?
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2012 15:36
|
|
|
Tamir Lenk posted:What kind of bike? 1984 Honda VF500F. I don't think he can machine a magical "Make it work" button though.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2012 15:43
|
|
|
Get him to make you some rearsets to start with...sit on the bike, figure out where your feet would feel most natural, and have him make something that moves the pegs to there.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2012 15:47
|
|
|
Z3n posted:Get him to make you some rearsets to start with...sit on the bike, figure out where your feet would feel most natural, and have him make something that moves the pegs to there. gently caress yes, this. If you are doing any frame or style mods (e.g., cafe, bobber, etc.), get him to make loads of stuff like seat pans, electrics trays, etc.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2012 16:14
|
|
|
Forgive my ignorance here, by rearsets, you mean the upside down black googly boogly bracket thing here: I'm not sure I really want to change the riding position, I can grip the tank pretty comfortably with my knees as it stands,and shifting them back would only seem to interfere with the exhaust, so they'd have to go up as well. I was thinking of having him redo the brackets. I only have a spare one of the right side, though. Maybe I'll send these with him and see what the guy says.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2012 16:24
|
|
|
Dzus posted:Forgive my ignorance here, by rearsets, you mean the upside down black googly boogly bracket thing here: Yeah those. You can have him make "downsets" too, which is a popular mod among the older crowd on sportbikes.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2012 17:14
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 7, 2024 12:08 |
|
|
You should get him to make you some totally badass brake and clutch levers with, like, big metal scythes on them, and spikes and poo poo. And a tailgunner exhaust, except the barrels are all skulls. (whatever you get him to make, do toss him a six-pack or something after every job, cause that's definitely a relationship you want to keep up. especially if he can source and work with exotic metals like titanium.)
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2012 18:13
|
|