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Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

TrueChaos posted:

Interesting, because it seems like everyone tends to run a bigger front bar (Either the RB 1.125in tubular or the FM solid) with stock (11-12mm bar) or MSM bar (14mm), for both autox and track. From those I`ve talked to, it seems to bring the handling a bit more neutral. Some people disconnect the rear bar for autox.

The one I drove definitely didn't understeer... I managed to get it to swap ends on me, I didn't realize how much more speed I was carrying with the suspension setup.

You would have to drive the same car with, then without one to notice any difference. When I did it with my car at the time the front end wanted to push noticeably more than usual. However, I did not remove the rear bar so maybe that had something to do with it too. I did it as an experiment at the Gap, the shop owner I worked for gave me a front bar (I think it was the RB) told me I wouldn't like it and he was right. After one run I took it back off. YMMV.

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Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
If you have anything that resembles a suspension:

Autox:
Big rear end bar in the front
Nothing in the rear

Track:
Big rear end bar in the front
No bigger than a 14mm in the rear

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




I had an RB solid up front, no rear and 450/300 springs and it felt pretty neutral. And I tracked it, not autox. :shrug:

Use that calculator/excel sheet on FCM's site to see the effects.

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy
Sorry to hear you guys are being bothered about cars on your own property. I had my other car stand in my parants' driveway in an upper-middle class area for a year (with plates, but not insured. oops) without anyone saying a word.

So today I got up at like 1 in the afternoon, cooked and ate lunch, thinking about a nice weekend drive ahead of me, when I finally opened the blinds :stare:



gently caress me. I've been putting of the winter tires until next week, and now I probably wouldn't even make it out of the parking spot (it's on an incline). I was going to get some 14" wheels, but is there an easy way to verify if I have sport brakes, or do I just measure the rotor size?

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

So I'd like to take a poll on what I should do with my '95 Miata. It has rusted rockers (see pics earlier in thread), and I was going to fix it but lately I've been thinking that maybe I should just sell it and buy another Miata with good rockers (maybe a NB). I only paid 3k for it and was planning a simple patch and then painting the rockers black, nothing fancy like matching paint or anything. Pros are it's a PEP with a very clean interior and I just put new Azenis on it. Cons are the rockers are rusted. Fix it or sell it?

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




There's too many miatas with good rockers to justify fixing it yourself. I'd put some lovely used tires on it and save your better ones for the next one.

dpidz0r
Jul 29, 2012

Seat Safety Switch posted:

Unfortunately no original key. Oddly enough the key only turns the ignition one way - sometimes I have to flip it over to start the car.

I thought it was maybe a quirk but now that I think about it almost all car keys should be symmetrical.

Perhaps I'll stop by the dealership and see if they can cut me a new key from the VIN?
Extrapolating from my (limited) knowledge of normal keys: Look closely at your car key and see if you notice any places along the ridges where it's scratched more than elsewhere. That would indicate a point where it's a little too high and hanging up on the pins as you insert it. You might be able to fix it with a few swipes from a file, or you might make it stop working entirely. YMMV, but it's probably worth a shot (assuming you have a working spare) before you let the dealer charge you an arm and a leg for an entirely new set.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

I used to work at a Mazda dealer and made keys from VIN's all the time. It's not expensive at all.

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.

Pillbug
Unfortunately I don't have a spare key. I'm guessing it will be about $10-20, so not a huge deal.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

I just ordered a pair of new keys from https://www.onlinemazdaparts.com he cut them for free and they were something like $10 each. Just supplied the VIN when ordered.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003

opengl128 posted:

I just ordered a pair of new keys from https://www.onlinemazdaparts.com he cut them for free and they were something like $10 each. Just supplied the VIN when ordered.

This seems like an easy way to steal a Mazda that's parked regularly :3:

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.

Pillbug

opengl128 posted:

I just ordered a pair of new keys from https://www.onlinemazdaparts.com he cut them for free and they were something like $10 each. Just supplied the VIN when ordered.
Where do you see that? All I can find are the door lock cylinders and the chip key mentioned in the FAQ.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Sockington posted:

This seems like an easy way to steal a Mazda that's parked regularly :3:

I emailed ahead of time asking if I needed to provide any kind of proof of ownership. Nope, just the VIN. I think it's weird too, but eh.

Seat Safety Switch posted:

Where do you see that? All I can find are the door lock cylinders and the chip key mentioned in the FAQ.

Search for FD0176201, and supply your VIN at checkout.

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.

Pillbug
Ordered, thanks. Shipping to Canada was on the steep side so hopefully it actually ends up being way less than quoted.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003

Seat Safety Switch posted:

Ordered, thanks. Shipping to Canada was on the steep side so hopefully it actually ends up being way less than quoted.

If it's too ridiculous, you could always PM me and I could bring it over the border for you ;)

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.

Pillbug

Sockington posted:

If it's too ridiculous, you could always PM me and I could bring it over the border for you ;)
Good idea. I actually screwed up my order so I'll be in touch.

edit: I just went out for a blast in the snow with it. My first startup it stalled out even though I had it in neutral with the clutch in, second startup it fired to life on the first crank and returned to idle just fine. :iiam: Oil pressure gauge goes to 0 when I turn the car off now, but is otherwise above maximum even when the engine is cold. I'll check grounding.

Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Oct 28, 2012

saint gerald
Apr 17, 2003
This is not actually a 10th Anniversary Edition, is it?

http://www.importcarsrus.com/1999-Mazda-MX5Miata/Used-Convertible/Lawrenceburg-KY/0/2266648/Details.aspx

Jean Eric Burn
Nov 10, 2007

No, last 6 digits of the vin are like 125xxx-132xxx on the 10ae. Also it's black and doesn't have the body kit. And na6 wheels for some reason.

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
And it's not blue.

saint gerald
Apr 17, 2003
That's what I thought. Maybe they'll be prepared to negotiate down a couple of grand based on that. Maybe pigs will fly, too. It does seen to be priced rather above the odds.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

I've always wondered what daisies on a NB would look like.

Looks wrong.

Hog Obituary
Jun 11, 2006
start the day right
This moderately interesting thing showed up on Craigslist:
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/3371374183.html
No photos


quote:

Track Prepared 1999 Miata - $9800 (Sacramento area)
Date: 2012-10-28, 4:31PM PDT

1999 Miata, black with red hardtop and black cloth interior. Clean title, no accidents, no fender benders. The car is street legal and registered in California. The Miata is used to take spirited drives in the foothills and is driven on race tracks in Northern California several times a year. The car is in good condition inside and out with a nice stereo system.

The car has numerous suspension and engine performance upgrades performed by Marc Hoover, Hoover Speed Motorsports in Cameron Park, CA. He is one of the top Miata race car drivers and mechanics in the area. With the upgraded and modified engine, the car would be a prime candidate for supercharging or turbo-charging. And, with minor modifications the Miata would be a prime candidate for racing in the various SCCA or NASA classes. The Miata is fast and was dyno'd at 145 HP which is considerably more than stock.

The car has 113,593 miles but many of the upgrades noted below were completed at 104,800 miles and 112,900 miles. I love this car and it is a lot of fun to drive on the street and on the track. I am selling the car because I purchased a 1972 Porsche 911 and I have limited garage space.

Engine Performance Upgrades:
Engine upgraded from 1.8 liters to just under 2.0 liters
Polished and ported the cylinder head
JE pistons 3.270 bore size
Carrilo A Beam connecting rods
1.0 mm oversized intake and exhaust valves
Hydraulic lifter valve springs
Lightened, balanced, and surfaced flywheel
Racing clutch
Replace clutch master and slave cylinders
Exede engine management unit

Brake and Suspension Upgrades and Maintenance:
Stainless steel brake lines
Hawk brake pads (performance and blue)
JIC FLT TAR 15-way mono-tube coil over shocks 700 pound springs in front and 300 pound springs in back (very close to Spec Miata spring rates)
Racing Beat anti-sway bars front and back
Flyin' Miata and Racing Beat drop links
New wheel hubs and wheel bearing
New brake rotors
New Hawk brake pads
4-15" x 7" Enki lightweight wheels with Hoosiers A6 225 x 15"

Exhaust System Upgrades:
Racing Beat Stainless Steel Header
Racing Beat mid pipe
Roadster Sport lightweight muffler

Other Upgrades:
Hard Dog Hardcore roll bar
New battery
Upgraded heavy duty alternator
Water pump
Large capacity racing radiator
New timing belt
Limited slip differential
Car is corner balanced
Hard top (the red hard top could use some fresh paint as it is slightly faded)
Corbeau Racing seat (red and black)
Williams 4-point sport belts (lap belt plus two shoulder belts--red and black)

Spares that go with the car:
Two OEM black fabric driver's seats
OEM exhaust and Cats
OEM anti-sway bars
OEM wheels and tires
4 Hoosier R6 205 x 15" (slightly used)

As you can appreciate, the car has more than $20,000 of upgrades and modifications. The upgrades to the engine alone are about $15,000. I do not expect to get these investments back and have priced the car at $9,800. The price is negotiable. Make an offer. I can work with you on the price. For information, contact Paul at 916-933-1898 or prichins at jps dot net

Searches: race car, track car, Miata, spec Miata

But seriously, who the hell spends $15k on a Miata engine for 145hp?

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
Hi. :negative:

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


Welp it looks like I'll be posting in this thread more often...


Bought winter.mute's 1991 SE last night. Mad at myself for not buying one sooner. Drove it most of the way home with the top down despite it being 50 degrees or so.

destructo
Apr 29, 2006

TrueChaos posted:

Drove a friends miata at the last autox that had KYB AGX's, GC sleeves, and 350/250 springs. He's selling the setup for $500 to upgrade to Xidas. I really liked the way his setup felt compared to my sock stuff, and I'm considering buying it. What are people's general thoughts?
Not a terrible deal as the GC sleeves are $400 new as is, AGXs suck though.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




destructo posted:

Not a terrible deal as the GC sleeves are $400 new as is, AGXs suck though.

That was kinda my thinking. Unknown KM's on the AGX's - the setup was on the car when he bought it 50,000 km's ago. I won't be able to afford it until February though, so unless they're still available then, it's a moot point.

dpidz0r
Jul 29, 2012
Lately I've been having a lot of trouble shitfing into second in the first 5 minutes or so of driving. I didn't even realize how bad it's gotten until I drove my dads car yesterday. My plan was to throw some redline in there this weekend, but I did some googling and have been finding a ton of conflicting info about 2001 six speed transmissions. Some really convincing posts claimed that redline is useless for the six speed and to use motorcraft instead, but then there are tons of replies to those posts (that may or may not have understood that the subject is 6s and not 5s) claiming that redline worked fine for them. Does anyone have any experience with either redline or motorcraft in a six speed have any input?

NitroSpazzz posted:

Drove it most of the way home with the top down despite it being 50 degrees or so.
Yeah, I make it a point to keep the top down as much as possible. I even keep a couple of scarves and hats in the glovebox now that it's getting colder (and by colder I mean not 80 degrees anymore, this being san diego). People who drive with the top up when it's 75 degrees and partly cloudy make me sad.

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
I've heard good things about AMSoil in the trans and diff. Go browse around on miataturbo, just look for hustler drunkposting.

Flesh Croissant
Apr 23, 2010

by FactsAreUseless
I use GM Synchromesh, works great for me, is redline really a big improvement?


dpidz0r posted:

People who drive with the top up when it's 75 degrees and partly cloudy make me sad.

Worse, people who buy gigantic wind blockers and drive with the windows up. WHY THE HELL DID YOU BUY A CONVERTIBLE IF WIND BOTHERS YOU SO MUCH!? :fuckoff:

Flesh Croissant fucked around with this message at 04:17 on Oct 31, 2012

becoming
Aug 25, 2004

mattdizzleZ28 posted:

Worse, people who buy gigantic wind blockers and drive with the windows up. WHY THE HELL DID YOU BUY A CONVERTIBLE IF WIND BOTHERS YOU SO MUCH!? :fuckoff:



I used to feel this way, maybe for the first year that I owned mine. Now I just don't care. If that's how they want to use their car, what do I care? Maybe they just wanted a two-seater with a huge sunroof that handles like a roller skate and this was the best compromise they could find. I don't know and I don't care.

Also, as someone who has exceedingly sensitive skin and burns very easily, there is a perfectly good reason to have the roof up during a sunny day. Now, during a nice night...

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
I worry about the hearing loss from cruising around at speed. Having the windows up reduces the decibels a bit.

Flesh Croissant
Apr 23, 2010

by FactsAreUseless
I can confirm being a 26 year old (sorta) deaf guy after 2 years of miata driving. Maybe i should invest in some earplugs.

(or wear my gigantic green old David-clark headset.)

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

mattdizzleZ28 posted:

Worse, people who buy gigantic wind blockers and drive with the windows up. WHY THE HELL DID YOU BUY A CONVERTIBLE IF WIND BOTHERS YOU SO MUCH!? :fuckoff:



It actually helps a lot at interstate speeds. Ever drive 80+ with the top down and no wind blocker for any length of time? Yeah it sucks, and so does riding with the top up, so a wind blocker solves the extreme wind noise/buffeting at those speeds. Putting the windows up helps even more, and if it's chilly helps keep the heat in the car.

Previa_fun
Nov 10, 2004

mattdizzleZ28 posted:

I can confirm being a 26 year old (sorta) deaf guy after 2 years of miata driving. Maybe i should invest in some earplugs.

(or wear my gigantic green old David-clark headset.)

Is this a valid concern? I spent a two hour interstate ride with the top down at 75-80 mph on at least one occasion. It was loud but bearable at the time. I've also played drums for a decade and while I try to wear earplugs when just banging around in the garage I have sat through a few band rehearsal sessions without protection. I guess I know why I can't hear the "mosquito" ringtone anymore, though.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

never mind

Hog Obituary
Jun 11, 2006
start the day right
Yeah, I had a miata in spite of it being a convertible, not because it was a convertible. I'm really an indoor person.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Previa_fun posted:

Is this a valid concern? I spent a two hour interstate ride with the top down at 75-80 mph on at least one occasion. It was loud but bearable at the time. I've also played drums for a decade and while I try to wear earplugs when just banging around in the garage I have sat through a few band rehearsal sessions without protection. I guess I know why I can't hear the "mosquito" ringtone anymore, though.

Yeah, it's a real effect:
http://wheels.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/01/04/as-convertible-tops-drop-risk-of-hearing-loss-rises/

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
That article doesn't even mention the Miata... You know, the best selling convertible.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


kimbo305 posted:

I worry about the hearing loss from cruising around at speed. Having the windows up reduces the decibels a bit.

I work in a 95+ decibel computer room and daily drive a motorcycle, I'm not too worried about a hour or two stint in a convertible. Though I may toss a set of ear plugs in for longer drives.

Hearing loss does suck though. Don't have tinnitus (constant ringing) yet but I expect it within 5 or so years.

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IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





So apparently my mother in law's 99 has been making a whirring noise when she clutches in, which makes me think pilot or throwout bearing. Last night she got off of the freeway and when she went to downshift, the clutch pedal stayed on the floor.

I'm hoping that for my wallet's sake the two are unrelated and it's a slave cylinder, but the fact that after shutting the car off for a while made it start working well enough makes me think that car is getting its first clutch replacement. Anyone have any idea what a ballpark shop rate would be for a clutch job, including all of the while we're in there things?

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