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Splizwarf posted:Hahahahaha Oh, I've got a $200 bike to sink obscene amounts of money into...problem is, it'll still be a 30some-year-old CB750F when it's done. All other things being equal, I'll take the bike that's younger than my kids.
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Oct 29, 2012 22:43
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I don't think that's his engine...just a convenient picture...otherwise, we'd probably be able to see the hole  There are cases out there but I think you'd be better off doing a repair on that case, because it'll probably be half the price of a new set of cases, depending on the welders in your area. I think they might only be usable as matched sets due to the sensitivity of the machining process, but I honestly don't recall. Looks like sets on ebay are around 150 bucks, so...really depends on if there's a decent welder in your area.
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Oct 29, 2012 22:51
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Geirskogul posted:Okay, I just picked up a 79 CB650 for very cheap (with a title, more important than almost everything else) and was told the engine used to run fairly well, though because of other problems (battery, brakes) it was sold to me. I got it home, fixed the front brake (flush + new fluid, pretty easy), and started tackling everything else. Okay, the carbs stopped overflowing after a bit (just poo poo on the needles, I'm guessing), and I got the engine started with some ether at first, then I used my old trick of slowly spurting some carb cleaner into the intake as the engine wanted to die (starting fluid/ether is a bit...detonatey to continually use for a few minutes, I enjoy non-melted/shattered pistons) and over the course of a few minutes, the engine was keeping itself running. Now all I have to do is figure out why piston #1 isn't running, as the exhaust header on it is touchable while the other three are very hot after a few minutes of idling. I have a feeling it's due to the fact that carb #1 is first off of the petcock, and poo poo tends to settle in it before it continues on to the other carbs. Still, progress!
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Oct 29, 2012 23:01
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Yeah, that's not my picture unfortunately, my case is much less accessible at the moment. I guess I'll be calling around to welders tomorrow. Thanks for the input guys. I'm still puzzling over how something like that can happen.
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Oct 30, 2012 02:20
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Z3n posted:I don't think that's his engine...just a convenient picture...otherwise, we'd probably be able to see the hole Ha, yeah now that I think about that its pretty obvious
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Oct 30, 2012 02:36
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AncientTV posted:Yeah, that's not my picture unfortunately, my case is much less accessible at the moment. I guess I'll be calling around to welders tomorrow. Hard freeze?
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Oct 30, 2012 03:44
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Z3n posted:Check your head bearings too. Especially if you've been playing hooligan lately. goddamnedtwisto posted:Check the wheel bearings, you shouldn't be getting judder unless you're braking right near the limit unless your suspension settings are *way* out of wack. I thought about the bearings (and will give them a check over), but wouldn't they effect braking across the board?
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Oct 30, 2012 04:15
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What would be the cause of a loud click from the front when braking hard? It's also noticed by my fatter friends when they ride my bike. I'm thinking the headstock bearings?
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Oct 30, 2012 05:25
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Rattle things around and see if you can duplicate it to narrow it down a bit. If your headstock is loose -- especially if it's loose enough to make an audible click as it slides around -- you should be able to rattle it by shoving the bars forwards and backwards while holding the front brake.
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Oct 30, 2012 05:29
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2ndclasscitizen posted:I thought about the bearings (and will give them a check over), but wouldn't they effect braking across the board? Bearings are fine (in fact the mechanic was surprised at the fact that my steering head bearing were properly adjusted), apparently it's a combination of calipers in need a good rebuild and discs that need replacing with ones that don't suck. Bloke at the mechanic said the vibes were probably coming through the front end rather than the lever because of the soft carcass on the PR3 I'm running. Woo for having to spend more money on the bike! Wait, that's not a woo at all.
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Oct 30, 2012 05:54
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I had PR3s put on a year ago and experienced the same thing early on, a huge shudder on the front. Mine happened on heavy braking mainly, and I had trouble replicating it in a parking lot. It happened to me twice on the road, both times I was lucky to have space to stop still. I haven't had it happen since, so if you're still at early miles on your PR3s maybe it'll get better with miles?
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Oct 30, 2012 05:59
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Well hopefully, yeah. They've got maybe 3000km at the moment, so plenty of life left. I don't think I'll be using them again when they wear out though, really not a fan of their profile, falls away way to much at the edge (on my bike at least).
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Oct 30, 2012 06:15
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Anything wrong with going from 16 / 47 to 14 / 42? Smaller sprockets, less weight, shorter chain, etc.
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Oct 30, 2012 08:25
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BlackMK4 posted:Anything wrong with going from 16 / 47 to 14 / 42? Smaller sprockets, less weight, shorter chain, etc. Chain wrap? Also, will it destroy the chain guide and then start on the swingarm?
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Oct 30, 2012 09:00
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BlackMK4 posted:Anything wrong with going from 16 / 47 to 14 / 42? Smaller sprockets, less weight, shorter chain, etc. The speedo on the 675 is gearbox driven, you'll need to get a speedo healer or get an OBD-II cable, download tuneecu and plug a laptop in to make adjustments to the speedo. The benefit of the latter is that it'll also allow you to upload new tunes and do all sorts of cool stuff.
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Oct 30, 2012 09:04
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I really want a 675, but I'm a broke rear end college student with a lovely reliable 250 that hates the thought of me cheating on it. I can dream though ...
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Oct 30, 2012 09:24
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I've got carpal tunnel. Should I not even remotely consider learning to ride a bike?
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Oct 30, 2012 10:26
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yellowjournalism posted:I've got carpal tunnel. Should I not even remotely consider learning to ride a bike? I would remotely consider it. I find my wrists sit in a very natural position when I ride (this varies from person to person and bike to bike, but try a bunch out and see what works for you), and very rarely do I absorb large shocks through them. You might have issues with holding down the clutch for long periods of time -- when you stop at a light, the safest thing to do is to put the bike into first gear and hold down the clutch while watching for any chucklefucks in your mirrors who might crush you. If you can find a bike with a hydraulic clutch that isn't very stiff, you might not have any issues with this. All things considered, if you're interested, take the Motorcycle Safety Foundation Basic Rider Course and see if motorcycling is compatible with your wrist. Before that, go to a bike shop and sit on as many bikes as you can, finding one that you find most comfortable. When you take the course, explain your situation to the instructor and see if (s)he can point you to a bike ergonomically similar to the one you found. As a newbie, you will be tempted to have a death grip on your handlebars. Break yourself of this habit early -- all it will cause is pain.
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Oct 30, 2012 12:40
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As mentioned, take the MSF. It will allow you to spend a minimal amount of money to sit on bikes all day and decide if your wrist likes it, with the added advantage of learning to safely ride a motorcycle.
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Oct 30, 2012 14:24
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Safety Dance posted:As a newbie, you will be tempted to have a death grip on your handlebars. Break yourself of this habit early -- all it will cause is pain. So much this Also, if you think motorcycling will be OK for you, you can also look into getting a cramp buster. I have had a few people with CTS tell me it works well for them.
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Oct 30, 2012 16:16
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You need a bike with a hydraulic clutch. Looks like a cbr1000rr is appropriate 
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Oct 30, 2012 16:19
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My hands like to go numb a bit when I ride. I find throttle locks (which don't actually lock anything) work great because I can take my right hand off the throttle periodically. I'd say go for it.
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Oct 30, 2012 17:41
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Thanks guys. Yeah I basically had planned to just take the MSF anyway to see how things go (I know jack poo poo about bikes, everyone I know that has one is too far away to teach me), and worst case scenario, I ponied up $250 for a cool experience and a solid go at it. I've always wanted a Triumph, like a Bonneville or something classic like that, so I figure a standard setup like that would probably be the best on your posture and wrists, right? Hell it might even be better for me in terms of making sure I'm vigilant about posture and whatnot (posture is the key to curing CTS). Sitting in my loving car is loving horrible for my posture (and the thing is about to break down for good any moment now)
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Oct 30, 2012 18:43
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yellowjournalism posted:Thanks guys. Yeah I basically had planned to just take the MSF anyway to see how things go (I know jack poo poo about bikes, everyone I know that has one is too far away to teach me), and worst case scenario, I ponied up $250 for a cool experience and a solid go at it. Definitely take the MSF and try it, and remember that a lot can be done to customize the bike to you. Different levers, different handlebars, different grips, adjusting bar/lever angles, cramp busters and throttle locks as mentioned... you can almost definitely find a comfortable wrist position with a bit of time and money, provided your wrists can handle the lever/throttle actions to begin with
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Oct 30, 2012 18:54
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If you want to talk absolutely least wrist pressure, then a dual-sport is probably the answer. A standard like a Bonneville is probably in 2nd place behind a dual-sport though.
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Oct 30, 2012 18:54
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yellowjournalism posted:everyone I know that has one is too far away to teach me) Where are you located?
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Oct 30, 2012 19:38
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Safety Dance posted:Where are you located? East Bay Area, CA
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Oct 30, 2012 20:32
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I was going to clean my klr650 this week and i was wondering if it's a bad idea to use a pressure washer. and if it's a bad idea to use a pressure washer with soap?
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Oct 30, 2012 21:26
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never happy posted:I was going to clean my klr650 this week and i was wondering if it's a bad idea to use a pressure washer. and if it's a bad idea to use a pressure washer with soap? I take my KLR to those DIY car washes that you feed quarters into, and I've never had any problems. Don't use too much pressure on the instrument cluster, delicate carb pieces, fan switch stuff, etc., and you'll be fine. yellowjournalism posted:East Bay Area, CA I live on the other side of the country, otherwise I'd offer to let you try my bikes.
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Oct 30, 2012 21:31
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yellowjournalism posted:Thanks guys. Yeah I basically had planned to just take the MSF anyway to see how things go (I know jack poo poo about bikes, everyone I know that has one is too far away to teach me) Z3n lives in the East Bay -- you could maybe get in touch with him.
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Oct 30, 2012 21:42
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Safety Dance posted:I live on the other side of the country, otherwise I'd offer to let you try my bikes. Thanks man I appreciate it. I may just hit Z3n up in a bit, right now I don't even really have the money to get into this just yet, but I think I'll take the MSF very soon. I would feel worse if I dumped one of Z3n's bikes like an idiot anyway. Thanks guys.
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Oct 30, 2012 22:09
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Yeah, drop me a line, we can chat a bit. Take the MSF, it's what I'd recommend first anyways. Tell them you have carpel tunnel and request a more upright bike if they have options.
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Oct 30, 2012 22:11
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never happy posted:I was going to clean my klr650 this week and i was wondering if it's a bad idea to use a pressure washer. and if it's a bad idea to use a pressure washer with soap? I have seen some recommendations to run the engine while spraying the bike, probably to keep any water from creeping into it or something. v0v Depending on your intake system (pods, airbox, etc.), I would be careful not to direct water near the air intakes, running or not. Before you hit it with the pressure washer or just a hose, liberally apply WD40 to the engine, scrub it, then hit it with a bunch of degreaser. WD40 breaks the grease and grime loose, and degreaser lifts the WD40. So your hose will clear off everything nicely. HTH
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Oct 30, 2012 22:13
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never happy posted:I was going to clean my klr650 this week and i was wondering if it's a bad idea to use a pressure washer. and if it's a bad idea to use a pressure washer with soap? Should be fine, be aware some car soaps have wax that can leave a deposit on your brake disks which can be a bit of a surprise, and think about where you're pointing the lance - pressure washers have a tendency to get water where even the worst weather can't even contemplate, so beware of getting too enthusiastic around the wheel bearings, airbox, and wherever your bike keeps its battery and electronics. You can't go too wrong pointing straight downwards though.
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Oct 30, 2012 22:18
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yellowjournalism posted:Thanks man I appreciate it. You wouldn't feel bad if you dumped one of Z3n's bikes. IT'd be parted out and sold before you hit the ground... (sorry Z3n, couldn't help it!)
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Oct 30, 2012 22:21
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never happy posted:I was going to clean my klr650 this week and i was wondering if it's a bad idea to use a pressure washer. and if it's a bad idea to use a pressure washer with soap?
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Oct 31, 2012 00:55
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A pressure spray won't actually clean it. You'll knock the big chunks off, but once it dries it will be a dirty bike that looks like somebody tried to pressure wash it. To get it legitimately clean, you have to put a rag to it. For me the potential problems outweigh the dubious convenience.
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Oct 31, 2012 01:31
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clutchpuck posted:A pressure spray won't actually clean it. You'll knock the big chunks off, but once it dries it will be a dirty bike that looks like somebody tried to pressure wash it. To get it legitimately clean, you have to put a rag to it. For me the potential problems outweigh the dubious convenience. If it's a pre-'08 KLR650, knocking the dirt off is the best you can do. There's not a single shiny part on that bike. e: maybe with the stock tank a rag makes sense. I've got an aftermarket 7 gallon tank on mine, and it's the same dull plastic as the rest of the bike. I love it, because it means I don't really have to care about dirt.
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Oct 31, 2012 02:22
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It's the lazy way out and it truly shows. The Uly has no shineys and I get it pretty nasty but if all I do is power spray it, I get these vertical drip runs from the water run-off in the dirt that's left stuck on it Like this. And then mud will drip out from the nooks and crannies and accumulate on any even nearly level surface. Plus bugs take longer to target individually and power spray off - you have to be really precise with the spray to cut through the goo; a warm soapy rag, a few strokes over a wide area, and some fingernail action and the bugs are gone. Spraying them off is a pretty big waste of water. I mean... power spray away. If you're happy with how it looks without going back over it with a rag, that's cool I guess. I think the results look terrible.
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Oct 31, 2012 02:39
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yellowjournalism posted:East Bay Area, CA I'm in Hayward and you're welcome to come sit on my bike. It's a Hornet with aftermarket handlebars that give it a more aggressive position, though, so it's probably not what you're looking for. Just let me know if you're interested.
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Oct 31, 2012 02:43
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