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Getting ready to go test-drive a black 1992, BBS wheels, leather, cosmetics look good barring a "minor dent" in the fender. New top, new tires. 130k miles. Seller's asking $2,500. Sound about right? I should ask about the timing belt due at 120,000, but are there any other big-ticket maintenance items I should check?
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Oct 31, 2012 13:55
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I'd check the slave first ($25 tops). For a clutch, Rosenthal has the entire kit for $107.44, it includes the disc, pressure plate, both bearings and the alignment tool. Same P/N on Mazdaspeed is $81.40, list is $135.69. I would figure about 4 hours of labor @ $85/hr. Value Clutch Kit (OEM Exedy): BP07-16-490 -MV
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Oct 31, 2012 14:00
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I did the miata clutch job so many times (3 or 4?) I can have the trans on the floor in under an hour. So a pro could probably do it even quicker.
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Oct 31, 2012 14:11
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NitroSpazzz posted:I work in a 95+ decibel computer room and daily drive a motorcycle, I'm not too worried about a hour or two stint in a convertible. Though I may toss a set of ear plugs in for longer drives. You work in this room for extended periods without hearing protection?
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Oct 31, 2012 16:49
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Not my ears, but why wouldn't you try to prevent getting tinnitus if you expect it in the next 5 years?
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Oct 31, 2012 17:06
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n8r posted:You work in this room for extended periods without hearing protection? Ear plugs in and ear muffs over those if I'm working alone, ear plugs in on the bike too.
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Oct 31, 2012 22:04
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NitroSpazzz posted:Ear plugs in and ear muffs over those if I'm working alone, ear plugs in on the bike too. As someone suffering from cronic tinnitus for 3 years now you should not be so nonchalant about working and commuting in an environment that encourages it. Not being able to experience silence is terrible and feeling like you never will again is even worse.
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Oct 31, 2012 22:15
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So my NB still smells brutally like gas fumes all the time, and the filler hoses in the left of the trunk look OK, with the clamps tight. They seem to be getting worse as the weather gets colder, so I'm continuing to inspect for leaks but haven't found any. Has anyone else has a gas fume smell issue that wasn't caused by that tank filler hose?
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Oct 31, 2012 22:20
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My girlfriend picked up a 96 m-edition for $600. Needs a starter, clutch, top, seats, steering wheel. It sat for awhile under a tarp so it's all damp and musky. I really fear pulling the carpet up but I'm hoping rust is minimal. It runs and drives great though once we push started it. I'm finishing up my 1990 refurbishment rust patching has cured and replacement carpet is in the mail. So I'll have experience at least. Just fixing and flocking the dash left.
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Oct 31, 2012 22:20
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Blackdawgg posted:My girlfriend picked up a 96 m-edition for $600. Needs a starter, clutch, top, seats, steering wheel. I'd consider parting it out instead of fixing it up. In parts it'd probably pay for a nicer miata for less time/effort.
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Nov 1, 2012 00:16
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mattdizzleZ28 posted:I use GM Synchromesh, works great for me, is redline really a big improvement? I have long hair; even when it's tied back, stray ends whipping your face and eyes gets a bit tiring after a few hours.
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Nov 1, 2012 01:41
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n8r posted:I'd consider parting it out instead of fixing it up. In parts it'd probably pay for a nicer miata for less time/effort. I'll pull the carpet before saying that. All that stuff is $500 total tops. Not bad to having a running car for $1100. Especially a miata you could easily flip for 3k right afterwards.
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Nov 1, 2012 02:43
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DreamOn13 posted:I'll pull the carpet before saying that. All that stuff is $500 total tops. Not bad to having a running car for $1100. Especially a miata you could easily flip for 3k right afterwards. I think we may have dodged one bullet. I pulled the parcel shelf carpet. Since the glass window failed and that is where I suspected the most rust. Everything painted is still pristine. The fuel pump panel has a lot of surface rust. Everything not painted has beginnings of oxidation. I'll hit those panels with some POR-15 and it'll be good as new.
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Nov 1, 2012 03:35
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meltie posted:I have long hair; even when it's tied back, stray ends whipping your face and eyes gets a bit tiring after a few hours. Thats why jesus invented sunglasses!
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Nov 1, 2012 15:51
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Broke screw off in throttle body while adjusting my TPS because that piece of poo poo. Hell yeah. Anyone have any tips to be aware of when I start pulling off the TB?
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Nov 1, 2012 17:36
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mattdizzleZ28 posted:Thats why jesus invented sunglasses! And er, I wear glasses  
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Nov 1, 2012 19:15
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Prescription sunglasses! Or aviators over top of your glasses.
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Nov 1, 2012 19:55
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Korwen posted:
Lefty loosey righty tighty
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Nov 1, 2012 23:02
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I got my new keys in, cut from the VIN. Comparing them to the worn copies I got with the car, I'm amazed they worked at all. Basically every feature had been worn down, no sharp corners left, and even some were missing entirely from the copies (one was a point towards the end, which explains why I was having trouble locking the glovebox and console, since they only use the tip of the key).
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Nov 2, 2012 03:54
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I can't find my micrometer and I'm finding a few different sizes online, what is the hub size of a NA Miata? 54.1mm seems to be the most popular but I want to make sure before I order rings. Put the Kosei K1's from my old track E30 on the Miata today and took it for a quick spin. Feels so much better with decent tires. Should be going through the brakes next weekend with new pads, rotors, lines and maybe getting rid of the ABS junk.
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Nov 4, 2012 00:50
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Why would you get rid of the ABS? The ABS in my '92 seems fairly useful.
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Nov 4, 2012 06:51
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Phone posted:I'd check the slave first ($25 tops). For a clutch, Rosenthal has the entire kit for $107.44, it includes the disc, pressure plate, both bearings and the alignment tool. Same P/N on Mazdaspeed is $81.40, list is $135.69. It had been "making noise" for a few days, which to me sounded like a pilot or throwout bearing failure; when the slave went, it went without a sound. DreamOn13 posted:I did the miata clutch job so many times (3 or 4?) I can have the trans on the floor in under an hour. So a pro could probably do it even quicker. Unfortunately, even though it's a simple job as far as clutches go and one where you can get the parts damned cheaply, it's my mother-in-law's only car and she needed it back ASAP. I don't have the time while just trying to keep my cars running / house in order / time with the family to attempt my first clutch replacement, so I took it to the King Of Miatas:  No really, that's him. Awesome guy, he did the top on the car a few years back when it got knifed. Had them do it the right way, which also included a new rear main seal, rear oil pan lip seal, and new rubber boots around the shifter since the originals have probably been torn for years. A bit under $750 out the door, but it was done absolutely right and they had the car done Friday morning after getting it towed there Thursday.
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Nov 4, 2012 07:28
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I used his youtube videos to do the timing belt. Pretty douchey guy about miatas but helpful nonetheless.
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Nov 4, 2012 15:15
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n8r posted:Why would you get rid of the ABS? The ABS in my '92 seems fairly useful. Because racecar. But really it isn't working and if I can't figure out what is wrong with it I'll be pulling it. NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 15:56 on Nov 4, 2012 |
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Nov 4, 2012 15:25
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DreamOn13 posted:I used his youtube videos to do the timing belt. Pretty douchey guy about miatas but helpful nonetheless. Douchey? He's got a shtick for sure, but seems to know his stuff.
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Nov 4, 2012 15:32
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NitroSpazzz posted:Because racecar. But really it isn't working and if I can't figure out what is wrong with it I'll be pulling it. Because racecar is why you keep it. Fix it, don't pull it.
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Nov 4, 2012 16:18
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opengl128 posted:Douchey? He's got a shtick for sure, but seems to know his stuff. Maybe that's the better word  and he does know what he's doing. But the self proclaimed "king" of anything seems douchey to me. That said, I'm still grateful that he puts up those instructional vids on youtube.
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Nov 4, 2012 18:10
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opengl128 posted:Douchey? He's got a shtick for sure, but seems to know his stuff. Yeah, douchey is about as far as it gets from Mike. He absolutely knows his stuff but he has no problem sharing it, talking about it, etc. Genuinely nice guy.
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Nov 4, 2012 19:29
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Motherfucker No note. Debating on if I should bother going through the insurance company... Drives fine, so I suspect it's just cosmetic and if they can pull the fender without damaging the paint it'd probably buff right out. Ruined my day, that's for sure.
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Nov 4, 2012 20:22
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Mazda curse is a hell of a thing
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Nov 4, 2012 20:29
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I'd worry that it at least needs an alignment. Mother-in-law brought by the remains of the original, ~115k mile clutch from her '99. Definitely a throw-out bearing failure that took everything else with it, which is a bit of a shame because that clutch had some life left in it.     Looks like the pressure plate fingers were rubbing against it long enough to start turning blue, even.
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Nov 4, 2012 21:05
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IOwnCalculus posted:I'd worry that it at least needs an alignment. This was my fear as well, but there's no pulling, vibration, or any feeling that the alignment is off. I took it up on the highway and I can still take my hands off the wheel and have it track straight, no pull under hard braking, and I jacked it up and everything looks fine. The only indication that the wheel was even hit was a tiny scratch on the green, which didn't get through the black underneath the green. I'll be monitoring for any weird tire wear, and will be getting an alignment before the next autocross season, so I figure it's probably fine for now at least.
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Nov 4, 2012 21:24
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IOwnCalculus posted:Looks like the pressure plate fingers were rubbing against it long enough to start turning blue, even. Hell, I can easily see the TOB itself wearing out faster under that kind of abuse, and then your poor mom was left holding the bag when it went out. Must be a lot nicer with a fresh clutch in there.
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Nov 5, 2012 04:30
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Seat Safety Switch posted:That looks like someone was riding the clutch while the car is in motion (maybe a previous owner judging from the cracks/scratches on top of the bluing), but a TOB failure might make it happen too. The previous owner is me, at least since 42k miles  So no riding the clutch, just a busted TOB. She says it feels a million times better, I haven't driven it yet.
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Nov 5, 2012 04:41
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Hello, thread. After lusting after a Miata for ten years or so I finally decided to dip my toe in to the Mazdapond. It's a 1994 R package. Has probably been 18 years since I've driven a car without power steering. Koni Sport Shocks in the rear, Koni Race Shocks up front Ground Control Coilovers (spring rates 550f/350r) Fat Cat Motorsport mounts and bumpstops Flyin Miata Sway bars Racing Beat endlinks Racing Beat intake Racing Beat cat-back New...um, everything. Belts, tensioner, pulleys, rad, water pump, hoses, shifter bushings, clutch master and slave cylinders, blah blah. It drives like a dream. I took it out yesterday with the top down (in about 45-degree weather) and even with cold tires it has incredible amounts of grip. I was expecting the ride to be harsh (and contemplating changing the springs for something lighter) but it's perfectly manageable how it is. I'm reluctant to change anything for fear of upsetting it. PO, autocrossing like a boss:  Under the hood. Possibly the cleanest bit of the car.  So, a few questions...there are always questions. The car has Dunlop Star Specs, which I would describe as "loving awesome." I know they're not going to last forever, though. Is it worth sourcing a second set of wheels for some more touring-oriented tires? I'd like to have the Star Specs around for autocrossing and weekend funtimes, but equally I don't want to burn them up with interstate miles if the wife and I decide to take the car on a road trip somewhere nice. The trim strip on the outside of the windows, along the top of the door, is flaking. They seem to be $100+ a side. Can they be repaired? Could I pull them, sand/grind off the remains of the flaky poo poo, and then respray with something? Also, the top's kinda beat up. Cracked window, a hole at the back, and it's starting to pull away at one of the window frames. Given this, and the above two issues, and the fact that the trunk lid and rear bumper is kinda faded and tatty, might it be worth checking out a $1000 1996 model with front-end damage that a local guy is selling? It apparently has new tires, so if the top is good I wonder if I could be ahead on that deal even before I start pulling other bits off it. The PO disconnected the rear swaybar. He gave me the endlinks, though. Should I reconnect it, for road use? My understanding is that running without a rear swaybar tends to increase oversteer, and I've not been having issues with the handling as it is. It has a standard lead-acid battery. Miata.net tells me this is BAD and my trunk will corrode. True? Should I replace it with the Panasonic?
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Nov 5, 2012 14:53
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Congrats on your purchase! The FM rear sway bar is way too big. The PO disconnected it because he would be oversteering at autox with it on. You don't really need the rear sway to be attached unless if you're going to do an HPDE, and you should downsize to a 11 or 12mm stock bar. Buy a set of daisies for a second set of tires. They should run you about $100 for four 12lbs 14x5.5" wheels. Star Specs are rad, but they are summer tires and can be dangerous in the cold (sub-50F). You'll burn through a set per year if you do autox and keep them on from March through October (roughly 10k miles). Window trim: it happens. Softtop? What's that? The Miata has a sealed battery that lasts for way longer than you'd think. If the car starts up every morning, I wouldn't worry about it. If you actually need a battery, there are a few option; however, AFAIK the Panasonic OEM replacement hasn't been made for years. Just make sure you do your research and have the battery tray and you should do alright.
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Nov 5, 2012 16:15
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saint gerald posted:The car has Dunlop Star Specs, which I would describe as "loving awesome." I know they're not going to last forever, though. Is it worth sourcing a second set of wheels for some more touring-oriented tires? I'd like to have the Star Specs around for autocrossing and weekend funtimes, but equally I don't want to burn them up with interstate miles if the wife and I decide to take the car on a road trip somewhere nice.
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Nov 5, 2012 20:09
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Cleaned my miata the other day before a drive up to a kayaking race. Only to drive some dirt roads, dirty the wheels with HP+ dust, and get someone to back into my car in Asheville despite me laying on the horn. Scratched the paint on the bumper, didn't see much more but was mad about it. Well mostly mad that the guy drove right off. On another note, in a pinch, the roll bar makes for some sweet second row seating. Heres the pic while it was still clean. 
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Nov 5, 2012 21:12
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I love that color and those wheels, but don't envy you for having to clean them
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Nov 5, 2012 21:18
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saint gerald posted:Hello, thread. After lusting after a Miata for ten years or so I finally decided to dip my toe in to the Mazdapond. It'll accelerate any rust in your trunk like you wouldn't believe. Replace it with a Westco or similar sealed battery and make sure the vent pipes are connected.
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Nov 5, 2012 22:31
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