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clutchpuck posted:On a bike with more than a pair of carbs to sync, I agree for the most part. But it's usually trivial enough on a twin to make it pretty worthwhile. It literally takes us 5 minutes to do the wife's R1150R.
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# ? Nov 9, 2012 02:13 |
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# ? Jun 6, 2024 04:31 |
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AncientTV posted:Rotella T6 is fine, fellow Floridian here and it's been in my bikes for years. Use away. When researching some oil for work (completely unrelated), I noticed something about JASO specs http://www.jalos.or.jp/onfile/e-ok.htm JASO 4 stroke motorcycle spec appears to be a JASO-Txxx (something.. 904, 903) However, from what I can see the Rotella oil is a DH-2 spec, which according to that JASO page is clearly not a motorcycle grade but indeed a diesel spec. Does anyone know if it is actually rated for a bike spec?
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# ? Nov 9, 2012 02:18 |
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It is not rated for bikes, but about 50 million bikers running it cant be wrong!
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# ? Nov 9, 2012 02:18 |
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The rotella t6 I see at Walmart has a JASO-MA label, which is what my vstar asked for.Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Also depends on how the carbs/bodies are connected to each other. A BMW with them 2 feet apart on either side of the bike and connected only by cables will need some syncing now and then. An I4 rack of carbs closely locked together will hardly ever go out of sync unless you mess with it. My vstar, which had it's Tbs arranged in a unit, needed a sync every oil change per the manual. For that bike, keeping on top of it was important. But it was a vtwin with lumpy primary balance so that stands to reason, a smoother four seems like it would naturally stay set longer. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 02:33 on Nov 9, 2012 |
# ? Nov 9, 2012 02:28 |
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Time for my stupid question of the week; This last fuel fill up I seem to have got about twenty miles less out of a full tank. Is this expected when the temperature drops (it's been freaking cold this last week or so) or could it be symptomatic of a problem? The bike seems to be running fine and it's not leaking anything out. It is due a service next month. Sorry if this is dumb, I'm just paranoid about breaking it!
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# ? Nov 9, 2012 11:32 |
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You might have been a bit harder on the throttle than usual? I don't think 20 miles is enough to really worry about is it? Sometimes I'll stretch my tank out to 370~km, sometimes I'll only get about 330km~ before I hit reserve.
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# ? Nov 9, 2012 11:38 |
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ReformedNiceGuy posted:Time for my stupid question of the week; This last fuel fill up I seem to have got about twenty miles less out of a full tank. Is this expected when the temperature drops (it's been freaking cold this last week or so) or could it be symptomatic of a problem? Also, remember that gasoline companies sell different summer and winter blends, so it's entirely possible that the gas going into your bike changed.
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# ? Nov 9, 2012 12:53 |
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Cheers guys. I'm probably just worrying over nothing. I had no idea about the different fuel blends for summer and winter though!
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# ? Nov 9, 2012 14:35 |
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Is um is zipcar doing this? I feel like somebody got their hands on a zipcar sticker and has rented that particular zipcar and is playing a prank with their motorcycle. There is no way zipcar is renting motorcycles, especially not with a sweet strapped-on cooler trunk.
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# ? Nov 9, 2012 17:59 |
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alnilam posted:Is um Fixed. Also, Zipcars usually have automatic locks and ignitions. That bike's lock seems intact.
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# ? Nov 9, 2012 18:21 |
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clutchpuck posted:I think you're worried about nothing. Your homebrew sync tool is probably not accurate enough for your valves to limit it and I'd wager you can get it pretty close regardless. If you pay $90/hr for a tune-up and synch, get a Morgan Carbtune for $100 and synch your own carbs whenever you wish. http://www.carbtune.com/ It takes about 20+ minutes to do, 10 minutes hooking up the tubes, no more than about 5 minutes of adjusting, and 10 minutes pulling the tubes and putting things back together (port screws, carb tops, etc.) You're welcome.
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# ? Nov 9, 2012 18:47 |
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I want to Replace my handlebar and grips, with probably something lower for a more aggressiveness posture. So any tips on this? I don't mind going with clubman bars and bar end mirrors. Picture of current handlebar set-up, they are much taller than they appear I also wish to re-paint my motorcycle, but I think I will pass on that for now...
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# ? Nov 9, 2012 18:48 |
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Buy lower bars if you want lower bars. You will probably need new grips as well.
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# ? Nov 9, 2012 20:07 |
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ElMaligno posted:I want to Replace my handlebar and grips, with probably something lower for a more aggressiveness posture. So any tips on this? I don't mind going with clubman bars and bar end mirrors.
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# ? Nov 9, 2012 21:14 |
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ElMaligno posted:I want to Replace my handlebar and grips, with probably something lower for a more aggressiveness posture. So any tips on this? I don't mind going with clubman bars and bar end mirrors. Swapping bars is pretty simple, but mind how the new bars affect your cables (clutch, throttle, etc.). I put clubmans on my GS, and they work great. The bike is not a long haul rider, so comfort is not as big a deal to me. I would not want to do really long rides on my bike though. If you drop the bars on a GS, you will soon be longing for some rearsets to make your body position less of a jack-knife. Here are some pics of mine with clubmans and rearsets. This pic is a few months old, before I hid the electrics and changed bar-ends.
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# ? Nov 9, 2012 22:34 |
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Speaking of small winter projects, is there any interest on a thread about small/big winter projects from multiple goons? It would basicly be a winter mourning thread
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# ? Nov 9, 2012 23:43 |
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ElMaligno posted:Speaking of small winter projects, is there any interest on a thread about small/big winter projects from multiple goons?
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# ? Nov 10, 2012 03:34 |
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ElMaligno posted:Speaking of small winter projects, is there any interest on a thread about small/big winter projects from multiple goons? Not saying no but that's basically what the "What did you do to your bike today" thread turns into
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# ? Nov 10, 2012 08:31 |
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Can a CA goon tell me about the rules for driving your new bike home? I'm going to look at a bike on Sunday that I'll probably end up buying. It's from a private owner, so I won't be able to get the registration done there. Am I ok driving it home with the title in my pocket, no insurance card, no registration in my name? I figure on the off chance I get pulled over by a cop (hasn't happened in 10 years of driving, but who knows) he'd probably understand, but I'd love to know if there were regs about that.
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# ? Nov 10, 2012 10:07 |
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Pham Nuwen posted:Can a CA goon tell me about the rules for driving your new bike home? I'm going to look at a bike on Sunday that I'll probably end up buying. It's from a private owner, so I won't be able to get the registration done there. Am I ok driving it home with the title in my pocket, no insurance card, no registration in my name? I figure on the off chance I get pulled over by a cop (hasn't happened in 10 years of driving, but who knows) he'd probably understand, but I'd love to know if there were regs about that. You'll at the very least want insurance. Last time I was looking at a new bike, I called my insurance company, told them I was going to buy a new bike, and they started on the initial paperwork. I just had to call back later with the VIN.
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# ? Nov 10, 2012 16:34 |
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The Senator Giroux posted:You'll at the very least want insurance. Last time I was looking at a new bike, I called my insurance company, told them I was going to buy a new bike, and they started on the initial paperwork. I just had to call back later with the VIN. Every time I've bought a bike I've called and bought insurance before riding it home. I use markel and they are super great to deal with over the phone. Because they only deal with bikes it's never been more than a 5 minute call. They'll start your coverage immediately and mail you all the info and your invoice unless you want to pay with a credit card over the phone.
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# ? Nov 10, 2012 18:24 |
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I need to seal up a leaky flange on the petcock of my CB1000. I used some generic gasket sealant and it works alright, but inevitably fails. Does anybody have a recommendation for some kind of gasoline resistant sealant? Or should I just get a new petcock? A generic one with adapter will work but my bike has a cable operated remote switch for the gasoline flow and a oem petcock will cost dang near $120.
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# ? Nov 10, 2012 18:30 |
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You could just get one from a bike wrecker?
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# ? Nov 10, 2012 18:43 |
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Pham Nuwen posted:Can a CA goon tell me about the rules for driving your new bike home? I'm going to look at a bike on Sunday that I'll probably end up buying. It's from a private owner, so I won't be able to get the registration done there. Am I ok driving it home with the title in my pocket, no insurance card, no registration in my name? I figure on the off chance I get pulled over by a cop (hasn't happened in 10 years of driving, but who knows) he'd probably understand, but I'd love to know if there were regs about that. Call your insurance company. I get a 10 or 30 day grace period for registering new bikes with state farm. So I just buy the bike and ride it home. I got pulled over on the ride home with the Triumph, no plate, no insurance card, just showed the cop the title and explained the story and he sent me on my way with no fuss.
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# ? Nov 10, 2012 18:48 |
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I just did a quote online to add the bike to my policy, and if I'm reading this right, adding an 81 CM400C would actually *reduce* my yearly premium by $54. Awesome, I'm taking this as a sign that I really need to buy the bike.
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# ? Nov 10, 2012 19:24 |
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When I added my bike to my auto policy, my overall premiums also decreased slightly because of the ridiculously cheap insurance out here + multiple policy discount. Yay Progressive.
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# ? Nov 10, 2012 21:28 |
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1337_ScriptKiddie posted:I need to seal up a leaky flange on the petcock of my CB1000. I used some generic gasket sealant and it works alright, but inevitably fails. Does anybody have a recommendation for some kind of gasoline resistant sealant? Used what they had at the hardware store and it appears to be working fine.
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# ? Nov 10, 2012 23:16 |
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I swapped out my chain and sprockets today on my '85 Honda Rebel 250 (I think both were stock so it was definitely necessary). While my friend and I were adjusting the chain, both chain adjuster bolts snapped (both sides of the wheel). I haven't been able to find any information online about what kind I'd need to use to replace it. Does anyone know what kind I'd need to get to replace them. Here's a picture of the assembly, it's what the small nut screws onto in the yellow circle on the left, not the bigger one. Motorcycle superstore has ones for cr250s, and ebay has completed listings for ones for '86 Rebels, but not my year. Any advice or help would be appreciated.
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# ? Nov 11, 2012 00:20 |
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Were you trying to adjust the bolts without loosening the axle or something? How the hell did you snap both of those? You should look on bikebandit or ron ayers on the microfiches and see what years share parts with your bike. The 86 rebel 250 should be exactly the same parts.
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# ? Nov 11, 2012 02:51 |
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Z3n posted:Were you trying to adjust the bolts without loosening the axle or something? How the hell did you snap both of those? They actually both snapped while we were trying to attach the lock nuts, not sure if the axle should have been loosened for that. Both were pretty badly stripped just from age and previous owners' overzealousness. I wound up ordering replacements from the dealership. Edit: just talked to my friend who was helping me. Asked him if we should have had the axle loosened when we were putting on the lock nuts and his response was "oh drat, my bad." LooksLikeABabyRat fucked around with this message at 05:23 on Nov 11, 2012 |
# ? Nov 11, 2012 05:15 |
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LooksLikeABabyRat posted:Edit: just talked to my friend who was helping me. Asked him if we should have had the axle loosened when we were putting on the lock nuts and his response was "oh drat, my bad." You may want to re-evaluate whether this friend should be helping you in the future. And double-check your axle torque before you get on the bike again.
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# ? Nov 11, 2012 05:35 |
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Hello guys, I need some more help. I replaced the O ring this morning that was causing my coolant to leak from where the water pipe and water pump meet. When I took the pipe and pump apart, I had a fair amount of coolant come out, but no more than a quart. I put everything back together and added coolant through the reserve tank. After replacing this, I'm not leaking any more coolant. Awesome! I took it for a ride tonight to meet friends for dinner, and about 5 miles into it, the high temperature light came on. When the light came on, I pulled over to check, and I was still full in the reserve tank. It was going on and off for the remainder of the 15 miles to meet up. I had extra coolant with me and after the bike sat for an hour, I was able to put some more in, maybe half a quart at most. I rode home and the temperature light was off for the first two or three miles and then came back on. Same deal, I pulled over, checked my reserve tank, saw that it was full, and rode the rest of the way home with the light on. My question: what the gently caress is going on to cause this? I obviously have coolant in my system, and I didn't do any work today anywhere near the thermostat to jostle something loose there, so I'm not sure what else to check on this thing. The reserve tank is full, and I would think if the radiator is running low, it would pull coolant from the reserve tank when it's needed. I can't easily get to the radiator to check it because the geniuses at Honda require me to take the gas tank off and one of the side panels off, but again, I would think it would pull coolant from the reserve tank if it was low. My service manual is getting me nowhere fast with this. Always something.
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# ? Nov 11, 2012 06:03 |
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Air bubble?
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# ? Nov 11, 2012 06:04 |
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Sagebrush posted:
He was actually pretty apologetic and said he couldn't believe he had made such a rookie mistake. In his defense we had been working for awhile and we were in a rush because we were late for an event.
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# ? Nov 11, 2012 06:21 |
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Geirskogul posted:Air bubble? I thought that was possible, but for almost 40 miles of riding?
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# ? Nov 11, 2012 06:21 |
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americanzero4128 posted:Hello guys, I need some more help. I replaced the O ring this morning that was causing my coolant to leak from where the water pipe and water pump meet. When I took the pipe and pump apart, I had a fair amount of coolant come out, but no more than a quart. I put everything back together and added coolant through the reserve tank. After replacing this, I'm not leaking any more coolant. Awesome! I took it for a ride tonight to meet friends for dinner, and about 5 miles into it, the high temperature light came on. When the light came on, I pulled over to check, and I was still full in the reserve tank. It was going on and off for the remainder of the 15 miles to meet up. I had extra coolant with me and after the bike sat for an hour, I was able to put some more in, maybe half a quart at most. I rode home and the temperature light was off for the first two or three miles and then came back on. Same deal, I pulled over, checked my reserve tank, saw that it was full, and rode the rest of the way home with the light on. You need to fill from the radiator. With air in there, it's never going pull the fresh fluid through from the reserve tank. You're essentially running minus that quart + of coolant.
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# ? Nov 11, 2012 07:36 |
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Z3n posted:You need to fill from the radiator. With air in there, it's never going pull the fresh fluid through from the reserve tank. You're essentially running minus that quart + of coolant. Pretty much, yeah. The system needs to be bled of air. You mentioned you have a manual, should be mentioned in the general operating stuff about filling fluids.
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# ? Nov 11, 2012 07:59 |
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Okay, so getting my fork seals replaced on Tuesday... I have new Vesrah pads + RBF600 to go in the front but as far as the rotors one of them got a ton of fork oil on it - will brake cleaner take everything off or do I need to lightly sand the rotor as well? I don't want to risk contaminating new pads.
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 11:52 on Nov 11, 2012 |
# ? Nov 11, 2012 11:26 |
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LooksLikeABabyRat posted:I swapped out my chain and sprockets today on my '85 Honda Rebel 250 (I think both were stock so it was definitely necessary). While my friend and I were adjusting the chain, both chain adjuster bolts snapped (both sides of the wheel). I haven't been able to find any information online about what kind I'd need to use to replace it. Does anyone know what kind I'd need to get to replace them. Here's a picture of the assembly, it's what the small nut screws onto in the yellow circle on the left, not the bigger one. Motorcycle superstore has ones for cr250s, and ebay has completed listings for ones for '86 Rebels, but not my year. Any advice or help would be appreciated. The chain adjusters are an assembly that go into the swingarm, with the axle going through them. There's not really a way to replace just the bolts, so you'll have to replace the assembly. You just take the axle out, slide them out, and put in the new ones. You can find them on eBay for pretty cheap usually.
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# ? Nov 11, 2012 17:30 |
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# ? Jun 6, 2024 04:31 |
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BlackMK4 posted:Okay, so getting my fork seals replaced on Tuesday... I have new Vesrah pads + RBF600 to go in the front but as far as the rotors one of them got a ton of fork oil on it - will brake cleaner take everything off or do I need to lightly sand the rotor as well? I don't want to risk contaminating new pads. Brake cleaner and a good scrub should do it.
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# ? Nov 11, 2012 17:42 |