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I am swapping in an ej207 into my 2002 wrx. I keep meaning to post pictures, but will end up doing it at the end of the project when I get the camera back from the garage. I am using a cheap ebay exhaust, that doesn't seem that it would fit well in the best of times. since I have a twin scroll, I bought a turbo outlet that switches to a standard 3" flange. I took the cheap downpipe, cut the bell mouth off, and welded a flange to it. It looked really good until I started to tighten everything down and I found that the flange warped and made my angle all screwed up. I had to cut it and re-weld it, so now it looks like rear end and it is not quite perfect. This exhaust is the kind that would need extended hangers to not hit the bumper. Now with my screwed up angle, it hits no matter what. Is there a flex section or similar that would work without being completely awful? Or maybe 3" OE style doughnut gasket? I am only a couple of degrees off, but the exhaust is all flat flanges, and has no give at all. Any tips? This is my first exhaust I have tried to weld up that I cared about. The one for my truck I just used Canadian tire stock parts and globbed weld onto it until it stopped leaking. e: Eh ordering a 3" flex from summit. It will come in time for me to get it on there before things start breaking anyways. blindjoe fucked around with this message at 20:31 on Nov 14, 2012 |
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Nov 14, 2012 18:03
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I should be able to buy a Legacy All in One Key, have a locksmith cut it, and program it myself, for use in my '05 Saabaru without issue right? Looking at the various guides on NASIOC and IWSTI it shouldn't be an problem as my Saabaru doesn't have an immobilizer.
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Nov 15, 2012 00:09
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Usually oil doesn't really go bad. Or at least I hope it doesn't because I've got like ten jugs of Rotella on the go. Really depends on your comfort level, but an opened unused jug of oil should be considered waste oil. Then again, no one expects 20 years of 24/7 operation out of a car so I wouldn't worry about it. I bought quart chemical bottles and filled them up with my jug of extra-s. I'm ok with that.
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Nov 15, 2012 01:29
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blindjoe posted:I am swapping in an ej207 into my 2002 wrx. I keep meaning to post pictures, but will end up doing it at the end of the project when I get the camera back from the garage. How much did the EJ207 cost? What are you going to do for ODBII emissions testing?
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Nov 15, 2012 02:32
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daslog posted:How much did the EJ207 cost? What are you going to do for ODBII emissions testing? $3500. Emissions testing will be done with my USDM ecu. The JDM one has some weird pinouts for the odb2 connector that some readers won't like.
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Nov 15, 2012 02:42
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blindjoe posted:$3500. I hope you make a thread. I want to do the same swap in my 2004 WRX.
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Nov 15, 2012 03:09
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Quick tip for anyone who has the factory bluetooth and can't get their phone to auto-reconnect when they get in the car. Pair it though the voice prompts, not the head unit. It sounds weird as hell that it would make a difference, but it seems like these are two separate systems grafted on to each other and only by pairing with the voice prompts does everything get setup properly. If I paired using the head unit controls, it would only show one phones as listed as paired, but I actually had two. But one of them wouldn't auto-reconnect. When I then paired with the voice prompts, it claimed I had no phones paired (despite the other two working). However, once pairing was done through that method, the trouble phone would auto-reconnect to the system when the car is started.
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Nov 15, 2012 03:53
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Tusen Takk posted:If it's synthetic I believe you have something long like five or ten years before it breaks down to the point that it's considered bad; I believe natural oil breaks down much faster than synthetic but I can't really say, and this is based on knowledge of chemistry instead of first hand experience, so it could be wrong. Please stop posting what you think.
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Nov 15, 2012 04:34
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Just finished replacing the timing belt and the water pump/pullies on my 05 STi. It took awhile to do since it was my first timing belt job. Those driver side cams got frustrating. I've been reading through this thread and it's a huge wealth of information. Almost overwhelming at times.
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Nov 15, 2012 05:26
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CharlesM posted:Please stop posting what you think. quote:According to scientists at Mobil, natural oil is composed of an "inconsistent mixture of long and short chains of carbon and hydrogen atoms." This inconsistency allows natural oils to break down quickly, losing a portion of their viscosity at high operating temperatures. In contrast, the specially designed synthetic oils are engineered to withstand the highest operating temperatures of an engine, providing maximum lubrication under a wide spectrum of operating conditions. quote:Petroleum oil begins to break-down almost immediately. A high quality synthetic, on the other hand, can last for many thousands of miles without any significant reduction in performance or protection characteristics. Synthetics designed from the right combination of basestocks and additives can last almost indefinitely with the right filtration system. Then somewhere on Mobil's site it says that their synthetics have a shelf-life of 5-10 years in the bottle and 1-2 years in a car that gets less than 2,500-5,000 miles/yr. Elsewhere it says the petroleum based oils have a shelf life of 1 year and should be changed every 6 months regardless of how many miles are put on the car. Hope this helps!
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Nov 15, 2012 07:37
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daslog posted:I hope you make a thread. I want to do the same swap in my 2004 WRX. and posted. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3517506 Gave me an excuse not to work on the car tonight, anyways.
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Nov 15, 2012 08:01
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How is the navi in the newest wrx? I know it's an expensive option but I don't really mind if it works well. I ask because the navi in my wife's new truck is really annoying and I'd rather not have to deal with it in my car.
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Nov 16, 2012 13:37
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War Bunny posted:How is the navi in the newest wrx? I know it's an expensive option but I don't really mind if it works well. I ask because the navi in my wife's new truck is really annoying and I'd rather not have to deal with it in my car. I don't have first hand expirience but based on reading IWSTI.com most people don't like it. It was improved for 2012 cars though if I recall correctly.
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Nov 16, 2012 16:40
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:I don't have first hand expirience but based on reading IWSTI.com most people don't like it. It was improved for 2012 cars though if I recall correctly. It seems to be that it is rarely really worth the expense for those built in nav systems. I mean why would you pay 2k or so when you get get a garmin, tom tom, or hell just use your phone for less than 1/10th the price of the integrated system. Aside from having it be there all the time and (hopefully) always work properly with your sound system.
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Nov 16, 2012 18:19
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:I don't have first hand expirience but based on reading IWSTI.com most people don't like it. It was improved for 2012 cars though if I recall correctly. That's kind of what I worried about. I was all ready to order my car and then we hit another delay selling our house, so I have to wait. I had planned to get a fully loaded Limited, but I'm starting to think it would be a giant waste of money. I also much prefer the STi wheels to the ones that come on the Limited. I may just save the few extra grand, get a STi, and put a really nice navi/sound system in it. Edit: yeah, that too, amandyke.
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Nov 16, 2012 18:21
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Does it have any other built in functions? The navi in my Legacy has some gauges for instant mpg, avg mpg and throttle angle. All fairly useless until someone hacks it and gets it to display some more important engine management readings from the ecu.
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Nov 16, 2012 19:20
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Owen Wilsons Nose posted:Does it have any other built in functions? The navi in my Legacy has some gauges for instant mpg, avg mpg and throttle angle. All fairly useless until someone hacks it and gets it to display some more important engine management readings from the ecu. I think it displays texts which seems to me to be a "nice to have but not paying extra for it." Don't know much else though. The factory head units are weak as hell though. If you want decent sound I think aftermarket is both better and cheaper.
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Nov 16, 2012 20:05
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War Bunny posted:How is the navi in the newest wrx? I know it's an expensive option but I don't really mind if it works well. I ask because the navi in my wife's new truck is really annoying and I'd rather not have to deal with it in my car. I thought my aftermarket pioneer x930bt was slow till I played with the factory nav in my buddy's wrx and holy poo poo is it stupidly sluggish. You're most likely better off spending the upgrade money on a decent aftermarket headunit that fills whatever needs you have.
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Nov 17, 2012 02:52
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Owen Wilsons Nose posted:Does it have any other built in functions? The navi in my Legacy has some gauges for instant mpg, avg mpg and throttle angle. All fairly useless until someone hacks it and gets it to display some more important engine management readings from the ecu. Yeah, I already have an Ultra Gauge, so having that info on the navi screen is useless to me. I appreciate all the input, sounds like ill definitely forgo the navi.
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Nov 17, 2012 04:26
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War Bunny posted:Yeah, I already have an Ultra Gauge, so having that info on the navi screen is useless to me. I appreciate all the input, sounds like ill definitely forgo the navi. Are there any pros/cons for using one of those fancy OBD2 gauges vs a mechanical gauge? Been thinking about getting a UEGO and boost gauge for a while, but those all in one OBD2 type gauges seem neat, and less of a pain.
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Nov 17, 2012 14:14
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McSpatula posted:Are there any pros/cons for using one of those fancy OBD2 gauges vs a mechanical gauge? Been thinking about getting a UEGO and boost gauge for a while, but those all in one OBD2 type gauges seem neat, and less of a pain. I don't have a turbo, so I can't speak for the boost psi, but it's pretty awesome having access to all of that info on one little screen. I think I have eight readouts on my home screen.
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Nov 17, 2012 18:20
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McSpatula posted:Are there any pros/cons for using one of those fancy OBD2 gauges vs a mechanical gauge? Been thinking about getting a UEGO and boost gauge for a while, but those all in one OBD2 type gauges seem neat, and less of a pain. I also have one and I would say the pros for ultra gauge is: lots of configuration, reads codes. cons are slow update rate, and you don't have an independent readout of your data. if your ecu gets funny data, so do you. for boost gauge you need a real gauge. the odb2 one doesn't update fast enough. For O2 sensor it might be fine. Oil pressure, the ecu doesn't get a readout.
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Nov 17, 2012 18:59
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Welp, I took the plunge. Ordered a '13 WRX hatch, ETA is 3-4 weeks. Can't wait 
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Nov 17, 2012 21:18
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Currently having a misfire issue with my 04 FXT - after a warm start (ie after getting gas or swinging into the 7-11), I get ~15 seconds of rough idle before it smooths out. Eventually got a CEL for misfires on #1 and #3 and brought it into the mechanic. So far - they've checked the block/heads for cracks, checked the spark plugs, checked the injectors, checked the compression, checked the o2 sensor, replaced the crank pulley, changed the oil..all okay, still misfiring. Running out of ideas - anybody have any suggestions?
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Nov 18, 2012 00:07
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Mickles posted:Welp, I took the plunge. Ordered a '13 WRX hatch, ETA is 3-4 weeks. Can't wait What's up 2013 WRX buddy! I went to the only dealership within reasonable range of me today to look at two silver hatches. I was more interested in a sedan and the silver wasn't doing it for me. While waiting (an hour!) for a sales rep to free up I saw two blue 2013's outside in the back of the lot and fell in love. Turns out they were ordered and sold. Or so I was told. Turns out the sedan was ordered but the buyer decided to not pull the trigger. His loss my gain. Monday I'll take the keys of my first non-VW/Audi (and non-hatch!) in over 10 years. 
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Nov 18, 2012 04:52
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tayLOVE posted:Currently having a misfire issue with my 04 FXT - after a warm start (ie after getting gas or swinging into the 7-11), I get ~15 seconds of rough idle before it smooths out. Eventually got a CEL for misfires on #1 and #3 and brought it into the mechanic. Check the cam control valve on top of the head, they can jam up and cause misfires without throwing a code. When theyre out just try and move the plunger with a small screwdriver to see if it's seized. Might need a clean out or replace. Easiest way to check is to swap the valves left to right and see if the misfires go to 2+4 ChunksNensja fucked around with this message at 07:42 on Nov 18, 2012 |
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Nov 18, 2012 07:38
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tayLOVE posted:Currently having a misfire issue with my 04 FXT - after a warm start (ie after getting gas or swinging into the 7-11), I get ~15 seconds of rough idle before it smooths out. Eventually got a CEL for misfires on #1 and #3 and brought it into the mechanic. They checked the block/heads for cracks? How? You would have to take the engine out and apart. Do a leakdown test. And if that turns out good try swapping the injectors over to the other side. How did they check the injectors? jamal fucked around with this message at 07:59 on Nov 18, 2012 |
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Nov 18, 2012 07:56
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jamal posted:They checked the block/heads for cracks? How? You would have to take the engine out and apart. I guess they pulled the exhaust & checked the bottom of the block for any seepage/leaks. I'll get more info from them tomorrow - the shop is pretty well respected around here (in portland, where everyone drives subarus) & they're charging me a fraction of the labor costs...I'm just surprised they havent seen another car behaving the same way.
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Nov 18, 2012 19:41
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I have a beater '92 Loyale sitting in my driveway that my dad gave to me. I'm wondering if it's worth the trouble to fix it up. The car runs, but not strong. It's 2WD and AUTO. My dad bought this car off of someone else who had their 90-something year old mother drive it, but it's been sitting since '01 after she passed away. Title was a hassle to get too. Issue is, Legacys are popping up on craigslist for a pretty drat good price, and i'm thinking just scrapping the Loyale instead. Anyone have any experience with these Loyale/Leone/GL/L-series cars?
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Nov 19, 2012 00:15
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Understanding posted:I have a beater '92 Loyale sitting in my driveway that my dad gave to me. I'm wondering if it's worth the trouble to fix it up. The car runs, but not strong. It's 2WD and AUTO. My dad bought this car off of someone else who had their 90-something year old mother drive it, but it's been sitting since '01 after she passed away. Title was a hassle to get too. I'd scrap the Loyale and get a decent Legacy, the EJ engined cars are better in every single way. It would take Legacy bucks in parts alone just to get the Loyale up to speed.
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Nov 19, 2012 02:18
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 I have a problem. Pulled the motor out of the rolled car, getting ready to put it into the white one for a daily driver. WRX motor will go into rolled one for rally car eventually..
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Nov 19, 2012 04:42
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Why is that a problem?
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Nov 19, 2012 05:37
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CharlesM posted:Why is that a problem? Was referencing the image. Too many subaru parts not in subarus!
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Nov 19, 2012 05:53
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I could fix that problem for you if you let me come by with the wagon for an hour or two.
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Nov 19, 2012 05:56
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Well... I have that problem with Mazda parts too
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Nov 19, 2012 06:01
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MATLAB 1988 posted:It would take Legacy bucks in parts alone just to get the Loyale up to speed. I figured it would come to this. Most i did was change the coil pack, spark plugs, and changed the oil. Came out black and with rust. Killed my confidence in this project.
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Nov 19, 2012 15:15
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I doubt there's really much wrong with the loyale. If it runs, you're in good shape. Tune the ignition timing (it has a distributor). Connect the green connectors in the back driver's side of the hood, and set it to 20 deg BTDC. Unplug the green connectors. These things sorta just go forever. I've worked on a lot of them, and they're great cars that go for little money. I have an 89 sedan, swapped from fwd auto to a 4wd 5 speed dual range. Swapped in an older pushrod motor, etc...... and on and on. It's a bit of an obsession at this point. But they're fine cars.
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Nov 19, 2012 15:40
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I guess i'll have to pick up a timing light. On the plus side a running car is worth more than scrap value.
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Nov 19, 2012 18:31
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Alright, I really don't want to be 'that guy', but I'm curious about the mileage my car has been getting. 2002 Impreza TS wagon, 5 speed. I got it in March, and have been keeping gas receipts/log from the beginning. The only change I've made to the car was to put stock 16" WRX rims on it. I forget the tire size, but they're not crazy oversized or anything, and I remember checking to see that they'd have a 1.5% change (at most) on speedometer reading, etc. Anyway, I'm consistently getting 380km/tank, and see that a lot of others get 400-450. All of my driving is in the city. Also, the gas around here is all mixed with up to 10% ethanol (which I know has less 'energy' than straight gas). I only drive a few times a week, so is it also possible that I'm getting a bit of water in the fuel as well? Or is that all BS? I'm thinking of doing plugs/wires as soon as I can, and cleaning the air filter (there is a sticker under the hood saying it's a K&N, which I'm assuming the PO put in), to see if either help. Edit: Checked tires - Yokohama Avid V4S, P205/55/R16, 89V. When I bought the car, it had snow/winter tires on it, and I only had them on the car for a month or less before I found the Yokohamas, so 90% of my driving has been on the one kind of tire. VVV Thanks for the info. I did see stuff about 'winter gas' cropping up in some other threads/discussions when I did a Google search. I'm in Vancouver, BC, so I'm not sure that they switch? Captain McAllister fucked around with this message at 22:16 on Nov 19, 2012 |
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Nov 19, 2012 21:31
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Winter gas is usually a different formulation. I get substantially worse fuel economy in the winter on every car. Additionally if you switched the 'kind' of tire (which it seems you might have done so) you can easily get hit with a fuel economy penalty. There's a big difference in economy between my winters, all-seasons and RS3s.
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Nov 19, 2012 21:47
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