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I guess my other concern would be reliability. I would be getting a used late model injected bike (pref. SV650 or similar). I wouldn't be too against getting a new bike either but I have less than 5 months riding experience so there's that. I would need it to start at 0530 every time regardless of weather, but as far as I know, it's the carbs that have troubles with cold starts.
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Dec 31, 2012 00:17
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| # ? May 15, 2024 10:23 |
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I've used a bike as daily transport for ages now, it works fine if you have something modern, injected and in a fairly lazy state of tune. I recently got an sv650 and it's pretty much perfect from that standpoint. Keep in mind that you'll need to regularly tension and clean/lube the chain and check the tyre pressures. Bikes need more attention than cars to get the most out of them, but you sound like you've got at least half a brain so this shouldn't be a problem for you. Like ponies says, a backpack is a must. I usually just have a simple medium sized one, but my SV does have a ventura rack in case I want to carry anything more substantial. None of that stuff is expensive or particularly hard to get. Modern bikes are very reliable, all the usual suspects (sv650, bandit, er-6 ninja) use proven, simple technology with relaxed engines and modern manufacturing techniques, and can stand up to some abuse. Maintenance as always is key.
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Dec 31, 2012 00:33
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Riding a bike on a military base includes extra hassles, including that you must have your motorcycle license / endorsement before bringing it on base. There may be extra paperwork involved / chits to route / etc. You will probably be required to wear a helmet (good idea anyway) and a neon vest (kinda silly) whenever riding on base. Check with your command for any extras. The big thing is going to be inclement weather. You're going to still need to get to work if it's torrential rain / snow / sleet etc, and while it's theoretically doable on a bike, you're not going to want to. I'm assuming you get to work somehow already, be it base bus, carpool etc - if those options are available, then you're good. Military folks are real bad about this with vehicles, but avoid financing as much debt as possible when buying, and shop around for loans if you must have one. Usually the department credit union (or PenFed) have the best rates. You can get a good deal from the dealer but you usually must have excellent credit, which most young guys living in a barracks can't pull off.
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Dec 31, 2012 00:39
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I'm aware of the extra hassles of onbase riding and I don't mind it at all. I would never ride without a helmet regardless and the hi-viz at night seems like a good idea anyway. Already have BRC but will have to do a 1 day sportbike class and advanced course within 3 months of purchase. I don't really have any issues purchasing the bike itself and I don't mind the increased maintenance. If I can work on a helicopter I can work on a bike.
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Dec 31, 2012 01:00
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You're all set then 
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Dec 31, 2012 01:04
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:I use my bike as my sole transport. I do have a truck, but it's pretty much my wifes. I ride rain or shine, depending on your lifestyle it can definitely work. I'd invest in a really good backpack, a molly system or something works well. There's 2 packs I ride with, one is a mid size bag like an overnight-2 day camping pack the other is my big bag that's for a week or more. I use them for everything from hardware store runs to groceries and carrying my laptop/work shoes. The PO of my owner installed a hard topcase on it (think it's originally for a Silverwing) which I really like. It's roomy enough to fit two full-face helmets, and even though I live in a really low-crime area (Japan) the peace of mind of being able to lock stuff up on the bike is nice. It's also got a locking quickrelease so you can pull it off the bike and bring it inside with you. I haven't used them yet on the bike myself (lent them to the PO of my bike so he could do Costco runs), but I also picked up a pair of Ortlieb saddlebags, which can hold quite a bit and are pretty well-made. I'll also wear a backpack, although mostly it's just to hold extra cold-weather gear that I don't have to get off the bike to access (like with the topcase). I was gonna go down to just bike once I got my XLR (between insurance and parking my car costs me about $120/mo just to have), but having made the mistake of buying the car first I've gotten soft and used to it. Among my group of friends there aren't many people with vehicles, so going down to just the bike would restrict my social/dating life quite a bit. Plan is to sell the car in January and move down to a light van, which will be a bit cheaper on insurance and get significantly better gas mileage (plus can camp out of it)... can also fit the bike in the back in a pinch, so I think it'll be a nice compliment to the motorcycle. Pompous Rhombus fucked around with this message at 01:28 on Dec 31, 2012 |
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Dec 31, 2012 01:22
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Shimrod posted:Hey guys, can you give me a heads up on anything I should be looking out for on a 2007 Ninja ZX6R, there's one about an hour away that I'm going to look at for my open class license bike and I'd like to be able to check it out and know what I'm looking for if there's any odd little issues those bikes have while I'm there. ZX-6Rs tend to be pretty solid. Only thing I can think of would be listening for cam chain rattle, Kawasaki tensioners tend to be a bit shite, apart from that just check it's been looked after.
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Dec 31, 2012 01:37
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Isn't there also an issue with 2nd gear disappearing if they've been abused? I've seen a few for sale with no 2nd but an otherwise functioning gearbox, and heard of people claiming they pop out of 2nd if they're in poo poo shape. This is for the sort with the non-casette type box though, I don't know which one the 07 is.
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Dec 31, 2012 01:40
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Slavvy posted:Isn't there also an issue with 2nd gear disappearing if they've been abused? I've seen a few for sale with no 2nd but an otherwise functioning gearbox, and heard of people claiming they pop out of 2nd if they're in poo poo shape. This is for the sort with the non-casette type box though, I don't know which one the 07 is. 2nd gear failing is an issue with basically every sportsbike model ever.
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Dec 31, 2012 02:01
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I've caught mine going from first to N when I'm stopped, is that a potentially more serious issue?
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Dec 31, 2012 02:13
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Thanks
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Dec 31, 2012 02:20
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2ndclasscitizen posted:2nd gear failing is an issue with basically every sportsbike model ever. Yeah, pretty much. Only one that is kind of an exception is the 99-02ish R6 which had a really, really weak transmission design (only 3 shift dogs vs. the typical 4-6 on most transmissions), and a shift fork design that was later revised. Even then though, they're just less resistant to abuse vs. something like a guaranteed failure at xxxxx miles. Pompous Rhombus posted:I've caught mine going from first to N when I'm stopped, is that a potentially more serious issue? Nah, you're probably just not getting all the way into first so when it loads it's popping out. Are you shifting after you come to a stop or when you're moving really slowly? Because that's the most common thing that I've seen contribute to that.
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Dec 31, 2012 02:27
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Thanks for all the advice, AI. Now to find a biek. I wish my SV didn't get stolen back in 2011  they're kinda rare to find.
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Dec 31, 2012 02:59
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Megabuttes posted:I'm aware of the extra hassles of onbase riding and I don't mind it at all. I would never ride without a helmet regardless and the hi-viz at night seems like a good idea anyway. Already have BRC but will have to do a 1 day sportbike class and advanced course within 3 months of purchase. If you're going to use it as your only transport, also consider getting something with integrated luggage and also potentially shaft drive (to give you one less thing to fix). If you have limited riding experience, a Honda NT700V (a/k/a Deauville) would make a nice daily-rider. I agree going new-ish is good. You don't need something with multiple, lurking, age and owner-incompetence related issues if it's your only transport.
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Dec 31, 2012 08:15
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As an update-ish to my rotor button question a few weeks ago - I'm getting some vibration through the front end and the rotor buttons have gotten noiser so I'm going to buy a set of used rotors. Probably going to get 09-12 rotors too since they look nicer / are newer.  I note that they went from 8 buttons to 10 and I doubt it was just for looks...06-08 rotors:  09-12 rotors (675R rotors are black): 
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 08:51 on Dec 31, 2012 |
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Dec 31, 2012 08:48
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Megabuttes posted:How feasible is a motorcycle as a single form of transportation? I live in military barracks and have literally everything I need for purchase right across the street from me. The bike would be used mostly for transportation to and from work (~2.5 miles away) and forays into the town and countryside. Also the weather here currently averages ~48 degrees with occasional light rain here and there. Only you can really answer that question - I get along fine but I a) live in the middle of a city with excellent public transport and b) have my mum's car or Zipcar to use if I actually need to carry anything that can't get on the back of a bike. Having said that I have successfully transported, among other things, a 21" Trinitron monitor and a 3-drawer filing cabinet on the back of a bike. Almost anything's possible with enough bungees.
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Dec 31, 2012 15:52
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goddamnedtwisto posted:anything's possible with enough bungees.
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Dec 31, 2012 15:55
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Almost anything's possible with enough bungees. This man is wise, listen to him.
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Dec 31, 2012 17:44
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Just get a bungee net. 
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Dec 31, 2012 18:18
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Finally getting the rust out of my tank. I'm using the KREEM kit and I already messed it up. Being the cheap rear end I am, I opted to tape the petcock/fuel sensor holes with Gaffers tape which worked pretty well when I was washing the tank with water/soap. After draining it I added the Wash/Cleaner (tank prep A), I've only got a gallon jug for the water so I had to make multiple trips. On the last trip as I poured the last half gallon in I discovered that the tape had failed, so the majority of the solution had leaked out. I've tipped the tank on its side so I can at least get something out of it. So guys, what can I use instead to neutralize the rust? Suggestions on properly sealing the holes would be appreciated, I'm going to stop by home depot and see what's available (I'm thinking I'll just get chunks of rubber and cut to fit so I can plug up the holes).
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Jan 1, 2013 01:12
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KREEM sucks balls, and will eventually flake apart. Caswell tank sealer works so much better, and I've been running it for three years with no issues whatsoever. Pick up some muratic acid from the Home Depot or similar to get the rust. Shake up a diluted powder/water mixture with some deck/roofing screws to get the rust, then neutralize with a succeeding wash with vinegar, baking soda, water, then some isopropryl alcohol to dry it out. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 03:03 on Jan 1, 2013 |
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Jan 1, 2013 03:01
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Geirskogul posted:KREEM sucks balls, and will eventually flake apart.
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Jan 1, 2013 15:55
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Geirskogul posted:KREEM sucks balls, and will eventually flake apart. My tank got KREEMed 7-8 years ago and other than turning kind of a brown color it's held up fine.
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Jan 2, 2013 04:47
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obso posted:My tank got KREEMed 7-8 years ago and other than turning kind of a brown color it's held up fine. This sounds dirty... Question: Today I was riding some twistys and hit some sand in a corner. My rear slid out a good ways but I kept my throttle consistent and had a minor buck when it hooked back up. Is that the best way to handle a slide like that or should I apply more/less throttle when I lose rear traction and start going sideways a bit?
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Jan 2, 2013 05:49
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I've always heard that's the preferred method. Giving it more throttle is gonna weight more of the rear that is going to make you slip out faster. If you let off it's gonna weight the front weird and probably gently caress up your corner. I'd say just keep steady maintenance throttle and hold on. Chances are if you really run into some poo poo like that you didn't see it anyway and will be too slow to react in any dangerous way. At least that's how it's always been for me - by the time the poo poo goes down it's too late to react and things worked out ok in the end.
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Jan 2, 2013 06:10
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Keep throttle on and try and get the bike upright, if possible, given the corner and situation.
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Jan 2, 2013 06:47
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http://www.keepcalm-o-matic.co.uk/p/keep-calm-and-throttle-on-4/
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Jan 2, 2013 08:36
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Add more throttle to keep the rear loose, lean way over and drift out of the curve while throwing the horns to people in the other lane who can only dream to be as awesome as you. 
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Jan 2, 2013 08:37
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When in doubt, throttle out. ...is the lesson I need to learn.
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Jan 2, 2013 11:51
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Spin it to win it!
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Jan 2, 2013 12:10
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Geirskogul posted:KREEM sucks balls, and will eventually flake apart. Caswell tank sealer works so much better, and I've been running it for three years with no issues whatsoever. Be careful with muriatic acid, as it can chew through the metal, your skin, etc. Better to use phosphoric acid instead. Home Depot sells Etch N Prep for treating concrete before painting. Pour the whole jug into the tank, after sealing the petcock holes. Turn the tank periodically, and in a few hours, it will be clean and sexy with little or no risk of flash rusting.
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Jan 2, 2013 21:09
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You can also electrolytically de-rust your tank, if you like. It's more complex and takes longer, but the process will selectively loosen and dissolve iron oxide (rust) while leaving the steel alone, and the alkaline electrolyte will actually give the bare metal a mild passivation that keeps it from flash-rusting before you fill the tank with gas. I left my tank churning away for about a week, but it was pretty shiny and nice inside afterwards and didn't require anything more toxic than sodium carbonate (pool pH+, 6 dollars for enough to do about 50 gas tanks). Also, you can use the same process to de-rust anything else, like your shifter linkage or kickstand or whatever, and taking the piece out of the solution and literally rubbing the rust off with your fingers is pretty awesome. Lots of instructions online. Here's a decent place to start: http://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/ (if you choose to do this, do NOT use stainless steel and do NOT use baking soda. Washing soda or pool pH+ as your electrolyte, and mild steel anodes only. You don't want hexavalent chromium poisoning.) Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 22:23 on Jan 2, 2013 |
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Jan 2, 2013 22:20
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De-rusting is pretty drat simple. I think it's less work and a better long term solution than coatings.
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Jan 3, 2013 01:09
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n8r posted:De-rusting is pretty drat simple. I think it's less work and a better long term solution than coatings. First you de-rust, then you put a coating on to prevent future flash rusting. Nobody here wants to put a coating over rust.
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Jan 3, 2013 02:48
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Geirskogul posted:Nobody here wants to put a coating over rust.
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Jan 3, 2013 04:06
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If you've de-rusted it, what's the point of the coating? The gasoline and its vapors are going to displace any moisture that would cause the tank to rust any further. If a rubber coating were necessary over the expected life of the bike, it would be included from the factory.
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Jan 3, 2013 04:09
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Most tanks do get some sort of chemical treatment on the inside from the factory, but it tends to be pretty lightweight stuff, nothing major.
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Jan 3, 2013 04:13
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And gasoline vapors do poo poo for keeping moisture out. I have found bikes with tanks left half-full for just a few months with rust on the un-submerged part.
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Jan 3, 2013 04:16
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Geirskogul posted:And gasoline vapors do poo poo for keeping moisture out. I have found bikes with tanks left half-full for just a few months with rust on the un-submerged part. I'm not the right person to sperg over this, but Neroboro or someone a while ago posted how wonderful gas is at keeping out moisture. I find it hard to believe a tank will rust assuming the gas was fresh a few months ago. There is no reason to coat a properly de-rusted tank. I would run some in-line filters for a while to catch any particulates you don't get out.
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Jan 3, 2013 04:39
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| # ? May 15, 2024 10:23 |
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Oxygen rusts tanks, not necessarily the moisture. If your tank is less than completely full there is oxygen in it that is rusting your uncoated tank. Even if its doing it slowly. The factory coatings just help to keep a half full tank from turning to crap. If you leave the tank uncoated and let it sit for a while you might be surprised how much surface rust will build up. Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 04:57 on Jan 3, 2013 |
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Jan 3, 2013 04:55
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