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Cocoa Crispies posted:2013: Those are Boss 302 guages, the GT and V6 still have retro guages, but reversed colors
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Jan 4, 2013 21:28
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Krakkles posted:Even the '12, though, has the PRND321, which works quite well and is what I was describing. What about 5 and 4? If the problem is a tendency to hang out in overdrive too much, I think those would be the most useful. If you want to get ready to overtake on the highway, you probably don't want to go straight from 6->3, but 4 or 5 would be an ideal gear for that situation.
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Jan 4, 2013 23:09
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You sure about that? That thing does rev all the way to 7000, and the stock 28" tall tires / 3.31 gear ratio make for some interesting gear/speed charts: What's crazy to me is how close third and fourth are, and yet how far fourth and fifth are. Tech specs pulled from Ford.
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Jan 4, 2013 23:29
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IOwnCalculus posted:You sure about that? That thing does rev all the way to 7000, and the stock 28" tall tires / 3.31 gear ratio make for some interesting gear/speed charts: I'll try it out next time I'm on a highway merge, but I'm pretty sure that redline in 2nd is below 118 km/h in my car. Perhaps I've not been pushing it sufficiently. considering I'll often shift into 5th as I'm overtaking. Are there any 2011 Mustang V6s that come with a final drive ratio higher than 3.31? Mine's stock, but I can't lay my hands on anything that states it precisely at the moment, especially because Google doesn't seem to want to dig up information on Canadian versions (V6, pony package, manual, if you want to take a look).
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Jan 5, 2013 05:36
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Cocoa Crispies posted:Paddles are standard on the 2013 models, but I don't think 2012 autos even had the option for paddles. Are you sure? I thought the SelectShift was through buttons on the shifter and not floppy-paddles. The 2012s didnt have manual shifting at all...
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Jan 5, 2013 08:21
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PT6A posted:What about 5 and 4? If the problem is a tendency to hang out in overdrive too much, I think those would be the most useful. If you want to get ready to overtake on the highway, you probably don't want to go straight from 6->3, but 4 or 5 would be an ideal gear for that situation. I don't know about the V6, but on the 3.15 ratio V8, 3rd gear is a good passing gear, as long as you are going 65 MPH or more. Third gear will run all the way up to 115 MPH or so, as I recall (I have 2011 GT automatic). And it pulls like a mothereffer all the way. 4th would be too tall to give you full passing power unless you are at felony speeds.
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Jan 5, 2013 09:11
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PT6A posted:I'll try it out next time I'm on a highway merge, but I'm pretty sure that redline in 2nd is below 118 km/h in my car. Perhaps I've not been pushing it sufficiently. considering I'll often shift into 5th as I'm overtaking. Are there any 2011 Mustang V6s that come with a final drive ratio higher than 3.31? Mine's stock, but I can't lay my hands on anything that states it precisely at the moment, especially because Google doesn't seem to want to dig up information on Canadian versions (V6, pony package, manual, if you want to take a look). Ah, see, those ratios are for the automatic. The individual ratios for the manual seem to be more sanely spaced and a bit shorter so unless you have the optional 2.73 rear, you should not be able to do 74MPH/118KMH in second gear. My point was that an automatic doesn't care how many gears it has to kick down, and since third should cover nearly all highway acceleration situations, the transmission should drop all the way from sixth to third if you put your foot in it while cruising around 70MPH.
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Jan 5, 2013 15:23
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Heres my 06 GT. I've had it for almost 2 years now. Best car I've ever owned. Its so reliable and bullet proof. The gas mileage is terrible (14mpg city 24 mpg highway). Right now the louvers are off the car for the winter. I also need to paint the area behind the grille black since the red of the radiator support area shows through.    Exterior: SD Mustang Accessories Hidden Foglight Black Billet Grille Astra-Hammond Aluminum Rear Louvers Jaeger Mudflaps 35% Tint Performance: C&L Street Intake and Filter Ford Racing Performance Parts 4.10 Differential Gears Steeda Tri-Ax Short Throw Shifter Diablosport Predator U7140 GT500 Strut Tower Brace I'd like to lower the car because it rides so sloppy, but I am pretty happy with how it is now for day to day driving. I don't really care about cornering especially since I live in the city. My last car was pretty much 100% done up (motor swap, suspension, etc) and it was a constant hassle. Right now its reliable and fast in a straight line. I've been thinking about using stock springs with stronger shocks so I can keep my 4x4 speed bump clearing height but not feel like I am driving a 2 door Crown Victoria. amp281 fucked around with this message at 15:52 on Jan 5, 2013 |
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Jan 5, 2013 15:37
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IOwnCalculus posted:Ah, see, those ratios are for the automatic. The individual ratios for the manual seem to be more sanely spaced and a bit shorter so unless you have the optional 2.73 rear, you should not be able to do 74MPH/118KMH in second gear. My point was that an automatic doesn't care how many gears it has to kick down, and since third should cover nearly all highway acceleration situations, the transmission should drop all the way from sixth to third if you put your foot in it while cruising around 70MPH. Ah, understood. I must have been working on too little sleep last night.
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Jan 5, 2013 18:11
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shodanjr_gr posted:Are you sure? I thought the SelectShift was through buttons on the shifter and not floppy-paddles. The 2012s didnt have manual shifting at all... Oh, right. I haven't driven a 2013 auto yet, and most of my 2012 experience has been with my stick shift.
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Jan 5, 2013 19:53
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Is the Steeda Short Throw Shifter worth it. I feel like it would just be a replacement for the knob and wouldn't really do anything significant.
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Jan 6, 2013 05:59
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Rabble posted:Is the Steeda Short Throw Shifter worth it. I feel like it would just be a replacement for the knob and wouldn't really do anything significant. It replaces the entire assembly. Its worth every penny. You can even use the stock knob (I didn't). The TR3650 in the 06 has a lot of problems getting in reverse and second gear. Replacing the shifter assembly with the Tri-Ax fixed this and now it shifts better than any car I've driven. The downside was it made the car interior noticably louder, due to increasing NVH by having a more solid link between the transmission and the unibody, but thats not really a downside in my book. It also requires about half the distance to shift, so it shifts a lot faster, and it removes the shifter slop so it always goes in the gear you want. I think its an essential upgrade.
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Jan 6, 2013 14:40
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Rabble posted:Is the Steeda Short Throw Shifter worth it. I feel like it would just be a replacement for the knob and wouldn't really do anything significant. I didn't have a Mustang but to back up what amp281 posted - when I installed a Steeda Tri-Ax short shifter in my Focus it was a night and day difference, they make really high quality products that are worth every penny.
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Jan 7, 2013 03:18
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Tanz-Kommandant posted:I didn't have a Mustang but to back up what amp281 posted - when I installed a Steeda Tri-Ax short shifter in my Focus it was a night and day difference, they make really high quality products that are worth every penny. Especially on remote mounted shifters!
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Jan 7, 2013 03:42
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Krakkles posted:New Edge lights chat: That looks great, where did the housings come from? That'd look pretty swass on my '00 GT.  I am two months into owning this car and it's pretty great. Better gas mileage than my old 4banger truck, waaaay better highway performance. Drawbacks: can no longer feasibly curb hop to parallel park, takes twice as long to warm up the twice-as-large engine. With the way I use it, it's a comfortable, slow noisemaker. Ford definitely made an effort to make my ears happy with the exhaust. Goes faster than my Buell but takes a lot longer to get there and doesn't sound quite as awesome doing so. Next month the wife and I are taking a road trip down to San Francisco for a couple days in it. I'm going to get an oil change before we go, and likely also be doing the gearbox and differential oils as well, which raises a question: are there recommended gearbox and differential oils I should be planning to use? I think the service shop I go to has Royal Purple in stock and that worked well in the RX-7s, any reason I should avoid that on the Mustang? clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 00:22 on Jan 8, 2013 |
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Jan 7, 2013 23:50
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I have royal purple in my car its been fine.
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Jan 8, 2013 15:08
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clutchpuck posted:That looks great, where did the housings come from? That'd look pretty swass on my '00 GT. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3328290&pagenumber=109&perpage=40#post410832474 Link at the end of that post. Very happy with price, service, quality, fit. They're made by TYC, which is probably as close to non-OEM major brand as it gets. Install was simple - video at that link, also.
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Jan 8, 2013 18:44
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Whoah, once again I am surprised at how cheap mustang stuff is. Thanks for the details.
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Jan 9, 2013 02:24
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My best buddy is looking to buy a 2005 Mustang V6 Auto with 51,000 miles. (Silence Viggen, it's not for me). The dealer is asking $10,000 and my friend is expecting him to drop it to $8000, very unrealistic. The car's had two rear end accidents which have been repaired. No salvage title. I'm stressing to him not to buy it based on it being boring and been in accidents but he's being headstrong and kind of dumb about this. So that said, what she he look for as far as issues with the car since he's going to make a worse decision that I ever have as far as cars go.
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Jan 10, 2013 00:07
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Rhyno posted:2005 Mustang V6 Auto RAINBOWS! 
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Jan 10, 2013 00:11
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Rhyno posted:My best buddy is looking to buy a 2005 Mustang V6 Auto with 51,000 miles. (Silence Viggen, it's not for me). The dealer is asking $10,000 and my friend is expecting him to drop it to $8000, very unrealistic. The car's had two rear end accidents which have been repaired. No salvage title. I'm stressing to him not to buy it based on it being boring and been in accidents but he's being headstrong and kind of dumb about this. Tell him he's a dumbshit that's going to have to deal with what's coming to him and wash your hands of the whole affair.
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Jan 10, 2013 03:27
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This guy is literally my best friend in the world. I'm trying to keep him from making a huge mistake. Just me saying "don't buy it, its a pile of poo poo" won't work.
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Jan 10, 2013 07:13
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Rhyno posted:I'm trying to keep him from making a huge mistake. Just me saying "don't buy it, its a pile of poo poo" won't work. Reminds me of this other thread...  The best you can do is find him a better deal on another model with no issues.
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Jan 10, 2013 09:13
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Rhyno posted:This guy is literally my best friend in the world. I'm trying to keep him from making a huge mistake. Just me saying "don't buy it, its a pile of poo poo" won't work. It won't work if he's got a hard on for the car already but you can always try to convince him to buy one that hasn't been in 2 accidents. At the very least convince him to drive it and compare it to something else. I know this is a Mustang thread but I'd much rather spend that kind of money on an 5 or 6 year old GTI than on a 4.0L V6 because I've made a similar mistake. Terrible performance, mediocre efficiency and it's just not fun. Nobody is impressed by a hairdresser trim level Mustang and all you'll hear is "Is that a V8? No? Oh well at least it looks fast". There is no pre 2011 V6 worth buying...period.
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Jan 10, 2013 14:26
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Any of you guys ever go to s197forum? Just curious.
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Jan 10, 2013 14:31
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kimbo305 posted:Reminds me of this other thread... I'm fairly certain you guys contacted that GN owner and sabotaged my purchase. And I thank you for it.
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Jan 10, 2013 16:13
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Rhyno posted:My best buddy is looking to buy a 2005 Mustang V6 Auto with 51,000 miles. (Silence Viggen, it's not for me). The dealer is asking $10,000 and my friend is expecting him to drop it to $8000, very unrealistic. A low mile new edge GT with a proper gearbox and no accidents will cost less than that V6 sow, plus much more fun to drive. Pre-facelift 5th gens already look a little silly, they won't age well.
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Jan 10, 2013 19:35
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Now he's telling me "Some of don't care about speed or power, just looking cool."
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Jan 10, 2013 19:38
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clutchpuck posted:Pre-facelift 5th gens already look a little silly, they won't age well. For me, now that the facelifted Mustangs have been out for a while, my appreciation for the butchness and blockiness of the older S197s has gone up. Rhyno posted:Now he's telling me "Some of don't care about speed or power, just looking cool." So get him a good deal.
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Jan 10, 2013 19:39
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Rhyno posted:Now he's telling me "Some of don't care about speed or power, just looking cool." Have him check out that GN.
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Jan 10, 2013 19:53
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amp281 posted:Any of you guys ever go to s197forum? Just curious. First I've heard of it. Pretty decent?
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Jan 10, 2013 20:10
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Rhyno posted:Now he's telling me "Some of don't care about speed or power, just looking cool." Tell him to buy the Mustang, no expenses spared. Then proceed to take him to the nearest Auto Zone to load up on chrome goodies. Then post pictures here.
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Jan 10, 2013 20:35
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Tide posted:First I've heard of it. Pretty decent? Its got the best technical threads of any mustang forum, mostly because they ban you for posting anything that's not tech in a technical subforum. So instead of technical threads that are "how do i install my new cobra badges on my v6" you get "5.0 Coyote Swap"
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Jan 10, 2013 20:56
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Nothing looks cooler then a used rental car that has been in two wrecks! Just read my advice again on car recommendations. The only thing people want to hear is that the car is awesome and they got a good price. This applies even if they paid $75K on a sentra. You should send him the gets all the chicks 96 mustang ad from the craigslist thread.
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Jan 10, 2013 21:05
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Rhyno posted:This guy is literally my best friend in the world. I'm trying to keep him from making a huge mistake. Just me saying "don't buy it, its a pile of poo poo" won't work. Sometimes you just gotta stand back and let your friends make a stupid decision. Kind of like letting them date that hot chick with the crazy eyes.
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Jan 11, 2013 00:53
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MikeyTsi posted:Sometimes you just gotta stand back and let your friends make a stupid decision. Kind of like letting them date that hot chick with the crazy eyes. You know what, he let me date the crazy chick. For three years. gently caress 'im.
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Jan 11, 2013 01:01
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MikeyTsi posted:Sometimes you just gotta stand back and let your friends make a stupid decision. Kind of like letting them date that hot chick with the crazy eyes. Sure, you're gonna end up losing money and sanity, but what a ride! ..unless it's the V6 mustang.
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Jan 11, 2013 01:03
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amp281 posted:Any of you guys ever go to s197forum? Just curious. The one modded by the well known scammer SD Wheeler? Most of the mods over there are just his alt accounts. No thanks, I'd rather not support the most prolific Internet scammer there is.
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Jan 11, 2013 01:46
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I was going to tell a friend of mine who just bought a 2003 V6 convertible that he had made a bad decision until he mentioned the part where it has 60,000 miles on it and he got it for $3,000. It looks brand new. Tell him about that, maybe. Also, I've got a '98 GT that has developed an odd rattling -- or even maybe described as a clanking -- from the right rear area. It's not the tires or the wheels or the brakes (or the rotors, or the calipers), and I emptied the trunk and made sure nothing was loose in there. Can the differential make noises like that? What else is back there? It doesn't seem to affect driving and seems to be independent from everything: turning, braking, acceleration, hills, speed, engine speed... it just comes and goes and can be pretty loud and completely silent at entirely different times along the same route.
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Jan 11, 2013 03:55
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vote_no posted:I was going to tell a friend of mine who just bought a 2003 V6 convertible that he had made a bad decision until he mentioned the part where it has 60,000 miles on it and he got it for $3,000. It looks brand new. Tell him about that, maybe. I'd go with: bodywork, brake assembly, some piece of suspension linkage, something in the driveline post-diff like a drive plate or something (don't know if street cars use those), in that order. Do you have the equipment to get the car in the air enough for you to get under and nut n' bolt basically the entire rear end? Is there anything specific you can do to induce it? A reproducible condition would be very helpful
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Jan 11, 2013 04:06
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