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Sockington posted:Why would you have to eat the cost? Tell them the car is not shifting properly and let them diagnose. Dealer says the next step is to open up the transmission. Warranty says if they open up the transmission and find out there's nothing wrong then they don't pay for the labor. Should I get a second opinion from another mechanic? Don't much trust dealers so I was looking for things I could check myself or have somebody else check out before I go that far. e: basically if I can be reasonably sure it's just the synchros I've got nothing to worry about, so I want to eliminate other possibilities first Synonamess Botch fucked around with this message at 22:32 on Jan 7, 2013 |
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Jan 7, 2013 22:27
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Why isn't it, "My transmission shifts like a bag of poo poo. It won't go into fourth or fifth gear properly. Since this is a warrantied vehicle, please give me a loaner while YOU(dealer) figure it out." Car buyers aren't mechanics. Why should YOU have the responsibility to identify the problem on a warrantied item?
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Jan 7, 2013 23:07
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Sockington posted:Why isn't it, "My transmission shifts like a bag of poo poo. It won't go into fourth or fifth gear properly. Since this is a warrantied vehicle, please give me a loaner while YOU(dealer) figure it out." Yeah, that's exactly the way it should be approached. When I had a 3rd gear synchro crunch on my 2002, I demonstrated it to the service manager and essentially said "fix it." It's up to them to figure out what needs to be done to fix it. If part of that is splitting the case, then that's something they pay for under warranty. If they are worried it's fluid, that's fine too. They just pay to replace the fluid and see if it goes away. Unless they try to pull the abuse card, the situation is essentially a black box to you. You hand over your car until it's not screwing up anymore and they pay for the whole thing.
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Jan 7, 2013 23:17
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Sockington posted:Why isn't it, "My transmission shifts like a bag of poo poo. It won't go into fourth or fifth gear properly. Since this is a warrantied vehicle, please give me a loaner while YOU(dealer) figure it out." It isn't that because that's not how the warranty contract works. I have to authorize the tear-down and I am responsible for the charges if it is deemed not covered by the warranty, full stop. I'm just trying to cover my bases, here.
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Jan 7, 2013 23:39
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Synonamess Botch posted:It isn't that because that's not how the warranty contract works. I have to authorize the tear-down and I am responsible for the charges if it is deemed not covered by the warranty, full stop. I'm just trying to cover my bases, here. Having gotten my first warrantied car last year and not used it much is this a Subaru warranty you are talking about or a third party warranty? Because it sounds hosed up and I should go read my warranty if you are on a Subaru one.
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Jan 8, 2013 00:08
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Synonamess Botch posted:It isn't that because that's not how the warranty contract works. I have to authorize the tear-down and I am responsible for the charges if it is deemed not covered by the warranty, full stop. I'm just trying to cover my bases, here. That sounds like utter BS to me. That's not how warranty works, certainly not a Subaru one.
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Jan 8, 2013 00:16
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Synonamess Botch posted:It isn't that because that's not how the warranty contract works. I have to authorize the tear-down and I am responsible for the charges if it is deemed not covered by the warranty, full stop. I'm just trying to cover my bases, here. How many miles are on the car? Who changed the gear oil last and what oil was used? I'd start playing dumb at this point, like what everyone else is suggesting. The part is under warranty, give them the car tell them what's going on, have them diagnose and fix it. You should in no way be responsible for diagnosis of a problem with the vehicle while it is under warranty. Might be worth putting a call into SOA.
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Jan 8, 2013 00:40
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Synonamess Botch posted:Dealer says the next step is to open up the transmission. Warranty says if they open up the transmission and find out there's nothing wrong then they don't pay for the labor. These two lines, back to back, are hilarious. Dealer says we have to open it up to fix a warranty issue. Warranty says, if there is no issue, then they don't pay for labour.... TO THE DEALER.  The only reason you should be taking out your wallet is to be packing it full of dealer business cards for your SOA phone call. Of course, none of this applies to a Lubrico****TM warranty type poo poo.
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Jan 8, 2013 00:56
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Totally TWISTED posted:Having gotten my first warrantied car last year and not used it much is this a Subaru warranty you are talking about or a third party warranty? Because it sounds hosed up and I should go read my warranty if you are on a Subaru one. My wife got it through the dealership, but it is third party, not Subaru. VehicleOne specifically. Cat Terrist posted:That sounds like utter BS to me. I agree, but I'm working with what I've got here.
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Jan 8, 2013 02:55
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Where do you live? Maybe goons know a sympathetic dealer. I actually had to do that for my 2003 WRX but it was a factory warranty.
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Jan 8, 2013 03:11
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CharlesM posted:Where do you live? Maybe goons know a sympathetic dealer. I actually had to do that for my 2003 WRX but it was a factory warranty. Lehigh Valley, PA.
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Jan 8, 2013 05:13
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Associate I work with brought his GF's 1998 Legacy to Midas for new brakes. They did rotors and pads all around, and front calipers as they said they were frozen. Now it has a "front right wheel wobbles and throbbing starts when rolling and stops when applying brakes." I wish he had asked me before he went to a national chain, as I never trust any of them. Thoughts? My guess is either a wheel bearing or they messed up the brakes.
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Jan 8, 2013 15:13
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Really 2002, I'm sorry I haven't driven you as much in the past two years, but that's no reason to get spiteful! Fixed (patched) the coolant leak for now and I'm getting brake fluid leaking somewhere in the front driver's side brake assembly.
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Jan 8, 2013 17:41
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An update on my CEL's if anyone's curious: I had the tuner disable the P0420 code and remove the rear 02 spacer. My fuel economy has improved by almost 3 mpg and I'm not longer getting the P2096 and P0137's I was getting before. This of course makes sense as the two codes I just mentioned are essentially the rear 02 sensor not getting enough/incorrect data from not being as close to the exhaust stream as it should be. The MPG issue makes me certain that there is feedback between the rear 02 and the ECU other than just telling it about cat efficiency. This wasn't the case in older model WRX's, I know, but it's definitely the case now! Hopefully I can pass inspection with just the one code disabled, I have 9 months to worry about it, heh.
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Jan 8, 2013 20:35
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daslog posted:Associate I work with brought his GF's 1998 Legacy to Midas for new brakes. They did rotors and pads all around, and front calipers as they said they were frozen. Now it has a "front right wheel wobbles and throbbing starts when rolling and stops when applying brakes." That's a dead, dead, dead wheel bearing / maybe hub. Lightly-frozen caliper might have been keeping them in line by maintaining pressure on the rotor. God help you(r friend) if this car lives or has lived anywhere in a rust belt, at any time. Just replace the hub(s) with the bearing(s) and pretend it's normal to do so.
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Jan 8, 2013 20:42
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I'm looking at the new Outbacks and I need a little bit of advice about which transmission to get/test drives. I probably want to stick with the 2.5 but I'm not a fan of nor have I heard good things about CVT's. I like the idea of driving a manual but have never driven one as my DD. My dad did make me learn to drive one before I could get my license but learning how to drive one 10+ years ago and being proficient are obviously two different things. I'm assuming they probably don't want me test driving their new manual outback when I'm not good at driving one right? What's the best way to go about this with being able to tell how the car drives and if it's got enough power to move that fatty crossover wagon body around?
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Jan 8, 2013 22:13
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Braggo posted:I'm looking at the new Outbacks and I need a little bit of advice about which transmission to get/test drives. I probably want to stick with the 2.5 but I'm not a fan of nor have I heard good things about CVT's. I like the idea of driving a manual but have never driven one as my DD. My dad did make me learn to drive one before I could get my license but learning how to drive one 10+ years ago and being proficient are obviously two different things. I'm assuming they probably don't want me test driving their new manual outback when I'm not good at driving one right? What's the best way to go about this with being able to tell how the car drives and if it's got enough power to move that fatty crossover wagon body around? Just don't tell them you're bad at driving a manual. The new 6speeds are pretty nice to drive. Although they're cable shift, so in 10 years they'll probably all suck.
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Jan 9, 2013 00:26
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Braggo posted:I'm looking at the new Outbacks and I need a little bit of advice about which transmission to get/test drives. I probably want to stick with the 2.5 but I'm not a fan of nor have I heard good things about CVT's. I like the idea of driving a manual but have never driven one as my DD. My dad did make me learn to drive one before I could get my license but learning how to drive one 10+ years ago and being proficient are obviously two different things. I'm assuming they probably don't want me test driving their new manual outback when I'm not good at driving one right? What's the best way to go about this with being able to tell how the car drives and if it's got enough power to move that fatty crossover wagon body around? I first drove a manual when a girl I was dating in highschool decided she needed to teach me in her 88 Volvo wagon. That was about a 10 minute lesson. The next time I drove stick was 7 years later on a Jeep test drive. I did not buy that Jeep. When I test drove my Subaru this summer 3 years after the Jeep test drive, I just got right in and started doing it. Sure, my 1-2 shift was horrible for the first month, but it was easy enough to get the car moving for the test drive and the drive home later that night.
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Jan 9, 2013 00:50
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My apologies if this has been done/asked to death, but... Will a 3" axelback exhaust for a 2006 WRX Wagon fit onto the stock exhaust for a 2002 Impreza TS? Both cars are wagons, and it is my understanding that the routing for the axelbacks are the same, but everything up front differs (for one, obviously, the WRX has an up & down pipe, and the headers are different). I'm looking to eventually put in UEL headers and have some kind of midpipe made up, but a good deal on an axelback has come up and I'd like to grab it if I can. If it won't currently fit/work on my car (the 02 TS), what will have to be done/modded so it will? I realize this question is kind of rice-y, but I want to let the boxer rumble out!
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Jan 9, 2013 08:24
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chrisgt posted:Just don't tell them you're bad at driving a manual. The new 6speeds are pretty nice to drive. Although they're cable shift, so in 10 years they'll probably all suck. Yeah, I agree. I have a '12 Outback with the 2.5 and a manual transmission, and it's super smooth and easy to learn. My girlfriend picked it up after a few lessons, and my girlfriend's mom (who last drove a stick in the 70s) was toodling along no problem.
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Jan 9, 2013 16:17
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Thanks guys, guess I'll just go and tell them I want to test drive it. Hopefully I'll be joining the Subaru club in the next month or two. I've already got a beard but I'll need to get some flannel.
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Jan 9, 2013 17:18
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Captain McAllister posted:My apologies if this has been done/asked to death, but... 3" is too big for an NA subaru IMO, keep it to 2.25. You'd at least need to adapt a smaller pipe to the bigger WRX junk. The hangers should be close enough. IMO it's not worth it and NA subarus sound like rear end regardless. I say all this, but then I talk about putting a fart can on my race car in IRC all the time. So YMMV
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Jan 9, 2013 18:41
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Here is a thread I referenced when putting a WRX exhaust on my N/A 2.5 http://www.rs25.com/forums/f5/t109747-those-wanting-run-gd-wrx-sti-catback-gc.html
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Jan 9, 2013 18:46
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Cross post from stupid questions: 2006 Saab 9-2x Aero ( = WRX) When I start the car after it's been sitting in cold (30-50 F), I hear a bit of squeaking under the hood, like a slippery belt. The steering wheel shakes a bit and pushes back against turns for the first minute. After that first minute, the steering responds normally and the sound goes away, except when I turn the wheel full lock in either direction. Here is video, you'll need to turn it up: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PwMpWBUptXI Ideas on what's going on?
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Jan 9, 2013 20:49
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I didn't watch the video, but it sounds to me like the accessory belt to the power steering pump is slipping when cold. This would lead to variable power available to the power steering which would account for the wheel shake. It's a cheap and easy fix. Parts are maybe $20 or so for both belts (I would replace both while I had it apart because it's only a matter of time before the AC belt starts going now too.) It's not too difficult, but it can get slightly frustrating lining everything up.
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Jan 9, 2013 21:01
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blk posted:Ideas on what's going on? Are you losing any fluid? Have you tried running a bit of ATF through it? This sounds like the well-known steering pump failure, but I'm not willing to jump directly there. How is the belt? Is it tight? FWIW, pretty sure you have the STI steering rack so it's going to be cheaper through a Subaru parts dealer/etc than a SAAB one..
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Jan 9, 2013 21:02
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jamal posted:The turbo water pump inlets are cast aluminum. The bolt pattern should be the same. 11060AA061 Wooo, digging up old post. Bought the cast aluminum part. Had someone cut, rotate, and reweld it. Currently, there is a mystery lower radiator hose from a BMW? shoved onto it which "works". Obviously, I cannot use the stock molded rubber hoses and I'd like to upgrade to silicon hoses anyways. jamal - Do you know of any flexible silicon rad hoses that would work? I think the stock subaru poo poo is all 1.5" ID hose? Looks like Samco makes something called superflex/ultraflex?
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Jan 9, 2013 21:10
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Sounds like the belt. And the Subaru pumps themselves don't fail that often, what happens is that the hose from the reservoir gets old and lets some air into the system. This makes your steering pump make a whining/groaning noise and eventually the air will damage the pump.
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Jan 9, 2013 21:10
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jamal posted:This makes your steering pump make a whining/groaning noise and eventually the air will damage the pump. I've never met a 9-2x owner who could change their own oil. Just sayin'.
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Jan 9, 2013 21:13
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Viggen posted:I've never met a 9-2x owner who could change their own oil. Just sayin'. I can change oil, thanks, although I haven't done it on this car yet, and I have little mechanical experience otherwise. Not losing fluid, haven't tried ATF, belt feels tight. Maybe I should try replacing it anyways. jamal posted:Sounds like the belt. And the Subaru pumps themselves don't fail that often, what happens is that the hose from the reservoir gets old and lets some air into the system. This makes your steering pump make a whining/groaning noise and eventually the air will damage the pump. Anyway to tell if there's air in the system besides seeing foaminess in the reservoir? blk fucked around with this message at 22:27 on Jan 9, 2013 |
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Jan 9, 2013 22:22
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blk posted:Anyway to tell if there's air in the system besides seeing foaminess in the reservoir? Don't bother. It's your belt. Either tighten it or replace it.
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Jan 9, 2013 23:49
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Eh, nm.
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Jan 9, 2013 23:58
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Braggo posted:I'm looking at the new Outbacks and I need a little bit of advice about which transmission to get/test drives. I probably want to stick with the 2.5 but I'm not a fan of nor have I heard good things about CVT's. I like the idea of driving a manual but have never driven one as my DD. My dad did make me learn to drive one before I could get my license but learning how to drive one 10+ years ago and being proficient are obviously two different things. I'm assuming they probably don't want me test driving their new manual outback when I'm not good at driving one right? What's the best way to go about this with being able to tell how the car drives and if it's got enough power to move that fatty crossover wagon body around? The Impreza I had for a loaner recently had a CVT. It seemed fine to me. Not like I really did any extended testing though.
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Jan 10, 2013 02:52
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CharlesM posted:The Impreza I had for a loaner recently had a CVT. It seemed fine to me. Not like I really did any extended testing though. Interesting, does anyone else have experience with the CVTs?
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Jan 10, 2013 04:16
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Braggo posted:Interesting, does anyone else have experience with the CVTs? I had a '12 loaner Legacy 4-door while my Impreza (manual '12) was getting looked at for 2-3 days. Seemed just like any other automatic to me but I didn't do anything crazy or racing with it.
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Jan 10, 2013 04:31
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I picked up some Rotella 5w40 and a bottle of Lucas oil stabiliser, and if there's room in the shop tomorrow at lunch I'm going to change my oil and see if this poo poo will quiet my horrifyingly loud piston slap. I'd like for it to be as quiet at cold start as it currently is when hot, but we'll see. 
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Jan 10, 2013 04:52
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Totally TWISTED posted:I had a '12 loaner Legacy 4-door while my Impreza (manual '12) was getting looked at for 2-3 days. Seemed just like any other automatic to me but I didn't do anything crazy or racing with it. Hah, don't know how crazy or racing I'll be able to be with an Outback. Really I just want to be able to get around/away from terrible SC drivers.
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Jan 10, 2013 04:55
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Braggo posted:Interesting, does anyone else have experience with the CVTs? Yes. Avoid at all costs. Worse than automatics.
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Jan 10, 2013 04:56
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Braggo posted:Hah, don't know how crazy or racing I'll be able to be with an Outback. Really I just want to be able to get around/away from terrible TN drivers. I certainly did that in it  However I'm certainly less of a car savvy pro when compared to Cat Terrist. Would you summarize what makes CVT horrible? I'm actually interested because the SO is considering Subaru and doesn't want a manual.
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Jan 10, 2013 05:03
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Cat Terrist posted:Yes.
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Jan 10, 2013 05:48
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