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After some twisties, found nice long straights on the A82, and found the engine refuses to go above 8k rpm's in 5th, indicating 60mph. I think the bike's actual speed is 10% lower than indicated at all times. It' ll happily go above that to an actual 60+ @ 9k+ revs (screaming) in 4th, though. Odd.
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Jan 11, 2013 01:22
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MonkeyNutZ posted:Is there any situation where "Power out" isn't the correct answer? Yeah, when a geometry issue means the faster you go, the more the chassis wobbles.
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Jan 11, 2013 01:23
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Sooo... I turn 30 this year, and I'm thinking about giving myself a present. A couple of presents. I've already bought myself a Nikon D7000 by accident. Whatever. I'm thinking   BRAND NEW BIKE . Yes, I know more about depreciation than I would like. My two main contenders are: The new Triumph Street Triple R.  Or MV Agusta Brutale 675.  I haven't had any chance of riding either yet, since this is what it looks like here right now, but in true armchair general fashion I've started jerking off to specs and different colours. Standard on the Brutale are four different maps for the injection and a traction control with eight different settings. All swedish imports seem to come with EAS (quickshift) as well. Brakes are Brembos front and back, Marzocchi 43mm front and Sachs rear suspension. Swedish price is 103900 SEK(≈15000 USD). Street Triple R comes with... uh. Wheels? Well, less bling than the Brutale anyway, although if I buy I'm gonna get it with ABS and a plug-n-play quickshift available from Triumph right from the get-go. Nissin front, Brembo rear brakes. Kayaba 41mm forks and Kayaba rear shock. Price 99990 SEK (≈14500 USD). Wet weight is 182kg (400lbs) for the Triumph and 179kg (395lbs) for the MV. Power/torque is 106hp@11850/68Nm(50ftlbs)@9750 for the Triumph and 108@12500/65(48)@12000 for the MV. Rake/trail is 23.4deg/95mm on the Triumph and 24/95 for the MV. Numbers-wise it's pretty much same same, and I could poo poo out these numbers all day long since I almost know them all by heart now. I really want the Brutale. WANTWANTWANTNEEDNEED. But. The MV is not available with ABS, something I really feel can save my bacon some day. And I have no idea at all what to expect, quality-wise, from MV. They are really rare here in Sweden (or anywhere, I imagine) and consequently, there are four dealers total in Sweden for them, the closest being 150km from where I live. I have two Triumph dealerships closer than 100kms. The aftermarket for the Triumph is huge (at least for the old model), for the MV it's less than impressive. Am I supposed to make the sensible choice here? What is the sensible choice? Help me CA, you're my only hope. 
Nidhg00670000 fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Jan 11, 2013 |
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Jan 11, 2013 01:27
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Wootcannon posted:After some twisties, found nice long straights on the A82, and found the engine refuses to go above 8k rpm's in 5th, indicating 60mph. I think the bike's actual speed is 10% lower than indicated at all times. It' ll happily go above that to an actual 60+ @ 9k+ revs (screaming) in 4th, though. Odd. It's not unusual  for a low-powered vehicle to reach its maximum speed in its second-highest gear. 5th on your bike is likely an overdrive, designed to save fuel when cruising around at reasonable speeds; if you can't reach top speed in that gear, it means that it's so low that there isn't enough torque to overcome the wind resistance. Gear down into 4th, and while your redline-limited top speed is lower, you now have the power to push past the wind and reach a higher overall speed. If you did something stupid like drafting behind a transport truck on the highway (taking most of the air resistance out of the equation), you'd probably find that your maximum speed was then reached in top gear.60-70 miles an hour at the top end sounds about right for a 125, so I don't think there's anything wrong with the vehicle. Just physics at work. Nidhg00670000 posted:The new Triumph Street Triple R. I think this looks like a gigantic mess.
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Jan 11, 2013 01:41
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You're not buying for a practical reason. Buy the bike you want, not the bike you think you need. At a $500 US difference, buy the drat MV. And according to this: http://www.cycleworld.com/2012/07/24/2012-mv-agusta-brutale-675-first-ride/ it does have ABS. Although there's no mention of it on MV's site, so they're probably just wrong. Z3n fucked around with this message at 01:52 on Jan 11, 2013 |
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Jan 11, 2013 01:49
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The MV is way more awesome and so much better looking. Don't buy the Triumph.
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Jan 11, 2013 02:10
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Sagebrush posted:It's not unusual Thank you so much for taking the time to go over it!
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Jan 11, 2013 02:20
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Sagebrush posted:This might go better in the vintage bike thread, but this one gets more play so eh gently caress it: CV carbs are less susceptible to altitude changes than other carb types, however they are affected just the same. But you have it backwards, as you increase in altitude the oxygen lessens and the bike starts to run too rich. No risk of damaging your bike from it, just a loss of power. If you have mufflers with removeable baffles it's a good excuse to pull them out. It will lean the mixture up some and get some of the power back.
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Jan 11, 2013 02:22
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Nidhg00670000 posted:Or MV Agusta Brutale 675. A million times the MV. Do you really need to ask? Look at this bike.
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Jan 11, 2013 02:40
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Nidhg00670000 posted:Sooo... You've probably been down these roads but I thought I'd suggest them. MV Augusta always seemed like the kind of bikes that you love love love to look at but might not enjoy owning. Dealership concerns, Italian build quality. Sort of like owning a Ferrari - you'd never think of buying one unless you were sure you could afford two. I forget which goon owns an F4 but he'd be able to describe the total ownership experience better. On paper that's a pretty good value, though. The ST3R is kind of surprising in how down-spec it is for an R, but in the States it's cheap - $1600 less than the base Daytona with essentially the same kit and thousands less than the Daytona R with Ohlins. It's a first year bike so demand will be higher but you're more likely to be able to play the dealers and get a better real world deal than I think you would with MV. I do think it's got a touch too much plastic, though. The outgoing ST3/ST3R are cruder bikes but cleaner looking and supposedly wilder, and if you find a last year's model (still new) the money you save might just pay for tasty Ohlins/Brembo. I'd think about that option. I don't know how these are for Swedeprice but if I was an EU I'd be considering the Ducati Streetfighter 848 and maybe a flavor of Aprilia. Especially if I'd already resigned myself to dealing with Italian quality and reliability. Personally I think the Duc blows the MV and the Triumph out of the water on style.
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Jan 11, 2013 02:57
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Look at that exhaust. Just look at it. The MV is the bike your heart wants.
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Jan 11, 2013 09:53
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I agree with Sagebrush, the triumph looks like someone photoshopped about 7 different bikes together. The design is all over the place. Buy the MV. This is coming from someone who never recommends Italian bikes.
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Jan 11, 2013 14:50
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ABS would be a tipping point for me, very strange that MV Agusta haven't included it. But it outsexes the Street Triple by a very wide margin.
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Jan 11, 2013 15:35
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obso posted:CV carbs are less susceptible to altitude changes than other carb types, however they are affected just the same. But you have it backwards, as you increase in altitude the oxygen lessens and the bike starts to run too rich. No risk of damaging your bike from it, just a loss of power. If you have mufflers with removeable baffles it's a good excuse to pull them out. It will lean the mixture up some and get some of the power back. Running rich can damage your bike, but it takes a lot longer. Unburnt fuel will wash oil from the cylinder walls and can ultimately cause scoring and ring damage. Of course, this won't happen very fast (unlike lean mixtures in the needle and main circuits burning valves), so suffering a little richness for a trip to the mountains is NBD. I wouldn't move to Denver without re-tuning though.
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Jan 11, 2013 16:40
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I hate the new streety, which is a shame because the specs are better between 2012-13, more efficient fueling, lower COG, better seat... And I still wouldn't trade my 12 in for the 13 because it is ugly as gently caress.
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Jan 11, 2013 17:02
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The headlight decision will never, ever look good to me. I know people bitch about the S1000rr mongoloid headlights and such but gently caress what were they thinking here?
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Jan 11, 2013 17:51
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They copied the previous title holder for "worlds ugliest headlights", the old street triple.
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Jan 11, 2013 18:13
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JP Money posted:The headlight decision will never, ever look good to me. I know people bitch about the S1000rr mongoloid headlights and such but gently caress what were they thinking here? The old-style round headlights turned a lot of people (myself included) off the original Street and Speed Triples. Triumph probably thought they could capture those who like their bikes pointier with last years headlight revision and this... whatever the gently caress this is - the problem is that Ducati, and to a lesser extent Aprilia and MV, have already got the "pointy naked European bike" market sown up. I can't see someone who was going to buy a new-shape Monster or a Shiver or even (until now) a Brutale going "Hmm... that triumph now has pointy bits too, I will ignore the random application of colour and buy that instead". Mind you maybe they feel like they can get away with that because the reputation of the S3 is that strong that people will buy them no matter what they look like, and now they can get a shot at the curvophobe market too.
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Jan 11, 2013 18:22
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goddamnedtwisto posted:The old-style round headlights turned a lot of people (myself included) off the original Street and Speed Triples. Triumph probably thought they could capture those who like their bikes pointier with last years headlight revision and this... whatever the gently caress this is - the problem is that Ducati, and to a lesser extent Aprilia and MV, have already got the "pointy naked European bike" market sown up. I can't see someone who was going to buy a new-shape Monster or a Shiver or even (until now) a Brutale going "Hmm... that triumph now has pointy bits too, I will ignore the random application of colour and buy that instead". Outside the UK, maybe, but I always figured triumph got a free pass to sell as many bikes domestically as they produce due to a combination of patriotism, local parts and servicing availability, and generally building the types of bikes that go down well with the British consumer. Aesthetics never really factored in to it.
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Jan 11, 2013 19:14
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Linedance posted:Aesthetics never really factored in to it. As I understand it, this applies to everything from Great Britain.
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Jan 11, 2013 19:18
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Snowdens Secret posted:The ST3R is kind of surprising in how down-spec it is for an R, but in the States it's cheap - $1600 less than the base Daytona with essentially the same kit and thousands less than the Daytona R with Ohlins. It's a first year bike so demand will be higher but you're more likely to be able to play the dealers and get a better real world deal than I think you would with MV. I do think it's got a touch too much plastic, though. The outgoing ST3/ST3R are cruder bikes but cleaner looking and supposedly wilder, and if you find a last year's model (still new) the money you save might just pay for tasty Ohlins/Brembo. I'd think about that option. Yeah, the old ST3R can be had for 84900 SEK (≈12000 USD) from the few dealers that still have one. If anyone still has one when it's time, I'll at the very least go look at one. No ABS on the old model though.  The Duc SF 848 is at least 15kg (30lbs) heavier than the ST3, and it starts around 133000 SEK (19000 USD). Another bike that also can't be had with that ABS-thingy. What Aprilias do you have in mind? The price on the Touno (156000 SEK, 22000 USD) puts it way above the others. The reason all the prices in USD are so high (besides the fact that bikes are more expensive here) is that the USD is at it's lowest for 18 months against the SEK right now, and it isn't far off from lowest ever. So I'm just putting it in there as a way for others to compare them.Ola posted:ABS would be a tipping point for me, very strange that MV Agusta haven't included it. But it outsexes the Street Triple by a very wide margin. Yeah, I'd really like my new bike to have ABS. I mean, it still is essential to know proper braking, but knowing that you can just squeeze that handle as hard and fast as you want if need be when it's wet outside... People posted:At a $500 US difference, buy the drat MV. Well, most people here seem to know what I should get. Thanks for the input so far, everyone.
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Jan 11, 2013 20:30
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goddamnedtwisto posted:The old-style round headlights turned a lot of people (myself included) off the original Street and Speed Triples. Triumph probably thought they could capture those who like their bikes pointier with last years headlight revision and this... whatever the gently caress this is - the problem is that Ducati, and to a lesser extent Aprilia and MV, have already got the "pointy naked European bike" market sown up. I can't see someone who was going to buy a new-shape Monster or a Shiver or even (until now) a Brutale going "Hmm... that triumph now has pointy bits too, I will ignore the random application of colour and buy that instead". Originally a streetfighter was a superbike that had been smashed, with the fairing destroyed, the bare minimum (lights, dash cluster) re-installed and dirtbike bars thrown on. If that happens to a bike that looks like this:  The end result is a bike that looks a lot like this:  It's a good look for a brawler but a bit dated and no one has a dual-round-headlight superbike any more anyway. And honestly those headlights suck for putting out usable light. I'm not a huge fan of the S3's new lights (or how the lenses keep shattering) but it's not like any other nakeds/streetfighters have stunning faces either. You either have the boring and 2-dimensional pseudo-retro (Duc Monster, MV) or something that looks like a Evil Space Welding Helmet (CB1000R, Duc Streetfighter, B-King, BMW R). Oh, and the Tuono, Angriest Of Hornets. The Superduke face might be the best looking but even then it's pretty plain. I've said before, Triumph basically could've had the Daytona 675 headlights just floating unfaired in front of the headstock and it would've looked better, or even something like the Tiger 1050, but putting out a design that doesn't even use projector beams in the 20-Teens is kind of lovely.
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Jan 12, 2013 03:58
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 What do you mean you don't love it!?!?!?
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Jan 12, 2013 04:14
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The bike Batman should have been riding. And I dunno, my S3's lights put out a ton of light, especially on high.
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Jan 12, 2013 04:19
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Z3n posted:
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Jan 12, 2013 05:11
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Kastivich posted:I could use some assistance on diagnosing a carb issue. The bike is a 2007 TW200. When I got it the bike had been sitting for a bit and wouldnt idle well. It would stumble and eventually stall. I tore the carb apart and cleaned everything with carb cleaner and compressed air. I replaced the float bowl gasket and the fuel valve. After re-installing the bike idles cleanly but it will hang if you rev the bike up and close the throttle. The RPMs just hang at whatever they were when you closed the throttle. If you leave it in gear and let the clutch out you can "drag" the rpms back down to normal idle. I checked the throttle cable and throttle body and they are both closing correctly. Quoting myself and dragging this up from many pages back. Following some advice from a couple of people I tore the carb apart again and replaced the pilot jet, main jet, and needle. And... no change. The RPMs are still hanging. I'm now out of ideas about what could be causing this. To summarize, I've cleaned the air filter and spark arrester, taken the carb apart three times and cleaned it with carb cleaner/blown out the passages with compressed air. I've replaced the pilot screw, the pilot jet, the main jet, the needle, the fuel valve, and the float bowl gasket. What am I missing here?
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Jan 12, 2013 07:04
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Intake leak. Spray WD40 or something similar around the intake boot and see if the idle speed changes. If it does, you've got an intake leak. Check if there's an oring in the intake boot, something is causing it to suck in additional air or it's not seating correctly.
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Jan 12, 2013 07:09
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Yeah definitely sounds like an intake leak if you're sure you got the carb clean. If you don't want to hose everything with wd-40 or starting fluid an unlit propane torch works well for finding leaks. Pretty sure the tw200 intake just has a paper gasket sealing it to the head. Take a close look at the vacuum nipple coming off of it, they like to crack there. You sure that when you buggered the pilot screw o-ring you didn't shove a piece of it down into where the pilot screw seats? Also how many turns are you tuning the pilot screw out? obso fucked around with this message at 17:00 on Jan 12, 2013 |
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Jan 12, 2013 16:56
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Nidhg00670000 posted:Yeah, the old ST3R can be had for 84900 SEK (≈12000 USD) from the few dealers that still have one. If anyone still has one when it's time, I'll at the very least go look at one. No ABS on the old model though. The Shiver 750 (which you can get with ABS) is the bike most often compared to the Street Triple. Performance-wise the Triumph edges it but the Shiver has more torque and the clever fly-by-wire throttle which is much less gimmicky than you think, even if you never ever use the rain setting.
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Jan 12, 2013 17:18
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Covert Ops Wizard posted:And I dunno, my S3's lights put out a ton of light, especially on high. Got no complaints about the output on my (2009) S3R either. On highbeam you can see through walls with it. Can't believe how ugly the new model ones are! At least when they went from the round headlights to the polygonal ones they kept the rest of the styling. The new one makes the ER-6n look pretty. Shouting Melon fucked around with this message at 06:18 on Jan 14, 2013 |
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Jan 14, 2013 06:14
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Are wispy grayish streaks in engine oil indicative of anything? I changed the oil in my '04 zx6r on Saturday (first oil change for the bike). Oil was dark brown otherwise (changed over the summer at dealership by PO). It's been in heated storage and was taken out for a short riding while in 50 degree weather, before the oil change itself. Doing some internet research on Ninja-focused forums, this seems to be from condensation. Just wanted to confirm and dispel any notions of horrific P.O.-related poo poo.
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Jan 14, 2013 23:43
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Whispy gray streaks in your oil means your rings are already gone. I'd be surprised if your cylinders still have more than 100psi compression if you're already seeing metallic flake in your oil. It forms those patterns due to the the rings being ferrous and aligning themselves in the oil. It's for sure the ring material unfortunately. That's going to require a tear down and new rings, seals, etc. Dark brown oil means it was burnt from all the heat of the rings scorching themselves on the walls of the cylinders. Sorry man
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Jan 14, 2013 23:58
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JP Money posted:Whispy gray streaks in your oil means your rings are already gone. I'd be surprised if your cylinders still have more than 100psi compression if you're already seeing metallic flake in your oil. It forms those patterns due to the the rings being ferrous and aligning themselves in the oil. It's for sure the ring material unfortunately. That's going to require a tear down and new rings, seals, etc. Or it could be the usual darkness that oil picks up after a few thousand miles combined with a short ride that's not long enough to burn off all the random moisture that shows up when bikes don't get ridden.
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Jan 15, 2013 00:11
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Z3n posted:Or it could be the usual darkness that oil picks up after a few thousand miles combined with a short ride that's not long enough to burn off all the random moisture that shows up when bikes don't get ridden. drat. I was hoping we'd get at least a few posts in to scare him before someone gave up the joke. It's normal oil stuff. Especially if it's been sitting and you just now heated it before changing the oil. I wouldn't worry about it. Monitor it next oil change but I wouldn't be concerned at all really. Oil gets a bit darker as it goes.
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Jan 15, 2013 00:15
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Grey usually means semen. Lots of semen.
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Jan 15, 2013 00:23
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The engine runs less smoother than before I did the oil change - or it could be psychological. Either way, does this mean a new, massive infusion of semen is needed? I love my zx6r, and have been routinely pushing the engine hard since I got it in August. Of course, always after warming it up. It would be horrifying if there was anything like a blown head gasket that I've been overlooking, despite my gracious treatment. I knew it was nothing when I saw the old oil, but I just needed some warm confirmation (with a side of depravity).
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Jan 15, 2013 00:33
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JP Money posted:drat. I was hoping we'd get at least a few posts in to scare him before someone gave up the joke. It's normal oil stuff. Especially if it's been sitting and you just now heated it before changing the oil. I wouldn't worry about it. Monitor it next oil change but I wouldn't be concerned at all really. Oil gets a bit darker as it goes. Aww you played it too close to the chest and I'm having too bad of a day to pick up on it
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Jan 15, 2013 00:54
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When I did my first oil change on the KTM it looked like streaks of cream in espresso. Just moisture emulsifying in the oil from short journeys, I make a point of taking a really good long ride on the weekends and changing the oil nearly twice as often to counteract the effects of my woefully short commute (about 5mi).
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Jan 15, 2013 10:45
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the walkin dude posted:I changed the oil in my '04 zx6r on Saturday (first oil change for the bike). the walkin dude posted:have been routinely pushing the engine hard since I got it in August. your oil may be normal but that's not a good habit.
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Jan 15, 2013 16:10
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To avoid emulsion, make sure to warm it up to operating temp every time you turn it on.. Or at least most times.
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Jan 15, 2013 17:00
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