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All of a sudden the $4k price checks out.
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Jan 11, 2013 19:35
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Rhyno posted:We just got back from checking it out. The interior is trashed, the CEL and brake lights are on, the top is torn and slashed on one side, it smelled like mold inside the car. I was told the odometer stopped working "about 20,000 miles ago." So even if he didn't think it was a tiny gay car I'd have warned him off of it. Mental note: avoid any CL ads with the phrase "The odometer reads..." Weasel words indeed.
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Jan 11, 2013 19:38
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Phone posted:All of a sudden the $4k price checks out. Indeed. Though the body was nearly flawless. I laid down alongside it to check for rust and barely saw anything. It had a Nardi steering wheel, is that some super rare thing?
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Jan 11, 2013 20:15
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It was rare on NAs, but relatively common on NBs as far as I can tell. The best part is it's not like it's a mechanical odometer - it's digital and fed by an electrical VSS. Good call to run the gently caress away.
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Jan 11, 2013 20:32
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See, I can do the right thing. So long as it doesn't involve my own vehicles.
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Jan 11, 2013 21:29
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Protip- if your miata doesn't start, seems like the battery is dead. Try turning the headlights on. If they turn on you have a blown 80amp fuse under the hood... I found this out the hard way today after checking lots of wires. By chance I flipped the headlights and then we realized they bypass the main fuse. $3.24 later my miata is running.
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Jan 13, 2013 02:47
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Hello. I just bought a 99 emerald green mica/tan with 69k mi. for $2200. I will not be posting any pictures due to shameful stock-ness, but here is the first thing I did that made it driveable at 6'2'', ebay 3'' deep $31 wheel + $11 hub:
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Jan 13, 2013 03:02
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I bought an Ebay wheel once because how bad could it be? It was just like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMxB4RpCDzA I threw it out after trying to drive down the street with it just once. It was so flexy it was terrifying.
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Jan 13, 2013 03:07
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I bought it as a test to see if a 320mm + 3'' deep wheel was exactly what I wanted. One of the admins on miataturbo had said this specific ebay one wasn't made of tinfoil, and I'm pretty happy with it for the price. It is certainly NOT as pathetic as the one in that video! My only complaint was that the auction was for a 320mm wheel but it measures ~345mm. Still better than the 365mm NB nardi that basically prevented my fat legs from using the pedals. When I find a racing seat to bolt to the floor, my opinion on this size/deepness may change.
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Jan 13, 2013 03:16
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Alright, just didn't want to have a bad situation go even worse if you never tried flexing it and then it breaks when you're trying move quickly. If it holds up then it should be fine for the life of the car, the only real problem with them is the quality is all over the place. Some are fine, some are a mess.
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Jan 13, 2013 03:26
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Put my NA up for sale because I don't feel like dealing with the rusted rockers, if I can get what I want for it it's gone, and I'm probably going to get into an NB because I've owned four Miatas and never owned an NB. I've driven them though and they feel a lot more solid, as they should with all that extra bracing underneath. And no more lifter noise yay! However I'm not taking a huge loss and might just be forced into dealing with the rockers 
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Jan 13, 2013 05:44
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I was offered a hardtop with no paint and lots of fiberglass damage (most of the rear edge, and both the mounting tabs were broken off) for $350, when i saw it i walked away. Did i make a mistake not buying it?
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Jan 13, 2013 19:48
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MattD1zzl3 posted:I was offered a hardtop with no paint and lots of fiberglass damage (most of the rear edge, and both the mounting tabs were broken off) for $350, when i saw it i walked away. Did i make a mistake not buying it? Nope.
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Jan 14, 2013 00:32
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Dear AI: gently caress O2 sensors. I spent half the day swearing at mine, and it refuses to shift. It'd help if I had some way to reliably get a wrench longer than about 6" to the thing. I left it soaking in PB Blaster and I guess I'll go beat on it some more tomorrow. Wideband gauge install? Piece of cake. Dropped into the eye vent like it was made to go there. Tapped the electric window connector for 12V, ran a dedicated ground to the engine block. My first auto wiring adventure, a no hassle experience (although somehow I managed to blow a fuse while doing it.) But getting out the stock O2 sensor, that's a different matter.
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Jan 14, 2013 03:37
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Hit the o2 sensor a few times over a day or two of driving so you heat cycle the pb blaster into the stuff. I had no stuck bolts when I tossed my turbo on using this technique.
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Jan 14, 2013 05:18
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So this summer I replaced the clutch and flywheel in my Miata. Well, a friend with access to a lift did. As of about 2 months ago it's started having a little squeak from the engine/transmission, but only when the clutch pedal is out. When I push it in the noise goes away. Everything I've searched online is backwards and pilot bearing, which is one of the reasons I did the job in the first place. Is this also a pilot/throwout bearing issue, or something else?
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Jan 14, 2013 06:43
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n8r posted:Hit the o2 sensor a few times over a day or two of driving so you heat cycle the pb blaster into the stuff. I had no stuck bolts when I tossed my turbo on using this technique. Did you need much leverage? And does it really help to do it when the exhaust is hot?
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Jan 14, 2013 08:48
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Mezmerized Machine posted:So this summer I replaced the clutch and flywheel in my Miata. Well, a friend with access to a lift did. As of about 2 months ago it's started having a little squeak from the engine/transmission, but only when the clutch pedal is out. When I push it in the noise goes away. Everything I've searched online is backwards and pilot bearing, which is one of the reasons I did the job in the first place. Is this also a pilot/throwout bearing issue, or something else? I dont know about backwards. I dont know the design of the mazda pilot bearing but it could be that it was improperly put in and the race was damaged. Either way it sounds like the transmission is coming out soon.
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Jan 14, 2013 17:40
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saint gerald posted:Did you need much leverage? And does it really help to do it when the exhaust is hot? You'd probably want the exhaust warm, but not hot. Run it for a few minutes at idle, then try it. That way, you expend the exhaust bung, but not enough to really heat up the sensor body. Definitely do the multiple applications of PB Blaster before that, though.
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Jan 14, 2013 18:05
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Sadi posted:I dont know about backwards. I dont know the design of the mazda pilot bearing but it could be that it was improperly put in and the race was damaged. Either way it sounds like the transmission is coming out soon. Well by backwards I meant that everything online talks about it squeaking when the clutch is in, but mine squeaks when the clutch is out, and stops when I push it in.
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Jan 14, 2013 19:08
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Your clutch pedal needs to be adjusted. The way it's set up now is allowing the pressure plate to slightly scrub the friction disc, and this is the source of the squeak. If you adjust the pedal, it'll go away.
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Jan 14, 2013 19:14
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saint gerald posted:Dear AI: You could just hit it with a torch for a few minutes. I had a stuck bolt on my seat when I changed my O2 sensors and it got them out no problem.
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Jan 16, 2013 04:28
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Dear AI I never thought it'd happen to me but...Anyway despite never actually being interested in a miata I'm going to be checking a 1995 w/ 138k miles on it tomorrow. The only problem I was told up front about was that someone recently slashed the rear-window open. What in particular do I need to be keeping my eye out for?
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Jan 16, 2013 22:09
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Rocker rust/rust, dents, dings. The radiators turn brown and crack because they're plastic. Minor oil leaks at the CAS and maybe valve cover gasket. That said, everything for the engine is cheap and can be replaced for beans. The original suspension is probably shot, too. Find one with a decent body with the options you want and go nuts.
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Jan 17, 2013 01:21
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After beating on my O2 sensor for ages, I still can't get the bugger shifted...and now the blessed thing won't start. Looks to be a fuel problem. The fuel pump isn't running, probably because it's only getting 1.5v to the red/blue wire on the connector at the top of the fuel pump itself. What could I have dislodged while trying to remove the O2 sensor that might cause that? I could conceivably have knocked anything on the driver's side of the engine compartment, perhaps something under the steering column, or maybe around the bottom of the manifold under the car. Further investigation: resistance between the blue/red wire at the fuel pump relay connector and the blue/red wire at the fuel pump connector is about 50k ohms. That doesn't seem right at all. saint gerald fucked around with this message at 04:02 on Jan 17, 2013 |
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Jan 17, 2013 03:01
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saint gerald posted:Further investigation: resistance between the blue/red wire at the fuel pump relay connector and the blue/red wire at the fuel pump connector is about 50k ohms. That doesn't seem right at all. I think I'm going to run a big-rear end jumper from the relay output straight to the fuel pump harness connector. That ought to confirm/eliminate a physical wiring problem, right? I really want this fixed by Sunday, as I have a date with an autocross...
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Jan 17, 2013 14:46
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If anyone goons want some megasquirt parts I have a poo poo load of random little peripheral bits like two of the 3.0 wiring harnesses, tuning cables, most of the leftover stuff to wire it in parallel (don't do this unless you hate yourself) etc- pretty much everything except the actual MS unit. Let me know. Not giving it away for free but certainly a lot lot less than you'd pay from their website.
Jean Eric Burn fucked around with this message at 02:27 on Jan 20, 2013 |
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Jan 20, 2013 02:24
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Piano posted:If anyone goons want some megasquirt parts I have a poo poo load of random little peripheral bits like two of the 3.0 wiring harnesses, tuning cables, most of the leftover stuff to wire it in parallel (don't do this unless you hate yourself) etc- pretty much everything except the actual MS unit. Let me know. Not giving it away for free but certainly a lot lot less than you'd pay from their website. Sent you a PM!
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Jan 20, 2013 04:51
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I have some tears in my 2006 vinyl top. What's a good repair method/kit? There's one on amazon that gets lovely reviews. The miata.net guys have no consensus, but seem to like This tent repair kit.
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Jan 20, 2013 17:07
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Black (or whatever color your top is) duct tape or a new top. 
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Jan 20, 2013 22:18
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What do you guys think of this? http://richmond.craigslist.org/cto/3557180280.html Just emailed them. Also, he put his address in the listing and I can see the car in Streetview so I doubt it's a scam. I want to build a track car anyway, which would have eventually included reworking the engine and a turbo. If everything but the engine is good should I jump on this?
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Jan 21, 2013 16:37
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Grab a junkyard engine and put it in.
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Jan 21, 2013 16:44
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Dominoes posted:I have some tears in my 2006 vinyl top. What's a good repair method/kit? There's one on amazon that gets lovely reviews. The miata.net guys have no consensus, but seem to like This tent repair kit. I think the tent repair is more for the window than the vinyl. Don't they make vinyl patch kits that use something similar to an epoxy and a large vinyl patch?
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Jan 21, 2013 17:36
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Phone posted:Grab a junkyard engine and put it in. He just responded and said minor dings, no rust, no accidents. I'll try and go see it ASAP. I should probably just offer his asking price, or slightly lower. Even if I didn't keep it I could easily sell it for much more running.
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Jan 21, 2013 17:51
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Jealous Cow posted:He just responded and said minor dings, no rust, no accidents. I'll try and go see it ASAP. Do it, for a non rusty NB that is a steal. Engines aren't hard to come by
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Jan 21, 2013 18:42
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Nodoze posted:Do it, for a non rusty NB that is a steal. Engines aren't hard to come by Definitely a great deal, you can find $500 engines all day. Unrelated, but I just got a garage for my Miata, but it has no power so I grabbed one of these http://www.walmart.com/ip/Black-Decker-500-Watt-Power-Station/21804453 and a few florescent work lights. Going to set it up tonight and I'll definitely be posting some pics of the progress of the car. Plan now is to gut it and prep it for autox this march - so rust repair, wheels, tires, all fluids, and maybe some hawk pads.
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Jan 21, 2013 19:01
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Nodoze posted:Do it, for a non rusty NB that is a steal. Engines aren't hard to come by Here's what I got back from the guy: Craigslist Guy posted:Currently it's up at a dealership in Mechanicsville. I'll be going by this afternoon to take pictures, which I'll send you. I've had a lot of interest in it, so once I send the pics out and get reactions I'll know how to proceed. So that seems sketch, something tells me he'll be upping his asking price soon.
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Jan 21, 2013 20:11
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July 26-28th is the Miatas at the Gap event at Tail of the Dragon. I'm already on taking some vacation time and driving up from Florida. Any other AIgoons plan on going? Apparently last year there were over 400 Miatas spreading the  faced love at the gap.
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Jan 21, 2013 22:40
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Someone here has done a 1.8 swap before right? Is it as easy as people make it out to be? There a 1.6 for sale with a hard top at a good price and my friend has an extra 1.8 set up with a torsen that I could probably buy off him. This is all theoretical till I know for sure what happens with my car but trying to get an idea so I can act quick. Are d2's any good on miatas? The reviews I've read people seem to like them
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Jan 21, 2013 22:53
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grumplestiltzkin posted:July 26-28th is the Miatas at the Gap event at Tail of the Dragon. I'm already on taking some vacation time and driving up from Florida. Any other AIgoons plan on going? Apparently last year there were over 400 Miatas spreading the I'm planning to be there - but no Miata this year. It's always a good time!
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Jan 21, 2013 23:03
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