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Devyl posted:What should I be looking for when I look at 02-07 STIs for purchase? Sorry if it's been covered already. Don't currently have the time to go through 362 pages. Cheap mods without proper tuning (i.e. a downpipe or intake with no ecu relash) A leakdown test is a good idea Service history (timing belt, water pump etc at 105k) The 05+ got 5x114 hubs which are stronger and give you better wheel options
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Jan 23, 2013 02:04
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Totally TWISTED posted:I've seen conflicting reviews on the valve from full oil drainage issues (threads being too high) to leaking and the valve's durability from road and off-road debris. What's the SA consensus on them? Because my other reading has been NASIOC. I had one on my WRX, not sure on the drain issues but the big plastic cover should protect it from any debris surely.
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Jan 23, 2013 02:25
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jamal posted:Cheap mods without proper tuning (i.e. a downpipe or intake with no ecu relash) Cool. Got it. Any physical "quality control" things I need to be looking for? For example on fox body mustangs you can usually tell if the car's been to the track via a twisted/torn/refabbed torque box. Also, is the ECU actually sensitive enough to throw a fit even with just a plain CAI installed and no remap?
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Jan 23, 2013 02:58
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sanchez posted:I had one on my WRX, not sure on the drain issues but the big plastic cover should protect it from any debris surely. I saw in a NASIOC thread that in the 2012 Impreza it sits well above the subframe, so there is little chance of it being damaged, even the version with the nipple. I have one sitting on my desk, I'll install it when I hit 15k miles in about a month or so.
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Jan 23, 2013 04:00
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I had a fumoto on an '11 and ended up removing it. I didn't like how vulnerable and unprotected it was sticking out from the bottom of the oil pan. One good knock from debris and your oil comes gushing out. Also the way the valve is designed it wouldn't drain all the oil.. I'd have to unscrew the valve and a bunch more oil would pour out.
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Jan 23, 2013 04:28
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blargle posted:I had a fumoto on an '11 and ended up removing it. I didn't like how vulnerable and unprotected it was sticking out from the bottom of the oil pan. One good knock from debris and your oil comes gushing out. Also the way the valve is designed it wouldn't drain all the oil.. I'd have to unscrew the valve and a bunch more oil would pour out. I don't know about the internal designs of the oil pan, but there's about 3/8” of threads on this valve. I could see how there could be oil left in the bottom of the pan.
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Jan 23, 2013 04:45
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I filed a couple grooves through a few of the threads in order to drain the last bit of oil
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Jan 23, 2013 04:53
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chrisgt posted:First off, the pully with teeth bolts into the waterpump. Since you should be replacing the waterpump anyway, it's a non-issue. A new waterpump will have good threads in it. Oh drat! Thanks for posting this. I was about to go nuts drilling and tapping the hole. I would have killed myself when I realized that it was part of the waterpump.
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Jan 23, 2013 05:02
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FogHelmut posted:I don't know about the internal designs of the oil pan, but there's about 3/8” of threads on this valve. I could see how there could be oil left in the bottom of the pan. Yup, that was definitely why.
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Jan 23, 2013 05:15
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Devyl posted:Also, is the ECU actually sensitive enough to throw a fit even with just a plain CAI installed and no remap? You better believe it. I see idiots all the time throwing on random parts and proceed to not get it tuned for the new parts and then a month later blow it up. In my opinion the 05-06 STi's are the ones to buy. The 07s seem have engine issues and the 04s have the less desirable lug pattern. Jamal's advice is spot on. Also the oil pickup is a known weak point and is known to break.
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Jan 23, 2013 06:10
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G-Mach posted:
or not break. Depending on your luck and the alignment of certain key stars.
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Jan 23, 2013 07:09
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Amandyke posted:or not break. Depending on your luck and the alignment of certain key stars. I guess this is where I post catterristrage.jpg?  06 STI is what I'd be looking for but yes the pickups are notorious for unexpectedly failing. It's worth spending a few to get it changed.
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Jan 23, 2013 11:34
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G-Mach posted:You better believe it. I see idiots all the time throwing on random parts and proceed to not get it tuned for the new parts and then a month later blow it up. In my opinion the 05-06 STi's are the ones to buy. The 07s seem have engine issues and the 04s have the less desirable lug pattern. Jamal's advice is spot on. Im gonna second this; you see a lot of stories on NASIOC (I know, I know) where idiots just slap on an aftermarket intake and don't even bother with an off the shelf tune, let alone a proper one. 2 months later, bam, new engine.
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Jan 23, 2013 18:24
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Do the 2.5i models use the same pickup as the 2.5 turbos? I've got a 2006, which has the redesigned oil pan already. Just wondered about the pickup for  sake
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Jan 23, 2013 18:28
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Sockington posted:Do the 2.5i models use the same pickup as the 2.5 turbos? With turbos, there's a split in 2006 at least for LGTs. Some got the 2005 one, which is supposed to be better (I replaced mine when I rebuilt my motor though). Others got the 2007. I have no idea re:NAs.
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Jan 23, 2013 19:04
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As far as I know they are the same. I haven't compared part numbers though. By the way, I do carry these things:  And I get a volume discount if I order more than 5 if people wanted to do a group buy. jamal fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Jan 23, 2013 |
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Jan 23, 2013 21:32
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Soooo, I'm getting a P0011 CEL on my wife's completely stock 2009 wrx with ~80k miles. A couple days ago on a 600 mile drive home it came on while on the highway. I pulled over and found the oil was low and added about 1.5 qts to top it off. I cleared the CEL and we drove home. Earlier today on my wife's 70ish mile commute, the CEL came on shortly after passing someone, and she limped it home. I know the P0011 CEL can come up due to those banjo bolt filters getting clogged, especially when the oil change interval isn't adhered to well enough, and honestly I've been a little lax in that regards, with the last few oil changes closer to 4.5-5k than 3.75k. So, tomorrow I'm going to try and see if the passenger side ones are clogged, but I can't seem to find where exactly they're located despite searching, but saw one post saying the '09's were in a different location? Could anyone help me out? Also, the car seems to drive okay. There was a little hesitation on starting a couple days ago at a gas station, but I attributed it to be 5 degrees out.
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Jan 24, 2013 06:01
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jamal posted:As far as I know they are the same. I haven't compared part numbers though. Killer-B?
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Jan 24, 2013 06:17
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Yes Are you using synthetic? FSM says do an oil change and idle the car for 5 min. If that doesn't help, you've got to take apart and clean the oil lines and solenoids and remove the filters. Also this is a handy site: http://ken-gilbert.com/wrx/STi_Manu...20%28DTC%29.pdf jamal fucked around with this message at 06:33 on Jan 24, 2013 |
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Jan 24, 2013 06:28
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I'd be up for a group buy on the Killer B pickup. I live in the states.
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Jan 24, 2013 06:31
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I got mine from him already. The pickup, pan, and windage tray actually. Also the rest of my parts came in today, so now I need to figure out what to buy next, either suspension or fuel system. I guess il see how the autocross goes on Sunday first.
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Jan 24, 2013 08:32
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My Swaintech "White Lightning" ceramic coated equal length headers just got back from coating. The coating is thick.  They're going to be installed when I retune next week along with a methanol injection kit. 
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Jan 24, 2013 17:45
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I need to take my horrible 3" exhaust off and switch to a stock axle back. If I can't find an STi one, Im going to put my old WRX one back on. Is this going to ruin my tune? Or does going backwards on exhaust make the same difference as taking the stock one off and going to a 3" axle back?
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Jan 24, 2013 18:44
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I have a 2002 Forester with about 117k miles. Recently, I find sometimes when I press on the gas, the RPM rise and the engine revs, but power is not transferred accordingly to the wheels. It does this when I'm in motion - not when I'm going from a stop. It sometimes takes a second of this until the wheels engage fully. It's cold here now, and this problem started this winter, but it seems to happen when the engine has warmed up properly. Any idea what it could be?
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Jan 24, 2013 20:34
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me your dad posted:I have a 2002 Forester with about 117k miles. Recently, I find sometimes when I press on the gas, the RPM rise and the engine revs, but power is not transferred accordingly to the wheels. It does this when I'm in motion - not when I'm going from a stop. It sometimes takes a second of this until the wheels engage fully. It's cold here now, and this problem started this winter, but it seems to happen when the engine has warmed up properly. Sounds like your clutch is worn out
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Jan 24, 2013 20:39
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ChunksNensja posted:Sounds like your clutch is worn out This is an automatic. Would that still apply? A coworker suggested it may be the torque converter.
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Jan 24, 2013 21:04
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blindjoe posted:I need to take my horrible 3" exhaust off and switch to a stock axle back. You'll probably lose 5-10 hp but your tune should be fine. Supposedly with changing catbacks and axlebacks you don't need to be retuned.
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Jan 24, 2013 21:18
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Saw this on reddit, though it was cool as hell. Guy installed a Google Nexus tablet in the dash of his STI http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2459432
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Jan 24, 2013 21:27
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jamal posted:As far as I know they are the same. I haven't compared part numbers though. How much would it be for just the pickup, and how much for pickup/pan/tray? You can PM me if you don't want it public.
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Jan 24, 2013 21:35
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me your dad posted:This is an automatic. Would that still apply? A coworker suggested it may be the torque converter. Doesn't apply. Check the auto oil to see if its low or burnt. May need a flush
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Jan 24, 2013 21:44
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ChunksNensja posted:Doesn't apply. Check the auto oil to see if its low or burnt. May need a flush Cool, thanks I will do that.
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Jan 24, 2013 22:11
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How difficult is it to install the new oil pickup?
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Jan 24, 2013 23:00
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Not terrible, but fairly messy. You do need to raise the engine slightly to get the pan out and access the rear bolts. So remove intercooler, pitch stop, unbolt motor mounts, lift drivetrain an inch or two, remove pan. Then you've got to get all the oil and silicone off the sealing surfaces of the block and pan and make sure the flange on the pan is straight (it tends to get a little mangled from removal, I just use a hammer and eyeball it). http://www.killerbmotorsport.com/index_files/PickupPanInstallationInstructions.htm jamal fucked around with this message at 23:12 on Jan 24, 2013 |
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Jan 24, 2013 23:08
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It's been pretty cold here and my 2011 is getting slow to start in the mornings. Is it possible I need a battery already? I remember having a similar problem in my 2002 where the stock battery gave out after 2-3 years.
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Jan 25, 2013 04:19
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blargle posted:It's been pretty cold here and my 2011 is getting slow to start in the mornings. Is it possible I need a battery already? I remember having a similar problem in my 2002 where the stock battery gave out after 2-3 years. What oil are you running?
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Jan 25, 2013 04:29
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It's not just 08+ cars or even the factory battery. I've been going through batteries every 3 years or so on my 02 since I bought it new. The last two have been high CCA Die Hards, doesn't matter. At least they have a long prorated warranty so I never pay full price for a replacement.
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Jan 25, 2013 04:43
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It must be a cold climate thing, I think the battery on my car lasted about 5 or 6 years.
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Jan 25, 2013 06:00
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Wrar posted:It must be a cold climate thing, I think the battery on my car lasted about 5 or 6 years. My OEM battery lasted over 4 years, almost all spent in Nebraska (PO) and Minnesota, though it died after I moved to CA. edit: This was a 2005, so maybe it doesn't apply.
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Jan 25, 2013 07:01
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Mine's on the way out too, although I have no idea how old it is (at least 5 years). Good thing I get a discount on odyssey and braille.
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Jan 25, 2013 07:09
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I'm in the same boat with my 08. I know a battery is generally a battery - but without shelling out for an odyssey, what's a good go to brand these days?
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Jan 25, 2013 11:15
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