|
Kilersquirrel posted:I'd argue with the "no adjustable wrenches," they're handy to keep around for things like odd-sized or grossly-oversized nuts that were added specifically to make you buy expensive manufacturer's tools. I'm not saying I never used one, just that I regretted it every time I did. The one that's a hybrid with a vice-grips looks like it might be genuinely useful though http://www.safetydirect.ie/2700/Locking-Adjustable-Wrench/product.aspx
|
#
?
Feb 3, 2013 23:23
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 18:40 |
|
|
That thing is great, I may have to pick one up soon. I agree you shouldn't rely on or use adjustable wrenches on any normal basis, but I'm not going to shell out for a crazy-expensive custom-sized wrench so I can loosen my fuel tank nut once or twice a year either. Proper tools for proper jobs, but a Swiss Army knife is always handy to keep around too.
|
|
#
?
Feb 3, 2013 23:52
|
|
|
A ring spanner would have fit in there nice and easily, surely?
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 00:22
|
|
|
What the gently caress this is amazing.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 01:13
|
|
|
Kilersquirrel posted:I'd argue with the "no adjustable wrenches," they're handy to keep around for things like odd-sized or grossly-oversized nuts that were added specifically to make you buy expensive manufacturer's tools. I've never had anything but heartbreak when using an adjustable wrench. Always always use the proper tool. There is no such thing as 'one size fits all' when it comes to working on anything with an internal combustion engine in it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 01:29
|
|
|
echomadman posted:I'm not saying I never used one, just that I regretted it every time I did. The one that's a hybrid with a vice-grips looks like it might be genuinely useful though
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 01:56
|
|
|
MonkeyNutZ posted:I got all excited about that until I found that it only just locks the adjustment screw, I had hoped it actually clamped down when locked. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFzVBNq3uak
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 02:14
|
|
|
MonkeyNutZ posted:I got all excited about that until I found that it only just locks the adjustment screw, I had hoped it actually clamped down when locked. It does clamp down like vice grips. It's AWESOME. I bought a bunch when they dropped to $13 on Amazon then gave them out for Christmas.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 03:13
|
|
|
MonkeyNutZ posted:I got all excited about that until I found that it only just locks the adjustment screw, I had hoped it actually clamped down when locked. I owned one (probably still have it somewhere), and the jaws clamp down a bit, but not as much as with a regular vice grip.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 03:20
|
|
|
Well poo poo, I bought a regular crescent wrench last week based on the few reviews of that thing that said otherwise.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 03:24
|
|
|
TapTheForwardAssist posted:I got out of this without much tool investment, but it was a good reminder to have proper gear on hand. I've been getting by with a monkey-wrench, but a fixed socket/open metric wrench set is cheap and would be useful, ditto some Kroil and an impact screwdriver. might look into getting a set of crow's feet as well. http://2strokeworld.com/bikewiki/index.php?title=Tools Read on man. It took me awhile and more than a couple simple projects made long and aggravating but these days I just buy the correct tool for the job. Pick out some good sets and storage/transport and make an amazon wishlist. Get friends and family to help stock you up for whatever occasion. It makes everything so much easier to have the correct tool, and even better to not have to go chase for it mid-job.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 03:45
|
|
|
Halo_4am posted:http://2strokeworld.com/bikewiki/index.php?title=Tools Yeah, I need to finally just get around to stocking up on some Craftsman. For as much stuff as I'm removing on this bike, I think I'll finally need a torque wrench, and some kind of impact driver as mentioned above. I have a cordless drill, but will see if I can get by using my plug-in Dremel up in the apartment or whether I'll need a cordless. Finally got rid of my pinholed leaking tank; after far too many dumbasses contacting me on Craigslist there was one dude who was actually reasonable and non-flakey, so came and picked it up tonight. Apparently he plans to clean up and strip the leaky tank, and use it as a canvas for practising bike painting. So I'm glad to see that even a leaky tank still has some utility to someone. Now I have nothing left keeping me from cleaning the carbs.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 04:52
|
|
|
HotCanadianChick posted:I've never had anything but heartbreak when using an adjustable wrench. Always always use the proper tool. There is no such thing as 'one size fits all' when it comes to working on anything with an internal combustion engine in it. I've had relatively good luck, but then again I really only reserve mine for "wtf this isn't a real size" jobs or messed-up nuts/bolts that aren't going back in again. Which, on old UJMs, is an eventuality rather than a maybe. We're essentially on the same page, though. If I saw a friend using an adjustable on their axle nut, brakes, etc, I would probably have a minor stroke and politely school them on why they need to throw down on a decent mechanic's socket set. That locking adjustable still rules though, and I plan on getting it next time I need to clear $25 for free shipping.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 06:32
|
|
|
Safety Dance posted:I owned one (probably still have it somewhere), and the jaws clamp down a bit, but not as much as with a regular vice grip. Well that's fine because presumably you only want it to clamp down from "just wide enough to fit over the bolt" to "clinging like gently caress to the bolt".
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 08:50
|
|
|
Kilersquirrel posted:As a fellow owner of exclusively older Japanese bikes, I'm going to chime in and say get a set of the Grabbits or craftsman ez-outs, and a set of metal-oriented drills or step drills. They've come in enormously handy for me when dealing with the bottom-barrel pot metal screws the UJMs all have. Also, a set of Robogrip pliers for when nut heads deform and strip inside your wrenches. I concur with all parts of this post. My oil drain plug is a 27mm. That is a very nonstandard size, but I have a metric adjustable wrench that fits it great. The drain plug rounded on two corners because the PO torqued it to about thirty foot-pounds (40 NM), but the subsequent two-dozen oil changes have all been with that crescent and haven't resulted in any more damage. Also, TTFA: stop being such a crybaby about gasoline fumes. It's actually fairly tricky to blow yourself up with a gas tank, and a little (or whole hell of a lot) of gasoline on the ground isn't a dangerous thing for more than a few minutes. Be personable with your neighbors, and perhaps they won't immediately dial the police when they see you outside, regardless of whether you're working on your bike or not. In general, if you have a stuck and stripped screw, you can't make it "more broken." It's already useless and going to be replaced, so try whacking on it with a sharpish flathead screwdriver. They're usually pretty loose, and will come out easily. The worst you can do is slip with the screwdriver and break something you wanted to replace anyway.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 12:41
|
|
|
babyeatingpsychopath posted:but I have a metric adjustable wrench that fits it great. What's the difference between an metric and an imperial adjustable wrench?
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 12:47
|
|
|
One's right (metric) and one's wrong (imperial). On a serious note, I assume the only difference would be with the ones with size "locks" or notches, and the only difference there would be where they lock/where the notches are.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 12:52
|
|
|
Or the scales beneath the jaws are in correct, logical and easy to use millimetres on one instead of some science hating ongo-bongo fractions. Like so.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 12:57
|
|
|
Nidhg00670000 posted:Or the scales beneath the jaws are in correct, logical and easy to use millimetres on one instead of some science hating ongo-bongo fractions. Like so. who uses those scales? the amount of slop in most adjustables makes them notional at best.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 13:00
|
|
|
echomadman posted:What's the difference between an metric and an imperial adjustable wrench? It's an old mechanic's joke. "Hand me the metric crescent" and "gimme the 3/4 channel-locks" are staple jokes where I work. I did see a crescent wrench with metric marks on one side and imperial on the other, though. I was thinking of dropping $20 on it just to take to work for when that came up.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 13:06
|
|
|
I live on a boat and bike is my only transport, so my tool set is extremely cut down for practical reasons. Generally, I don't buy large sets of tools, instead I buy the best individual tool I can afford as I need it. If you're of a similar mind/situation, I recommend the first thing you buy is a compact 1/4 drive mini socket set. Bikes tend to have much smaller fasteners than cars on the whole and a 1/4" set will easily handle the torques required. I have one that's smaller than your average paperback but it will do almost everything on my bike. They don't make the one I have any more but it's a high quality kit like this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Teng-4-inch-Socket-Metric-Pieces/dp/B004UEHCMG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1359979400&sr=1-1-fkmr0 It will handle all but the heaviest jobs on a modern motorcycle and it will fit in a pouch or pocket. Add one of these too: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Teng-M140022c-Extension-Square-Drive/dp/B0001P0WNO/ref=sr_1_30?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1359979272&sr=1-30
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 13:07
|
|
|
goddamnedtwisto posted:Well that's fine because presumably you only want it to clamp down from "just wide enough to fit over the bolt" to "clinging like gently caress to the bolt". Exactly. It's perfect for what it was designed for, but it's less well suited for tasks like pulling apart .22 cartridges out of boredom than vice grips are.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 13:22
|
|
|
A question on slipper clutches - Why aren't they more popular? My KTM came with one, and I've got to say it's pretty great. I've gotten so used to it that when I've ridden other bikes without one I can end up chirping the rear tyre on a downshift when I'm pushing it. They're available aftermarket for a whole lot of bikes, but I don't see much evidence of people fitting them.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 15:22
|
|
|
Because I enjoy engine braking? I can see their use for racing, but to me it seems like something else to break and make my bike behave unexpectedly on the road. It's all down to preference, I guess, and I have clutch and friction zone control down to an art.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 15:25
|
|
|
ReelBigLizard posted:A question on slipper clutches - Why aren't they more popular? Because people don't realize how awesome they are, and for those of us that do, they're expensive as gently caress. I'd love to get one for my track bike, but I'm not going to drop nearly $1k on a clutch. Geirskogul posted:I don't realize how awesome slipper clutches are. vv Or adjusted to limit at too low a back torque. Zool fucked around with this message at 15:50 on Feb 4, 2013 |
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 15:46
|
|
|
The bike I was on must have had a lovely or broken slipper, then.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 15:49
|
|
|
Do slipper clutches just limit the amount of braking force the engine can put to the wheels? It seems like they'd be less awesome if they slipped on acceleration as well as deceleration.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 15:53
|
|
|
They only limit back-torque from the wheel, they would be very not awesome if they worked in both directions. It's as though, at a certain back torque (determined by the clutch springs), the bike automatically feathers the clutch for you.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 15:55
|
|
|
Speaking of using the right tools for the right job and how much lovely hardware sucks, I just replaced all of my fairing hardware with stainless steel hex head hardware. I can't tell you how much I hate flat-head screws and the fact that I needed 4 different tools to remove what are essentially all M5 and M6 bolts to get my fairings off. Best $25 I ever spent on the bike and I'm selling it within the month! Enjoy the beauty of quality mounting hardware, next owner.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 16:16
|
|
|
Is there anything special needed when trying to find a tow company to tow a motorcycle?
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 16:44
|
|
|
Halo_4am posted:
Don't know about those specialty two-stage screw extractors, but EZ-Outs and similar extractors blow goats. Instead, get some lefty drill bits for extracting bad bolts. The problem with EZ Outs comes from the fact that they don't drill out the fastener and will snap. When they do, you will never get the broken EZOut piece of hardened steel from the bad bolt. With a lefty bit, you use the same mechanical approach - it bores into the bolt counterclockwise until the resistance to drilling < resistance at the threads. If the corrosion ends up defeating the drilling resistance - NBD since you will end up boring through the bolt and can move up a bit to rinse/repeat until either the bolt has been reduced to threads or it gives and spins out. So if you have a stuck bolt that defies the Dremel+ flathead, vice-grips, etc. Go with a set of lefty bits, gently caress extractors. Also, pick up a decent set of metric taps and dies. Then you can tap new threads if you have to.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 16:47
|
|
|
Phone posted:Is there anything special needed when trying to find a tow company to tow a motorcycle? Flatbed, that's about it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 16:48
|
|
|
Yeah my slipper clutch still provides a metric rear end-ton of engine braking, but at the point where the engine would lock (I think it's to do with compression?) it just feathers the clutch enough to stop it. Giving you maximum engine braking without unsettling the bike in the corner. Also if you add a dab of back brake at this point the rear will break loose and you can back it in like a boss.Zool posted:Because people don't realize how awesome they are, and for those of us that do, they're expensive as gently caress. I'd love to get one for my track bike, but I'm not going to drop nearly $1k on a clutch. Thing is, most people don't think twice about spending more than that on a new exhaust system, I'd say it easily makes as much difference. ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 16:58 on Feb 4, 2013 |
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 16:52
|
|
|
If, IF you have a buddy with a towing vehicle, renting a motorcycle trailer from uhaul is like $20/day plus pitiful mileage. Way cheaper than a tow truck if the mentioned towing vehicle is on hand.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 16:52
|
|
|
Geirskogul posted:If, IF you have a buddy with a towing vehicle, renting a motorcycle trailer from uhaul is like $20/day plus pitiful mileage. Way cheaper than a tow truck if the mentioned towing vehicle is on hand. $25 from Home Depot, and the trailer is much nicer (if you can find a Home Depot with trailers). That's how I move my bikes when I have to move my bikes.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 17:13
|
|
|
ReelBigLizard posted:Yeah my slipper clutch still provides a metric rear end-ton of engine braking, but at the point where the engine would lock (I think it's to do with compression?) it just feathers the clutch enough to stop it. Giving you maximum engine braking without unsettling the bike in the corner. Also if you add a dab of back brake at this point the rear will break loose and you can back it in like a boss. Yeah the difference is that an exhaust sounds the same if you're Rossi or on your first ride. A slipper clutch actually requires knowing how to ride to be useful.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 18:55
|
|
|
Slipper clutches are awesome, and are mainly a safety feature for people who don't know or push a bike enough to use them as a performance feature. I LOVE them but the $1000 to put one in a bike that didn't come with one always seems to go to tires or gas because with skill you can live without one and be fast as all hell.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 19:21
|
|
|
ReelBigLizard posted:I live on a boat and bike is my only transport Surely boats can take you places? 
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 19:26
|
|
|
For getting stuck, mangled screws out, I have one of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-reversible-impact-driver-set-93481.html It's bailed me out a few times on the DT. Just set it to "out", put it on the screw, and tap it a couple times with a hammer. It's unstuck every screw I used it on. And if it breaks, I've already got my $4.99 out of it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 19:29
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 18:40 |
|
|
I don't think my Buell uses any screws that aren't torx, but there's a bunch of mild steel fasteners though. A whole set of stainless steel fasteners is something like 80 bucks, which is okay by me, but I assume that if I go and change stuff like engine casing bolts I'll have to do the gaskets as well? On my old Yamaha I was never able to get out the weird, huge-but-flat Philips screw that holds in the tach drive, it leaked but in the end I just put tie wraps around the cable until it sealed. Also, these fuckers (mine were brass or something)  were completely square after a couple of valve adjustments.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 20:11
|
|