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It's more accurate to describe slipper clutches as slipping when they detect that the rear wheel is moving slower than the engine speed. The slower the rear wheel spins the more it will slip the clutch, ending with the slipper clutch setting a given equilibrium on how much slower than the engine speed the rear wheel will spin, as a ratio of overall engine speed. As long as the rear wheel has traction and you've got a 1/1 ratio of engine speed to rear wheel speed (through the gearing, obviously), the slipper clutch does nothing. When the rear wheel starts to spin slower than the engine speed, that engages the ramp mechanism and starts the clutch slipping, keeping the rear wheel moving until the rear wheel speed comes back in line with the engine speed.
Z3n fucked around with this message at 22:44 on Feb 5, 2013 |
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Feb 5, 2013 19:25
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Z3n posted:When the rear wheel starts to spin slower than the rear wheel, 
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Feb 5, 2013 22:36
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Fixed, thanks 
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Feb 5, 2013 22:45
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Ok, a pair of questions about a 79 Honda CM400: 1. There's a shitload of red dust on the rear wheel, on the same side as the drum brake. Is this basically a byproduct of using the rear brake? 2. If I'm going along and quickly go WOT, the engine seems to... get noisier, spin faster, but the bike doesn't really have a jump in acceleration. This is only when the tach is up around the 9k RPM mark, just short of redline, so it's not something you'll hit much in regular riding, but it bugs me. Any ideas? And one general question: Any tips on loosening spark plugs? These ones seem to be really stuck in there pretty good, and I don't want to get too insane with the tool lest I should slip and shatter the plug. Will a shot of Deep Creep help loosen them?
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Feb 6, 2013 01:47
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1. Probably need to check on the shoes and pads. 2. Your clutch is slipping. 3. Something down there to loosen up the plugs is fine but only do it when you're ready to change the plugs. Then put some antiseize on it.
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Feb 6, 2013 01:55
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Z3n posted:1. Probably need to check on the shoes and pads. 1: Yes 2: Yes (unless you mean it's just getting noisier without spinning faster, but if it spins faster without speed increase, then the clutch needs adjustment/is gone) 3: Yes and also use a T-bar to get the plugs out. The one supplied with the bike (if yours still had the tool kit) is perfect. Keeps you from putting too much offset force on the plug.
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Feb 6, 2013 02:11
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The engine spinning thing can happen if the clutch cable is too tight. Adjusting it is free, I'd look there first.
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Feb 6, 2013 02:46
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clutchpuck posted:The engine spinning thing can happen if the clutch cable is too tight. Adjusting it is free, I'd look there first. This seems to have done the trick, I had also been noticing how tight the cable seemed. I put a little bit of play into it and as of this morning wasn't able to reproduce the slipping clutch, so I think we're good. Noticed yesterday that when I sit down, the rear suspension gets pretty drat close to bottoming out. I know I'm kind of a fatass, but I don't think I'm *that* fat; where's a good place to get new shocks? I've got a t-bar that came with the bike; I was using it before but gave up due to skinned knuckles. I guess I'll put on a pair of gloves and give it another shot.
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Feb 6, 2013 18:57
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Pham Nuwen posted:This seems to have done the trick, I had also been noticing how tight the cable seemed. I put a little bit of play into it and as of this morning wasn't able to reproduce the slipping clutch, so I think we're good. Have you tried adjusting the shocks' preload?
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Feb 6, 2013 19:06
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I'm actually getting a sizeable tax return this year. Aside from finally getting new tires and brakes for my car, I'm looking at getting a top case rack and top case for my bike. For the case, I'll probably just go with JC Whitney. Anyone have experience with them? I'm looking at something like this for the top rack but have no idea what to actually get. Monokey? Monolock? Which would work with a JC Whitney case? I'm so confused.
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Feb 7, 2013 17:12
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Pope, if you're talking about one of these hardcases that JC Whitney sells, I'd be leery of trying to mate them up to the Givi rack you linked. It looks like they use the same mating system - pucks on posts at the back of the rack, and a lock tab up front - and can be made to fit with some filing to the case's puck slots. The Whitney case comes with its own universal mounting pad that you would bolt to a flat tail rack, but the blog I linked to makes it sound like that pad is lousy. I've had pretty good luck with the Givi cases on my weestrom - they've absorbed a couple of parking lot drops with little damage except scuffing the plastic a bunch. Can't speak to the quality of the Whitneys, but I've also used SHAD on two bikes, which run a hair less expensive than Givi for still decent quality. Phy fucked around with this message at 18:49 on Feb 7, 2013 |
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Feb 7, 2013 18:45
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So I'm bleeding my brakes, and the banjos keep leaking fluid when the brakes are under heavy pressure. These are galfer stainless lines with new crush washers. I'm bleeding as you'd expect, squeeze, open the bleeder, close the bleeder, release the lever. Then doing the same at each banjo connector at the MC and each brake, cause it still feels like there's air in the system. I *think* what's happening is that I'm crushing the washer, and then when I crack the banjo to bleed there, it doesn't re-seal at the washer. Is there a better technique I could be using? Does bleeding the banjo actually help anything, or is that one of those useless mechanic apocrypha?
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Feb 7, 2013 23:21
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Mr. Eric Praline posted:So I'm bleeding my brakes, and the banjos keep leaking fluid when the brakes are under heavy pressure. These are galfer stainless lines with new crush washers. I've found in the past that bleeding at the banjo on the MC is helpful and does work. Can't imagine why you're getting poor sealing afterward though; are you sure it isn't just a case of you not tightening hard enough? Also are you certain it's actually leaking through and not just left-over brake fluid being squeezed outward when you tighten the bolt? Try bleeding like this instead: submerge your bleed tube in a transparent bottle of brake fluid, open the bleed screw and just keep slowly pumping the brake lever (while keeping the reservoir topped up obviously). Do this until bubbles stop coming out. You don't need to close the screw after every bleed because the bottle ensures only fluid is drawn back in, not air. This method works 99% of the time for me.
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Feb 7, 2013 23:25
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You shouldn't need to bleed at the banjos. Copper crush washers are basically one-use, the copper work-hardens when you squash it. I use a bit of aquarium tube on the bleeder, looped up and over the bars and down to my catch bucket. Then I pump the brake slowly while pouring fresh fluid into the reservoir until the fluid coming out is the same colour as the one going in. Then I do the normal squeeze-crack-tighten on each bleeder.
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Feb 7, 2013 23:32
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Slavvy posted:I've found in the past that bleeding at the banjo on the MC is helpful and does work. Can't imagine why you're getting poor sealing afterward though; are you sure it isn't just a case of you not tightening hard enough? Also are you certain it's actually leaking through and not just left-over brake fluid being squeezed outward when you tighten the bolt? Normally that's exactly the procedure I follow. The only difference is that this time I'm putting on brand new lines, upgraded MC, and rebuilt calipers, so they're starting out bone dry. I've tried all the tricks I can find online, but the thing still feels spongy and the lever pulls back to the handlebar. This leaking banjo problem is new to me.
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Feb 8, 2013 00:06
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ReelBigLizard posted:You shouldn't need to bleed at the banjos. Copper crush washers are basically one-use, the copper work-hardens when you squash it. You do if you're replacing pipes or MC, it's otherwise very difficult to get the air out of the MC entirely. VTR1000's are notorious for this, amongst other bikes. I got the impression from his mention of SS lines that he's replacing the lines and not just bleeding for thrills. I've re-used copper washers a bunch of times without any real issue. edit: thought so. I'd try getting some new washers if it's cheap and easy, then bench-bleed the MC beforehand and try again without doing banjo bleeding. If you still get seepage despite everything, I'd start questioning the mating surfaces themselves or whether the correct washers are being used.
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Feb 8, 2013 00:07
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Phy posted:I've had pretty good luck with the Givi cases on my weestrom - they've absorbed a couple of parking lot drops with little damage except scuffing the plastic a bunch. Can't speak to the quality of the Whitneys, but I've also used SHAD on two bikes, which run a hair less expensive than Givi for still decent quality. My FZ6 came with the Monokey top case mount. I ended up picking up the Givi E45NJ Economy Case this week from a local place. It's a monster at 45 liters. It's much more boxy than the current "spaceship" designs, which I think gives it a bit more internal room.
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Feb 8, 2013 01:46
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I'm trying to find some risers to make my dirtbike handlebar raise about 1'' more for my Ninja. I keep on finding pivoting risers or risers that are reviewed to be of questionable quality, or those with no reviews. I'm not sure which ones to get for my Ninja. Can anyone help?  My handlebar setup as is right now. Assuming 7/8''.
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Feb 8, 2013 02:55
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My brain breaks looking at that picture.
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Feb 8, 2013 03:48
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Just get a random taller set of bar mounts.
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Feb 8, 2013 05:53
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Z3n posted:Just get a random taller set of bar mounts. While you're at it, you can switch to a fat bar.
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Feb 8, 2013 07:41
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Also a good idea.
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Feb 8, 2013 08:09
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Let me make sure I've got this right: a .05mm change in valve shim thickness yields a ~.002" change in clearance, yes?
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Feb 8, 2013 11:49
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Feb 8, 2013 12:09
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Yeah I did the conversion, smartass. Clearances are measured in inches while shims are in mm at .05mm increments, right?
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Feb 8, 2013 12:13
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Are they? My KTM manual states everything in SI units, my gauges are in SI units and my shims come in SI units.
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Feb 8, 2013 12:23
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SI supremacy.
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Feb 8, 2013 14:33
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Why is switching over to a fat bar, a good idea?
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Feb 8, 2013 16:33
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Just google: "Fat bar review" I'm sure it will yield helpful information. Fatbars are stronger, less likely to bend. That's the advantage I'm sure of, they might also transfer less vibration to your hands, but that's an assumption.
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Feb 8, 2013 16:40
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EDIT: I'm a moron, I meant 1/4" socket set, the smaller size. I'd never considered getting a The torque wrench selection is smaller for 1/4", but still a number of options. Are there any other cool socket-related items that are only available in 3/8" format that I need to keep my current set around for? Or should I maybe get rid of my cheap Taiwan 3/8" set, get a nice 1/4" socket metric Craftsman set and 1/4" torque wrench, and get just a used decent 3/8" handle (not a set) and just one or two of the hugest sockets for it for tackling the occasional large bolt? TapTheForwardAssist fucked around with this message at 18:29 on Feb 8, 2013 |
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Feb 8, 2013 17:34
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:I'd never considered getting a 1/2" socket set until one of the posters a few pages back recommended it. I was concerned about tackling the bigger bolts, but from what I'm seeing the Craftsman 1/2" 24-piece goes up to 24mm standard and 21mm deep. Is that enough to cover basically everything on most UJMs (are the axles the largest bolts?) or do I still need to have a 3/8" also to work on Japanese bikes? I keep a 1/2, 3/8 as well as a 1/4" drive set. I'd much rather use a tiny ratchet for my bikes ignition then sit there for 5 minute cursing at the open ended wrench. Don't get rid of it, buy a nice toolbox instead and keep everything. You WILL use it again, trust.
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Feb 8, 2013 18:23
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:I'd never considered getting a 1/2" socket set until one of the posters a few pages back recommended it. I was concerned about tackling the bigger bolts, but from what I'm seeing the Craftsman 1/2" 24-piece goes up to 24mm standard and 21mm deep. Is that enough to cover basically everything on most UJMs (are the axles the largest bolts?) or do I still need to have a 3/8" also to work on Japanese bikes? I know you mean 1/4" here. In my experience, the craftsman 1/4" drive set is awesome for almost everything bike related. For torque wrenches, I have a 1/2" drive that goes up to axle bolt torque, and a 3/8" drive that goes down to 35 in-lb, below which I know it's "pretty tight." The only 1/2" drive sockets I have are: Axle nut, front sprocket nut, and front sprocket nut retaining nut. I got those for like $1-2 each at Harbor Freight. For everything else, I use Craftsman converters, to go from 1/4 to 3/8 or vice versa. It's been my experience that a 3/8" breaker bar with a 1/4" adapter down to the socket you need will let you feel the torque a little bit better, so you don't round off bolt heads. Also, if you're converting up (from 1/4 to 3/8) and you shear the converter, Craftsman replaces those free. My toolkit is: Craftsman 154-piece mechanic's toolkit. 3/8" and 1/4" ratchets and sockets, a hand driver with a bunch of bits (my kit came with JIS and phillips!) and a bunch of allen keys. You can find the metric-aimed versions in the catalog. Craftsman 6-piece metric allen socket set. 1/2" torque wrench (big). 3/8" torque wrench (small). Craftsman 4-pc converter set. 1/4->3/8, 3/8->1/2, and their reverse. A couple of other specific 1/2" drive sockets for huge stuff. 3/8" Metric spark plug socket 3/8" breaker bar I found in a parking lot. Thickness gauges (for valves). I put the not-so-useful stuff from the big kit in a different box, and everything fits in that one suitcase except the torque wrenches. This kit, supplemented with the toolkit that came with the bike, has proved to be everything I need to get all the work done on the bike so far, and I've done everything except change the motor. Fairings, sprockets, valve checks, wheels, brakes, exhaust work, etc. If you bought everything at once, it'd be about $500, but you can catch a bunch of stuff on sale. That 154-piece is on sale at Sears right now for $100 (normally $150). Get your torque wrenches on sale, too.
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Feb 8, 2013 18:27
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:I'd never considered getting a 1/2" socket set until one of the posters a few pages back recommended it. I was concerned about tackling the bigger bolts, but from what I'm seeing the Craftsman 1/2" 24-piece goes up to 24mm standard and 21mm deep. Is that enough to cover basically everything on most UJMs (are the axles the largest bolts?) or do I still need to have a 3/8" also to work on Japanese bikes? Going up through 21mm and 24mm will cover most of the bigger socket needs. I know the sprocket nut for my Suzuki is bigger (30mm or 33mm?) but you can just pick up the oddball sockets as needed. Otherwise, the socket range I use most are 10mm, 12mm, with some 13mm/14mm (exhaust bolts), 17mm (peg bolts, brake calipers) and 19mm (to turn the motor). Also wouldn't the larger sockets come in 1/2" not 3/8"? If anything, you might have trouble with smaller fasteners (8mm, 6mm, etc.) and a 1/2" drive. But those won't need a torque wrench. Many of them are best handled with a 1/4" hex drive and ratcheted driver handle (like a ratchet screwdriver). I use that for breaking down carbs for instance which includes a 10mm needle seat and a few 8mm bolts.
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Feb 8, 2013 18:36
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Fatbars are not needed for street bikes - but they do look a bit cooler. I'd check out the clamp selection here: http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/t/44/54/229/982/Clamp-Kits I have a renthal fatbar I'd sell for $30 - I think it's pretty much in pristine condition. It's just been laying around.
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Feb 8, 2013 20:01
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I went with this - with a prospective Renthal Twinwall in mind (need that bracket thingy). What's that Renthal you've got laying around?
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Feb 8, 2013 21:19
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The only time I have really used my 1/4" socket set was with my bike. I have a kobalt set which is okay (I don't really like the ratchet. The switching mechanism doesn't stay in one direction). I have some 6 point impact sockets that work great for the big stuff. Those things are the bomb.
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Feb 8, 2013 21:56
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n8r posted:Fatbars are not needed for street bikes - but they do look a bit cooler. I'd check out the clamp selection here: Hmmm, I just might buy that from you if the dude doesn't want it. What's the details on the bar?
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Feb 8, 2013 21:58
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I just picked up a new restored Honda CB350F cafe and I've been riding it every day since I picked it up. It's a nice change of pace. I was wondering what cover I should use for a bike that's really short and thin. I have a giant pecan tree that loves to poo poo pollen all over everything in the spring so I'll need to pick one up pretty soon. The last time I bought a cover, I got "one that would fit" and it was constantly blowing off, catching pools of water and baggy. I'd like to get something that's taut.
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Feb 8, 2013 22:49
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How vital is the front fender forward of the forks? The front half of my fender busted off when someone knocked the bike over; the cops saw it on the ground and righted it, but there were bits of fender, signal, and mirror everywhere. Does the front half of the fender prevent that much fling of water/mud? If it's not going to result in a mess all over my bike, I'm tempted to just file the broken edges smooth and leave as-is, reasoning that since it broke off in the first place it's probably not meant to be on a streetfighter.
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Feb 9, 2013 04:52
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:How vital is the front fender forward of the forks? The front half of my fender busted off when someone knocked the bike over; the cops saw it on the ground and righted it, but there were bits of fender, signal, and mirror everywhere. Does the front half of the fender prevent that much fling of water/mud? I've seen bikes with about that much fender chopped off so it's not unheard of, I would just ride it and see if it kicks crap up in your face/under the bike and go from there.
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Feb 9, 2013 07:34
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