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He doesn't have a turbo motor, less parts to the puzzle.
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Feb 18, 2013 15:55
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Yakattak posted:As someone who's had his fair share of coolant issues, I've had 1 blown upper hose, a thermostat and a radiator go. Unfortunately the hardest one to find immediately was the radiator because it only leaked under pressure. Subaru radiators are bound to leak. Also a fairly common place is the line from the turbo reservoir to the turbo but try to let your car idle and rev the motor up. I've got a N/A, so no turbo reservoir. The radiator is a new Mishimoto as well as the hoses. I've got no current leaks, but no rad fans either. Going to drive it around a bit to get it up to temp and see what's up.
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Feb 18, 2013 15:57
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blargle posted:Saw a Focus ST in the wild today, those suckers are quick. He easily tailed me from 30-80 mph as I was entering the freeway from a ramp, and I'm at about ~290whp. Subaru definitely has some stiff competition for their next gen. That's likely because they are bone stock at ~230whp and ~270wtq. And cobb has an AP for them which raises tq by 18% on 87 octane. So like 320wtq at 2200 RPM...
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Feb 18, 2013 17:58
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jamal posted:Yep, do that. The SPT part replaces all of the linkage parts, which doesn't seem worth it. I would suggest all the bushings while you're at it though. I think I could come up with a package of some sort. So I was going to get bushings and I thought the cobb unit sounded good. I noticed that cobb uses urethane bushings compared to twm's metal ones. Would the urethane be just as good? Agent Adam fucked around with this message at 19:47 on Feb 18, 2013 |
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Feb 18, 2013 18:43
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Quick question: 1997 Legacy Outback 2.5 - sometimes it is very difficult to get the shift lever into 1st or 2nd gear, or shifting it into gear is "clunky" or rattley. It doesn't feel like it's within the gearbox itself, but instead in the linkage? Like I have to "bump" the shifter over an obstacle to get it into 1st. This is from a stop, BTW, because I know getting it into 1st while moving is supposed to be difficult (though it does make a "whirring" noise if I try to force the lever into 1st while slowing down).
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Feb 18, 2013 20:25
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My guess would be the synchro's are worn out on those gears, with the car being that old it doesn't seem too surprising, you don't have this problem with any other gears?
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Feb 18, 2013 20:36
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Nope, 3rd, 4th, and 5th slot in pretty easily. It's just recently (today, even) that it got really hard to engage 1st, and 2nd is coming along the same way. The motor and transmission mounts are absolutely gone, as well. 175,000 miles, new clutch at 150k.
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Feb 18, 2013 20:40
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Might be worthwhile checking the fluid level while you're at it too. The 5 speeds tend to get tetchy when they're low in my experience.
Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 21:01 on Feb 18, 2013 |
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Feb 18, 2013 20:56
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I'm no pro but the fact that it doesn't have trouble in the higher gears makes sense to me. Seems like more strain is put on the lower gears. I had a car with right around 600hp and I couldn't get into first without making a quick trip to second and it always helped to match rpms when shifting down to second. Don't know if that's helpful at all.
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Feb 18, 2013 22:36
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If I can't get into first after declutching a couple of times, I hit reverse then it slides right in. This is probably anecdotal bullshit.
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Feb 19, 2013 00:10
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I am picking up a new 3.6 outback tomorrow! What is the first thing I do to the funhog?
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Feb 19, 2013 01:41
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stevobob posted:If I can't get into first after declutching a couple of times, I hit reverse then it slides right in. This is probably anecdotal bullshit. That's how I did it in my old Mazda and my brothers 2001 ish outback limited. Always worked the other way round as well!
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Feb 19, 2013 03:33
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As far as shifting goes, the difficulty depends on how much of a difference the syncros have to overcome. So trying to shift into 1st at 20mph when the input shaft needs to be spinning at something like 6000rpm isn't going to go so well. The easiest time to get into 1st is right before the car stops when everything is spinning at about the idle speed of the transmission. I just had my clutch fork break and that was the only way I could get into 1st. Thankfully there was enough slip for the car to not stall at a stop. Now I get to pull the transmission at some point soon to replace it.Agent Adam posted:So I was going to get bushings and I thought the cobb unit sounded good. I noticed that cobb uses urethane bushings compared to twm's metal ones. Would the urethane be just as good? I believe the TWM still uses bushings and you need to put the stock ones into the shifter. The Cobb setup is neat in that you can adjust the height of the lever and the leverage ratio/throw length, but because of the way it's made the shifter knob will be offset a little farther back. Some people don't like it and I had one guy trade his because of it. I've always been partial to this combo: http://turninconcepts.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_9_7_481_499_1248&products_id=92 I have it minus the four u-joint linkage pieces because mine is older. Shifter feels really nice. Solid, no play, really direct feeling. Stiffer drivetrain mounts will also improve how the shifter feels because one end of the support for the shifter is attached to the chassis and the other end is on the transmission. jamal fucked around with this message at 05:55 on Feb 19, 2013 |
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Feb 19, 2013 05:52
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So we all agree that: 1: Shifting into 1st at a moderate pace should usually be difficult 2: Shifting into 1st at a stop is sometimes difficult for some cars but it depends on the car 3: If you have trouble shifting into 1st now whereas you didn't before, then the synchros are most probably bad 4: If you can get by with tricks like reverse -> 1st or slipping into 1st while crawling, then you're maybe okay but don't do it too long the transmission needs work eventually unless you're cheap maybe 'cause I have done that for awhile with my car but other people say it's bad okay then but I haven't had an issue who knows up to you man
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Feb 19, 2013 06:33
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burtonos posted:I am picking up a new 3.6 outback tomorrow! What is the first thing I do to the funhog? Clearly you need a roo-bar with about 6 hella driving lights. Or you could go the other way and get some of those pink supertones and put them in the grille...
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Feb 19, 2013 13:25
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Geirskogul posted:So we all agree that: On the older boxes, do not expect to be able to use first while the car is rolling unless your gingerly coming to a stop. I think in 07 they did something so you can actually use first, but everything before that, just suck it up and stay in second until you are stopped or about to stop. It's a subaru thing. Nothing to worry about.
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Feb 19, 2013 16:11
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I had posted that I couldn't get into first even while stopped, though, and the behavior was new.
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Feb 19, 2013 16:22
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You can double clutch pretty smoothly into first. It's not worth bothering though.
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Feb 19, 2013 16:24
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This thread has the memory span of a goldfish holy poo poo.
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Feb 19, 2013 16:28
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ssjonizuka posted:Clearly you need a roo-bar with about 6 hella driving lights. hella lights, hella horns, hella bar, hella lift?
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Feb 19, 2013 16:41
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Geirskogul posted:This thread has the memory span of a goldfish holy poo poo. I would start with changing the fluid if it hasn't been done in 30,000 miles. It probably won't help, but having old fluid isn't going to help either.
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Feb 19, 2013 16:51
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Slow is Fast posted:I think in 07 they did something so you can actually use first, but everything before that, just suck it up and stay in second until you are stopped or about to stop. It's a subaru thing. Nothing to worry about. In 06 they added triple cone synchros which I can personally attest don't really do much of anything.
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Feb 19, 2013 16:56
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I have to drill out the snapped off bolts for my Windshield wash bottle. Any idea what sized bit I should use?
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Feb 19, 2013 18:11
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m8x1.25
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Feb 19, 2013 18:29
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jamal posted:As far as shifting goes, the difficulty depends on how much of a difference the syncros have to overcome. So trying to shift into 1st at 20mph when the input shaft needs to be spinning at something like 6000rpm isn't going to go so well. The easiest time to get into 1st is right before the car stops when everything is spinning at about the idle speed of the transmission. I just had my clutch fork break and that was the only way I could get into 1st. Thankfully there was enough slip for the car to not stall at a stop. Now I get to pull the transmission at some point soon to replace it. Thanks man. I do like the fact that cobb let's you decide how high up/down you want the lever and lets you adjust the throw as well but I'm looking into that combo you sent too. Good info!
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Feb 19, 2013 18:54
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Yeah on one hand you can adjust it however you want, on the other hand once you set it the first time it probably won't change much. The throw on the KB is set to be shorter without being too short, which could make shifting harder and wear syncros out faster. You can add all the rest of the bushings to whichever lever you choose. Also you can get that stuff from me if you want.Geirskogul posted:I had posted that I couldn't get into first even while stopped, though, and the behavior was new. You should look at the joints in the u-joint linkage. If they are gone then a lot of the force coming from the lever gets wasted. When I pulled mine apart (you have to drill out a rivet or buy an entire new one for about $80) one of the bushings was not even there. If you have a ton of play while the car is in gear that could be part of the problem. If you haven't changed the fluid in awhile that's also a good idea. A lot of people swear by Subaru extra-s but I haven't actually tried it. Otherwise pulling the box and changing the syncros is something like 8-10 hours of labor and generally not worth it.
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Feb 19, 2013 19:29
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Slow is Fast posted:On the older boxes, do not expect to be able to use first while the car is rolling unless your gingerly coming to a stop. Ummmm.... why on earth would you want to shift to first while moving?
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Feb 19, 2013 22:43
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There's a cocktail of fluids you can use to help with the 1st gear thing. It's called the AndrewTech cocktail and it works fairly well. I can grab 1st at around 15 MPH now. I don't usually let the clutch out but to those of you saying why would you want first if you're not stopped. Try going from 10 MPH up hill in 2nd on a turbo car. Your turbo spools to 8 PSI and you go nowhere.
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Feb 19, 2013 22:57
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Cat Terrist posted:Ummmm.... why on earth would you want to shift to first while moving? I've noticed a lot of people tend to do it for some reason, I guess to anticipate starting moving again after a stop sign. The other day I was helping troubleshoot a misfire in an EVO a local kid had just bought, and getting off the highway he put it into 1st at 20-30 while coming to a stop. A friend of mine used to do it too until I noticed and explained to him why it was bad.
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Feb 19, 2013 23:06
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Cat Terrist posted:Ummmm.... why on earth would you want to shift to first while moving? Because 5mph in 2nd is stall city. I have to shift into 1st all the time while crawling along in traffic. And I'll be damned if I'm going to come to a full stop just to shift into 1st so I can continue crawling along at idle.
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Feb 19, 2013 23:26
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Amandyke posted:Because 5mph in 2nd is stall city. I have to shift into 1st all the time while crawling along in traffic. And I'll be damned if I'm going to come to a full stop just to shift into 1st so I can continue crawling along at idle. So why arent you using the clutch to slip a little bit, you can use it in traffic. And dont tell me it'll wear out faster, that's not necessarily true at all. Our cars can handle that kind of shuffling along without undue wear and tear. Plus, a clutch is a lot cheaper than a gearbox. quote:I've noticed a lot of people tend to do it for some reason, I guess to anticipate starting moving again after a stop sign. The only time I do it is in khanacross or rally and even then I would prefer not to. It's not good on the gearbox.
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Feb 19, 2013 23:47
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Live in a place with hills and get back to me about shifting into 1st while moving.
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Feb 20, 2013 00:03
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bull3964 posted:Live in a place with hills and get back to me about shifting into 1st while moving. This. Plus having an Outback with a 2.2 litre engine.
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Feb 20, 2013 00:11
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I sometimes shift into first while moving. When I do shift into first, I do whatever that thing is where you put the stick in neutral, let out the clutch, blip the throttle, put in the clutch, and then shift so the shifter goes into place easy. Is it really that bad for the gearbox? I always thought that you were golden as long as everything felt smooth and you weren't riding the clutch too heavily. How much can you ride the clutch before putting excessive wear on it?
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Feb 20, 2013 01:02
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Well, my engine is not blown! Good compression and leak down in all cylinders. The misfire above 5000rpm is still there, though. I'm wondering if it's a crank position sensor issue. Roman Rambo fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Feb 20, 2013 |
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Feb 20, 2013 01:13
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That's good news. Misfire in just one cylinder? do you have the leakdown numbers? Which injectors and how old are the plugs?powderific posted:I sometimes shift into first while moving. When I do shift into first, I do whatever that thing is where you put the stick in neutral, let out the clutch, blip the throttle, put in the clutch, and then shift so the shifter goes into place easy. Is it really that bad for the gearbox? I always thought that you were golden as long as everything felt smooth and you weren't riding the clutch too heavily. Double clutching, and yeah, that is the best way to get into 1st when you're moving. By revving the engine with the clutch out you spin up the input shaft, 1st gear, and syncros so they don't have to try to make up for a large speed difference. Clutch wear really depends on how much load you are putting through it while it slips. So a gradual slip barely off idle in 2nd will be fine. Doing a high rpm launch in 2nd not so much.
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Feb 20, 2013 01:46
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Polymerized Cum posted:This. Plus having an Outback with a 2.2 litre engine. Even with the 2.5 I still do it all the time at 5-10mph going up hills, especially in stop and go traffic on a highway. I just double clutch it and it slips right in, hardly any force required at all. The only time it doesn't work is when it's cold out (<40F) and the transmission hasn't warmed up yet. Then it'll feel like rowing a box of gravel but it still goes in okay.
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Feb 20, 2013 01:49
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bull3964 posted:Live in a place with hills and get back to me about shifting into 1st while moving. Mate, you just scored the best own goal of all time. I live in a place that has "Mountains" in it's name. A mountain range beats hill, dont you think?
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Feb 20, 2013 01:50
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Drove it today, and getting into first was fine while it was cold. After it warmed up, it started giving me grief. Pumping the pedal didn't seem to help. I'll change the fluid and put in the thicker cocktail; maybe it has something to do with thin or old gearbox oil.
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Feb 20, 2013 02:05
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jamal posted:That's good news. Misfire in just one cylinder? do you have the leakdown numbers? Which injectors and how old are the plugs? I actually don't know what cylinder the misfire is in. Compression is 140psi in all 4, leakdown is 5-7% all cylinders. Injectors are ID 1100cc, plugs were changed 3 months ago.
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Feb 20, 2013 02:32
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