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Canadians are super polite and are more likely to reflexively apologize for crashing even when they're not really at fault E: also something something heavy trucks leaking maple syrup on roads something something moose attacks Snowdens Secret fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Feb 21, 2013 |
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Feb 21, 2013 22:39
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M42 posted:I don't have any kind of vehicle insurance. Bf's got fancy-rear end federal worker discounted geico insurance though, so it looks like I'll be adding the bike onto that plan. I'll probably be doing higher than default bodily injury + under/uninsured motorist options. It'll still be cheaper than anything I can get through AAA/state farm/allstate/whatever else. (one of those was like, $400 a month I'd probably just go with liability only. The reaming on coverage will go down, and you won't be able to (or want to) collect on most newbie accidents on a $1500 bike. Comprehensive/UIM to cover theft, acts of god, etc, is probably not a bad idea, but I'd avoid collision for a bike that cheap, you'll pay more than it would cost to replace the bike over a year or so, and that's not counting the rate spikes/etc if you make a claim.
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Feb 21, 2013 22:43
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Sagebrush posted:Insurance cost depends extremely heavily on your specific circumstances and where you're located. In Canada as a new rider I was paying 1800 dollars a year for nothing but liability on a 40-year-old 350. If you can find someone to insure you on a supersport up there, you'll pay at least twice as much, and it doesn't go down a whole lot with age or experience. Fifteen hundred a year for a middle-aged accountant to insure his R1200 is totally normal. Funny that insurance is cheaper in the States and we avoid it, while you have to deal with that in Canada. Honestly if they told me it would be 1800/year for liability on that little Honda you have, I'd be doing everything in my power to ride uninsured. My bike is still insured thru my Dad's insurance still because they allow it and it's cheap as hell. He's been with State Farm since the dawn of time and has everything thru them, so there are some good discounts. They treat my FZ6 as a standard and I'm not arguing, full comp/collision/liability for it comes out to around 200/year. I'm sure it'll be worse when I go on my own, but nothing near the Canadian prices. Hell, we got a Ninja 250 for my sister to ride, and I'd have ask him to be sure, but as I recall it has the most complete coverage it can have and it costs around $35/ 6 months.
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Feb 21, 2013 22:43
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Part of it is that in Canada the legal minimum liability coverage for all motor vehicles is a million dollars (well, at least in Ontario). So you're already paying through the nose for that. Then add a country where most people only ride 5 months of the year so motorcycles are seen entirely as luxury toys, not transportation, and some kind of racket where the insurance companies do not compete in certain areas (don't know why) and you bring the price up even more. I have no idea why the liability is so high when we do in fact have fully covered emergency care, and even things like rehab and drugs that you do have to pay for cost orders of magnitude less than they would in the states. I'm going to say "because gently caress, why not?"
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Feb 21, 2013 22:45
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Clearly it's because of the invisible hand of the free market.  I can get 1 million in coverage but it's pretty pointless at this point in my life. When we get a house I'll end up with 1 million and then an umbrella policy over that, and then it might hit the 2k that someone pays for a Vstrom in canada. That's home insurance, vehicle insurance, motorcycle insurance, and whatever other insurance we have too.
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Feb 21, 2013 22:59
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I was fudging around with my handlebar on my '04 zx6r (taking it off, etc), and noticed that the bar mounts were loose. The triple top clamp had been drilled into for a switch from clip-ons to handlebar, and I looked underneath to see how I could tighten the mounts to the triple top. How does one usually reach in to tighten those? Quite a tight fit. 
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Feb 21, 2013 23:17
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Deepset socket on a 3/8th drive ratchet. This is where the difference between nice, slim tools and larger, cheaper ones can really make a difference. You might also find due to the shape of the headstock it's easier to get into there with the bars cranked one way or another.
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Feb 21, 2013 23:27
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One last question real quick - it's a good idea to wear your boots/pants/jacket to check how it works with the bike you might buy, right? I intend to get the guy to ride it cause I'd probably drop it myself, so I don't think gloves/helmet are necessary. Good thing I live in the bay area and probably won't get a second glance on the bart. e: sorry about taking over like three different threads today 
M42 fucked around with this message at 23:45 on Feb 21, 2013 |
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Feb 21, 2013 23:42
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M42 posted:One last question real quick - it's a good idea to wear your boots/pants/jacket to check how it works with the bike you might buy, right? Can't hurt. Though, as an anecdote, I've gone through a few pieces of gear before I found what really works for me. I wouldn't judge/pass on a bike simply based on your pants feeling weird on it or something... if you're choosing a bike based on how your gear works on it, I think that's a little backward, you know?
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Feb 22, 2013 00:42
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Yeah, I wouldn't pass on buying the bike if my gear didn't mesh perfectly. After thinking it over the jacket's probably the only thing I'll take, cause out of all my gear it's the most shaped for a certain BP. Thanks.
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Feb 22, 2013 00:57
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M42 posted:Yeah, I wouldn't pass on buying the bike if my gear didn't mesh perfectly. After thinking it over the jacket's probably the only thing I'll take, cause out of all my gear it's the most shaped for a certain BP. Thanks. Psst, it's a Japanese standard designed in the 80's, it'll fit fine. Just buy the bike. 
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Feb 22, 2013 01:05
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M42 posted:One last question real quick - it's a good idea to wear your boots/pants/jacket to check how it works with the bike you might buy, right? Eh, maybe if it was a supersport with an extreme body position and tiny little footpegs and controls and stuff. An older standard motorcycle is going to have you sitting pretty much upright like a dining chair, with big pegs and easy reaches. If your gear prevents you from fitting something like that, there is a serious problem with your gear. Can't hurt to wear the gear and see how it feels, but do keep in mind that since it's all brand new (to you) it is going to bind and squeeze in ways that it won't after it's broken in, so don't mistake that for the bike being uncomfortable.
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Feb 22, 2013 01:53
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Zool posted:I think the thought is, "How much damage could I cause without killing myself?" I was asking my buddy what he paid for insurance on his bike and what his policy was (since I was buying it from him). He said he went with a cheap policy that had a ~$14,000 deductible. I was a bit  but his rationale was that if he caused more than $14k in damage on a 250cc bike he was probably dead anyways, so gently caress it.
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Feb 22, 2013 05:09
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But, that's not how the logic on deductibles works, unless he really just doesn't loving care about anything.
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Feb 22, 2013 05:36
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Geirskogul posted:But, that's not how the logic on deductibles works, unless he really just doesn't loving care about anything. It would be literally impossible because that's four times what a 250 costs... I get the impression the guy was trying to stupidly rationalize his terrible decision to save a few bucks with the "It'll never happen to me / I'll be dead" defense. He'll be the saddest quadriplegic.
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Feb 22, 2013 07:41
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I think the point was that insurance usually covers the other vehicles/property you hit and any other person's medical bills you cause, not just you and your own bike.
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Feb 22, 2013 15:12
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Snowdens Secret posted:I think the point was that insurance usually covers the other vehicles/property you hit and any other person's medical bills you cause, not just you and your own bike. Yeah, that. We have 100% medical coverage for ourselves.
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Feb 22, 2013 15:32
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Pompous Rhombus posted:I was asking my buddy what he paid for insurance on his bike and what his policy was (since I was buying it from him). He said he went with a cheap policy that had a ~$14,000 deductible. If he caused less than $14K and lived to tell the tale, he'd wish he were dead instead of shelling out the $14,000 while his carrier peed itself laughing.
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Feb 22, 2013 18:00
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Can you even get liability coverage subject to a deductible? I've only ever seen that for comp and collision. My wife just had an at-fault fender bender and Progressive told us from the get-go that we would have zero direct out-of-pocket expenses associated with it.
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Feb 22, 2013 19:02
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clutchpuck posted:Can you even get liability coverage subject to a deductible? I've only ever seen that for comp and collision. My wife just had an at-fault fender bender and Progressive told us from the get-go that we would have zero direct out-of-pocket expenses associated with it. Who was at fault?
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Feb 22, 2013 19:33
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She was at fault. I've seriously never heard of a liability policy with a deductible.
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Feb 22, 2013 20:47
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clutchpuck posted:She was at fault. I've seriously never heard of a liability policy with a deductible. Hadn't considered it before, but I think you are correct. It would be weird to collect that deductible from the policy holder, since the carrier would pay out to the other person and have to charge you back for the deductible. If you cause $5,000 in damage, the insurance co. cannot send a check to the other guy for $4,500 because you have a $500 deductible. It would have to bill you for the $500 instead. After shitpots of those bills going unpaid, the insurance business probably just builds that into the premiums. When the insurance covers your poo poo though, the deductible is easy to deal with. Where the coverage is for your poo poo AND another person is at fault, if you got UM coverage, then the carrier usually waives the deductible when you subrogate, or refunds it from recovery against the other guy.
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Feb 22, 2013 21:06
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Okay, so today I did a bunch of work on the bike to try and solve that stumbling/funny valve noise issue from last weekend. Some of the things I discovered: - the valves were pretty far out of whack (too loose). I tightened them up to where they should be. - the point cam followers were way more worn than I remembered, and the gap was wrong. Like it was supposed to be 0.3-0.4mm, and I would guess I was looking at maybe 0.1 to 0.15 at most. According to the manual, 0.1mm out means 10 degrees of timing off. I set it back where it's supposed to be. - one of the float bowl screws on the right carburetor had vibrated off and disappeared entirely, and the other three were loose. I guess I forgot to tighten them down or something? Yeesh. I fixed that, too. - I must have overfilled the bike with oil last week -- the level is a little above the MAX line on the dipstick. Some leaked out from the breather tube and around the cam cover gasket. I haven't dealt with that yet. After doing all that stuff, and readjusting the clutch and brakes and idle and so on...the bike is running wonderfully. It's back to starting on the first kick every time, like it was when I first rebuilt it, and the bogging down off-idle and funny spurts of power are gone. One or all of the above problems must have been causing the issues. I'm guessing that the right side carb float bowl being open to the air was causing the leaning-out on that side, jesus christ  My only niggling concern is that the valves are still clackier than I remember. They aren't terrible, like chain-gang-pounding-rocks sound, but they're definitely a little louder and sharper-sounding than before. I'm pretty drat sure I got all the clearances dead on. Could the new, clean oil be making the valve noise more obvious? I don't remember what it sounded like the first time I rebuilt the engine, but the old stuff I drained out was pretty black and gooey (let it go a little too long). Should I try to drain some of the oil out and get it back inside the fill lines? Also, do eccentric adjusters wear out and have to be replaced eventually? One of the valves was much harder than the rest to get set properly, because its eccentric had to be turned almost to the maximum possible point (before it "flips over") to get the clearance right. The others are happy with the adjuster set somewhere in the middle of their travel range. What could be causing that to happen? Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 04:45 on Feb 23, 2013 |
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Feb 23, 2013 04:43
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I'm going to attempt to clean the carbs on my 96 CBR600 tomorrow. Advice? I'll be using the service manual as my guide.
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Feb 23, 2013 07:55
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Any of you AUS goons near New South Wales?
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Feb 23, 2013 08:47
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I am, what's up?
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Feb 23, 2013 09:00
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Day Man posted:I'm going to attempt to clean the carbs on my 96 CBR600 tomorrow. Advice? I'll be using the service manual as my guide. Are they racked? Don't take them off the rack.
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Feb 23, 2013 09:02
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theperminator posted:I am, what's up? I PM'd you.
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Feb 23, 2013 09:08
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I believe that they are. I will leave them racked.
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Feb 23, 2013 09:17
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Day Man posted:I'm going to attempt to clean the carbs on my 96 CBR600 tomorrow. Advice? I'll be using the service manual as my guide. What's the bike doing that makes you think you need to clean the carbs?
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Feb 23, 2013 15:45
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I seem to remember reading here you shouldn't use washing-up liquid on visors, so what should I use to wash mine + pinlock? All sorts of weird white poo poo on it kicked up from Highland roads.
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Feb 23, 2013 16:54
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I've got 2 microfibre cloths that I use (the ones you use to clean your glasses). One I wet with water out of the sink and use to wipe all the poo poo off, the other one I use to dry it. Comes up perfect.
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Feb 23, 2013 17:36
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I've used Invisible Glass or whatever every day for a year and a half and my pinlock visor still looks phenomenal. 
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Feb 23, 2013 18:26
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Wootcannon posted:I seem to remember reading here you shouldn't use washing-up liquid on visors, so what should I use to wash mine + pinlock? All sorts of weird white poo poo on it kicked up from Highland roads. I can confirm that even the crappy public-restroom pink soap will take the anti-fog coating right off of Scorpion visors. Damned lovebugs got me twice that day.
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Feb 23, 2013 18:44
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Paper towel, thoroughly wet it, put on visor, soak it, wipe. Use a second, dry, towel to, well, dry it. With dryness.
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Feb 23, 2013 20:16
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n8r posted:What's the bike doing that makes you think you need to clean the carbs? Previous owner left it sitting with fuel for a year before I bought it. I replaced the fuel filter and pump when I first got it. Running sea foam through got it running pretty well. Over the course of this winter, it has started behaving like it's running rich at low rpm. If I give it too much gas, and it bubbles and lurches, and then if I back off the gas it will be okay. High rpm running is fine. I put some more sea foam in this week, and it stopped running rich at low rpm. Now, and it's running lean if I get off the gas to slow down at higher rpm. If I coast a little to slow down, it takes a big twist of the gas to get the engine to respond. I'm pretty sure the carbs are gummed up, and causing all of these symptoms. That is, unless someone here more knowledgeable thinks otherwise.
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Feb 23, 2013 20:45
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I don't really know where to ask and google is not helping. For the record, my maintenance experience stops at changing the oil. I have a '96 Dr350 with a "pumper carb". Every few months, especially if it sits for a few weeks, it won't work. The local store tells me the float needle fell out and they reseat it. The problem is they have done it 3 times and then it quits working again. I want to learn to do it myself. My bike, because of other personel issues, has been sitting for 6 months. I want to take the carb apart, clean it, put the needle back in, and make the bike run myself. Right now when I turn on the gas it pours out of a hose at the bottom, which google tells me is the overflow hose. Does this mean the needle is out? Where is the best guide to tell me what to do? Is it going to be hard? Part of me wants to blow this thing up and buy a newer/nicer bike. I'm about to start commuting on my bike to work again so I will be riding it regularly. The last few months I didn't have a parking space which allowed motorcycles, but I finally scored one.
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Feb 23, 2013 20:48
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Gas pouring out of the carb means that there's something wrong in your float bowl, yeah. It could be the fuel valve leaking (I think that's what they mean when they say the "float needle") or it could just be that your floats are just set too high. Find the Haynes manual for your bike (or better, the original shop manual) and read the section on carburetor adjustments and maintenance. A single-cylinder motorcycle engine is probably the ideal way to learn about carburetors, since bike carbs are generally pretty simple and you don't have to deal with synchronization or anything. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 21:01 on Feb 23, 2013 |
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Feb 23, 2013 20:58
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The PO told me the pumper carb was an aftermarket part, off the DR350 dirt model I believe. Would the Haynes manual still be good or would it be useless? Honestly, I think this is a higher power telling me to get a Supermoto to commute on 
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Feb 23, 2013 21:00
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Ribsauce posted:The PO told me the pumper carb was an aftermarket part, off the DR350 dirt model I believe. Would the Haynes manual still be good or would it be useless? I've seen dr350s converted to sumos with the wheels off GSXR or bandit 400s. you probably have the mikuni flatslide from the offroad model, I recommend asking at advrider or thumpertalk for advice but from a quick google it seems there are a few common problems with them. jetsrus sell rebuild kits for them for 25 dollars which would be a good place to start. http://www.jetsrus.com/carburetor/carb_mikuni_TM33-8012_pumper_carb_exploded_view_parts.html
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Feb 23, 2013 21:07
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