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Option A: Garrett 2554, quality cast manifold and SS downpipe, oil/water distributor, good hoses, heatshield. All used, about 15-20k on them. Option B: ISIS T28 for a SR20DET, FM manifold/outlet/downpipe, basic hoses. All new. Assuming the price was comparable, which would you opt for?
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Feb 28, 2013 22:25
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Garrett because they are so common there will be lots of support available for it. That low of mileage on the parts is basically nothing as long as it wasn't abused. Also: http://www.bellengineering.net/product_info.php?cPath=4_74&products_id=405 300$ VS http://www.frsport.com/Garrett-GT2554R-471171-3--GT25R--Dual-Ball-Bearing-Turbo-w-Internal-WG_p_2304.html 1000$ (They were just the first hits on google so probably not the best prices, but you're probably not paying 700$ more just for a brand name) craig588 fucked around with this message at 22:47 on Feb 28, 2013 |
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Feb 28, 2013 22:38
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They're both garret turbos though I believe. A T25 on that car feels pretty good, and you won't want much more transmission breaking power. Do whatever is cheaper though. Hoses don't really matter unless you're tracking it and paying attention to heat. I had just rubber parts store generic hoses for mine with the exception of the oil feed. No distribution block either. Edit: didn't see that it looks like the ISIS is a cheap knock off turbo. I would not go that route personally. Who makes the "quality cast manifold"? Either BEGI or FM I'd guess or the ebay cast for the 1.6L. I don't know of any others unless they're really scarce. Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 23:39 on Feb 28, 2013 |
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Feb 28, 2013 23:35
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AF posted:aaaaa I just spotted that on CL right now and was gonna post it here, too. Although KBB is not the definitive guide, it states that the Miata in that ad is $4k, max. It looks really nice, though, and considering how lovely the used car market is here in the bay area, it might not be a bad buy. KBB/NADA doesn't mean squat when pricing Miatas. When I sold my 95M KKB said it was worth 5k and I sold it for twice that, shows how much they know. I would pay 4.5k for that black Miata because of the condition, low miles and aftermarket parts. Somebody probably will pay 5k or close to it.
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Feb 28, 2013 23:57
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Larrymer posted:Edit: didn't see that it looks like the ISIS is a cheap knock off turbo. I would not go that route personally. Who makes the "quality cast manifold"? Either BEGI or FM I'd guess or the ebay cast for the 1.6L. I don't know of any others unless they're really scarce. Yeah, it's a BEGI. Ceramic coated, etc. Good stuff. The issue is really known quantity vs. throwing the dice on used parts that may be very good or broken in some terminal way. And the risk of guy just plain disappearing with the money, but there's not much I can do about that.
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Mar 1, 2013 00:05
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leica posted:KBB/NADA doesn't mean squat when pricing Miatas. When I sold my 95M KKB said it was worth 5k and I sold it for twice that, shows how much they know. It will get the 5k for sure. Easily.
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Mar 1, 2013 00:10
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I agree, kbb is not the be all end all re: price. I'm on my way to check out that miata right now, haha.
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Mar 1, 2013 01:35
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leica posted:KBB/NADA doesn't mean squat when pricing Miatas. When I sold my 95M KKB said it was worth 5k and I sold it for twice that, shows how much they know. What the gently caress. When did you sell your 95M for $10k? I think 95Ms are worth about $5k now... or at least they were a few years ago, and I figure Miata prices have basically stabilized now. Re turbos: IMO a T28 is just too big. A GT2554 or 2560 is a nice size for a street driven Miata. AF posted:I agree, kbb is not the be all end all re: price. I'm on my way to check out that miata right now, haha. e: this one also seems like it *could* be decent: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/cto/3650507786.html no photos tho quote:2000 Mazda Miata - $4200 (inner sunset / UCSF) ahahah, wtf is this poo poo: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/3627408794.html quote:1990 miata 1.8 - $1300 (sebastopol) Hog Obituary fucked around with this message at 01:53 on Mar 1, 2013 |
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Mar 1, 2013 01:44
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Hog Obituary posted:What the gently caress. When did you sell your 95M for $10k? It was about five or six years ago. It was flawless with matching hard top, some guy in D.C. bought it sight unseen and sent a hauler to pick it up. Very strange sale, never done anything like it, but I got what I wanted for it even though the KBB value was 5k with the hard top. The current Miata market dictates prices, not KBB.
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Mar 1, 2013 01:49
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leica posted:The current Miata market dictates prices, not KBB. 
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Mar 1, 2013 01:55
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Well honestly, most 95M's are neglected so they aren't very special. I've seen a few recently that looked like poo poo. I'd bet my paycheck that an all original mint condition 95M would fetch 10k all day long, it is probably the most desired Miata out there, and people are going to pay a premium for a good one. The 95M will probably be one of the first models to start appreciating in value I'm sure.
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Mar 1, 2013 02:08
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Hog Obituary posted:ahahah, wtf is this poo poo: "It has a beep witch will sit the car out any time I don't know why. I never took it to the mechanic but is running" I am trying so hard to translate but I'm coming up blank. Though it does have after market stearing. So there's that.
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Mar 1, 2013 02:28
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http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/cto/3648062189.html This car has been up for a while. It's gonna need timing belt and WP... so what'd be a fair price? Say $3200? I'm pretty sure the owner is a hellflush type 'cause he had pictures up before of the car with giant dish wheels and excessive camber. Hog Obituary fucked around with this message at 04:46 on Mar 1, 2013 |
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Mar 1, 2013 04:36
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Show up with cash in hand, it would be a good deal at 3200.
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Mar 1, 2013 04:47
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'95 was the last year of the real oil pressure gauge, right?
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Mar 1, 2013 07:01
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Previa_fun posted:'95 was the last year of the real oil pressure gauge, right? '94
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Mar 1, 2013 07:09
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Hog Obituary posted:ahahah, wtf is this poo poo: Wowww, post that poo poo in the CL gold thread. That ad is absolutely hilarious. leica posted:Somebody probably will pay 5k or close to it. Sudden Infant Def Syndrome posted:It will get the 5k for sure. Easily. That person is me  I drove an hour through traffic to see it. Everything looked fantastic. Passenger door had maybe two door dings a small scratch. Everything else was cherry. Soft top is a year old and looks really, really nice. No rips, tears, blemishes in the interior; all electronics worked. Overall condition is just awesome. Full disclosure: the test drive was the first time I've ever driven a Miata. I had a BLAST just driving it around the block. I burst out laughing at least a half dozen times because I was just having so much fun. My emotions...didn't help when it came time to deal with the price. The car was in such good condition and I enjoyed it so much that it was hard to find anything to use as leverage to bargain with. I really should have docked some for the timing belt and battery; owner thinks the belt might be original and the battery is a Mazda unit that I couldn't find that date on. Anyhow, I should be picking it up tomorrow. So FRICKIN' excited. I can't believe it.
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Mar 1, 2013 07:34
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^^^ Who gives a poo poo, that maintenance is easy. Congrats! I know that feeling.
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Mar 1, 2013 08:14
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Viper915 posted:So I ordered all the bushings and boots needed to freshen up my shifter, but then realized that I missed the actual leather boot that keeps it looking pretty. Is any random cheap ebay boot going to hold up well enough for this or should I put in a second order for a real one? Also has anyone found them for less than like $40? I know I'm a few days late to the shift boot party but I bought a leather one from here http://www.redlinegoods.com/Miatashiftboot.php. I got dark gray with blue stitching, looks great and has held up just fine for the two years i have had the car. It's a little pricey but I wanted a custom color and these the top of the boot is looser (I like mine bunched up and pushed down the shifter a bit since I have a plain steel shift knob). 8th-snype fucked around with this message at 11:04 on Mar 1, 2013 |
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Mar 1, 2013 11:02
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Bit of a strange issue with the brakes - when I start the car, I need to stand on the pedel for the car to stop. The issue is gone within 2 minutes or less. This seems to happen only when it's right around freezing outside with very high relative humidity. Anyone have any ideas? E: also happens after I wash the car. I wonder how my caliper slide pins look up front, might be time to re-grease... TrueChaos fucked around with this message at 15:31 on Mar 1, 2013 |
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Mar 1, 2013 15:26
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Uh yeah, might be time to take them apart and grease everything, a hardware kit would be a good idea too. If they are seizing up time for new calipers. FM sells Willwood calipers that bolt right on, kinda pricey though.
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Mar 1, 2013 18:01
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TrueChaos posted:Bit of a strange issue with the brakes - when I start the car, I need to stand on the pedel for the car to stop. The issue is gone within 2 minutes or less. This seems to happen only when it's right around freezing outside with very high relative humidity. Anyone have any ideas? Vacuum boosters also can freeze, there isn't really a fix for that, though. Check the calipers and such too, just in case.
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Mar 1, 2013 18:36
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leica posted:Uh yeah, might be time to take them apart and grease everything, a hardware kit would be a good idea too. Yeah, I replaced pads/rotors/hardware ~8 months ago. Everything was greased at that time, but who knows. The part that's wierd to me is its basically one hard press of the pedal and everything is back to normal. It's very intermittent too, happened twice this week. I'm honestly wondering if its just the pads/rotors sitting wet or something, as it only really happens the first pedel push after I either wash the car or its been sitting for a while in rainy/humid weather. The pedal is firm, ABS works, doesn't feel any different than it has before. Here's hoping its not the vacuum booster, those are expensive. Though that's what it feels like - using the brakes when the car is off.
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Mar 1, 2013 18:59
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TrueChaos posted:Yeah, I replaced pads/rotors/hardware ~8 months ago. Everything was greased at that time, but who knows. The part that's wierd to me is its basically one hard press of the pedal and everything is back to normal. It's very intermittent too, happened twice this week. I'm honestly wondering if its just the pads/rotors sitting wet or something, as it only really happens the first pedel push after I either wash the car or its been sitting for a while in rainy/humid weather. The pedal is firm, ABS works, doesn't feel any different than it has before. Isn't the standard test for this to keep the car off, pump the pedal several times to build up pressure, then when it's good and stiff, put pressure on it, and if your booster is good, it'll keep pressure, and if it's bad it'll bleed off and the pedal will sink down? note: I COULD BE WRONG,
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Mar 1, 2013 19:08
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Korwen posted:Isn't the standard test for this to keep the car off, pump the pedal several times to build up pressure, then when it's good and stiff, put pressure on it, and if your booster is good, it'll keep pressure, and if it's bad it'll bleed off and the pedal will sink down? It holds up to this test just fine. I will take everything apart and re-grease on the weekend, and probably flush the braking system at the same time. Hopefully this solves the issue.
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Mar 1, 2013 19:33
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Previa_fun posted:'95 was the last year of the real oil pressure gauge, right? Wait, so what the hell does the oil pressure gauge on my '97 do??
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Mar 1, 2013 20:28
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Voltage posted:Wait, so what the hell does the oil pressure gauge on my '97 do?? It tells you whether or not the oil pressure switch has engaged, which is at around 8PSI.
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Mar 1, 2013 20:40
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Let's you know that your engine is hosed. Past tense.
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Mar 1, 2013 21:57
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Voltage posted:Wait, so what the hell does the oil pressure gauge on my '97 do?? It's not real, it's actually binary. It's basically an oil pressure light with a needle.
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Mar 2, 2013 02:40
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Newbie Miata/convertible questions incoming: The soft top on my Miata is a Robbins with a plastic window and doesn't seem to have a zipper: is this common? I went ahead and folded it for the first time and the window folds in half on itself. I noticed last night when I was driving it with the top up that there's a noticeable crease in the window where it's being folded. Is this something I just have to accept? Also, I tried to put on the cover that goes over the top when it's lowered, but the rollbar is in the way. I can't find a way to secure it. Is it safe to drive without it? Lastly, I just discovered the dedicated raise/lower headlight button, awesome 
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Mar 2, 2013 19:04
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The tonneau cover is pretty much just for looks. I'm sure it mitigates some sun damage to the top, but it makes a shitload of noise.
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Mar 2, 2013 19:24
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AF posted:Also, I tried to put on the cover that goes over the top when it's lowered, but the rollbar is in the way. I can't find a way to secure it. Is it safe to drive without it? Sell it to a crazy person on miata.net who can keep it with their collection of Nardi steering wheels. I've not once used a cover and it's a pain to carry around anyways.
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Mar 2, 2013 19:26
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Removed the cover. Good to know, thanks guys!
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Mar 2, 2013 19:47
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Mine fits round my rollbar with a bit of finagling. I kinda like the way it looks. One of these days I'll cut and hem some slots in it so it fits better.
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Mar 2, 2013 19:49
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For the plastic window, use a pool "noodle" in the fold of the window and that will prevent it from creasing. And yeah the covers are for sun protection and if the top is down a lot it's a good idea to have it on, the inside of the top is not protected and will get hosed up by UV rays. The soft top on my Miata was garbage because of it, I could put my fingers right through the areas that were exposed to the sun. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 23:56 on Mar 2, 2013 |
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Mar 2, 2013 23:52
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AF posted:Newbie Miata/convertible questions incoming: You should just get a towel to put on the outside of your top before you put it down. Prevents the crease, but it may be a bit late for that. E: f; b
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Mar 3, 2013 00:23
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So I rented a rug doctor along with the hand held attachment to clean my carpets and furniture and thought hey might as well do the Miata quick. Jesus where those seats loving dirty. 
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Mar 3, 2013 01:58
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Toolshack_farts.jpg
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Mar 3, 2013 02:03
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I know what I'm doing tomorrow. Gross.
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Mar 3, 2013 02:07
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Actually, they are the seats from my '95. I swapped them out because the driver bolster on the '97 was ripped to hell and I don't like the '97 seats anyway, not as supportive as the older ones. But yeah I was kinda shocked at how dirty the water came out. I guess that happens when you leave the top down all the time.
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Mar 3, 2013 02:14
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