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I would definitely go for all new weatherstripping if you are going to replace the whole top, it will more than make up for it in the long run and you can get it all done in one shot.
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Mar 15, 2013 14:55
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| # ? May 29, 2024 20:14 |
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You're probably right, but I'm having a hard time justifying spending more then half of what I paid for a new top on a few pieces of rubber stripping. This is really loving annoying, why does no one but Mazda make these?
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Mar 15, 2013 17:15
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Think of it this way: they've lasted 17 years in the Florida sun.
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Mar 15, 2013 17:29
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My Nielex console came in today, it was worth the $400, I'll say that much.
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Mar 16, 2013 02:23
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Go back to (it's nice)
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Mar 16, 2013 02:35
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So I dropped my 2008 NC soft top off at the dealer to get LoJack installed and asked them to look at the rear defrost since it's not working. I pick up my car and the guy says that the defrost strips have been 'busted off of the glass' and they're not making contact anymore so that's why it's not working, something along the lines of the circuit not staying closed so electricity doesn't flow through the defroster. He says that the only way to get the defrost working is to replace the rear window with a new one, does this sound legit? I've looked on all kinds of Miata forums and can't seem to turn over anything related to what he said.
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Mar 17, 2013 05:48
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"Busted off the glass" makes no sense, but I bet if you get an ohmmeter and probe the defroster grid you get an open circuit. They at least used to sell conductive paint you could use to paint over whatever trace was destroyed instead of having to replace the entire defroster. Look closely at it, are there any scratches / gaps in the defroster?
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Mar 17, 2013 06:01
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I'll have to take a look at it tomorrow when there is more light but nothing out of the ordinary that I could remember, I've got a ohm meter as well so I'll probe around the connections to see if everything is honkey dorey. The defrost light actually turns on and I can hear the relay 'click' on under the hood when I press the button so I know it's not those at least. I'm curious if it was accidentally disconnected from the harness that runs from the trunk.. If worse comes to worst the dealer might ask me to go half-sies on my deductible for my extended warranty which is only $100 out of pocket, not bad for a new rear window (glass one at that).
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Mar 17, 2013 06:18
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Just curious, but why did you feel the need to get LoJack? Are NC's a popular car to steal or something?
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Mar 17, 2013 16:26
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judging by my dealer negotiations, NCs are not a popular car period
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Mar 17, 2013 18:52
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It was three parts; one parts salesmanship on my finance officer's part, one part great deal (got the entire LoJack package for $750 installed) and one part my paranoia of where I have to park my car for work. My work lot gets frequented by a lot of unsavory company during the day and more than once a co-worker's car has been broken into or stolen so I'm just covering my bases (also no, my work refuses to do anything about the break-ins or cover costs of vandalism). From what I understand NCs are not popular to steal, especially ones equipped with the advanced key-less entry like mine since it's too much work for your average car thief. Edit: /\/\ & \/\/ I got mine for almost $5k under blue book, it really is a great bargain right now to get a NC. Tanz-Kommandant fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Mar 17, 2013 |
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Mar 17, 2013 19:15
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fag magnet posted:judging by my dealer negotiations, NCs are not a popular car period It's a near end-of-life model that is a niche/pleasure vehicle (for most owners) coming out of a recession, so that's not surprising. The NC is a great car and it sold fairly well for its first several years on the market, but it's pretty stale at this point. Especially with the rumors of the next-gen Miata being more "aggressive". I kind of wish I had some dollars to burn and a garage to store a second car in, I'd love to pick up a hugely discounted NC.
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Mar 17, 2013 22:49
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Got a lead on a '92 Sunburst Yellow Miata. What's the market value these days on a '92 with 150k miles with a good unibody, and how much is the "yellow tax". Thanks.
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Mar 17, 2013 23:24
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If it's completely stock and in mint condition maybe 500 to 1k more than a red one in the same condition. Or if it has an original paint hard top add more for that on top of the cost of a hard top. Otherwise, not gonna matter much. It pretty much comes down to how bad you want it, if yellow is not your thing don't even bother, because some people love them and will be willing to pay more.
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Mar 18, 2013 02:52
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Over the weekend I decided to refresh my soft-top latches. The old ones had a very strange corrosion underneath the paint. I sanded off all the old paint, applied primer, and then two layers of the finest, cheapest spray paint I could find. I added a few layers of clearcoat, for what good it will do. I also sanded off all the paint from the bolts, and polished them. I think the look is somewhat unique, and it was easier than painting them.     It think it looks better than before, and cheaper than paying $145 each just for the handle latches (not even for the receivers!)
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Mar 18, 2013 07:53
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I love the new thread title and am taking full credit for dragging this thread back down again.
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Mar 18, 2013 08:28
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Granite Octopus posted:Over the weekend I decided to refresh my soft-top latches. The old ones had a very strange corrosion underneath the paint. I sanded off all the old paint, applied primer, and then two layers of the finest, cheapest spray paint I could find. I added a few layers of clearcoat, for what good it will do. I also sanded off all the paint from the bolts, and polished them. I think the look is somewhat unique, and it was easier than painting them. Looks great! My drivers side latch is a bit worn out and after a few heavy bumps it becomes slightly unlatched and forms a slight gap in the top left of the top. Did you replace the springs or anything or just paint them?
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Mar 18, 2013 14:36
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Granite Octopus posted:Over the weekend I decided to refresh my soft-top latches. The old ones had a very strange corrosion underneath the paint. I sanded off all the old paint, applied primer, and then two layers of the finest, cheapest spray paint I could find. I added a few layers of clearcoat, for what good it will do. I also sanded off all the paint from the bolts, and polished them. I think the look is somewhat unique, and it was easier than painting them. That's a big improvement, well done  I have some similar corrosion, mostly on some screws and bolts under the hood though. Any ideas what might be causing this? I don't think I've seen this type of corrosion on any other cars.
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Mar 18, 2013 14:53
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Finally getting around to putting the dash back in my 91 miata and have a dead instrument cluster. Blinker indicators on the dash work but nothing else does, car starts up fine and all my lights (high/low/brake/reverse) work. All the fuses are good so now I'm trying to figure out what is messed up. One thing I haven't tried is hooking up the center console (hazard/lights) and the hvac panel but I don't think that would cause the dash to be dark. Anything that is commonly forgotten or missed when putting these things back together? If not I'll start going through the wiring diagrams again.
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Mar 18, 2013 18:23
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For any V8 guys, or people with V8 experience, what is the recommended kit for an NA? FM? V8 roadsters? Boss Frog? Looking into a LSx and a 4L60E (ya thats right, auto trans)
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Mar 18, 2013 19:29
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Flyin' Miata looks like they have excellent kits, but I don't think they cater to autos https://www.flyinmiata.com/V8/
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Mar 18, 2013 20:42
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Pushing around the idea of picking this up for the summer for the little woman to learn standard on (she's having a hard time with the Saabaru), then reselling it once the weather turns again. I know nothing about the Miata market - is this a fair price, and what would be a good price?
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Mar 18, 2013 21:29
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OFLWzLJY3TU Asssss. Why don't they make this exhaust for the NA?! It sounds great. I want something louder than stock, but I don't want any rasp added in. I'm considering the Racing Beat Power Pulse but it sounds really quiet from what I've seen in videos.
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Mar 18, 2013 21:42
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blk posted:Pushing around the idea of picking this up for the summer for the little woman to learn standard on (she's having a hard time with the Saabaru), then reselling it once the weather turns again. I know nothing about the Miata market - is this a fair price, and what would be a good price? Seems maybe a touch high, but its pretty low mileage so maybe not. I can say that the Miata is a perfect car to teach standard on, I used my NA to teach my girlfriend who has never touched manual before and she picked it up really quick. Not even a single stall.
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Mar 19, 2013 00:46
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So I took a look at the car today, yeah the defrost is getting power and the element is scratched to gently caress so it's not conducting, bummer. I decided to clean the interior and adjust the clutch pedal while I was out and about, engages so much better now. Weather was perfect too so I got some top-down driving on my grocery/car wash run. I did notice lots of new rock chips on the front bumper after I washed it though, spring is brutal in the Pacific Northwest for road debris 
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Mar 19, 2013 01:57
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blk posted:Pushing around the idea of picking this up for the summer for the little woman to learn standard on (she's having a hard time with the Saabaru), then reselling it once the weather turns again. I know nothing about the Miata market - is this a fair price, and what would be a good price?
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Mar 19, 2013 02:17
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destructo posted:Unless your upscale WRX drives like a tractor I doubt that switching cars is going to help much. The idea might be to get another car for her to rag out instead of grinding gears on the nicer vehicle?
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Mar 19, 2013 02:40
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The clutch on a WRX is a lot stiffer than a Miata, so it may be a bit easier to do.
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Mar 19, 2013 02:51
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I can't stop looking at the install instructions for the FM turbo kit... I just feel like it would almost be wasted on my car since it's a 200,000 mile rustbucket. I mean, I can always remove it and put it on a nicer car if mine blows up...
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Mar 19, 2013 15:44
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blk posted:Pushing around the idea of picking this up for the summer for the little woman to learn standard on (she's having a hard time with the Saabaru), then reselling it once the weather turns again. I know nothing about the Miata market - is this a fair price, and what would be a good price? I think that's a decent deal, but it won't be any easier/harder than learning on a Saabaru.
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Mar 19, 2013 16:06
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Voltage posted:I can't stop looking at the install instructions for the FM turbo kit... I just feel like it would almost be wasted on my car since it's a 200,000 mile rustbucket. The B6 and BP engines are surprisingly durable and take forced induction pretty well even with higher mileage. If your leakdown numbers look good (not an optional test), then redoing all the oil seals and considering doing the headgasket might work just fine. My first 323 GTX (A factory B6 turbo) had 180K miles on it, had less than 5% leakdown on all cylinders, and the bores looked brand new when I took the head off to deal with a burned valve seat.
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Mar 19, 2013 16:29
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I'll definitely look in to getting that test done. If I were to turbo it, rebuilding the motor wouldn't be out of the question since I have always wanted to do that with something.
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Mar 19, 2013 16:37
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I went to look at a 99 silver miata today. It looks clean aside from few scratches(not too noticable unless looking for it), clean carfax, and about 79k miles on it with 3 previous owners. The asking price is 7.4k. I believe it is the LS option because it has leather interior and bose system. It hasn't had any of the 60k maintenance done from what the dealer tells me. It comes with both the soft and hard top. Is 7.4k a good price for this miata? What price would be reasonable to negotiate to? This car is a Texas car from what the carfax says.
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Mar 19, 2013 18:55
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phootnote posted:I went to look at a 99 silver miata today. It looks clean aside from few scratches(not too noticable unless looking for it), clean carfax, and about 79k miles on it with 3 previous owners. The asking price is 7.4k. I believe it is the LS option because it has leather interior and bose system. It hasn't had any of the 60k maintenance done from what the dealer tells me. It comes with both the soft and hard top. Is 7.4k a good price for this miata? What price would be reasonable to negotiate to? This car is a Texas car from what the carfax says. With proof of maintenance and hardtop, I'd offer $6k and pay a max of $6.5k. Offer 5.4k and pay 6k. The 60k maintenance isn't hard to do.
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Mar 19, 2013 18:59
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Local newspaper did an interview with me: http://www.theonion.com/articles/man-with-strong-brand-loyalty-willing-to-kill-for,31761/
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Mar 21, 2013 20:00
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Well, this turned out easier than the internet had me expecting. Manifold nuts came off with barely a complaint. Two of the studs came out with their nuts, but that'll be nothing to fix. The hardest bit was getting the EGR pipe union nut off -- had to find a wrench of just the right length to slip past the inside of the frame rail there. And beat on it with the BFH. Still, job done.
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Mar 22, 2013 01:19
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That motor looks very clean.
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Mar 22, 2013 02:01
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I've been having a hard time with first gear, really gotta ease into it, and sometimes it's almost impossible to get into first while rolling at a slow pace. I changed the gear oil and put in some full syn Motorcraft but it didn't help the first gear issue at all. Is this a sign of the master/slave going or is it the syncros? Maybe I need to bleed the clutch?
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Mar 22, 2013 02:07
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Double clutch and rev match like a boss.
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Mar 22, 2013 02:07
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| # ? May 29, 2024 20:14 |
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Well when I'm sitting still or coming out of reverse that doesn't help much I just hope the syncros aren't making GBS threads the bed already.
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Mar 22, 2013 02:11
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