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powderific posted:Any one have recommendations for crossbars and a cargo basket? I'm looking to put one on my crosstrek's existing rails. I liked the looks of thule's basket as it has bars on top for mounting a bike or whatever in addition. For crossbars, Subaru's aero bars are way cheaper than Yakima or Thule, are they that much worse? I never had any problem with the stock crossbars on any of my older Subarus. The OEM accessories were also made by Yakima, not sure if they are still. edit: Here's an old pic for example  
Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 19:45 on Mar 16, 2013 |
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Mar 16, 2013 19:31
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Is $300 for a set of 2002 WRX OEM wheels with Blizzak REVO 205/R16 tires a good deal? The tires allegedly have 1500 miles on them.
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Mar 16, 2013 22:26
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Is $300 for a set of 2002 WRX OEM wheels with Blizzak REVO 205/R16 tires a good deal? If the wheels are in good shape, sure.
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Mar 16, 2013 22:53
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I'd pay that for them. I'm looking for the same setup myself and these are too far away to be worth it. But comparable to what you're looking at. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2480977
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Mar 16, 2013 23:22
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What synthetic oil do you guys recommend for a 2006 WRX? I was going to use Mobil 1 5w30 since Costco has it for cheap, but was warned away from that in the stupid questions thread.
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Mar 17, 2013 18:50
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blk posted:What synthetic oil do you guys recommend for a 2006 WRX? I was going to use Mobil 1 5w30 since Costco has it for cheap, but was warned away from that in the stupid questions thread. If you're looking for cheap oil, Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 is a good choice. Blue bottle, it'll say it's for heavy duty / turbodiesel. You can find it at Wal-Mart.
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Mar 17, 2013 20:21
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Pennzoil Platinum is what I use. A lot of people get off on Rotella too it seems. Edit: ^ See?
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Mar 17, 2013 20:22
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I've been using the T6 for 2-3 oil changes now and it's been awesome.
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Mar 17, 2013 20:31
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'nthing the love for t6, great for track days, cheap ($16-19/gal), performs well within group 3 spec.
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Mar 17, 2013 21:51
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CharlesM posted:I never had any problem with the stock crossbars on any of my older Subarus. The OEM accessories were also made by Yakima, not sure if they are still. As I was searching around I saw some posts about the newer stuff being weak--I have no idea who makes them now. They don't look like Thule or Yakima: https://www.subaruonlineparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=1618&osCsid=26d26efd73bea61b6f24db38e7263ad2
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Mar 18, 2013 00:45
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Is $300 for a set of 2002 WRX OEM wheels with Blizzak REVO 205/R16 tires a good deal? WRX rims go for 200 all day. So 300 for a set of good wheels and tires is a good deal in my book. blk posted:What synthetic oil do you guys recommend for a 2006 WRX? I was going to use Mobil 1 5w30 since Costco has it for cheap, but was warned away from that in the stupid questions thread. Local performance guy does not recommend mobile 1 and I am in agreement.
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Mar 18, 2013 00:57
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blk posted:What synthetic oil do you guys recommend for a 2006 WRX? I was going to use Mobil 1 5w30 since Costco has it for cheap, but was warned away from that in the stupid questions thread. 5w40 synthetic something is what the EJ255/7 wants I use Lubromoly, but motul and shell rotella are fine too. Don't use 5w30 unless you have a newer car (one that specs 5w30 only instead of 5w30 or 10w40) that is still in warranty.
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Mar 18, 2013 01:13
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powderific posted:As I was searching around I saw some posts about the newer stuff being weak--I have no idea who makes them now. They don't look like Thule or Yakima: https://www.subaruonlineparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=1618&osCsid=26d26efd73bea61b6f24db38e7263ad2 I more meant the accessories that bolt to the crossbars are Yakima, like ski holders, etc. Sorry I wasn't clear. Well, I don't have any experience with the past two generations of Impreza, just the ones going up to 2007. I don't know how many other people have the latest gen on here like yours. The crossbars look about the same as the older ones though, but it's hard to tell from the tiny pic.
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Mar 18, 2013 01:26
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Ahh, gotcha. I checked the other accessories and think you're right on that count. I'll probably just go with the Subaru crossbars and chalk it up to experience if they fail.
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Mar 18, 2013 01:44
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I figured this might enrage some people here. I saw this on Saturday at a local junkyard. It was in fantastic shape all around, and zero rust. 
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Mar 18, 2013 20:41
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BoostCreep posted:I figured this might enrage some people here. I saw this on Saturday at a local junkyard. Quickly buy the whole thing!
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Mar 18, 2013 21:09
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Once I went to the junkyard and saw two SVXes parked next to each other, virtually untouched. If I'd known how rare the glass was I'd have made an effort to save it.
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Mar 18, 2013 21:10
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I totaled my '08 WRX in January (a series of unfortunate events) and now find myself in the market for another. I don't really want to buy one new again, so I am looking at used ones in similar condition to what I had, and I have some questions for AI. Considering this is a turbocharged engine, is there extra diligence I can/should do before buying one used? My old car had 85k miles on it, and I'm looking at some with 60-70k now because they are close in price to what I got from insurance. Should I be spending more money to get something with 30-40k miles instead? Does it matter if I'm buying used from a dealership, or something like CarMax instead of a private party?
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Mar 19, 2013 00:20
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bawfuls posted:I totaled my '08 WRX in January (a series of unfortunate events) and now find myself in the market for another. I don't really want to buy one new again, so I am looking at used ones in similar condition to what I had, and I have some questions for AI. Get a 2011 at least. The 08's weren't the best example...
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Mar 19, 2013 01:55
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2011 on are the years to get, or 2010 if you don't mind the narrow body/wheels and softer subframe. I'd personally avoid 2009 as they've probably had the engine replaced by an incompetent dealership.
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Mar 19, 2013 02:16
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The 2010's and on are barely cheaper than a new one. Is the problem with the '09 because it was the first year with the new turbo? What changed in 2010?
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Mar 19, 2013 03:43
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09 got the bigger turbo 11 got wider fenders and track I don't think there's really anything different besides the width from 09-present. I would get a leakdown test done before buying one from a place that can do one properly.
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Mar 19, 2013 03:52
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So if I don't give a poo poo about the widebody, is there any reason to avoid the '09 other than mileage? And if not, how many miles is too many?
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Mar 19, 2013 04:11
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bawfuls posted:So if I don't give a poo poo about the widebody, is there any reason to avoid the '09 other than mileage? And if not, how many miles is too many? The 09 had a vin range in which there was probably going to be a catastrophic engine failure between 0 and 20000 miles. If you get an 09, make sure to check the car fax or records of the owner for a short block replacement during that time. I'm not sure if the range is available because Subaru just quietly replaced everyone's short blocks under warranty. Other than that I love my 09; never had another problem with it that I didn't cause. E: mines my daily driver and I've got almost 60k on it. Only had to replace a tpms sensor and a drive belt from normal wear and tear. E2: blargle posted:2011 on are the years to get, or 2010 if you don't mind the narrow body/wheels and softer subframe. I'd personally avoid 2009 as they've probably had the engine replaced by an incompetent dealership. Yeah this is what I'm talking about. Gigi Galli fucked around with this message at 04:21 on Mar 19, 2013 |
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Mar 19, 2013 04:17
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Then is there reason to worry with a high mileage 09?
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Mar 19, 2013 06:25
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I test drove a WRX today. People at work are looking at me funny, probably because of the blue spider vein engorged pulsating boner I have. If the price is right, I will be picking that car up in 2 weeks.
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Mar 19, 2013 18:41
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Popped the radiator on my '05 WRX at some point during my daily commute. Who's making good replacements these days? If I want to ditch the plastic end-tanks who makes a good "performance" radiator, Mishimoto?
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Mar 20, 2013 05:39
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Alzabo posted:Popped the radiator on my '05 WRX at some point during my daily commute. Jamal, do you want to just put the recommended all aluminum radiator makers in the OP?
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Mar 20, 2013 08:08
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Yeah that would be a good idea. Mishimoto is cheap, all-aluminum, and I'm assuming does a better job at cooling than the stock rad, simply because it is larger. I haven't looked closely at one or seen the core design but I don't think it's as good as OEM. Sometimes the caps leak. It's definitely better than godspeed or whatever though. The koyo is more expensive, all-aluminum, and does a better job at cooling because it is larger AND has an efficient core design. So basically, if you have a stockish car and need a radiator the mishimoto is fine. If you have some power upgrades and/or see a racetrack I would suggest spending the extra on a koyo (it's like $250 vs 350). Also, because the radiator is thicker you need to trim the hoses to maintain clearance to the fans and p/s pulley. And it's not a bad idea to just get new hoses, clamps, and a thermostat while you're changing it. jamal fucked around with this message at 08:28 on Mar 20, 2013 |
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Mar 20, 2013 08:22
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So after 2 months and $1200 my 2.6L motor is back from the machine shop. Time to buy a bore gauge and some piston rings and put it together.
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Mar 20, 2013 13:14
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Farking Bastage posted:I test drove a WRX today. People at work are looking at me funny, probably because of the blue spider vein engorged pulsating boner I have. If the price is right, I will be picking that car up in 2 weeks. So where do you work that your dick is in plain view, sounds like a loving awesome workplace. Casual Fridays indeed. While I don't know specifically about WRXes the Koyo rad I have on my 300zx is just groovy for 600whp and wasnt too pricey, I'd suggest their products all day.
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Mar 20, 2013 13:58
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Just wanted a sanity check here. I have about 170k on my '03 outback (not turbo). I've already replaced the timing belt twice and the head gasket once. I've also replaced the cv boots on the left and right side within the last couple of years. I had all this work done at the dealer at great expense. I now think the CV joint on the FL side is starting to go out now, it makes a pop pop pop when I make a 90 left hand turn on an incline now. I really enjoy driving the outback aside from the expensive repairs I've had done to it over the years. Aside from the possible CV joint, are there any other areas I should have checked out before they fail catastrophically?
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Mar 20, 2013 16:15
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What are the possible problems with a version 5/6 STi swap? Specifically with OBD-II compliance?
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Mar 20, 2013 16:33
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I'm about to order the Primitive Racing Front skidplate for RS. I will continue to RallyX it. They have a Borla replica version that I will be getting, but do I want the Oil filter cutout?
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Mar 20, 2013 17:40
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I didn't get the oil filter cutout on either of my Primitive skidplates. I don't really see why you would as it's less work to drop the skidplate than to do an oil change. Tell Paul his XV driving was pretty good on the last episode of Subiesport.
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Mar 20, 2013 17:50
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xd posted:Just wanted a sanity check here. No, you've done your belts and headgaskets, those are the big ticket items. The rest is just regular maintenance, struts, brakes, cvs, etc. daslog posted:I'm about to order the Primitive Racing Front skidplate for RS. I will continue to RallyX it. They have a Borla replica version that I will be getting, but do I want the Oil filter cutout? It's 5 bolts to take it off. I opted for no cutout.
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Mar 20, 2013 17:50
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What snow tires do ya'll like? I'd like to go with studless ones. I'll rarely be driving in snow around town, but I do drive up to the mountain a lot during the winter to go snowboarding. The roads are typically packed snow / slush, so I'm not too worried about ice performance. It also rains a poo poo-ton here, so wet pavement performance is a big plus. Any reason I shouldn't just grab a set of steel rims?
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Mar 20, 2013 18:03
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il serpente cosmico posted:What snow tires do ya'll like? I'd like to go with studless ones. I'll rarely be driving in snow around town, but I do drive up to the mountain a lot during the winter to go snowboarding. The roads are typically packed snow / slush, so I'm not too worried about ice performance. It also rains a poo poo-ton here, so wet pavement performance is a big plus. Any reason I shouldn't just grab a set of steel rims? I just did a search in craig's list for 205 55 R16 then I bought the studded snow tires that were barely used for $100
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Mar 20, 2013 18:10
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I didn't get the oil filter cutout on either of my Primitive skidplates. I don't really see why you would as it's less work to drop the skidplate than to do an oil change. Yea or Nay on the Rear Skidplate?
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Mar 20, 2013 18:17
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I don't have a rear skidplate on either car, but I could see how a diff protector would be valuable if you had something more expensive/rare than a 3.9 R160.
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Mar 20, 2013 18:17
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