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WD40 will remove all the gunk and penetrate into the chain for the harder spots to reach and is far less corrosive/harmful to breathe. Better to do this first with a plastic wire brush than jumping into an extreme solvent, I think.
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# ? Mar 17, 2013 04:12 |
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# ? Jun 8, 2024 08:55 |
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After getting a new fuel tank for the Daytona it has been a target for bird poo poo and tree sap all of a sudden, and even though I've been cleaning it off with bug & tar remover as soon as I notice it has managed to damage the clear coat slightly. it's barely noticable but I'd like to fix it. Will something like Meguiars Scratch X be suitable for something like this? theperminator fucked around with this message at 05:54 on Mar 17, 2013 |
# ? Mar 17, 2013 05:52 |
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Another stupid question: has Honda been using the same axle diameter since pretty much forever, or are there material differences in axle diameter throughout the years? I am looking to ditch my spokes and get some cast wheels for my Shadow, but I'm having a hell of a time finding any kind of parts compatibility index or reference. I've tried the Service Honda remote desktop, but that seems to now be either unavailable to the public or on the fritz at the moment. There's this french site, https://www.bike-parts.fr that is good for finding interchangeability, but it depends on the part having the same classification number(see this handy page for everything you ever wanted to know about parts number labeling), and it would seem those are subject to somewhat arbitrary change. I know the front and rear axles are always the same diameter, it's just the actual axle diameter(s, hopefully the singular applies in this case) they've used that I need to know. The FSM only gives acceptable runout values, it says nothing about the actual dimensions of the axle. For reference, it's a 99 Shadow 600.
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# ? Mar 17, 2013 09:15 |
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I've never owned a car, and in 2012 I bought a used motorbike from a private seller. I paid taxes when I got the title transferred. Now I'm doing my taxes (USA) and the tax program asked, did you buy any new vehicles in 2012? Basically, I'm wondering, do I have to fill out anything related to the motorbike while doing taxes? And more specifically, 1. Does motorcycle count as a "vehicle" in their eyes? 2. When they say "new," do they mean new new, or new to me?
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# ? Mar 17, 2013 20:10 |
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alnilam posted:I've never owned a car, and in 2012 I bought a used motorbike from a private seller. I paid taxes when I got the title transferred. 1. Yes. 2. New to you.
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# ? Mar 17, 2013 20:41 |
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theperminator posted:After getting a new fuel tank for the Daytona it has been a target for bird poo poo and tree sap all of a sudden, and even though I've been cleaning it off with bug & tar remover as soon as I notice it has managed to damage the clear coat slightly. it's barely noticable but I'd like to fix it.
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# ? Mar 18, 2013 04:01 |
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Kilersquirrel posted:Another stupid question: has Honda been using the same axle diameter since pretty much forever, or are there material differences in axle diameter throughout the years? I am looking to ditch my spokes and get some cast wheels for my Shadow, but I'm having a hell of a time finding any kind of parts compatibility index or reference. I've tried the Service Honda remote desktop, but that seems to now be either unavailable to the public or on the fritz at the moment. There's this french site, https://www.bike-parts.fr that is good for finding interchangeability, but it depends on the part having the same classification number(see this handy page for everything you ever wanted to know about parts number labeling), and it would seem those are subject to somewhat arbitrary change. Your best bet is to find enthusiast forums for these bikes and ask there. Honda loves using parts that only fit a specific bike so who knows how many bike wheels/axles will interchange.
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# ? Mar 18, 2013 06:27 |
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Mr. Eric Praline posted:Probably worth going over it with a clay bar before trying abrasives. Ah right, that sounds great thanks!
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# ? Mar 18, 2013 07:01 |
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Xovaan posted:WD40 will remove all the gunk and penetrate into the chain for the harder spots to reach and is far less corrosive/harmful to breathe. Better to do this first with a plastic wire brush than jumping into an extreme solvent, I think. This. On the rare chance I want to deep clean my chain, I soak it in WD40 and work it with a plastic or nylon brush. Comes out sparkling every time. Anyone used Plasti Dip before? Been thinking of spraying my plastics white, and the "No prep (outside of washing) and peel off when you want" thing appeals to me.
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# ? Mar 18, 2013 22:09 |
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BlackMK4 posted:Wellll... here.
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# ? Mar 18, 2013 22:17 |
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Pope Mobile posted:
I'll let you know how it holds up after next week. That's my spring break project. I've used it on cars and it works great so no reason it shouldn't work on fairings.
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# ? Mar 18, 2013 22:33 |
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Does anyone have any recommendations on length of ramp? I have a full size F-150 4x4 and my 6' Harbor Freight cheapo isn't cutting it anymore. From my google-fu skills, it's come down between these two ramps: http://www.discountramps.com/black-widow-motorcycle-ramp.htm http://www.discountramps.com/big-boy-motorcycle-ramp.htm I'd like to go with the Big Boy because it's significantly lighter and only two ramps, but it's also more expensive. Can I get away with an 8' ramp or should I really splurge for 9'? For reference, the primary use for this ramp will be for transporting an SV650S to the track and back.
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# ? Mar 19, 2013 13:32 |
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I run a 8' on my Ranger, and it's right at the threshold of too steep for loading solo. I'd probably look at the 9' for a F150 4x4.
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# ? Mar 19, 2013 17:25 |
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I have to run a 9' for my ranger, but it's pretty jacked up for offroading. Does anyone have a wife that's attempting to kill them with kindness? I can't decide between a full on Dirt bike, an actual adventure bike or a dedicated track bike. After kicking this around for about a month (traders remorse from getting rid of the drz even though I love my VFR) my wife sits me down and tells me she doesn't care if I get one of each as long as she gets to take trips and stuff with me. Now I'm seriously looking to pick up a weekend gig this fall to help put some cash away and pay for some things. Am I lucky or is she plotting to murder me and steal the bikes once I acquire them?
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# ? Mar 19, 2013 17:44 |
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I have a 9 foot for my 4x4 Tundra and it works well. I've also got a 7 or 8 ft bed extender/ramp unit but it's too steep for anything other than a light dirt bike.
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# ? Mar 19, 2013 17:45 |
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I have a call in to the local authorized dealer to see if I can avoid paying the $60 in shipping charges. We'll see what happens.
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# ? Mar 19, 2013 22:16 |
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Is there any way - absent finding a screw I really don't care for - to confirm that my impact driver is working properly? It's been sitting at the back of the cupboard for years but I feel like I'm going to need it soon, but the head doesn't seem to twist when I manually push it in to the body. I know it should only be a few degrees but I'm sure it was noticeable when I last used it.
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# ? Mar 19, 2013 22:21 |
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Does anyone have a wife that's attempting to kill them with kindness? Sounds like you have a relationship based on trust and enjoying spending time together, combined with (hopefully) secure finances? Related question, kind of embarassing, but what exactly is a "track bike"? Is it a bike you only ever ride at a track? How does one get time at a track? What do you do there, just go really fast and do poo poo you can't do on the street?
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# ? Mar 20, 2013 17:38 |
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My first bike (Honda CBF125) has thrown a big end and isn't safe to ride any more, the dealership I got it from are trying to say that the warranty it is still under is void. I had a spill about a month ago where the bike tipped and the engine stalled after literally 3 seconds whilst on its side, the dealer is trying to claim that this was long enough to drain the engine of oil and cause the issue that has arisen. Can anyone tell me if this sounds likely? The bike is from 09 and had 15000 miles when I bought it 5 weeks ago and I've done about 700 more since then, the (only) crash was the one mentioned above that happened 4 weeks ago. Since then I have taken it to the dealership because I thought it was leaking oil (it wasn't, and the workshop manager assured me it was absolutely fine). I only noticed a knocking sound 2 days ago and took it there as soon as possible where it has remained. Thanks for any help!
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# ? Mar 20, 2013 17:42 |
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alnilam posted:Sounds like you have a relationship based on trust and enjoying spending time together, combined with (hopefully) secure finances? Check out the Track day thread. For a track bike I'd pick up a 600 that has seen better days as cheaply as possible. Rashed plastics, lightly wrecked etc. Throw on some track plastics, safety wiring and deleted the extra stuff you don't need for the street. Then you sign up for a track day and truck/trailer it there and ride the piss out of it. The main idea for me is to improve the higher level riding skills, the ability to hold/pick a line, proper braking technique, how to maintain speed and mostly to have fun riding like a bat out of hell. As for finances, I've managed to whittle more than $60k in debt down to about $15k. I'm really close to being out of the woods financially and should be clear by this time next year. I only buy toys I can pay for in cash outright and I make sure that buying them won't put any extra strain on us. Edit: Naan Bread posted:My first bike (Honda CBF125) has thrown a big end and isn't safe to ride any more, the dealership I got it from are trying to say that the warranty it is still under is void. I had a spill about a month ago where the bike tipped and the engine stalled after literally 3 seconds whilst on its side, the dealer is trying to claim that this was long enough to drain the engine of oil and cause the issue that has arisen. Doesn't that bike have a tip over switch? 3 seconds isn't enough to kill a bike on it's side. It sounds like the dealer is just trying to screw you over. How bad was the crash, was it 2mph in a parking lot or a 20mph lowside? That can have a lot to do with it. If you took it in right after the wreck and were told it was fine and they didn't tell you that you voided your warranty then it should be covered. Ponies ate my Bagel fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Mar 20, 2013 |
# ? Mar 20, 2013 17:52 |
You don't need a track bike to go to the track. Anyone can show up. All you need in level 1 (beginners) are some tires with >50% tread (closer to new is better) and a bike that isn't a deathtrap really. Our tracks here rent leathers and boots for first timers for free. You just need some solid gloves and a good DOT helmet, etc. It's also 50% off for your first time around here so it ends up being maybe 70 bucks to ride the track. Make sure your bike isn't leaking fluids of any kind and that everything is adjusted properly like your chain. They should do a quick tech inspection of your bike and let you know if anything looks concerning ie chain too tight / loose, radiator is leaking, etc. They'll teach you all about cornering, braking, reference points, etc. while there. Many people claim it's as good for experience as riding on the street for years but teaches you the proper way to do things / react.
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# ? Mar 20, 2013 17:59 |
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JP Money posted:You don't need a track bike to go to the track. Anyone can show up. All you need in level 1 (beginners) are some tires with >50% tread (closer to new is better) and a bike that isn't a deathtrap really. Our tracks here rent leathers and boots for first timers for free. You just need some solid gloves and a good DOT helmet, etc. It's also 50% off for your first time around here so it ends up being maybe 70 bucks to ride the track. Make sure your bike isn't leaking fluids of any kind and that everything is adjusted properly like your chain. They should do a quick tech inspection of your bike and let you know if anything looks concerning ie chain too tight / loose, radiator is leaking, etc. Definitely this! The VFR is my commuter though and I wouldn't want to risk it on the track. I live in a college town so slightly butterfaced 600's are super common and cheap.
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# ? Mar 20, 2013 18:04 |
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:I live in a college town so slightly butterfaced 600's are super common and cheap. I've been thinking of maybe buying a beater ~600 and heading to a nearby track (for the first time!). Are there CA-approved ~600s for new track riders that easy to find, have availability of parts, are easy to work on, won't totally break the bank, etc? Edit: Also, for a first time track rider, is a 250 a better option for the first season? My first bike was a GS500, and my current ride is a DL650. I'm not looking for anything bigger, and in fact I think I might like the idea of "riding a slow bike fast" (riding the piss out of a 250 sounds appealing). epswing fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Mar 20, 2013 |
# ? Mar 20, 2013 18:11 |
Buy an 06+ r6, newer zx6 or a gsxr and there are plenty of parts. In my experience r6's are the most popular and around here zx's are incredibly popular. You can easily find a completely track ready bike for less than 3500. It likely won't have a title though.
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# ? Mar 20, 2013 18:21 |
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JP Money posted:In my experience r6's are the most popular and around here zx's are incredibly popular. JP Money posted:It likely won't have a title though.
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# ? Mar 20, 2013 18:23 |
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Doesn't that bike have a tip over switch? 3 seconds isn't enough to kill a bike on it's side. It sounds like the dealer is just trying to screw you over. How bad was the crash, was it 2mph in a parking lot or a 20mph lowside? That can have a lot to do with it. If you took it in right after the wreck and were told it was fine and they didn't tell you that you voided your warranty then it should be covered. Yes I'm certain they are trying to wriggle out of this and I want to get some information so I can tell them straight. I'm not sure if it has a tilt cut off sensor but googling returned nothing. The crash was maybe 10-15mph round a really tight right hander on a damp road and the front tyre just slid out. How long does an engine with a wet sump have to be running on its side for damage to occur? I've read all over and it varies from instantaneously to a matter of minutes, anyone have any experience with this? Thank you.
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# ? Mar 20, 2013 18:35 |
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Have you tried calling Honda and telling them that so-and-so shop is being a dick about honoring your warranty? That can often produce results.
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# ? Mar 20, 2013 18:40 |
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epalm posted:
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# ? Mar 20, 2013 18:41 |
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Naan Bread posted:Yes I'm certain they are trying to wriggle out of this and I want to get some information so I can tell them straight. I'm not sure if it has a tilt cut off sensor but googling returned nothing. The crash was maybe 10-15mph round a really tight right hander on a damp road and the front tyre just slid out. If it goes a matter of minutes, I'd attribute it to luck. Not sure what to say, when it went down, did it do it in such a way that the throttle got pinned and the engine was revving while it was on its side? Stalling quickly after going down suggests it has a tipover switch. I've seen my Honda 175 on the ground for longer than just a few seconds, rear tire spinning, engine running. Hasn't died yet, but I am convinced one of these days soon it will explode. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 18:49 on Mar 20, 2013 |
# ? Mar 20, 2013 18:42 |
epalm posted:Where is "here"? Texas. Most track bikes don't have titles because it's way cheaper to buy that way. It's going to be off road only if it's a true track bike so it doesn't matter.
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# ? Mar 20, 2013 18:46 |
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Does there exist a 2010+ Bandit 1250N (the naked variety) with ABS that was sold in the US?
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# ? Mar 20, 2013 19:52 |
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Naan Bread posted:My first bike (Honda CBF125) has thrown a big end and isn't safe to ride any more, the dealership I got it from are trying to say that the warranty it is still under is void. I had a spill about a month ago where the bike tipped and the engine stalled after literally 3 seconds whilst on its side, the dealer is trying to claim that this was long enough to drain the engine of oil and cause the issue that has arisen. So did I miss what the actual "issue" is other than it being not safe to ride anymore? Edit: Oh threw a bearing? I actually think you'll have a tough battle with that. slidebite fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Mar 20, 2013 |
# ? Mar 20, 2013 19:59 |
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My exhaust has a stink that I can really only describe as "dirty", but it's only there when the engine is cold. After I ride for a bit and the engine warms up, it's gone. There's no smoke, just a smell. It doesn't smell like oil. I changed the oil a couple months, and swapped the plugs a couple weeks ago. The plugs were pretty fouled. Any thoughts on what it might be? '09 FZ6 ~23,000 miles.
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# ? Mar 20, 2013 20:02 |
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That's it running on the cold start enrichment logic. It's putting lots of extra fuel in because fuel tends to condense out and not burn when the engine is cold, rendering your remaining atomized charge lean. The condensed/unburned fuel that passes through is likely what you're smelling.
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# ? Mar 20, 2013 20:07 |
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Nothin' like the smell of emissions in the morning.
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# ? Mar 20, 2013 20:10 |
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Whew, that's good to hear. The more you know!
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# ? Mar 20, 2013 20:19 |
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hayden. posted:Does there exist a 2010+ Bandit 1250N (the naked variety) with ABS that was sold in the US? No.
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# ? Mar 20, 2013 20:32 |
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What model years was the naked available at all in the US? I can't find any info about it really.
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# ? Mar 20, 2013 20:48 |
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The bandit 1250 was not available as a naked bike in the US.
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# ? Mar 20, 2013 20:51 |
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# ? Jun 8, 2024 08:55 |
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I think the naked 1200 models were available in the US from 1996 to 2005. They sold them elsewhere through 06 and went with the half-faired 1250 in 07. Knowing Suzuki and their parts-bin philosophy, it seems likely to me that you could do a bolt-on swap of a round headlight and 1200 gauges onto a 1250.
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# ? Mar 20, 2013 20:54 |