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The way I see it, synthetic is better in every way compared to dino oil at the same viscosity. It flows better when cold, doesn't wax up if stored cold and maintains its viscosity better for longer. Dino oil has no benefits other than price. I still run my Bandit on semi-synth because of lol 6000km oil changes and the price difference. I ran synthetic in it last year since it was on sale for the same price as dino. This may only apply to air-cooled engines, but it did run cooler and start easier on fully synth. The shifting action felt different, too. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 22:27 on Mar 21, 2013 |
# ? Mar 21, 2013 22:25 |
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# ? Jun 5, 2024 05:08 |
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Snowdens Secret posted:This may be old man oil voodoo talk, but the rule I always heard was, new bike you can go with either, once it's broken in stick with one or the other, old-rear end bikes do better with dino. It's cheaper anyway. The reason people often say to stick with dino oil in old engines is that synthetic oil will slowly dissolve the sludge that has formed from dino oil. Unfortunately if that sludge is acting as a stop leak, the synthetic oil will cause a leak and end up getting blamed for it. Personally I never run Dino oil in anything. Texas Tea is a cheap high quality 100% synthetic oil, buy it on Amazon, no reason to use dino oil.
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# ? Mar 21, 2013 22:29 |
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Having said that I still wear a backpack because I've only got stumpy legs and tailpacks make it impossible for me to get on the bike, and I have a pathological dislike of tank bags. The bag I use now is supposedly designed to prevent that (very wide straps that are designed to sit over the armour, and most of the weight is actually carried on the waist instead of the shoulder), but I'm not that keen on testing it... I'm on the taller side (6'1") but also ride a tallish bike, the topcase made it a little awkward to mount at first, but not really once I got used to it. I either grab my right leg and pull it the rest of the way over the seat (I think this is more because I'm wearing sorta skinny jeans under my riding pants that limit my range of motion), or I get up on the left footpeg first and swing my right leg over from there. I was a little skeptical of the kickstand taking all that extra weight, but as long as you stay properly balanced it's rock solid. I was originally going to remove the topcase (PO installed it) but I realized that 1) it's so godddamn useful and 2) it's really not that much more difficult to get on the bike with it there. Pic for reference: Pompous Rhombus fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Mar 21, 2013 |
# ? Mar 21, 2013 22:46 |
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Pompous Rhombus posted:or I get up on the left footpeg first and swing my right leg over from there. I was a little skeptical of the kickstand taking all that extra weight, but as long as you stay properly balanced it's rock solid. I'm 5'10 with a 30" inseam on a bike with a 33" seat height, and that's how I mount it loaded.
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# ? Mar 21, 2013 22:50 |
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The only time I've heard anything bad about synthetic is on certain new engines they want you to complete the break-in and first oil change on dino before switching. I personally had an issue with trying to run synthetic on my new Enfield's engine and it badly glazed the cylinder walls and caused other issues (which resulted in me getting a new engine under the 2-year unlimited mileage warranty they had at the time), but an Enfield doesn't exactly count as a modern engine. On the iron barrel engines the piston was fit to the cylinder at the factory by a guy who would grab one of each out of a bin and push them through with his thumb and gauge the pressure required: not exactly high tech, and you get a lot of heat for the first 1,000 miles or so. On modern engines ("modern" being anything designed in the past 30-40 years, unlike the Enfield), I don't see how there would be an issue.
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# ? Mar 21, 2013 22:54 |
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Does anybody know when the latest KTM 690's are gonna be imported to the US?
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# ? Mar 21, 2013 23:07 |
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Pompous Rhombus posted:I'm on the taller side (6'1") but also ride a tallish bike, the topcase made it a little awkward to mount at first, but not really once I got used to it. I either grab my right leg and pull it the rest of the way over the seat (I think this is more because I'm wearing sorta skinny jeans under my riding pants that limit my range of motion), or I get up on the left footpeg first and swing my right leg over from there. I was a little skeptical of the kickstand taking all that extra weight, but as long as you stay properly balanced it's rock solid.
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# ? Mar 21, 2013 23:24 |
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186 cm (6'1") here too. When I have both a tank bag and a tail bag on the bike, I use the John Cleese-technique. Sometimes I even skip the finger.
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# ? Mar 22, 2013 00:48 |
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Pompous Rhombus posted:I'm on the taller side (6'1") but also ride a tallish bike, the topcase made it a little awkward to mount at first, but not really once I got used to it. I either grab my right leg and pull it the rest of the way over the seat (I think this is more because I'm wearing sorta skinny jeans under my riding pants that limit my range of motion), or I get up on the left footpeg first and swing my right leg over from there. I was a little skeptical of the kickstand taking all that extra weight, but as long as you stay properly balanced it's rock solid. That's how I had to get on my R1100GS. It was like getting on a horse. That bike is beautiful.
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# ? Mar 22, 2013 07:09 |
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Okay so I'm an idiot, and after filling up today I rocked my bike off the center stand before mounting and lost balance, tipping it onto it's side. As a result the front brake lever got bent, almost 90 degrees away from the handlebar. It's still usable temporarily, but can I fix it with some pliers/mallet whatever, or should I just find a nearby spares shop and buy a new one?
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# ? Mar 22, 2013 07:59 |
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I'd be tempted to buy a new one. Bending the metal about probably fatigues it quite a bit and it's not like levers are particularly expensive.
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# ? Mar 22, 2013 12:57 |
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ReformedNiceGuy posted:I'd be tempted to buy a new one. Bending the metal about probably fatigues it quite a bit and it's not like levers are particularly expensive. Yeah the office was loving quiet today so I ran off to the shop and they fitted one right there for like $10. Dropping the bike while stationary at the petrol station is probably one of the most embarrassing moments of my life though.
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# ? Mar 22, 2013 13:03 |
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As long as it still works you could bend it back out, but I think new levers are only about $10 - $15, I'd just replace it. Not sure where you're from, but I'm pretty sure you can get booked for damaged levers and such if the cop you get is in a bad mood where I am.
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# ? Mar 22, 2013 13:03 |
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Shimrod posted:Not sure where you're from, but I'm pretty sure you can get booked for damaged levers and such if the cop you get is in a bad mood where I am. Is it still possible for you guys to get booked for having a rear fender not at a 45 degree angle from the axle or some poo poo?
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# ? Mar 22, 2013 13:37 |
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Actually, yeah, I know a guy that got done last week for that.
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# ? Mar 22, 2013 13:46 |
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FileNotFound posted:Voodoo talk. That's the reasoning I always heard, dino oil can hide problems in old engines that synth can uncover. Sorta like replacing the ATF on a really tired auto trans (also in the realm of voodoo)
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# ? Mar 22, 2013 14:23 |
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After over 8000 miles and one year on my 250, I have upgraded to an SV650. While riding the 250, I always wondered what people were talking about when they talked about suspension feel on a bike. The 250 always felt fine. Turn in was predictable and it never really 'unsettled' mid turn unless I did something stupid like use the brakes mid corner. Well, now that I have the SV, I think I know what people mean. I feel like a newbie again. The bike just feels off. I'm back to being scurred of leaning again. The tires are in decent shape (some sport touring battlax model that I can't remember). I'm definitely going to take it to a parking lot for a mini-MSF. My best guess is that the suspension is set up for a much lighter rider and I'm feeling the front end move a lot more mid corner than I did on the 250. I do feel like I'm on a rocket ship, though, so that's nice. My first upgrade will be valve emulators, a proper spring for a 170lb rider and a ZX-10 rear shock.
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# ? Mar 22, 2013 18:02 |
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The SV has pretty mediocre suspension. A set of GSXR forks would be a good idea if you can spring for it. There are a lot of other options beyond just a GSXR, too.. I'd check out Svrider.com for more at a front end swap.
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# ? Mar 22, 2013 18:13 |
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What the hell are those little inline fuel filters/screens called on a parts website? This is actually for a generator, but I'm pretty sure its the exact same thing. It goes completely inside the fuel line, its a little plastic frame about 1/4 in diameter and an inch and a half long with a fine mesh screen in it. "Inline fuel filter" is just bringing up larger filters with barbed fittings on both sides.
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# ? Mar 22, 2013 19:19 |
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sirbeefalot posted:What the hell are those little inline fuel filters/screens called on a parts website? This is actually for a generator, but I'm pretty sure its the exact same thing. It goes completely inside the fuel line, its a little plastic frame about 1/4 in diameter and an inch and a half long with a fine mesh screen in it. "Inline fuel filter" is just bringing up larger filters with barbed fittings on both sides. They're called inline fuel filters. why do you want one? your tank has one built in. your carbs most likely have them too. don't use them.
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# ? Mar 22, 2013 20:09 |
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Pope Mobile posted:The SV has pretty mediocre suspension. A set of GSXR forks would be a good idea if you can spring for it. There are a lot of other options beyond just a GSXR, too.. I'd check out Svrider.com for more at a front end swap. I've heard from my buddy who races (tm) an SV that a gixxer fork swap isn't as good as an emulator setup because the fork swap will mess with the geometry of the front end. What's the CA opinion on this? This should probably go to the SV thread, though.
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# ? Mar 22, 2013 20:37 |
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XYLOPAGUS posted:I've heard from my buddy who races (tm) an SV that a gixxer fork swap isn't as good as an emulator setup because the fork swap will mess with the geometry of the front end. What's the CA opinion on this? Emulators will be cheaper and easier. That's my CApinion.
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# ? Mar 22, 2013 20:48 |
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The Ricor Intiminators in the SV650 made a huge difference for me and they were dirt cheap. They really helped out with the brake dive that I hated. Highly recommended.
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# ? Mar 22, 2013 21:10 |
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XYLOPAGUS posted:I've heard from my buddy who races (tm) an SV that a gixxer fork swap isn't as good as an emulator setup because the fork swap will mess with the geometry of the front end. What's the CA opinion on this? The SV geometry is really, really relaxed from the factory. The GSX-R forks make it more aggressive which is nice for track/aggressive riding use, but can also make it slightly more prone to headshake. Emulators are a bit more plug and play, the GSX-R stuff is much more adjustable and tuneable. If you just want something better, the emulators are great. If you want to really get your setup dialed in and tuned, pick up the GSX-R stuff.
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# ? Mar 22, 2013 21:25 |
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XYLOPAGUS posted:I've heard from my buddy who races (tm) an SV that a gixxer fork swap isn't as good as an emulator setup because the fork swap will mess with the geometry of the front end. What's the CA opinion on this? I never swapped or modded the front end on my SV, so I'd go with the opinion of people that have. My statement was based off of what I've seen people on svrider doing.
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# ? Mar 22, 2013 21:30 |
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Thanks all. I'm going to order emulators soon.
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# ? Mar 22, 2013 21:46 |
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Nerobro posted:They're called inline fuel filters. why do you want one? your tank has one built in. your carbs most likely have them too. don't use them. Like I said, I'm looking for one as a replacement for a generator, not for my bike. All the fuel lines look like they're about the same size, which is why I was looking on Bike Bandit and the like. I could probably kluge on one of the bigger ones with the fittings, I guess.
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# ? Mar 22, 2013 21:51 |
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sirbeefalot posted:What the hell are those little inline fuel filters/screens called on a parts website? This is actually for a generator, but I'm pretty sure its the exact same thing. It goes completely inside the fuel line, its a little plastic frame about 1/4 in diameter and an inch and a half long with a fine mesh screen in it. "Inline fuel filter" is just bringing up larger filters with barbed fittings on both sides. Something like this? Thought I'd actually bought a couple for my RS125 so I could take a better photo for you, but the only one I could find was attached to an RG250 tank, was a completely different design, and appeared to be filled with chopped cork.
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# ? Mar 23, 2013 01:29 |
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Naan Bread posted:My first bike (Honda CBF125) has thrown a big end and isn't safe to ride any more, the dealership I got it from are trying to say that the warranty it is still under is void. I had a spill about a month ago where the bike tipped and the engine stalled after literally 3 seconds whilst on its side, the dealer is trying to claim that this was long enough to drain the engine of oil and cause the issue that has arisen. It depends. If it's an 09 then it's being covered by a 3rd party warranty. And that will all come down to the company that issued it.
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# ? Mar 23, 2013 03:15 |
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I'm interested in getting the Honda XL125V as my first ride. Any suggestions?
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# ? Mar 23, 2013 11:56 |
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ilmouzer posted:I'm interested in getting the Honda XL125V as my first ride. Any suggestions? Any reason why you need to stick to 125cc? Alternatives at the same price are either going up in cc and age, or getting a lighter, less complicated single cylinder 125. It all depends on the reasons why you've chosen that, it's certainly not a bad bike.
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# ? Mar 23, 2013 14:19 |
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How does a hypercharger work, and does it really do anything?
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# ? Mar 23, 2013 20:50 |
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Ola posted:Any reason why you need to stick to 125cc? Alternatives at the same price are either going up in cc and age, or getting a lighter, less complicated single cylinder 125. It all depends on the reasons why you've chosen that, it's certainly not a bad bike. The top speed here is 50mph, I also want a 'large' bike as in size (I'm 6'6).
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# ? Mar 23, 2013 20:54 |
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AfricanBootyShine posted:How does a hypercharger work, and does it really do anything? It's a fancy air filter housing. They do a great job of sucking in rain.
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# ? Mar 23, 2013 21:32 |
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So I just finished (for the most part) getting my SV ready for the road, but there's still one niggling issue left. Trying to start on its battery with full charge only produces a couple weak, slow 'wrrrsss' of the starter, but if I jump it, the bike starts on the first revolution. Bad starter or bad battery? edit: Or possibly bad connection between the two?
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# ? Mar 24, 2013 04:38 |
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Probably a bad battery, check voltage drop when you hit the starter.
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# ? Mar 24, 2013 04:59 |
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AncientTV posted:So I just finished (for the most part) getting my SV ready for the road, but there's still one niggling issue left. Trying to start on its battery with full charge only produces a couple weak, slow 'wrrrsss' of the starter, but if I jump it, the bike starts on the first revolution. Bad starter or bad battery? Bad battery or screwed up battery ground.
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# ? Mar 24, 2013 12:09 |
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So, checked the voltage drop, it went from 12.8v to 4.5v on start. I was thinking what the gently caress, this battery has literally never been used, maybe it... wait... I didn't put the second acid pack in it
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# ? Mar 24, 2013 17:14 |
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ilmouzer posted:The top speed here is 50mph, I also want a 'large' bike as in size (I'm 6'6). Norway?
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# ? Mar 24, 2013 17:33 |
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# ? Jun 5, 2024 05:08 |
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Odd question and maybe long odds of an answer. Friend of mine just go this used Roadliner that fell from the sky in perfect condition at a perfect price. It included 2 sets of 4 keys. The ignition and accessory keys are different, and there's aftermarket bags that have their own key, and this: We can't find what it goes to, and I'm unable to Google anything on it, the logo, etc. The only thing I found was this photo which is listed on some uni's lost and found with no info other than 'M key'. I have a hunch it's for a disc lock or something, but there's no disc lock installed or found on the bike (yet). Anybody know anything about this key/logo/etc? So far all we have is the big M within an M and we're starting to wonder if the PO didn't just throw it in there to gently caress with the next buyer. We have no means of contacting the PO, but have sent along an e-mail address in case they feel inclined to get in touch.
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# ? Mar 24, 2013 19:16 |