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Ozmiander posted:Got the most powerful engine $250 can buy. It doesn't look like a knockoff Honda stationary motor. So what is it? e: Forgot to say what I did. re-glued the stupid padded pad for the padded armrest that the car has. other trim levels don't have it. It's one of those leather for the sake of it things. Can't go without because there are screws poking out of the armrest. How they installed it in the first place is a mystery to me. 
General_Failure fucked around with this message at 00:17 on Apr 8, 2013 |
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Apr 8, 2013 00:14
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General_Failure posted:It doesn't look like a knockoff Honda stationary motor. So what is it? AMC 2.5l I4. A whopping 120hp.
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Apr 8, 2013 02:34
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DoLittle posted:Yes, the big red thing is a 30mm anti-roll/sway bar and the "coat hanger wire" is a tender/helper spring to take up slack on extension. The springs are held together by a spacer between the springs and spring preload. thanks for the pics, always cool to see torsion bars
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Apr 8, 2013 03:27
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Ozmiander posted:AMC 2.5l I4. A whopping 120hp. That explains why I had no idea what it was. Well, on friday I'll be picking up a new ride with a thumping 74.5 ponies from the factory. I suspect about 60 have escaped but on my brief visit of the car I saw a few interesting adjustments and bodges that will take me all of a few minutes to fix.
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Apr 8, 2013 03:33
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Capslock Holmes posted:Changed oil on the wife's 4runner and also the air filter. The PO had a K&N in there that was filthy as hell. Is it like the Tundras where they stick it up the side of the block, and then cover it with an approximately 7 ton rock guard?
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Apr 8, 2013 03:44
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Fucknag posted:Is it like the Tundras where they stick it up the side of the block, and then cover it with an approximately 7 ton rock guard? There's a skid plate you have to remove, yeah. Here's a picture (not mine) 
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Apr 8, 2013 04:55
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Yup, done plenty of those myself. I much prefer the Tacoma setup, filter's up top next to the filler cap, oil drains down into a capped funnel. Just remove the cap and stick a bottle underneath when you unscrew the filter, convenient as hell.
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Apr 8, 2013 05:40
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Swapped out the useless basic gauge cluster on my '95 Cherokee with a full-gauges cluster.  No wiring to change - the cluster just plugs in - but you do have to change out the oil pressure and temp senders for the gauge versions. Of course, the temp sender didn't want to cooperate:   At least it came out easy (no pun intended.) And then:  That's the oil pressure sender and the right-angle adapter it mounts to.  That's where it goes, which is under the AC compressor and hoses. Also, the giant gently caress-off motor mount is in the way of a straight shot at the hole, and therefore the remains of the adapter, which is why the stupid sender doesn't just stick out of the side of the block in the first place. After a couple hours of removing the motor mount, which involved also removing the alternator, during which I may have intimated that Jeep/Chrysler engineers could all eat a bag of dicks, I got the freaking stub out:  It also came out easy, at least. New senders went back in with no problem. Motor mount went back in fairly easily, once I remembered I had an air ratchet (limited wrench swinging room in there.) Pissed I didn't remember that to take it out... Changed the oil, oil filter (got rid of the Fram the PO used,)spark plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor. The #1 spark plug on the 2.5L is annoying but not ridiculous:  Also swapped in a tilt steering column with a good airbag.  And just for good measure, I helped a kid from our local RX-7 club install a new stereo in his very clean '79 RX-7. This weekend about wore me out. After all that, the oil pressure gauge on the new cluster is not working. It's pointing straight to the right, and remains the same with the sender unplugged. either a problem with the wiring or the gauge, I guess.
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Apr 8, 2013 19:37
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Capslock Holmes posted:There's a skid plate you have to remove, yeah. Here's a picture (not mine) They also put the starter under the intake manifold. Not as common a replacement, but still a pain in the dick. Today i test-plastidiped one of my summer wheels, it went well, now just to do the rest. I also brought the subaru home and cleaned out a god drat mouse nest from the trunk.  
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Apr 8, 2013 20:37
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Brought it to the insurance estimator, $2k in damages!  
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Apr 8, 2013 21:21
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So...pocket 2k cash and drill and zip tie it. That looks like the most insignificant damage for that estimate.
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Apr 8, 2013 22:33
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Motronic posted:I think I've put all the patches on this one that it can take. I know this isn't more than 6 or 7 Sockingtons of rust, but I'm not good enough to weld to rust. The exhaust has just kinda been wafting out of the wheel well. Ahhh Rover poo poo. I don't have any photos of the process, but refer to other posts. I put the struts on in the caddy, replaced the sway bar links, and the sway bar bushings (it was easy, the bushing was only 20 bucks for both sides), and took it in for an alignment. Its done. The Seville STS saga is over. Other than a few touch up items, a good clean, and a polish wax (get that dead paint back and sparkling) and post it on craigslist.
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Apr 8, 2013 22:36
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Capslock Holmes posted:There's a skid plate you have to remove, yeah. Here's a picture (not mine) There is a pretty awesome access hatch through the driver side wheel well.
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Apr 8, 2013 22:38
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Larrymer posted:So...pocket 2k cash and drill and zip tie it. That looks like the most insignificant damage for that estimate. I recon the big puddle of what looks like coolant might have a bit to do with the 2K quote.
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Apr 8, 2013 22:40
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I really don't think that's coolant.
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Apr 9, 2013 00:50
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Nothing, but the inductive timing light arrived today. Hooray a big boy tool!
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Apr 9, 2013 01:12
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Got the water pump installed, still need to fill and burp it and check for leaks but I ran out of daylight so it'll have to wait for tomorrow. Turns out I bought clutch removal tool for nothing, on my truck the fan's held on by the pulley nuts alone. Ah well, it's an Autozone tool so I can return it for full refund.\ E: Also made some progress on the Mazda, got one axle nut off the other day. The driver's side just spun the wheel even with brakes fully applied, so it's soaking in PB blaster for a couple days. Is there any trick to getting the ball joints apart? I've got the pinch nut fully loosened on the LCA, between a prybar and a tie rod separator I had lying around I've got it to slide out maaaaybe 1/16 inch. Usually once the taper's broken they pop right out, but mine's being stubborn. Fender Anarchist fucked around with this message at 01:19 on Apr 9, 2013 |
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Apr 9, 2013 01:15
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Larrymer posted:So...pocket 2k cash and drill and zip tie it. That looks like the most insignificant damage for that estimate. If I could I would. New bumper cover, fender and washer fluid tank for sure plus paint, prep and taxes.
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Apr 9, 2013 01:20
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It finally got some dyno time. 110kw increase at the wheels! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=40pUJMpoQFI
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Apr 9, 2013 01:28
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I completely failed at bleeding the brakes. Both front wheels would not give up a drop of fluid. Since the hoses leaked all over when I took them off, I'm guessing the cylinders need to be rebuilt/replaced.
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Apr 9, 2013 03:39
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I spent most of the day wishing I was as good at sheetmetal fab as kevbarlas while fabricating 91 toyota hilux patch panels out of 16ga steel sheet and booger welds. It came out almost factory looking... after a coat of body filler anyways.Darchangel posted:sender swapping horror How the hell did you break BOTH of those? Your luck is the worst... I have never broken either and I've probably done a half dozen of each. At least they are both NPT threaded and therefore not much of a fight for an ez-out once they start turning.
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Apr 9, 2013 04:13
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Blew HGs and lost 90% of the oil and atf in the Jimmy. Then after telling the jeep salesman i didn't want to buy a new one, spent $77 on bolts for the YJ.
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Apr 9, 2013 11:36
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Old summer tires were worn to hell so I had my shop install a new set of Michelin Energy Savers on my Saab 9-3. Not very sporty, I know, but then I'm also paying European fuel prices. Try to ignore the rusty-rear end caliper. 
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Apr 9, 2013 12:58
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Poisonlizard posted:You can't just say that and not share. Nothing special. 2006 Cobalt SS/SC. FE5 (Cobalt SS/TC) struts and shocks, Pedders 1.5" lowering springs and a 3" ZZP intake with a huge gently caress-off K&N air filter.
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Apr 9, 2013 17:21
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FINALLY my cooling system is in good shape! Put it all back together this morning, after a 10 mile highway round-trip test drive the hoses are holding pressure like never before, and there's not a single fresh drip of coolant where I parked. 
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Apr 9, 2013 17:48
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Super Aggro Crag posted:Nothing special. 2006 Cobalt SS/SC. FE5 (Cobalt SS/TC) struts and shocks, Pedders 1.5" lowering springs and a 3" ZZP intake with a huge gently caress-off K&N air filter. I think he may have been asking about the "Finally found a good way to clean these:" part.
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Apr 9, 2013 18:51
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 Picked up and installed some forged Mazda RX8 wheels.
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Apr 9, 2013 23:52
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Checked all the fluids on the Forester and did a quick check of the front end to get ready for rallycross this weekend, cant wait!
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Apr 9, 2013 23:57
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kastein posted:How the hell did you break BOTH of those? Your luck is the worst... I have never broken either and I've probably done a half dozen of each. At least they are both NPT threaded and therefore not much of a fight for an ez-out once they start turning. I have no idea. I put a socket on the temp sender and applied gentle pressure to the ratchet. I didn't just suddenly put 110 lb.ft on it. drat thing just slowly twisted off. It may have already had a fracture - the stub was filled with oil. The oil pressure sender was TIGHT. I had to give it some grunt to get it out with the right-angle adapter clamped in the bench vise. Fortunately, the stub of the adapter wasn't all that tight. It had actually shifted a bit before it broke, trying to unscrew there rather than let the sender go. Hopefully, I can figure out what's wrong with the oil pressure gauge. If it points all the way to the right (past the highest pressure,)does that mean a short, or an open in the wire?
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Apr 10, 2013 00:16
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I'm honestly not sure. If you unplug the sender, does it stay the same or move to the other end of the scale? How about if you test-wire the lead for the sender to ground?
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Apr 10, 2013 01:06
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I tried the inductive timing light. It works. But damned if I could see anything more than rust and crud on the crank pulley though. Currently I have the car running with some of the metal filing and clear liquid style cooling system stop leak. Everything needs to be replaced including the welch plugs, and that involves an engine pull. Not only I can't do it on a daily driver, I no longer have access to a hoist. It only needs to last a few thousand km anyway. e: finished the stop leak / coolant shuffle. No leaks. That should have bought me some time. I prefer that gunk over the cornflower suspension looking poo poo any day. Really I'd prefer not to use it at all but I'm in a bit of a bind. General_Failure fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Apr 10, 2013 |
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Apr 10, 2013 01:18
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Super Aggro Crag posted:Nothing special. 2006 Cobalt SS/SC. FE5 (Cobalt SS/TC) struts and shocks, Pedders 1.5" lowering springs and a 3" ZZP intake with a huge gently caress-off K&N air filter. Not that, how did you clean them? I'm dreading keeping the stitching clean on mine.
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Apr 10, 2013 03:33
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Blue Coral Upholstery Cleaner and lots and lots of rags.
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Apr 10, 2013 17:23
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Installed my newly plasti-dipped summers. I'm painting the grille/shell right now, but it's not going well. possibly due to the cold/humidity.
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Apr 11, 2013 23:22
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Powershift posted:Installed my newly plasti-dipped summers. Looks good! I can't decide what color to go with but I'm definitely dipping the whole car this summer.
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Apr 12, 2013 00:28
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Powershift posted:Installed my newly plasti-dipped summers. Doing them and the beige trim in black, i hope.
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Apr 12, 2013 00:33
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Rhyno posted:Looks good! I can't decide what color to go with but I'm definitely dipping the whole car this summer. http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/Plasti_Dip_Blaze Doit! Ozmiander posted:Doing them and the beige trim in black, i hope. I was considering it, For now the shell is going green and the grill going beige. This summer i might cover all the beige in black bedliner, as the front and rear bumpers are starting to chip and rust.
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Apr 12, 2013 00:43
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Seriously tempted by that blue man.
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Apr 12, 2013 00:45
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I was going to paint my winters orange just for the hell of it, that makes that even easier.
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Apr 12, 2013 00:56
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Rhyno posted:Seriously tempted by that blue man. I'm thinking of doing the Mini in this blue 
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Apr 12, 2013 01:23
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