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ChewedFood posted:He claims it's only got 30 hours on it and he showed me where it said 30 but how am I supposed to know if that's trip or total? If it was on the cluster its probably accurate. Not easy/possibly not possible to reset those. I've got a 2013 and I know there isn't a published way to. 30 hours is pretty low for an EXC, but if he didn't ride it on the street and only rode it on the trails, and not very often, it's not out of the realm of possibility. I did some searching and couldn't find any way to reset the factory hour meter in about 5 minutes of looking.
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Apr 9, 2013 02:58
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ChewedFood fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Dec 27, 2021 |
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Apr 9, 2013 03:22
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Safety Dance posted:Also, bike vampires. Seriously, sometimes my fuel injected bike likes to shut off when I come to a stop. Checked your oil level? Hard stops? In some cases this happens when the oil sump is at the rear of the engine and all the oil gets pushed to the front, the sudden drop in oil pressure can cause the ECU to kill the engine. I've managed to do it on my Triumph a few times during very hard stops when the oil was getting low.
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Apr 9, 2013 03:43
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FileNotFound posted:Checked your oil level? Hard stops? In some cases this happens when the oil sump is at the rear of the engine and all the oil gets pushed to the front, the sudden drop in oil pressure can cause the ECU to kill the engine. I've managed to do it on my Triumph a few times during very hard stops when the oil was getting low. Oil getting low? Bike vampires. (Thanks, I'll check that out.)
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Apr 9, 2013 04:16
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I swear the designers and engineers at Triumph must get completely plastered before doing any actual work.
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Apr 9, 2013 04:43
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theperminator posted:I swear the designers and engineers at Triumph must get completely plastered before doing any actual work. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HKEuzxC4eGc Yes.
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Apr 9, 2013 06:24
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Pie Colony posted:Finally, while taking it out around the block, I noticed after ~5 minutes riding that coming to a stop in 1st gear with the throttle completely closed shut off my engine instead of it just idling. I ended up needing to stop by disengaging the clutch, braking, but keeping the throttle open. Could this be caused by old/low fuel? There is definitely only a small amount left, and I'm sure it hasn't been refueled in a while. Or is it something else? It could be caused by old gas, but the first thing I'd check would be, again, the battery. Measure it with a multimeter and make sure that it's sitting at 12.6 volts when the bike is off. If the battery is low, the spark will be weak at low RPMs and the bike will want to stall. Get it fully charged. Then I would probably check the pilot jets in the carburetors. They do get clogged, and if you just adjust the idle screw it will temporarily cover up the problem, but your bike won't run right. Make sure they're squeaky clean. Once you have those clean, adjust your air/fuel mixture screws, and then finally mess with the idle screws. If you do all of that your stalling problems should be fixed. clutchpuck posted:Idle could be set too low, too. Where does it want to idle? Some bikes like 1000, some like it a few hundred higher. CB350s and 60s should idle between 1100 and 1300 RPM, yes. e: WAIT! You said there's only a small amount of fuel left? Before you do anything else, set your fuel petcock to "reserve" and see if that fixes it. And if it does, go fill up quickly because you probably only have about 10 to 20 miles left in the tank.
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Apr 9, 2013 07:32
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Thats a lot of work for what could probably be fixed by fresh gas, making sure the charging system is functional, and some seafoam and riding it hard.
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Apr 9, 2013 15:40
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Pie Colony posted:Finally, while taking it out around the block, I noticed after ~5 minutes riding that coming to a stop in 1st gear with the throttle completely closed shut off my engine instead of it just idling. I ended up needing to stop by disengaging the clutch, braking, but keeping the throttle open. Could this be caused by old/low fuel? There is definitely only a small amount left, and I'm sure it hasn't been refueled in a while. Or is it something else?
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Apr 9, 2013 16:58
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Sagebrush posted:e: WAIT! You said there's only a small amount of fuel left? Before you do anything else, set your fuel petcock to "reserve" and see if that fixes it. And if it does, go fill up quickly because you probably only have about 10 to 20 miles left in the tank. Z3n posted:Thats a lot of work for what could probably be fixed by fresh gas, making sure the charging system is functional, and some seafoam and riding it hard. What they said. You have a fairly textbook fuel supply problem. There's a number of things that can cause that, but none as fun or easy as just filling the tank with fresh gas and riding it dry a couple of times. If some miles and operation haven't fixed it, then start looking into other causes.
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Apr 9, 2013 17:43
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The other day my bike was handling kinda funny, like the tire pressure was a bit low, so I took off the carbs and cleaned them real good.
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Apr 9, 2013 20:06
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nsaP posted:The other day my bike was handling kinda funny, like the tire pressure was a bit low, so I took off the carbs and cleaned them real good. This is a time honored rite of passage - you only know how to do one thing on a bike so you always do that one thing and hope it makes it better. I remember adjusting the valves because the engine was lurching at freeway speed. Real problem? Chain had tightspotted to hell.  Never mind that the engine would have exploded in the last 3k miles of lurchy behavior if I had really had a bad valve adjustment, that nail looked an awful lot like it should be hit by my hammer...
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Apr 9, 2013 21:19
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nsaP posted:The other day my bike was handling kinda funny, like the tire pressure was a bit low, so I took off the carbs and cleaned them real good. Stop stealing my jokes you dick!
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Apr 9, 2013 21:22
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HNasty posted:Stop stealing my jokes you dick! If you clean your carbs out that should stop.
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Apr 9, 2013 21:38
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nsaP posted:The other day my bike was handling kinda funny, like the tire pressure was a bit low, so I took off the carbs and cleaned them real good. Funny, cleaning and adjusting my carbs is the first Big Thing I want to learn how to do. Looks like I have a mis-diagnosing future ahead of me
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Apr 9, 2013 23:01
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Although the Buell community is pretty good, they're awful about that sort of thing and the TPS. Crash your bike into a concrete barrier and all that's left is a smoldering wreck? Just reset the TPS. Install a fender eliminator? Make sure to reset the TPS afterwards. On later models you could reset the TPS by twisting the throttle three times with the bike on 'ON', I don't know if that just was to appease TPS reset addicts or if the thing really goes out of spec that quick.
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Apr 9, 2013 23:03
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Haha, definitely some truth to that; I have a friend who is completely neurotic about his Uly's TPS and won't quit fiddling with his idle.
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Apr 10, 2013 03:24
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My '79 CB650 has wandering idle. Sometimes it stays up at 2-3k and you can "pull" it down with the clutch and brake at a stop, and other times it's perfect at ~1100 instantly. I don't let myself be bothered by it, because it doesn't really affect driveability, and a bike is meant to be ridden, not stopped.
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Apr 10, 2013 05:05
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Geirskogul posted:My '79 CB650 has wandering idle. Sometimes it stays up at 2-3k and you can "pull" it down with the clutch and brake at a stop, and other times it's perfect at ~1100 instantly. I don't let myself be bothered by it, because it doesn't really affect driveability, and a bike is meant to be ridden, not stopped. Yeah. The thing doesn't really want to start, and won't hold a good idle until it gets warm. Solution: Don't hang around at lights until it's warm. Get it to turn over and rumble, then zoom off, not letting the rear wheel stop moving until 20 minutes have passed. One of these days, I'm going to get to have a discussion about filtering with some of the locals when they hit me. Although, I just flogged the rear end end off the thing after a full tank of seafoam and it's still cranky in the warm. I may ACTUALLY have to clean the carbs 
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Apr 10, 2013 06:34
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Good god I'm glad I have an injected bike.
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Apr 10, 2013 10:56
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Slavvy posted:Good god I'm glad I have an injected bike. Yeah, years of driving an old truck with an automatic choke that never worked right and required keeping my foot on the accelerator (while also keeping the clutch and brake in) at stop lights so it wouldn't die in the winter is one of the reasons I refused to consider a carbed bike.
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Apr 10, 2013 13:29
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Geirskogul posted:My '79 CB650 has wandering idle. Sometimes it stays up at 2-3k and you can "pull" it down with the clutch and brake at a stop, and other times it's perfect at ~1100 instantly. I don't let myself be bothered by it, because it doesn't really affect driveability, and a bike is meant to be ridden, not stopped. You have an intake boot leak. Slavvy posted:Good god I'm glad I have an injected bike. Having a fuel injected bike just means the idle won't wander, you'll still detonate, burn holes in pistons, and have really lovely off idle throttle response.
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Apr 10, 2013 14:53
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The injectors can also still clog up from sitting forever and require taking apart and cleaning. All that aside, it's still a vast improvement and gently caress carbs forever... except I can't stop acquiring carbureted bikes 2 questions: I have a 2001 SV650 (WITH CARBS) as a trade offer for the Shadow that I'll likely take as a commuter. It has a single bar-end mirror, tiny aftermarket signals, aftermarket gauges, aftermarket dual headlights, and the tires are chicken strip free. I'm assuming this spent some time as a track rat and has likely been down a time or two before getting streetfightered. The title is clear and not salvage or rebuilt, but to me that just means it's likely wreck wasn't reported to insurance. Anything to pay close attention to to be sure this bike won't kill me the first time I try and put it on the highway? The person trading it is doing so on behalf of a friend who claims to know nothing about the bike. The odometer shows 200 miles on it but there's no way of knowing what was on before the odo was replaced. The title will presumably have the mileage from whenever it was last transferred so there's that. 2. In prep for the max's (AND ITS CARBS) long road trip I was looking to get one of those simple 3 color LED battery indicators, and decided I didn't have time to fab it correctly where I want it to go. So I started looking at the Kury handlebar mount variety and eventually ended up way the hell out of the ballpark on this shift light. It has built-in battery and over-voltage indicators you see... It has occurred to me after the fact I haven't the slightest clue how to install these. Is it just a matter of wiring into the existing tach instrument wires or can I expect a lengthy process? Halo_4am fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Apr 10, 2013 |
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Apr 10, 2013 17:43
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Yeah. The thing doesn't really want to start, and won't hold a good idle until it gets warm. Solution: Don't hang around at lights until it's warm. Get it to turn over and rumble, then zoom off, not letting the rear wheel stop moving until 20 minutes have passed. Or give it some choke and warm it up before riding. Unless you too have an air-leak or other lean condition that fucks up your idle . . .
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Apr 10, 2013 17:46
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Halo_4am posted:The injectors can also still clog up from sitting forever and require taking apart and cleaning. All that aside, it's still a vast improvement and gently caress carbs forever... except I can't stop acquiring carbureted bikes EFI is a semi-recent thing on bikes, too (2013 Vstars are still being sold with CV carbs). Along those lines, I bet a lot of the fear of carbs here is a result of riding antique, neglected, cheap old things that often get recommended to the newbies. Most carbureted bikes I've rode work just fine and don't need a lot of attention. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 18:20 on Apr 10, 2013 |
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Apr 10, 2013 18:18
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clutchpuck posted:I bet a lot of the fear of carbs here is a result of riding antique, neglected, cheap old things that often get recommended to the newbies. Most carbureted bikes I've rode work just fine and don't need a lot of attention. This. This again and again. My carburated 1982 GS650E, sat in my garage for four months. And to start it come spring, I turned it on prime for 30 seconds, and pressed the starter. It was not on a battery tender. The battery is two years old.
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Apr 10, 2013 19:04
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A carbed bike that is ridden regularly will have no more or less fuel system related issues than an FI bike. In fact it'll probably have less because there is no fuel pump to die. My 42 year old Yamaha has given me essentially 0 carb related issues that weren't related to tuning in a new set of pipes. The problem pretty much everyone encounters with carbs is related to a bike that has sat far too long. FI bikes will have similar problems when they start sitting for the lengths of times required to really clog up a carb.
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Apr 10, 2013 19:42
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Nerobro posted:Having a fuel injected bike just means the idle won't wander, you'll still detonate, burn holes in pistons, and have really lovely off idle throttle response. Haha what? Seriously? Carbs: perfect in every way. Efi: BURN HOLES IN YOUR PISTONS because honda/suzuki/kawasaki/yamaha don't have any idea how to build a completely mature technology that has been around for decades and even the most fundamental aspects of engine design elude them. Right. n8r posted:A carbed bike that is ridden regularly will have no more or less fuel system related issues than an FI bike. In fact it'll probably have less because there is no fuel pump to die. My 42 year old Yamaha has given me essentially 0 carb related issues that weren't related to tuning in a new set of pipes. I'm sorry, this is plain old not true. Carbs will not last 100,000km's without anything besides the air filter being touched. Carbs need regular tinkering, balancing, cleaning on top of any issues that crop up, which they do, because carbs are finicky mechanical devices which wear out rapidly, clog and fall out of synchronisation. Issues on efi bikes specifically caused by or related to the efi tend to be rare and unusual (at least with the japanese bikes, I can't speak for european or american brands). The idea that 'there is less to go wrong' with carbs is just flagrantly bullshit. Efi has all of three or four sensors (all of which are extremely simple), a bunch of wires, a handful of fuel injectors (which are directly derived from automotive items and are also dead simple), a fuel pump and a rugged ecu which works fine if you don't gently caress with it. Carbs have dozens of small fragile parts which wear out, they are fundamentally imprecise and incredibly sensitive to the slightest abuse or poor conditions. The fact is that on an injected bike you just don't have to touch the fuel system and it will work fine. There are no caveats about routine maintenance or balancing or bullshit cold startup routines or whatever. You just don't touch it and it works fine. Rah.
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Apr 10, 2013 20:34
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Seriously passionate about oil filters and fuel delivery systems in this forum lately. He wasn't saying those conditions are caused by EFI. He was saying they're not prevented by EFI because it's not the pure magic many seem to think. EFI is sensor dependent, and those sensors fail with some regularity. An ambient temperature sensor dies then suddenly a check engine light is on, and the bike is chugging hard when it was running just fine moments earlier. It will require some diagnosis and maintenance and maybe digging into hard to get at places to resolve. Like carbs it can require tearing into the bike to actually fix, but unlike carbs, the diagnosis can be had in minutes with a computer. It does need occasional tuning, but unlike carbs, instead of an hour with vacuum tubes and dials it can be done in minutes with a computer. It's a vast improvement, and with the crazier tech that's coming out like what Yamaha drops in the R1 and Gen2 Max (YCC-T and YCC-I) it's not only an improvement in maintenance but also performance and fuel economy. It also gives neat things like 'no-wheelie mode' on various models. Something rare if not outright unheard of when you couldn't do that with a different computerized config, but instead had to use physical equipment like additional carbs/valves/servos/etc. These are clear improvements despite the 1-2 pages dudes spent talking about throttle response a little bit ago. It does still need maintenance, and if you left it sitting in a tool shed for 10 years it would need as much a carbed bike. Maybe more thanks to electrical faults on ratty old electrical systems now having more potential than ever to totally gently caress with how a bike runs. Halo_4am fucked around with this message at 21:15 on Apr 10, 2013 |
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Apr 10, 2013 21:11
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Slavvy posted:Haha what? Seriously? Before you run off being a dick, know who you're having the argument with. Kay? quote:I'm sorry, this is plain old not true. Carbs will not last 100,000km's without anything besides the air filter being touched. Carbs need regular tinkering, balancing, cleaning on top of any issues that crop up, which they do, because carbs are finicky mechanical devices which wear out rapidly, clog and fall out of synchronisation. Issues on efi bikes specifically caused by or related to the efi tend to be rare and unusual (at least with the japanese bikes, I can't speak for european or american brands. People forget that EFI bikes need synchronization as frequently as Carb bikes. The CARBS do not lose sync. They're essentially non wearing. The synchronization is to match the VALVES wearing on the bike. Carbs do not need regular tinkering. If you're regularly tinkering with your carbs, you. YOU. Are doing something wrong. Much the same for people with power commanders. The story is the same. Yes, carbs are more sensitive to varnishing. Yup. that's a problem with carbs. EFI is dependant on a strong electrical system and a fuel pump. Yup. quote:Carbs have dozens of small fragile parts which wear out, they are fundamentally imprecise and incredibly sensitive to the slightest abuse or poor conditions. Yes, efi is better. Isn't a reason why I'd chose one bike over another. If there were two bikes to chose from, one has damper rod suspension with efi and the other has ohlins and carbs, I'm taking the carbed bike without even breaking step to think. quote:The fact is that on an injected bike you just don't have to touch the fuel system and it will work fine. There are no caveats about routine maintenance or balancing or bullshit cold startup routines or whatever. You just don't touch it and it works fine. Rah.
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Apr 10, 2013 21:25
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Halo_4am posted:The injectors can also still clog up from sitting forever and require taking apart and cleaning. All that aside, it's still a vast improvement and gently caress carbs forever... except I can't stop acquiring carbureted bikes SV650 motors are pretty bullet proof. Those engines last a long time. First gens can have R/R problems, so watch out for that . There's nothing other than standard stuff that I can think of. Check for cracked seals, brake fluid, lube stuff up, the usual. E: Depending on the length of your commute, you might want to look into some pads or an aftermarket seat. The SV's stock is a plank of wood. its all nice on rice fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Apr 10, 2013 |
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Apr 10, 2013 21:29
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Slavvy posted:The fact is that on an injected bike you just don't have to touch the fuel system and it will work fine. There are no caveats about routine maintenance or balancing or bullshit cold startup routines or whatever. You just don't touch it and it works fine. Rah. This is wrong, you are living on another planet. You still have to vacuum synchronize EFI. Examples: we do it on my wife's EFI beemer, we did it on my EFI Vstar, I know it should be done on SVs - and it takes like 10 minutes. You do it on any EFI system that runs multiple throttle bodies - which is pretty much any multi-cylinder motorcycle except for Harleys and maybe a couple others. Also, carburetors will last a fuckload of miles without being torn down or tinkered with. I have a friend with a '98 Road King has about 90,000km and the carb has never been tinkered with except to occasionally dial in the idle and once to re-jet for a port and polish. They're fiddly and require attention and are fragile and will break if you breathe on them... maybe, if they've been stored full of corn fuel sitting under a plastic tarp in salt air for the last 25 years.
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Apr 10, 2013 21:36
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I have a feeling the image that carbs "require a lot of work all the time," comes from project threads and help threads and discussions posted everywhere when people pick up an old UJM or otherwise ratty bike and do a restoration then post about it. You don't hear from the guy that bought a taken-care-of CB750 or BMW R60/5 and just rode it, but you do hear a lot, over and over, from the guy that bought the 1980 Suzuki GS400E barn find and discovered the carburetors were full of aluminum oxide and death, and spends 40 pages and five months finding rebuild kits and learning to sync the carbs from new, rusted-through gas tank and missing dials notwithstanding. In the same vein, a working carburetor isn't brought into a shop for work, but the busted one or the one that needs retuning because a guy did an at-home Dremel "port and polish" is, and gets a lot more attention from the mechanic and creates stories that are told for months. When an EFI breaks, you either fix it yourself or get it fixed/replaced at the shop, or you're the type of person to remap your own bike when you change out components. The old "backyard mechanic" that refuses to work on cars made after 1996 tends to weave an aura of obfuscation around EFI because he doesn't understand how electricity really works (or whatever), then passes those stories and point of views to his buddies, and you get this stigma of perfection and mystery due to ignorance around something that is essentially the same thing as a carburetor. This filters out to the internet (where like-minded people tend to group together and create subcultures), and boom, arguments like what we're having in this thread are born. This is the same reason Royal Enfield waited awhile (until 2009 in the US) to introduce their EFI models (that had been available for a few years in India), because the people that were buying Enfields in the US, judging from enthusiast forum and meeting responses, were "affird" of anything with a computer (ignoring the fact that they have had CDI ignitions since 2003) and they projected sales to actually drop for a few years after the changeover (read this from Kevin Mahoney, RE USA's CEO, on their forums). People have since figured out that the EFI model requires only slightly less maintenance than the carb'd model, and it has possibly even more "tinkerability," but it took a few years for that message to spread out. It's a stupid subculture. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 21:52 on Apr 10, 2013 |
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Apr 10, 2013 21:46
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I'm glad you guys :effortposted: the response to Slavvy because I probably would have said something like: Lol you're dumb you've never worked on carbs and been done with it. That being said I think you can say that the real advance between a ~1970s bike and today is modern ignition systems. Points are definitely something that may not take 'tinkering' but there is a little bit of maintenance required to keep one in good running shape.
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Apr 10, 2013 22:00
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Carbs and EFI are both equally optimal for daily use and require the same amount of effort to learn, diagnose, and fix issues. If you wanna argue rant about something, rant about K-Jet and D-Jet. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4fJAfXYxWk
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Apr 10, 2013 22:44
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n8r posted:I'm glad you guys :effortposted: the response to Slavvy because I probably would have said something like: Every bike I've owned besides my most recent two were carby, but thanks for your blanket assumption about what I have and haven't done. Xovaan posted:Carbs and EFI are both equally optimal for daily use and require the same amount of effort to learn, diagnose, and fix issues. K-jetronic: worst of both worlds! Ultimately my point is that carby bikes only currently exist because of industrial inertia as Geirskogul has pointed out, and they are inferior in every way both from an owner's and mechanic's point of view. No, I wouldn't buy a bike with a crap chassis and engine but efi over an early R1 with carbs. Yes, early injected systems have cold start levers, but this is down to cost and laziness on the part of the manufacturer as implementing cold start mapping is a piece of cake. Modern bikes have fly by wire and I can assure you the throttle response blows away any carburettor as it is instant, there's no waiting for airspeed to increase or fuel to atomise.
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Apr 10, 2013 23:25
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All those responses to your post and n8's is the only one you choose to acknowledge? lol
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Apr 10, 2013 23:34
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Guys, why are we arguing? Can't we all just agree that no matter what technology is in use it only *really* sucks if it's on a Harley?
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Apr 10, 2013 23:43
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nsaP posted:All those responses to your post and n8's is the only one you choose to acknowledge? lol No, I just didn't want to create an even bigger wall of text packed with quotes. Do you exist just to nitpick? I have a question: I've never fooled around with a powercommander. How are they implement physically ie do they just splice in between the ecu and sensors, or what? How do they actually work? And are they somewhat generic across models and brands or are they model specific, so when people say 'has a power commander fitted' they mean 'has a power commander designed for a gsx-r750 fitted', or what? Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Guys, why are we arguing? Can't we all just agree that no matter what technology is in use it only *really* sucks if it's on a Harley? Preach brother.
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Apr 10, 2013 23:59
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Fight fight fight! No but imo EFI bikes do make life easier, sure if you ride regularly and are somewhat mechanically knowledgeable a carb *CAN be as reliable and stable as EFI. However for clowns like me EFI makes life a lot easier. Slavvy come to IRC we love to argue.
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Apr 11, 2013 00:00
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