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Cat Terrist posted:Depends. Plan on hitting anything and bending the skidplate? 1 cm should be enough, depending on the quality of your engine mounts. Turns out it's exactly 1 inch below the the low point of the Borla Headers. Oh well.
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Apr 10, 2013 02:00
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Farking Bastage posted:I'll be curious to see what this thing can really do once it hits 1k on the clock and I can turn it loose. Oh just put your foot down. Think of it this way, when was the last time someone took a test drive of a sporty/sports car and didn't put their wind the motor out a few times? Go have fun, it's what the car is for.
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Apr 10, 2013 03:53
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Exactly. A buddy of mine worked at a dealership for a while, and part of his job there was the Pre-Delivery Inspection, going over every car that came off the trailer to make sure it was 100% functional. This included putting it through the wringer during the "does it drive" part and they've never had any problems with premature engine failure. From what I've gathered from other dealer techs I've spoken with, this is pretty standard no matter the make. I guarantee every new car you see on a dealer lot has done a full-on-sprint 0-60 run at least once, even if it only has 2 miles on it. Just drive it how you would if it was broken in, follow the maintenance schedule, and enjoy it.
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Apr 10, 2013 04:23
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Terrible Robot posted:Exactly. A buddy of mine worked at a dealership for a while, and part of his job there was the Pre-Delivery Inspection, going over every car that came off the trailer to make sure it was 100% functional. This included putting it through the wringer during the "does it drive" part and they've never had any problems with premature engine failure. From what I've gathered from other dealer techs I've spoken with, this is pretty standard no matter the make. I guarantee every new car you see on a dealer lot has done a full-sprint 0-60 run at least once, even if it only has 2 miles on it. Just drive it how you would if it was broken in, follow the maintenance schedule, and enjoy it. Then get an accessport.
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Apr 10, 2013 04:24
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I think pretty much every car made by every MFG gets a full dyno pull just before it rolls of the assembly line. For me a break-in is moderate boost, moderate revs, and plenty of engine braking for a week or two. Then change the oil and do whatever.
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Apr 10, 2013 04:26
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So don't bother with a 1000 mile break in period? The '13 STI I ordered should arrive in a couple weeks and making sure I break it in properly is one of my main concerns when I get it.
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Apr 10, 2013 05:42
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Meat Mitts posted:So don't bother with a 1000 mile break in period? The '13 STI I ordered should arrive in a couple weeks and making sure I break it in properly is one of my main concerns when I get it. Every new car I've purchased I've just driven as I normally would on a daily basis and have not had any issues. Just don't abuse it (which is basically good advise for any car at any time) and you should be just fine. Also especially on the STI's, get an accessport (or tantrix cable) and flash a stage 1 map to your ECU. Something something, soft pistons, something something.
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Apr 10, 2013 06:09
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Meat Mitts posted:So don't bother with a 1000 mile break in period? The '13 STI I ordered should arrive in a couple weeks and making sure I break it in properly is one of my main concerns when I get it. Supposedly the "take it easy" on a new engine mantra is a holdover from the days of poor machining processes. Modern engines are built with much better tolerances and the only part of the engine that really needs to break in are the piston rings, which, incidentally, are best broken in by hard acceleration and engine breaking. Don't do any hard launches or anything like that (it is possible to destroy a clutch that isn't broken in by abusing it), but spirited driving isn't going to hurt the engine. With all that said, I have over 900 miles on my 2013 now and I did my first 6K RPM pull in first tonight--this car is a lot of fun.
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Apr 10, 2013 06:26
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il serpente cosmico posted:Don't do any hard launches or anything like that (it is possible to destroy a clutch that isn't broken in by abusing it), but spirited driving isn't going to hurt the engine. That's what I love about ACT clutches. Rip a 5000rpm launch and then drive gingerly for a day or two and it's good to go.
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Apr 10, 2013 06:37
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I never considered proper break-in procedure, but I think learning to drive manual achieved the same results.
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Apr 10, 2013 12:11
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Amandyke posted:Then get an accessport. I have a USB ODB2 interface I used on my last car. I'm Considering messing about with rom raider( read only of course ) I'm not babying it, but I have been keeping it out of the red and getting about 23 MPG on about a 70/30 split of highway and city driving.
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Apr 10, 2013 13:10
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Cool, I wasn't planning on doing Amandyke posted:Also especially on the STI's, get an accessport (or tantrix cable) and flash a stage 1 map to your ECU. Something something, soft pistons, something something. I am going to get an accessport in maybe 6 months or so for a stage 1 flash. should I get the accessport right away instead?
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Apr 10, 2013 13:13
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Meat Mitts posted:Cool, I wasn't planning on doing Many people say accessport right away. In general I agree since the before/after contrast is so stark. However, I waited a 1.25 years before I got mine, but if I had to do it again I would have only waited 6 months or so. I don't know what your reasons are for picking 6 months, but mine would be/were to make absolutely sure the car was not a factory lemon. I'm not sure what the best way to accomplish this is. I just didn't want to buy a new motor "because of the AP" when it really was a manufacturing defect. Just my 2 cents 
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Apr 10, 2013 14:18
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I'm probably going to pull the trigger on a '13 Impreza Sport Limited this weekend. Anything I should know before taking the plunge? Is the CVT generally fairly reliable? Also, does the 'change all four tires at the same time' rule still apply? I know the CVT has a different AWD system from the manual version that only applies power to the rear wheels as needed.
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Apr 10, 2013 14:38
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Augmented Dickey posted:I'm probably going to pull the trigger on a '13 Impreza Sport Limited this weekend. Anything I should know before taking the plunge? Is the CVT generally fairly reliable? I think the CVTs are a little too new to show any reliability issues but I think the automatics and now the 5 speeds are generally reliable. Subaru transmissions had issues especially in 2002, becuase people did drop clutch starts in a powerful AWD car, not a 140 BHP FWD Honda Civic like they were used to. 2003 saw an upgrade to the gear width and I think the transmissions were changed again in 2006 and are known to be more reliable.
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Apr 10, 2013 15:10
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From what I recall the CVT still puts power to all 4 wheels but instead of a 50/50 split it is 60/40 or maybe 70/30 by default.
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Apr 10, 2013 15:25
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Man, getting an AP for my brand new '13 WRX is so tempting, but so is that 60,000mi powertrain warranty 
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Apr 10, 2013 15:44
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Supposedly, all they will see when they scan your PCM if you were to flash it back to factory before taking it in, would be the NVRAM being reset as if you disconnected the battery. There's been all kinds of wild theories as far as running checksums against your ROm and poo poo like that, but I highly doubt your average tech is going to dig that deep unless you are making some sort of Lemon law claim. I will not be touching mine until the Lemon period is over.
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Apr 10, 2013 15:53
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BoyBlunder posted:Man, getting an AP for my brand new '13 WRX is so tempting, but so is that 60,000mi powertrain warranty The AP will *not* void your warranty. So don't worry about that.
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Apr 10, 2013 15:55
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Augmented Dickey posted:I know the CVT has a different AWD system from the manual version that only applies power to the rear wheels as needed. What's the opposite of a fun fact? 
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Apr 10, 2013 15:56
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:What's the opposite of a fun fact? Sobering reality
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Apr 10, 2013 15:56
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Many people say accessport right away. In general I agree since the before/after contrast is so stark. However, I waited a 1.25 years before I got mine, but if I had to do it again I would have only waited 6 months or so. I don't know what your reasons are for picking 6 months, but mine would be/were to make absolutely sure the car was not a factory lemon. I'm not sure what the best way to accomplish this is. I just didn't want to buy a new motor "because of the AP" when it really was a manufacturing defect. Just my 2 cents My reasons for waiting 6 months are the same as yours. Also, the sti will be my first new car ever, which will be quite the upgrade from my college beater. I'd like to appreciate it in it's stock tune first before giving it more power. This way I'll get twice the thrills.
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Apr 10, 2013 23:08
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Totally TWISTED posted:From what I recall the CVT still puts power to all 4 wheels but instead of a 50/50 split it is 60/40 or maybe 70/30 by default. The automatics have been this way since forever, only the 5MT ever had a 50/50 split when there was no wheel slip. It really, really doesn't matter and in fact gets you better mileage for the vast majority of the time the wheels aren't slipping so there's nothing to complain about. If the poo poo gets rough they will go to a 50/50 split just fine.
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Apr 11, 2013 09:17
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Sudo Echo posted:The automatics have been this way since forever, only the 5MT ever had a 50/50 split when there was no wheel slip. It really, really doesn't matter and in fact gets you better mileage for the vast majority of the time the wheels aren't slipping so there's nothing to complain about. If the poo poo gets rough they will go to a 50/50 split just fine. Is this the same for an Auto Impreza? I had read somewhere that it was a 90/10 split other places say it's 60/40 and only when it slips it changes to 50/50.
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Apr 11, 2013 13:16
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Meat Mitts posted:My reasons for waiting 6 months are the same as yours. Also, the sti will be my first new car ever, which will be quite the upgrade from my college beater. I'd like to appreciate it in it's stock tune first before giving it more power. This way I'll get twice the thrills. "Safety" aside, the factory tune sucks. I remember someone on here saying it looks like you could cut down a tree with it, and that's how it feels. Ragged and unpredictable. I don't really need the extra power of the AP I just like to drive the car better with it as a result of the smooth, linear power delivery. So I guess what I'm saying is, don't drive a tuned STi because it will spoil the stock tune for you 
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Apr 11, 2013 14:40
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Kolta posted:Is this the same for an Auto Impreza? I had read somewhere that it was a 90/10 split other places say it's 60/40 and only when it slips it changes to 50/50. The old 4eats were supposedly 90/10 and then once the weird vdc poo poo hit the scene they were 60/40.
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Apr 11, 2013 17:05
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:I remember someone on here saying it looks like you could cut down a tree with it, and that's how it feels. Ragged and unpredictable. I have noticed that very thing. Sometimes it is putting along at half throttle and 3500 RPM, sometimes it's white knuckling it at half throttoe and 3500 RPM.
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Apr 11, 2013 19:44
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Doesn't the ECU's default map run a little lean around 4K? That'd explain the weird jolt feeling
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Apr 11, 2013 20:11
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il serpente cosmico posted:Doesn't the ECU's default map run a little lean around 4K? That'd explain the weird jolt feeling Around that yes. Thanks emissions testing.
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Apr 12, 2013 01:32
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I've got an 03 Forester X with about 82k miles, and it's started making a new and possibly expensive noise. Starting at about 40MPH, there's a whining sound coming from what I'm pretty sure is the rear differential . The noise gets louder and quieter as the speed increases and decreases, but doesn't seem to be tied to engine RPM or a specific gear (I have the 5spd manual), which leads me to believe it's coming from the differential as opposed to the transmission. I've checked the levels of the engine and transmission oil (I realize the differential is separate, but I don't have access to a decent jack), and both of them are at the normal levels and look fine. From what I can see of the differential (and the concrete under my parking space), there don't seem to be any fluid leaks from the vehicle. Is this something that's going to cause the differential to shred itself relatively soon, or would something like getting the differential fluid changed solve the issue?
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Apr 13, 2013 04:59
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azflyboy posted:I've got an 03 Forester X with about 82k miles, and it's started making a new and possibly expensive noise. Could be a wheel bearing. Do you notice a growling noise before it? If not I know my WRX will whine from 65-70 MPH but that's fairly normal.
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Apr 13, 2013 12:21
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Yakattak posted:Could be a wheel bearing. Do you notice a growling noise before it? If not I know my WRX will whine from 65-70 MPH but that's fairly normal. I didn't notice a growling noise, and the sound seems to be coming from along the middle of the car. I'm starting to think the noise may have been there a while, since I realized that I only noticed it after I tweaked the side mirror mounts to get rid of the wind noise at highway speeds, which may have been covering up that noise for years.
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Apr 13, 2013 21:51
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It's either wheel bearing or diff. If you live in a rust area the wheel bearing is a bitch job because of the big rear end bolt that likes to seize to the lateral link bushings. If it's a diff, it takes longer, but its an easy in out once you have a replacement. Neither one of those things are deal-breakers condemning the car to death.
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Apr 13, 2013 23:30
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The STi has started consuming more oil rather suddenly. I stopped at a light and got a strong smell of oil burning, but I can't see any leaks. What am i in for?
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Apr 14, 2013 00:03
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burtonos posted:The STi has started consuming more oil rather suddenly. I stopped at a light and got a strong smell of oil burning, but I can't see any leaks. What am i in for? A trip to a shop for a leak down test and turbo inspection is my guess. If its not leaking it, there are only so many other places it can go.
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Apr 14, 2013 00:16
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Sockington posted:A trip to a shop for a leak down test and turbo inspection is my guess. If its not leaking it, there are only so many other places it can go. I just bought that bloody turbo! loving P&L Motorsports! 
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Apr 14, 2013 00:33
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Traded in my Volvo S40 for a Slowbaru today Absolutely love it so far.
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Apr 14, 2013 00:46
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burtonos posted:The STi has started consuming more oil rather suddenly. I stopped at a light and got a strong smell of oil burning, but I can't see any leaks. What am i in for? If you're lucky, you have leak in one of the oil feed lines or the head cover gaskets. Both of those will leak oil right onto the exhaust. If a new turbo was just installed, it could be that oil feed line.
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Apr 14, 2013 00:49
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Augmented Dickey posted:Traded in my Volvo S40 for a Slowbaru today I thought that was a mini van from that angle.
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Apr 14, 2013 13:40
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Augmented Dickey posted:Traded in my Volvo S40 for a Slowbaru today I'm having a tough time deciding which new Subaru to go with - the Crosstrek, the '14 Forester, or the Impreza Sport. The Crosstrek and new Forester are about the same size, ground clearance, etc except the Forester has a bigger engine. Decisions decisisons...
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