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They do but frankly I'd probably try and push start it, getting everything turning over usually gets things running better. I'd also disconnect the fuel lines and hotwire the fuel pump for a bit to get the old crap out of the lines. That'll make it not start something fierce.
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Apr 15, 2013 22:42
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looking at this tomorrow--suggestions on fair offer? http://baltimore.craigslist.org/mcy/3740985402.html
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Apr 16, 2013 00:38
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I'd pay $5500. Few price ideas / other bikes $6500 firm http://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=80409 (this one is close to you, cheaper, and far nicer.......) $6200 asking http://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=65897 $6800 asking http://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=67252 $6500 asking http://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=67704
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Apr 16, 2013 00:52
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I didn't get much traction in the 'tell me what to buy' thread so I'll try here. I'm going to go look at this: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=582826848 I'm looking at it because the market here is such that if I want an actual sportsbike, I could get this, or I could pay about two grand more for an early 00's 600SS that I don't want. Does anyone have any first-hand experience with these? Anything I should look out for? All the 'big' sportsbikes I've ridden have been post-2000, I've got no experience with a dinosaur like this. What would the handling be like compared to something more modern? Assuming, of course, the guy isn't full of poo poo about the reworked suspension and low-mileage engine.
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Apr 16, 2013 01:19
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I hate any bike that has a "reworked engine". Chances of it being done right are about 10-20%, in my experience, which means you better get it cheap enough to justify a rebuild. Older bikes tend to be rather stable handling, not super flickable, excluding the 900 CBRs and a couple of other random models. It'll also be heavy. But they can be quick in the right hands, just like most bikes. If you didn't have a particular reason to buy a ZX7R though I wouldn't.
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Apr 16, 2013 01:34
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Z3n posted:I hate any bike that has a "reworked engine". Chances of it being done right are about 10-20%, in my experience, which means you better get it cheap enough to justify a rebuild. Older bikes tend to be rather stable handling, not super flickable, excluding the 900 CBRs and a couple of other random models. It'll also be heavy. But they can be quick in the right hands, just like most bikes. If you didn't have a particular reason to buy a ZX7R though I wouldn't. My only real reason is that I can't seem to find anything with similar sort of power/weight and handling in that price range. Every 600SS I've ridden I found pretty ghastly for lack of torque, but I have an irrational fear of litresports. The most powerful bike I've ridden daily was a hornet 919 and that felt pretty comfortable performance-wise, but I want the handling, full-fairing and other qualities of a sportsbike.
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Apr 16, 2013 01:42
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Has kickass tubes going into the tank; instant buy. Love those ZX7Rs. So hot.
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Apr 16, 2013 02:25
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Slavvy posted:My only real reason is that I can't seem to find anything with similar sort of power/weight and handling in that price range. Every 600SS I've ridden I found pretty ghastly for lack of torque, but I have an irrational fear of litresports. The most powerful bike I've ridden daily was a hornet 919 and that felt pretty comfortable performance-wise, but I want the handling, full-fairing and other qualities of a sportsbike. Find yourself a honda 929/954/gsx-r 750, they have better midranges. I mainly got a 954 to play around with but i'm really falling for it. early RSV mille or Honda RC51 also come to mind of you want nice midrange torque but not the crazy high horsepower of an inline 4 literbike. 4000$ for a 91 ZX7r is way too much.
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Apr 16, 2013 03:14
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There are endearing 80s style paintjobs, that isn't one of them. KAWASAKI on the side? Egh. Like the lights tho.
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Apr 16, 2013 03:16
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infraboy posted:Find yourself a honda 929/954/gsx-r 750, they have better midranges. I mainly got a 954 to play around with but i'm really falling for it. RC51 start at 8 grand around here, RSV mille not much less. 954/later gsx-r750 are usually about 6500-8000; if I could buy any of those it would be a no-brainer, trust me. The nearest competitor to this price/performance-wise are early R6's, cbr600f4i's etc and all of them start at 5000. NZ is not a nice place to buy used bikes.
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Apr 16, 2013 03:51
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Crap that means it's around 3300-3400$ US for that ZX7r :o
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Apr 16, 2013 03:55
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I can personally attest to fuel injectors developing a nice solid varnish layer when they've sat for a couple years. poo poo's nasty.
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Apr 16, 2013 04:06
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An F4i would be a better choice. Here's the thing about older bikes. Stiff stuff gets flexier and soft stuff gets stiffer. Swingarm and steering bearings wear out. Fork and shock oil break down. Stuff starts getting play in it. Clutches get slippage, brake lines swell. Tolerances deteriorate. This probably doesn't matter if you're getting an old cruiser or runabout, but if you're looking for performance, odds are either you're not going to get much anything like it had new, or you're going to spend a ton refurbishing it to new condition (or paying someone else to do same.) The ZX-7R may be a fun ride but it'll probably get smoked by a decently maintained F4i. From MCN: quote:Reliability is good – you’re not likely to get stuck at the side of the road with a stationary Kawasaki ZX-7R. But build quality’s less impressive. Down pipes rust, wheel and brake caliper paint drops off, chassis bearings fail as few were greased when the Kawasaki ZX-7R was sold and suspension wears fast. Also, like Z3n says, the more the PO / POs have done to the bike, the more nightmarish mess you may end up dealing with. Swapping an engine is already a big tell. If you don't have the money to get what you want, save more money, don't buy something that's more likely to bring you trouble than joy.
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Apr 16, 2013 04:13
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Righto. It is irritating because anything that looks like a sportbike here commands an enormous, retarded premium. I can get a mint hornet 919 or sv1000 for 4500-5000 but as soon as it gets a fairing and USD forks the price skyrockets for no reason. For comparison's sake, I got my K3 sv650 with 50,000km's on the clock, with a slight dent in the tank and other minor deficiencies, for $4000NZD in December. This was a particularly good deal and I'm likely to sell it now for at least that much.
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Apr 16, 2013 04:16
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As Snowdens says, the F4i would be a good choice. They will run forever and aren't as peaky as current 600s.
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Apr 16, 2013 04:39
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As my experience increases, so does my lean angle. I have k60_scout tires on my vstrom. I'd say I've been a cautious rider so far (when it comes to speed + turning), but leaning more is starting to feel better instead of scarier. Then again my tires look like they are less street and more offroad. I don't know anything about tires and they came with the bike. Someone tell me they're fine and I can lean away with abandon. When I say lean, I'm far from dragging a knee, but the bike is banked around 45 degrees over at low to moderate speed (say around 50mph), and slightly sticking my shoulder and hip out to absorb some lateral force just feels really, really good.
epswing fucked around with this message at 04:59 on Apr 16, 2013 |
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Apr 16, 2013 04:54
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If it feels good, you aren't leaning too far. It'd be a good plan to back off when they feel squirmy.
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Apr 16, 2013 05:25
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clutchpuck posted:If it feels good, you aren't leaning too far. It'd be a good plan to back off when they feel squirmy. Serious question: what does this feel like? I've always just experienced grip-grip-grip-grip-tyreslidinglaterally.
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Apr 16, 2013 05:28
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Slavvy posted:Serious question: what does this feel like? I've always just experienced grip-grip-grip-grip-tyreslidinglaterally. It happens on knobbier patterns, the tires sort of wiggle around under you as the tread flexes. Those k60s don't look particularly knobby so I bet you could ride them as far over as a Strom will like to be without any weirdness though.
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Apr 16, 2013 05:34
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clutchpuck posted:It happens on knobbier patterns, the tires sort of wiggle around under you as the tread flexes. Those k60s don't look particularly knobby so I bet you could ride them as far over as a Strom will like to be without any weirdness though. Ah I getcha. So normal sports/road tyres will do what? Just lose grip suddenly? I ask because I've always learned how much grip any given bike I'm on has by deliberately trying to provoke a loss of grip, hopefully without crashing in the process, and then just knowing not to push quite that hard. When I read bike magazines and see people talking, they always talk about being able to 'feel' how much grip you have, like in a car. Am I tone-deaf to tyre feel somehow or is there something I'm missing? I've never felt a difference in sensation through the bars, pegs, seat etc until the bike just loses grip and starts sliding.
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Apr 16, 2013 06:02
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Halo_4am posted:That sounds more like when he put the pigtail connector on the battery for the tender he didn't tighten the terminals all the way down and was getting arcs and what not. That or there was already a lot of corrosion from whatever battery got replaced which created a ton of a resistance and heat. edit: turns out a tow truck tried to give him a jump start. not sure what happened there but I believe that may have been the melted terminal culprit. (his bike died at a nearby gas station, and I towed it back) On the up-side his odometer now reads 0. 
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Apr 16, 2013 06:15
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BlackMK4 posted:I'd pay $5500. Solid info--thank you for taking the time to do that. I'm going to offer him 5k and go from there.
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Apr 16, 2013 13:19
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Slavvy posted:Ah I getcha. So normal sports/road tyres will do what? Just lose grip suddenly? I ask because I've always learned how much grip any given bike I'm on has by deliberately trying to provoke a loss of grip, hopefully without crashing in the process, and then just knowing not to push quite that hard. When I read bike magazines and see people talking, they always talk about being able to 'feel' how much grip you have, like in a car. Am I tone-deaf to tyre feel somehow or is there something I'm missing? I've never felt a difference in sensation through the bars, pegs, seat etc until the bike just loses grip and starts sliding. I'd like to hear from the more experienced guys on this too. I've had the back end get a bit squirmy on me a couple of times and I didn't really feel any difference between solid grip > squirming around. Unless the squirmy bit is actually the tyre telling me to stop taking the piss before it goes into a slide? If it helps I seem to notice it most when I'm accelerating out of a corner and just reducing the speed at which I'm rolling on throttle tends to sort it out.
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Apr 16, 2013 16:42
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clutchpuck posted:If it feels good, you aren't leaning too far. It'd be a good plan to back off when they feel squirmy. This vstrom crash is exactly what I'm afraid of. This guy is just cruising along, not doing anything wrong as far as I can see, and the bike just falls over. Bad tires? Something slippery on the road? I want to start pushing my personal limits, leaning further while traveling faster, while staying mostly within posted speed limits of course, but if the drat thing is just going to fall over :/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tzM3SDrueH0  E: I guess it looks like there was some liquid on the road. So basically this could have happened to anyone? epswing fucked around with this message at 17:16 on Apr 16, 2013 |
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Apr 16, 2013 17:08
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I bet that was due to spilled diesel or some other type of oil or grease on the road. Around here, tractors sometimes like to dump hydraulic fluid. An acquaintance of mine lowsided his BMW in a corner because of that, he said it was absolutely instant, nothing he could do and it was completely invisible on the road. Have fun riding! 
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Apr 16, 2013 17:16
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epalm posted:This vstrom crash is exactly what I'm afraid of. This guy is just cruising along, not doing anything wrong as far as I can see, and the bike just falls over. Bad tires? Something slippery on the road? That was very obvious - did you see the fluid spill starting from way back on the road?
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Apr 16, 2013 17:30
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My bike has developed a definite click noise from somewhere in the front end when going over bumps. I've had something similar twice before - once was it was just my disc lock key bouncing around (but I only convinced myself of this after hours of hysterical work), and the other (first time, hence the hysteria on the second one) was a collapsed wheel bearing. Bike handles fine, no noticeable grinding or suspension weirdness *except* it feels over-damped when hitting a kerb or speed-bump - there's what feels like a milliseconds hesitation before the suspension starts to move, but it's entirely possible that I'm imagining it - the Shiver front end is pretty firm for a naked bike. There's no adjustment of the front forks at all so I've not hosed anything up there. Suspension moves fine under braking and at speed, it's just big bumps at low speed that cause the click. Bike is almost 4 years old, fork oil was replaced at the last service last summer, and while it's pretty low mileage most of those miles are on London's lovely tank test track roads. Supporting the bike off the front wheel shows no free play anywhere in the suspension, wheel, or steering head, and the front wheel spins absolutely fine, and everything's torqued up properly. Testing it with the front wheel up is all I need to do to confirm that there's nothing nasty lurking, isn't it? Someone please talk me down and convince me that I'm imagining something horrible here.
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Apr 16, 2013 17:44
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Are you just bottoming out the front on big bumps? Zip tie, make it make the noise, see how much travel you're using.
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Apr 16, 2013 17:51
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Well this leads me to another question I've had on my mind. I'm very attuned to what's on the road immediately in front of me, just as a reflex due to many years skateboarding, longboarding, and rollerblading on lovely pavement (even the smallest crack can wreck your day with wheels that small). On the other hand, conventional motorcycle riding wisdom (which I fully subscribe to) says I'm supposed to look where I'm going, so in that situation my head would have been cocked almost fully to the right.BlackMK4 posted:That was very obvious - did you see the fluid spill starting from way back on the road? So in that video, yep, I can definitely see the spill before the turn, no problem. But if something is on the road mid-turn, I guess there's pretty much no avoiding it. I find my eyes bouncing from what's in front of my front tire to the end of the turn ahead, is this normal and/or recommended?
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Apr 16, 2013 17:52
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ReformedNiceGuy posted:I'd like to hear from the more experienced guys on this too. I've had the back end get a bit squirmy on me a couple of times and I didn't really feel any difference between solid grip > squirming around. Yeah, the squirmy bit is the tire telling you it's getting ready to let go. When it does it, how it feels, and how much warning its giving you depends on bike's setup, tire, tire pressure, etc. My PR2s get squirmy when I hit the throttle a little too aggressively coming out of a turn or slamming through the gears like a dong on the Ulysses. That kind of feedback is what I'd characterize as good "feel". On the other hand, the Metzeler ME880s on my old Vulcan would grip like crazy and then suddenly light up without much warning. Not great feel, but I had to really push that bike like an idiot to get there. Knobbier tires will give you that "hey take it easy" sort of feedback earlier than the sort of high-mile touring tires I have most experience with. If you hit a patch of something in the road, all bets are off. This is where awareness and not riding faster than you can see comes in. epalm posted:I find my eyes bouncing from what's in front of my front tire to the end of the turn ahead, is this normal and/or recommended? Nothing really wrong with that but I'd bias toward looking further ahead - that way you see whatever sooner and have room to execute if you need to avoid something. My eyes bounce around from deep into the turn to the shoulders closer in, looking for traffic, kids, or critters that might hop into my lane. If you're riding too fast avoid stationary stuff in the road, you're simply riding too fast. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 18:02 on Apr 16, 2013 |
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Apr 16, 2013 17:53
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goddamnedtwisto posted:My bike has developed a definite click noise from somewhere in the front end when going over bumps. I've had something similar twice before - once was it was just my disc lock key bouncing around (but I only convinced myself of this after hours of hysterical work), and the other (first time, hence the hysteria on the second one) was a collapsed wheel bearing. Yeah I'd say test the steering head bearing by raising up the bike and checking if the bars turn smoothly, without being notchy in the center. And of course check for front/back play. At one point my steering head bearings were pretty badly notched in the center but I didn't really feel that whilst riding, new bearings did make it feel way smoother and easier to turn though. While installing those bearings it took me a few attempts to properly tighten them, with the bearings set too loose I heard a clicking sound when stopping at lights but I also definitely felt the frame shift a fraction of an inch.
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Apr 16, 2013 17:53
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When I use my front brake, there's a very, very faint buzzing (or high-frequency clicking) - it almost sounds like an electrical buzzing. I thought it might be the brake light circuit, but it doesn't happen when I use only my rear brake, and it doesn't happen when I hold the front brake while stopped. Only when actually decelerating. So it must be something mechanical, right? Any ideas what this could be? Relatedly, I'm planning to replace my front brake pads soon. Any recommendations, or are they all pretty much the same?
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Apr 16, 2013 18:06
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alnilam posted:When I use my front brake, there's a very, very faint buzzing (or high-frequency clicking) - it almost sounds like an electrical buzzing. I thought it might be the brake light circuit, but it doesn't happen when I use only my rear brake, and it doesn't happen when I hold the front brake while stopped. Only when actually decelerating. So it must be something mechanical, right? The buzzing is normal, it's the vibration of the brake components. As long as it isn't a squeal, it's fine. Surprised me too the first time I heard it, previous bike didn't have it.
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Apr 16, 2013 18:09
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alnilam posted:When I use my front brake, there's a very, very faint buzzing (or high-frequency clicking) - it almost sounds like an electrical buzzing. I thought it might be the brake light circuit, but it doesn't happen when I use only my rear brake, and it doesn't happen when I hold the front brake while stopped. Only when actually decelerating. So it must be something mechanical, right? Normal sound. Are your rotors cross-drilled? For the street I like organic pads. Good, linear feel. I use a set of "Braking" pads that cost like $35 per pair on Amazon when I bought them. In my experience, metallic pads take some warming up to work right and are noisier.
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Apr 16, 2013 18:17
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clutchpuck posted:Normal sound. Are your rotors cross-drilled? Do you know if the Buell 6-piston pads cross reference to a more common bike's brakes?
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Apr 16, 2013 18:25
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Z3n posted:Are you just bottoming out the front on big bumps? Zip tie, make it make the noise, see how much travel you're using. Hmm, maybe. Doesn't feel like it's bottoming out, but if the bump rubbers are particularly forgiving it's a possibility - I'll try that next. High Protein posted:Yeah I'd say test the steering head bearing by raising up the bike and checking if the bars turn smoothly, without being notchy in the center. And of course check for front/back play. At one point my steering head bearings were pretty badly notched in the center but I didn't really feel that whilst riding, new bearings did make it feel way smoother and easier to turn though. While installing those bearings it took me a few attempts to properly tighten them, with the bearings set too loose I heard a clicking sound when stopping at lights but I also definitely felt the frame shift a fraction of an inch. That was my second thought, after the wheel bearing, which is why I jacked up the front - smooth as silk. I might have to find a friendly car park I can drive around on without my helmet (and maybe with the engine cut too) to see if I can isolate it. Look for the death announcement of the guy who got his head caught in the front wheel while freewheeling at 30 mph...
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Apr 16, 2013 18:46
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High Protein posted:The buzzing is normal, it's the vibration of the brake components. As long as it isn't a squeal, it's fine. Surprised me too the first time I heard it, previous bike didn't have it. I was quite pleased the first time I rode a bike with decent brakes and you could hear a faint 'fizzzzzzzzzzz' every time you braked. Bikes with sliding calipers seem to be noisier than those with fixed, but that's my totally baseless personal observation.
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Apr 16, 2013 20:21
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High Protein posted:Do you know if the Buell 6-piston pads cross reference to a more common bike's brakes? Doubt it, they're shaped for the perimeter rotor. Nothing else runs one of those.
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Apr 16, 2013 20:24
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Thanks to all who answered, I feel a lot better now.clutchpuck posted:Are your rotors cross-drilled? I think so? I think they have both slots and holes in them (I can double check this when I get home). clutchpuck posted:For the street I like organic pads. Good, linear feel. I use a set of "Braking" pads that cost like $35 per pair on Amazon when I bought them. In my experience, metallic pads take some warming up to work right and are noisier. So how specific do I have to get to my bike? Are brake pads pretty universal, or do I need to check they'll fit my model?
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Apr 16, 2013 21:57
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You'll need to check for your model specifically.
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Apr 16, 2013 22:19
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