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BlackMK4 posted:That was very obvious - did you see the fluid spill starting from way back on the road?
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Apr 16, 2013 22:51
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Can't find any pads on amazon for my bike, and this one on bikebandit doesn't say at all whether it's NAO, ceramic, metal, or what. I might just get the OEM pads for twice the price, but even those don't give any info about what material they use  Is there any way to tell from the look of it?
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Apr 16, 2013 23:02
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Those should work at least as well as stock. Get those if you don't want to pay extra for dealership parts. Motorcycle Superstore says they have a composite low-metal compound. e: I looked up my order confirmation for my pads and turns out I run the Braking CM55 composite sport pads. I have a single front brake on my bike and it'll stoppie with them so I guess they work. Probably not much different than those BM pads. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Apr 16, 2013 |
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Apr 16, 2013 23:14
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Charging system question ahead: A few months ago I had to replace my R/R. My bike was really working to start and then all of a sudden it just wouldn't turn over. Got power to the lights, display, everything, but I could tell the battery was dead/dying. I bought a new battery thinking that was the cause (has it checked and it was hosed) but the same thing happened within a day. Battery was dead again. Thinking it was the stator, I bought a new one. During the course of the installation, my buddy just happened to check the R/R and saw a nice bubble on the underside of it, which he said meant it had burnt out. I bought a new R/R, and all was good. Now, 2 months later, the same poo poo is happening. I don't physically SEE anything wrong with my R/R this time, but I could be wrong. Is there any way (without an ohmmeter) to see why my charging system keeps loving me? Also, what is the usual life expectency of a R/R, and how would I know if the problem is with that as opposed to a bad battery or stator?
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Apr 17, 2013 14:45
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Go to walmart and spend $30 for a multimeter - asking how to diagnose a charging system without one is like asking how to rebuild a motor without tools.
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Apr 17, 2013 15:00
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This is me diagnosing electricals: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fDOHEWMXXyk
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Apr 17, 2013 15:25
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Ok, I got my hands on my neighbors multimeter... Now, maybe an "Idiots Guide" to using this contraption to diagnose a problem with my charging system?
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Apr 17, 2013 15:34
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Here's a guide to help you find the problem.
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Apr 17, 2013 16:16
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xd posted:Here's a guide to help you find the problem. Awesome this is perfect... Although, in the process of checking stuff, I found this...  This is the wire coming directly from the stator case. I'm thinking that the blue wire in the pic may be the underlying cause of my headache here... I know its not the BEST pic, but its the best angle I could get. It looks like the wire is frayed and not connecting to the housing correctly... Ideas on this? Zipperelli. fucked around with this message at 17:27 on Apr 17, 2013 |
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Apr 17, 2013 17:21
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What model of bike is it? The green wire with the torn up insulation would be my guess, but it depends on what that wire does - if it's a crank position sensor like it is on the triumphs, that could be causing a nostart condition. Basically though, you should report back with the AC stator voltage with the bike on and reved to 5k or so, and the charging voltage. Possible you got a bad R/R that burned out the battery with overcharging, or a lot of other possibilities, but you won't know until you test. Z3n fucked around with this message at 17:38 on Apr 17, 2013 |
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Apr 17, 2013 17:36
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Look in the wore harness fiche and see if there's a diode anywhere in it. My '85 Honda did a similar thing where I replaced the stator and R/R with known good units and it still kept killing batteries. Turns out there was a diode inline with some part of the charge circuit that was located underneath the seat. It tested as bad, replaced it, bam no more dead batteries. Edit: I should add that you should go through the normal steps first, a bike with electrics in that condition may have several issues or bad parts. Test the whole thing thoroughly first, and consider replacing the connectors with more robust ones if they're a common failure point(I.e. melting/smoking under long usage). Kilersquirrel fucked around with this message at 17:46 on Apr 17, 2013 |
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Apr 17, 2013 17:40
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Thanks for the replies regarding my lithium battery question. I ended up ordering a Yuasa. I put the current battery on a trickle charger a night ago and it now reads about 12.6V. I might see if it will turn over for a ride this evening or tomorrow.
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Apr 17, 2013 18:03
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I'm studying for my license test and the MSF coming up in a few weeks. The provincial riders handbook says that when shifting, you pull in the clutch, move the shift peg up/down, release the shift peg, then release the clutch while rolling on the throttle. The MSF handbook says that when shifting, you pull in the clutch, move the shift peg up/down, HOLD the shift peg in the up/down position, then release the clutch while rolling on the throttle. Once the clutch is fully released you can release the shift peg. Apparently the MSF method prevents false neutrals, which method is the recommended way of doing it?
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Apr 17, 2013 18:19
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You just do it. Don't read too much before the classes, you'll just get information overload and confuse yourself. Worry about this kind of stuff when you have a few miles under your belt.
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Apr 17, 2013 18:23
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I highly doubt your test will involve this particular detail. I've never heard of holding the shifter down until after you re-engage the clutch, but it sounds weird to me because especially at low speeds, I let the clutch out pretty slow.
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Apr 17, 2013 18:28
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whiskas posted:The MSF handbook says that when shifting, you pull in the clutch, move the shift peg up/down, HOLD the shift peg in the up/down position, then release the clutch while rolling on the throttle. Once the clutch is fully released you can release the shift peg. I've never heard of anyone teaching shifting that way, and it's not how I was taught in my MSF basic course. That sounds like a crappy work-around for a 40-year-old bike with a gearbox that needs a rebuild. I don't hold the shifter on my bike and I've never had it pop out of gear or get a false neutral. Honestly I don't even really see how holding the shifter would do anything helpful as my gearbox clunks pretty confidently between gears. If anything it seems like it might put extra wear on the shifty bits.
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Apr 17, 2013 18:33
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Same, never heard of shifting that way either even in the MSF. All I can think of on why they would say that is to be sure the newbie rider makes a solid shift and doesn't accidentally find neutral. Perhaps whatever 'safest riding possible' research they do has indicated people make firmer shifts more regularly if they're taught that way vs. just being told to shift with authority. :edit: Agree on the above. For the purposes of any written test or practical purpose I doubt you need to sweat this particular detail.
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Apr 17, 2013 19:11
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That just seems stupid, I don't think gearboxes are designed to work that way. Pull clutch, shift, let out clutch. If you have to do anything other than that your gearbox is worn out, or on the way out. Ever get on someone else's bike and have them tell you, " Oh yeah by the way you need to hold up a little on the shifter before you go from 2nd to 3rd." Or "You need to preload the shifter to get into the next higher gear, otherwise you hit a false neutral." It's one of those problems that you find a solution to so that you can keep riding, without really fixing anything.
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Apr 17, 2013 19:17
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I had to do that on the bike I was on during MSF but it really only applies to going from 1st to 2nd gear because those bikes are so beat up. Most bikes in the class didn't have that problem. I was just lucky.
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Apr 17, 2013 19:33
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The royal Enfield Albion gearboxes are designed to be shifted that way, and the manual says to do that if you keep getting false neutrals. Also, there's nothing wrong with doing it on a normal gearbox design wise, but it shouldn't be necessary. It can prevent false neutrals if you're being a pansy with shifting our of theatres a problem with the springback mechanism or something. Stop hatin
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Apr 17, 2013 19:49
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I'm 99% sure that the official provincial method is just some bureaucratic weenie trying to describe everything in miniscule detail to justify the existence of his job. No one in the world pays that much attention to the order of their clutching and shifting. e: well maybe GP racers do but that's for a completely different reason Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 20:28 on Apr 17, 2013 |
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Apr 17, 2013 20:26
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Well I'm glad that a transmission designed in the 40's says it's OK, but for the vast majority of transmissions, its unnecessary at best, and at worst your loving up the dogs on your gears, and wearing out poo poo prematurely.
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Apr 17, 2013 21:14
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Clutch talk, yay! My bike (1991 CB750) is a bit weird. I started it this morning, and was running it with the choke in a bit, idling at about 2k or so. When I clutched in and shifted into first it made a bit of a grinding noise, like it didn't want to go into gear, but did. Don't get that issue when I shift into first at normal idle, or in the higher gears. Since I'm going on a monster road trip (3000 miles each way) this summer, I want to preemptively fix any issues that might be annoying on the road, like this one. I assume it's just wear, since the bike has 50k miles on it, and this behaviour started at the end of last summers road trip. Any clues on what this is?
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Apr 17, 2013 22:08
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I suspect your clutch cable has too much free-play, just enough so the clutch drags a bit even with the lever in. Check it, adjust it by the book if you need to, I bet it goes away. Also sounds pretty normal for when the gearbox occasionally decides it doesn't want to mesh super-gracefully - this seems to happen to me more on big chunky v-twin cruiser gearboxes; less so on "snick snick" sporty 6-speeds.
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Apr 17, 2013 22:20
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You said this was with the choke in, so you must have just started the bike -- does it still do this when the engine warms up? It does sound like it's dragging a bit, and clutchpuck is probably right that it's the cable, but wet clutches also drag a little more when the oil is cold and gooey and that could theoretically be causing it. I don't think your clutch should ever make what's described as a "grinding" noise, though.
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Apr 18, 2013 00:29
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Sagebrush posted:You said this was with the choke in, so you must have just started the bike -- does it still do this when the engine warms up? It does sound like it's dragging a bit, and clutchpuck is probably right that it's the cable, but wet clutches also drag a little more when the oil is cold and gooey and that could theoretically be causing it. Really more of a skipping noise, but fast. But ya, it was cold. Not sure if it's an issue when it's warmed up, I'll have to see. Backov fucked around with this message at 00:33 on Apr 18, 2013 |
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Apr 18, 2013 00:30
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It's worth making sure the clutch cable is lubed and the clutch lever pivot is lubed too; I had a bike where the brakes felt monstrously notchy and bad and it was just the pivot being completely dry and 'catching' the lever.
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Apr 18, 2013 00:32
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Backov posted:Really more of a skipping noise, but fast. But ya, it was cold. Not sure if it's an issue when it's warmed up, I'll have to see. Definitely sounds like a fairly-normal result of too-loose clutch cable, cold engine, and/or wimp-shifting down into 1.
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Apr 18, 2013 00:44
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Newbiequestion: My 2001 Bandit 600 has been parked for the winter (September to April) and all I did was take out the battery and top up the tank. When I went to start it today, it took a while (maybe 4 x 6 seconds on the starter) but then it caught and went into a nice idle. However, when I tried to touch the throttle, it stopped. I had it idling for a few minutes then tried to carefully use the throttle more and more (over 2k rpms - stop, over 3k rpms - stop). When I managed to rev it up to 6k rpms without stopping, I took it for a ride and it seemed fine (never really took it over 6k). Is this normal after a long winter, and can anyone explain what is happening? I'm assuming something with the gas flow but I'm pretty blank when it comes to engines. Anything I can do to make it easier to start after storage or is this not bad? (I kinda cringe when I have to hold the starter in for more than a second or two). Oh and another question, can I have the bike on a center stand when checking oil, or will that tip it either to the front or back and give a wrong read? For further proof of how blank I am, I panicked when checking the oil and the window was all empty.. but then I found out I'm supposed to check it when the engine is not running.
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Apr 18, 2013 09:53
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Centre stand will throw the reading out, just hold the bike up with one hand and have a look. Get a friend to hold the bike if you're not comfortable with 1 handing it.
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Apr 18, 2013 10:09
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My 1996 Bandit 600 takes some coaxing to start after winter storage too, and I store it in a heated garage. There are a couple of things that contribute to this. First off, Bandits are really really cold-blooded and need choke to start even on warm days. Secondly, the gasoline in the float bowls evaporates when the bike hasn't been started in a while. The petcock is vacuum-operated, so with dry bowls, you need to crank the engine for a while to create vacuum to allow fuel to flow. Turn the petcock to prime for 5-10 seconds before starting to get around this. You should be able to hear the gas gurgling and filling the bowls. It'll be much easier to start this way. Don't worry about running the starter for more than a couple of seconds, you'll need to run it for like a minute before it starts to overheat. If your bike hasn't started by then, you have more serious problems. Thirdly, gas doesn't evaporate completely, it leaves behind a residue that can clog various small passages in the carbs. On bikes that have been stored for a really long time, this turns into hard varnish that needs to be cleaned out manually. For a bike that's been stored over the winter, the normal flow of gas should be enough to dissolve the residue. This doesn't happen instantly and until everything clears up, your bike will probably be a bit grumpy and refuse to rev properly. To help lessen the starting issues after winter storage, you can keep it in a heated garage like I do and you can put a product like Sta-Bil in the full tank of gas you put in the bike for the winter. It needs to be mixed in well and reach the carbs for best results. Regarding the oil level, I always check mine with both wheels on the ground and the bike held level, but I think there's only a 2-3mm difference in the oil window if you do it on the center stand instead.
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Apr 18, 2013 10:17
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If your bike is like mine, you can easily tip it between front and rear wheel when it's on the center stand. Notice the difference in the oil level, on mine it goes from lower quarter to upper quarter of the glass when the oil level is right. The most accurate reading is just to balance the bike on the stand with both wheels off (I lift the front with my foot) but having done it a few times you will learn what is right even when it's leaned forward/backward. But yes, not with the engine running...then the oil is not in the sump, filling up your glass, it' splashing around the cylinders, lubing your beloved machinery!
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Apr 18, 2013 10:28
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Looking to get some kind of roadside assistance subscription that will cover my car, my SO's car, and my motorcycle for the normal stuff, breakdown, tire chg, tow, etc. Obviously looking for the best cost/benefit ratio. Anyone have any suggestions? I've heard AMA isn't too bad... SB35 fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Apr 18, 2013 |
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Apr 18, 2013 19:43
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For what its worth I know with AAA you need the more-expensive "RV" or whatever service, otherwise you might have trouble getting a bike towed. I have roadside on my motorcycle insurance policy. Costs like $15 a year. Saved me more than that when I broke down in buttfuck Idaho a couple years ago.
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Apr 18, 2013 19:55
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clutchpuck posted:For what its worth I know with AAA you need the more-expensive "RV" or whatever service, otherwise you might have trouble getting a bike towed. That's exactly why I'm looking for something other than AAA, because gently caress them for thinking motorcycle = RV.
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Apr 18, 2013 20:07
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Is there a good way for a passenger to use a point and shoot camera while on the back of a bike? I've got a decent little Nikon and my wife wants to use it on the trip. It's got the standard little wrist dongle, but I'd be fairly bummed if it ended up bouncing down the highway at 60mph.
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Apr 18, 2013 20:45
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Alright, what should I be asking for this thing? It's a 2006 with 9900mi, brand new Pilot Road 2s, and has a little bit of damage from a drop by the previous owner.         
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Apr 18, 2013 21:15
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It's worthless. Put a gsxr front end on it and then MAYBE I'll scrap it for you. In all seriousness the yellow/black combo is probably my favorite on them. I'd put it up for maybe 4000 and drop it down when they haggle. I'd say 3500 is a good enough deal imo. Who was it on the forums that has the yellow/black SV with the GSXR swap? That thing is drat sexy. Actually, I didn't see all the damage at first glance. With that rash on the frame it's probably going to drop in price significantly. I know when I shop for bikes if I see stuff like that I lose interest right away. Insurance companies are far too judgmental about scratches like that and it freaks out buyers. If you had full coverage and insurance saw that area near the rearsets I don't think they'd mind totaling it out even if it's just cosmetic really.. Baller Witness Bro fucked around with this message at 21:30 on Apr 18, 2013 |
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Apr 18, 2013 21:27
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If it were me selling it I'd list at $3500 with the damage, and a minimum sell price of $2800.Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Is there a good way for a passenger to use a point and shoot camera while on the back of a bike? I've got a decent little Nikon and my wife wants to use it on the trip. It's got the standard little wrist dongle, but I'd be fairly bummed if it ended up bouncing down the highway at 60mph. The wrist strap and some caution will work fine for pillion photos.
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Apr 18, 2013 21:34
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If it is just cosmetic, though, what's the problem? Will the bike be uninsurable with the scratches or something? I know that getting some nicks on the frame is a good way to total the bike after a crash, but I've never heard of insurance companies checking for that stuff before they write you a policy. My bike has cosmetic damage from where the PO layer dan'd in 1980, but it's never come up across multiple insurance companies, DMVs in two different countries, two safety inspections and a pair of border crossings. Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Is there a good way for a passenger to use a point and shoot camera while on the back of a bike? I've got a decent little Nikon and my wife wants to use it on the trip. It's got the standard little wrist dongle, but I'd be fairly bummed if it ended up bouncing down the highway at 60mph. Get a piece of rope, tie it to the camera, tie it around your wrist. I think you have to accept some risk of damage to anything you decide to hold in your hands while cruising down the highway at 60 miles an hour in an open vehicle.
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Apr 18, 2013 21:40
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