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I regularly got 27-28 mpg before I bad touched my car... and I get like 26 now.
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# ? Apr 16, 2013 05:17 |
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# ? May 30, 2024 06:05 |
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I get about 26-27 no matter what. City? 26-27. Highway? 26-27 I have a 2003 and figure I could get more if I didn't shift at 4500 in the city and cruise at 80 on the interstate. It's very possible you could get more/less based on your rear and ratios, gearbox, driving style, model year, etc. I wouldn't worry too much. That said; when is the recommended fuel filter replacement interval? It's something I didn't think much about until recently but at 118K it couldn't hurt...
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# ? Apr 16, 2013 05:23 |
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I've only refueled twice so far, but the first one was 25 with lots of spirited driving/top down on the freeway. I tried to tone it down with the second tank with the top up and windows up as much as possible, roughly 75% highway. Got 28. I'm pretty content with this.
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# ? Apr 16, 2013 09:10 |
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When I had my '91 I would always get 30-32mpg, but it was mostly country driving, and if it was on the highway it was sub 70mph. The 1.6l might help a little in that respect.
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# ? Apr 16, 2013 13:06 |
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What's the best place to get a replacement radiator for an NA 1.8L? Just whatever is cheap on rockauto or is there a more application-specific one somewhere without superfluous integrated ATF coolers and whatnot?
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# ? Apr 16, 2013 13:38 |
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I have one for sale.
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# ? Apr 16, 2013 14:17 |
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dreesemonkey posted:When I had my '91 I would always get 30-32mpg, but it was mostly country driving, and if it was on the highway it was sub 70mph. The 1.6l might help a little in that respect. I got 34mpg the other day on highway driving in the range of 70-90 top down. 2005
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# ? Apr 16, 2013 16:48 |
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phootnote posted:I got 34mpg the other day on highway driving in the range of 70-90 top down. 2005 The fuuuuck. Barely anyone here has touched even 30 MPG and here you are with 34. I am jelly :I
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# ? Apr 16, 2013 23:19 |
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Viper915 posted:What's the best place to get a replacement radiator for an NA 1.8L? Just whatever is cheap on rockauto or is there a more application-specific one somewhere without superfluous integrated ATF coolers and whatnot? I MattD1zzl3 fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Apr 17, 2013 |
# ? Apr 17, 2013 02:18 |
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So the MSM has been getting a rattle when cold and I swear it sounded like a pulley going out, but I actually looked at it today and it's definitely valve noise. So I'm guessing I get to learn how to do an adjustment. What all do I need to do one?
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# ? Apr 17, 2013 02:23 |
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AF posted:The fuuuuck. Barely anyone here has touched even 30 MPG and here you are with 34. I am jelly :I It's probably "real gas" (read: not E10). I got 33mpg with a tank of 93 0% ethanol averaging 80mph on the way back from Deal's Gap.
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# ? Apr 17, 2013 02:41 |
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I got 33 MPG mostly highway on E10 gas in the summer before, but it was with 8 year old rock hard all season tires. I switched to star specs and promptly got 24-26 MPG highway, no other changes to the car.
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# ? Apr 17, 2013 03:03 |
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revmoo posted:So the MSM has been getting a rattle when cold and I swear it sounded like a pulley going out, but I actually looked at it today and it's definitely valve noise. So I'm guessing I get to learn how to do an adjustment. What all do I need to do one? Unobtainable valve shims, some feelers, basic tools to get the valve cover off. If you have to swap shims you'll need a micrometer to measure them all. It's pretty easy but the shims are seriously had to find and stupid expensive. e: Actually that may have changed. http://parts.arlingtonmazda.com/search.php?search_query=shim&x=0&y=0 FatCow fucked around with this message at 04:00 on Apr 17, 2013 |
# ? Apr 17, 2013 03:58 |
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Phone posted:It's probably "real gas" (read: not E10). I got 33mpg with a tank of 93 0% ethanol averaging 80mph on the way back from Deal's Gap. I used the 93 fuel. If I use the regular unlead, I will see a difference in mpg. I did not know it made a difference on mpg. I am use to driving on the cheapest I could find.
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# ? Apr 17, 2013 04:41 |
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Phone posted:It's probably "real gas" (read: not E10). I got 33mpg with a tank of 93 0% ethanol averaging 80mph on the way back from Deal's Gap. When I drove down to the gap in my MS3 i was ecstatic to find E0 gas. Ran SO much better, an immediate improvement in performance and economy. Stupid PA and stupid E10.
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# ? Apr 17, 2013 04:45 |
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The closets non ethanol fuel station here only has 87 octane.
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# ? Apr 17, 2013 04:48 |
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What the hell is E0 and E10 gas?
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# ? Apr 17, 2013 05:21 |
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leica posted:What the hell is E0 and E10 gas? E10 is 10% ethanol and E0 is 0% ethanol aka regular gasoline and I've never heard anyone call it that until now.
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# ? Apr 17, 2013 05:22 |
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Yeah, a lot of areas with pollution issues mandate all pump gas to have at least some ethanol in it. Non-E10 is really hard to come by in AZ. There's a government push to up this allowance to E15 but a lot of people are concerned about possible damage to pre-ethanol fuel systems.
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# ? Apr 17, 2013 05:24 |
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Ah, gotcha. Has anyone here ever converted to E85? Some dude on the Protege forums converted one of his BP cars and was talking like it was better than sliced bread.
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# ? Apr 17, 2013 05:30 |
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leica posted:Ah, gotcha. Has anyone here ever converted to E85? Some dude on the Protege forums converted one of his BP cars and was talking like it was better than sliced bread. Its about 26% less energy dense than gasoline, but its like 115 octane, so it will not easily knock. I think it also is more endothermic than gasoline.
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# ? Apr 17, 2013 05:39 |
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AF posted:The fuuuuck. Barely anyone here has touched even 30 MPG and here you are with 34. I am jelly :I He's cheating by using an NC
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# ? Apr 17, 2013 10:46 |
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DJ Commie posted:Its about 26% less energy dense than gasoline, but its like 115 octane, so it will not easily knock. I think it also is more endothermic than gasoline. Yeah, it's basically race fuel at regular fuel prices, until you account for the massive fuel economy drop. It is generally much easier to find than > 93 octane gasoline, though. I wouldn't convert unless I had plans for a massive turbo setup.
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# ? Apr 17, 2013 12:00 |
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It costs just as much as regular gas, but you get 2/3 of the fuel economy. BUY CORN TODAY! That said, the turbo E85 kids go to junkyards and buy the fuel sensors off of Tauruses for $10. They also run crazy amounts of advance since E85 is extremely detonation resistant and burns really cool.
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# ? Apr 17, 2013 13:49 |
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mobby_6kl posted:He's cheating by using an NC NC models start in 2006, afaik. And my NC is getting 27 mpg at best, more typically 23. Of course, my driving plays a big role here.
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# ? Apr 17, 2013 14:06 |
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GOD IS BED posted:NC models start in 2006, afaik. I just didn't remember seeing any 2005 NBs, but Wikipedia says that NCs started production in May 2005 for delivery in August as 2006 MY. So looks like you're right, unless phootnote referred to the manufacture date. As for myself, I'm pretty sure I did at least one >30mpg tank before I figured out how deep the gas pedal really goes. And today I had the first instance of the miata wave of the season with some guy in an anniversary NB, who was wearing a beanie in the t-shirt weather. I used to not care about this at all, but now I'm really glad that it loving finally stopped snowing and being generally lovely. This also means that now that the car isn't covered in salts and other grime, it's clear that the paintwork needs some attention. The wheels, especially, could use a respray due to some curb rash and just paint flaking off () in some spots. I'm thinking about trying body color instead of just touching up with the standard silver, so something like this: instead of What do you guys think?
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# ? Apr 17, 2013 19:09 |
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mobby_6kl posted:This also means that now that the car isn't covered in salts and other grime, it's clear that the paintwork needs some attention. The wheels, especially, could use a respray due to some curb rash and just paint flaking off () in some spots. I'm thinking about trying body color instead of just touching up with the standard silver, so something like this: I'm not big on the body color match. More contrast by going darker would look better.
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# ? Apr 17, 2013 19:20 |
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Just started an install of a new Robbins top, someone kill me now please
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# ? Apr 17, 2013 19:48 |
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Oof, have fun with that. Replacement tops are just one of those things that are such a pain that it's worth having a pro do it for $400-500. At least that's the conclusion I came to when I was in that position.
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# ? Apr 17, 2013 19:56 |
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leica posted:Just started an install of a new Robbins top, someone kill me now please Get one of these, reduce swearing by 65%:
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# ? Apr 17, 2013 20:01 |
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I got the frame off the car so I don't need those.... One B pillar down, one to go.....First one took a lot of stretching but this one ain't budging for poo poo loving GODDAMN gently caress
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# ? Apr 17, 2013 20:21 |
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I am debating installing a new soft top over the winter as a project. Take current top off car, put hard top back on, continue to drive car through winter, take as long as I need to replace the drat top. Is this a good idea of a horrible idea?
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# ? Apr 17, 2013 20:34 |
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After a little help from a few cocksuckers and motherfuckers I got the other B pillar on, now for the retention cables and front bow which should be easier I hope. Then I get to put it on the car and try to get the rain rail in correctly YAY. I might add the ONLY reason I'm doing this myself is because I'm broke.
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# ? Apr 17, 2013 21:04 |
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Sadi posted:So Im pretty convinced there is an issue with my car as far as gas milage is concerned. I did about 1300 miles this weekend. All highway, mostly 70-75. One tank was only 70-55. I got 23-24 mpg. I think I am going to do plugs, wires, and fuel filter. Oil and air filter are fresh. Any other things to look at? Its a 95 with 60k on it.
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# ? Apr 18, 2013 00:50 |
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dpidz0r posted:My 2001 with 80k miles tends to get between 25 and 30. Top down almost always, mostly freeway 65-70 mph, and shifting at ~4000 RPM. The fuel gauge also likes to go from pegged way past the full mark @ 0 miles to just under the full mark @ 150 miles to halfway mark @ 250 miles, then buries itself in the red around 290 miles. Because of that I basically just assume 25mpg x 13 gallon tank --> refuel before 325 miles and ignore the fuel gauge. My fuel gauge is decidedly non linear but more in a normal car non linear way. drat son. Wasn't it the '99 that first had the low fuel light? I've gone ~50 miles with the light on so I figure it's a pretty conservative warning.
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# ? Apr 18, 2013 02:50 |
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Previa_fun posted:My fuel gauge is decidedly non linear but more in a normal car non linear way. drat son. Wasn't it the '99 that first had the low fuel light? I've gone ~50 miles with the light on so I figure it's a pretty conservative warning. My lancer gave me 3gals at the low fuel light, so I estimated I had about 75miles before I go empty at a rate of 25mpg. On another topic, what is everyone running suspension wise for DD?
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# ? Apr 18, 2013 03:38 |
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# ? Apr 18, 2013 04:18 |
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GOD IS BED posted:NC models start in 2006, afaik. NC models did actually start in 2005 (didn't know of the top of my head, had to Wikifu it - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mazda_MX-5#Third_generation_.28NC.29) I run premium fuel and do mostly highway miles and I see about 28-29 on average. Got a freak 31mpg on one tank and it blew my mind, then again as I'm getting more and more comfortable with the limits of the car I am flogging it harder so my last couple tanks have been a bit lower, 27ish on average now. I did run a tank of regular for kicks and got like 25-26mpg with 80/20 hwy/city Having Yokohama S.drives mounted probably doesn't help my mileage figures at all either, thinking about switching to Continental DWS when these wear out since I live in the Seattle area and am thinking it'd be wise to invest in a good all season tire for DD duties. Sweet!
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# ? Apr 18, 2013 04:40 |
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I'm on a road trip and my horn stopped working. I don't know of a car where you want a horn more... It's either "DON'T CHANGE LANES INTO ME" or "I'VE ONLY GOT 1.8 LITERS TO GET BACK UP TO SPEED ON THIS MOUNTAIN ROAD". I had someone at the gas station push the button for me on the wheel while I metered the horn. There is no voltage to the horn. I hear a clicking coming from where the relay is. Which should I troubleshoot as I bumble along the road? Wiring or relay?
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# ? Apr 18, 2013 07:29 |
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# ? May 30, 2024 06:05 |
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FortifiedTumor posted:I'm on a road trip and my horn stopped working. I don't know of a car where you want a horn more... It's either "DON'T CHANGE LANES INTO ME" or "I'VE ONLY GOT 1.8 LITERS TO GET BACK UP TO SPEED ON THIS MOUNTAIN ROAD". If the relay's clicking the entire steering wheel portion of the circuit up to the relay is good. Check for voltage at the horn (or closest connector) while someone pushes it again. If there's nothing, check for continuity up to the relay. If that's good, it's probably the relay. Also check for a bad ground from the horn, but that usually doesn't just suddenly die altogether without some warning.
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# ? Apr 18, 2013 07:34 |