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I didn't make this, it was done by a member of another forum I visit. The entire thing is a woodcarving, even the box. It was just painted after.
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Apr 13, 2013 23:04
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I think I've seen his stuff before and it is amazing. Do you have a link to his gallery?
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Apr 14, 2013 00:31
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So tablesaw talk... had to use one of those portable ryobi tablesaws the other day to make some cabinet hangers "in a pinch". Holy gently caress. Death machine. Used it with the stock metal stand (bolted with toggle bolts... in a pinch). I literally jumped back just from the noise of the thing starting and thought I'd lost it from the start. Each cut tracked away about an 1/8" down the length, but across 40" I was like gently caress it man good enough. Work fine, not doing the install, overall success  
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Apr 14, 2013 05:02
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pageerror404 posted:I didn't make this, it was done by a member of another forum I visit. Holy poo poo. Do you have a link to more pictures?
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Apr 14, 2013 05:38
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mds2 posted:Holy poo poo. Do you have a link to more pictures? Reverse image search got me to this. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?161218-quot-old-money-quot&s=c4431e96793eb370b4ac828bbb4543da My mind is pretty well blown.
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Apr 14, 2013 05:42
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That wasn't even the finished picture. Here is it 100% done.
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Apr 14, 2013 07:04
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Blistex posted:What's he asking? Lowest he'll go is $200. Cheapest one I've seen so far that is cast iron though. I'll give it a few days and see if he'll come down a bit.
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Apr 14, 2013 17:05
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Could you post some of the specs? Motor HP, blade size, table dimensions, etc. It looks like a good unit, and one that you could turn into a great unit after a few additions. Is he far from where you live? If not, you could show up, have him start it up and cut a piece of wood and see what you think. Give all the adjustments a go, and then throw $150 on the table. It's sort of a dick move (depending on how smoothly you do it), but I find that when someone sees the cash right in front of them, 9 times out of 10 they'll take a hit to get it out of there. Hell, if the unit impresses you, I'd say that $200 would be worth it. I see a lot of contractor saws (the light bent metal ones) go for nearly that much.
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Apr 14, 2013 18:12
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bimmian posted:Lowest he'll go is $200. Cheapest one I've seen so far that is cast iron though. I'll give it a few days and see if he'll come down a bit. I think $200 is a bit high for a no name brand. What about any of these? http://toledo.craigslist.org/tls/3690944430.html http://toledo.craigslist.org/tls/3723070904.html Here's one that's probably worth $200 depending on condition; these were excellent saws. http://toledo.craigslist.org/tls/3728782106.html
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Apr 14, 2013 19:18
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wormil posted:I think $200 is a bit high for a no name brand. Guess I shouldn't have filter by pictures only! Going to contact them to get some pics.
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Apr 15, 2013 14:23
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Here's record bin I've been working on. Built out of 1 sheet of maple veneered plywood. I did all the cuts with a skillsaw and straight edge. I countersunk all the screws and plugged the holes with walnut plugs I made on my new drillpress. Here's an update on this one, put the second coat of oil on it tonight. Still need to build a drawer, but need to wait for the sliders first.   Close up of my second inlay, I did a small shape on the back. I made it from walnut burl veneer, birds-eye maple and purpleheart.
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Apr 16, 2013 00:39
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Here's an update on this one, put the second coat of oil on it tonight. Still need to build a drawer, but need to wait for the sliders first. Looks great! I've seen that record stand plan before and have been thinking about building it... not sure if my record collection is large enough to warrant it quite yet but nice to see how well it can turn out with a little loving finish work.
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Apr 16, 2013 00:56
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Here's an update on this one, put the second coat of oil on it tonight. Still need to build a drawer, but need to wait for the sliders first. How was the inlay? (difficult, not so difficult?) I have a small project that I'd like to try it on but I'm afraid my idea might be too complicated for a first time although it would probably be easy for an experienced person.
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Apr 16, 2013 03:25
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What was everyone's first woodworking project that they were really proud of? I'm trying to get (more) into woodworking, since I've done a few little things here and there but don't really have the skills I'd like to have, and I'd like to get some ideas for stuff I can do to learn the ropes. I have a great lumber store down the road that sells a huge variety of hardwoods, so I'd like to make use of it!
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Apr 16, 2013 14:13
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QPZIL posted:What was everyone's first woodworking project that they were really proud of? I'm trying to get (more) into woodworking, since I've done a few little things here and there but don't really have the skills I'd like to have, and I'd like to get some ideas for stuff I can do to learn the ropes. Have you made an end grain cutting board yet? I think it is one of the best beginner projects, it really shows you if you can make something square and flat.
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Apr 16, 2013 14:17
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mds2 posted:Have you made an end grain cutting board yet? I think it is one of the best beginner projects, it really shows you if you can make something square and flat. That actually looks perfect. I was going to do either a cutting board or a plank-style votive candle holder, but both of those were basically "cut piece of wood, sand, finish." A little... too easy. But the end-grain design looks awesome.
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Apr 16, 2013 14:26
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I was cleaning out my moms basement and found this at the bottom of a pile of junk: #3 Good timing considering I've been keeping an eye out for a hand plane. Quite surprised it isn't in worse shape considering it's been sitting in a damp basement for at least 12 years, everything rusts down there. Plenty of guides out there on refinishing or restoring these, shouldn't be too bad considering the shape of some of the other examples people have posted previously.  
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Apr 16, 2013 16:55
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That is in really really good shape. To make it a user all you really need to do is 1. sharpen the blade and 2. flatten the sole. I draw lines on the bottom of mine with a sharpie, then run them back and forth over 150 grit sandpaper till the lines are gone.
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Apr 16, 2013 17:03
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Good idea with the sharpie, I'll have to do that. I don't currently have anything for sharpening tools, though I've been looking for options for my chisels (and now hand plane) and also forster bits. Any recommendations for either?
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Apr 16, 2013 17:18
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bimmian posted:Good idea with the sharpie, I'll have to do that. I just grabbed a set of Norton water stones and WOW. I didnt know what sharp was until I tried them out. I can now shave with all my chisels and planes, for real. A cheaper way to get started is the "scary sharp" method in which you use sandpaper. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scary_sharp Do get a good honing guide though. It can make quite a bit of difference. I picked up this one the other day, and am pretty happy with it. It doesnt hold chisels the greatest but it works. http://www.amazon.com/Robert-Larson-800-1800-Honing-Guide/dp/B000CFNCKS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1366134457&sr=8-1&keywords=honing+guide
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Apr 16, 2013 18:48
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Seeing as how I can't afford a power planer/jointer, I'm in the market for a hand planer so that I can get started on my cutting board/whatever projects. Is there any specific brand I should look out for? I'm looking to get a jack plane as an all-purpose guy, but what else should I know?
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Apr 16, 2013 19:03
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QPZIL posted:What was everyone's first woodworking project that they were really proud of? I'm trying to get (more) into woodworking, since I've done a few little things here and there but don't really have the skills I'd like to have, and I'd like to get some ideas for stuff I can do to learn the ropes. I made a bunch of those free standing wine bottle holders out of exotic hardwoods and gave them away as gifts one Christmas season. It is a good project just to see peoples WTF faces when you show them how it works.
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Apr 16, 2013 19:33
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QPZIL posted:Seeing as how I can't afford a power planer/jointer, I'm in the market for a hand planer so that I can get started on my cutting board/whatever projects. Is there any specific brand I should look out for? I'm looking to get a jack plane as an all-purpose guy, but what else should I know? All of my metal planes I have gotten second hand, either at auctions or thrift stores. I look for ones with little rust, handles that arent broken, all parts are there, and a blade that doesnt look like it has been terribly abused. Now that I have a grinder the blade isnt that big of a concern. I have a stanley #4 which I use tons, a pretty decent stanley block plane with an adjustable mouth, and I just recently bought an old craftsman #6. I paid $9 for each one.
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Apr 16, 2013 20:17
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Also useful: The 10-cent sharpening system.
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Apr 17, 2013 00:35
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QPZIL posted:I'm looking to get a jack plane as an all-purpose guy, but what else should I know? The most common is: http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan1.htm#num5 The Stanley #5. Supposedly the pre-WWII planes are better and it's probably true as manufacturing standards declined after that. I have a pre-WWII jointer plane and the blade adjustment is much smoother than my 90's British made Stanley although mechanically they are nearly identical. There are other good brands beside Stanley but I'm not familiar with most of them (I'm not very familiar with Stanleys for that matter). Some to maybe look for would be Sargent, Union, Craftsman, and Record. The tricky thing is some companies made handyman quality tools, some made professional quality tools, and some made both. If you know what you're buying, you can get a steal; if not you can get fleeced. I think that is why most people just stick with Stanley.
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Apr 17, 2013 03:20
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Ahh plane talk, my favorite. That #3 you found in the basement is in absolutely phenomenal condition. Basically as good as you can hope for. Just wash it, wipe the metal parts with mineral oil, sharpen it, and lap the sole (ugh) and its ready for another 60 years. Additionally if you really don't like the patina, pick up a $40 double buffer from harbor freight and then go to Home Depot or lowes and buy a brass wire brush wheel for like $8. That thing will clean off all the rust easily and it won't harm the metal underneath at all. This is a recent discovery of mine, As far as my first project, I guess it would have been a crappy workbench or a picket fence. The first intricate thing was a saw handle I carved.
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Apr 17, 2013 15:56
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QPZIL posted:Seeing as how I can't afford a power planer/jointer, I'm in the market for a hand planer so that I can get started on my cutting board/whatever projects. Is there any specific brand I should look out for? I'm looking to get a jack plane as an all-purpose guy, but what else should I know? I also think the pre WWII planes are the best, they just seem to work better and have better mechanisms, unless you're ready to start buying some nice Lie-Nielsen stuff. If I were you, I'd set up that #3 as a smoothing plane, then look for a #5 and a #7. Set the #5 up with a cambered blade a la Christopher Schwarz's jack plane and the #7 as a jointer. With those and a small block plane you'll be set. Until you realize that you need a router plane, a rabbet plane, a few shoulder planes, a moving fillister would be cool. Oh look at this plow plane, I need that. A whole set of moulding planes, why not? Oh god it never stops...
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Apr 17, 2013 17:05
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wormil posted:How was the inlay? (difficult, not so difficult?) I have a small project that I'd like to try it on but I'm afraid my idea might be too complicated for a first time although it would probably be easy for an experienced person. The inlay wasn't very difficult, much easier than I expected. I cut the shapes first then traced them with an exacto knife, then i used a router make the hole. The hardest part was that the walnut veneer I used wasn't exactly the flattest and i didn't mark the orientation when I traced it. I tried to do a tiny bit of widening with a chisel which left a small amount of chipping unfortunately. The maple and purpleheart went in alot easier and cleaner.
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Apr 17, 2013 21:10
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Speaking more of planes, I did some sole flattening yesterday. I used 80 grit glued to scrap granite countertop then later to my TS top. First on a crappy Buck Bros block plane, maybe it'll be less crappy now. It's nice and flat except for a tiny hollow halfway between the blade and heel, shouldn't hurt anything.  Then revisited my British Stanley which I flattened around 15 years ago but it needed flattening again or maybe I did a poor job the first time. It still has 2 hollows, one ahead and one aft of the blade. I'll keep working on it.  Last I tried to flatten my transitional jointer but failed. The granite block I used is only 16" long but the jointer is 24" long and it wasn't working out. I hated to do it but glued sandpaper right to my tablesaw. After granite.  After using tablesaw top. I ended up using another plane to speed things up. Still some work to go. 
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Apr 18, 2013 18:57
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wormil posted:Speaking more of planes, I did some sole flattening yesterday. I used 80 grit glued to scrap granite countertop then later to my TS top. Quite a coincidence. If I see that correctly, it looks like the stanley transitional with the black hardware, in which case I have that same plane and also flattened it over the weekend. I did it with sandpaper, table saw top and spray adhesive and then ran my smoothing plane over it at the end. Seems to be pretty flat. How do you like yours? I have an old Bailey #7 that I seem to gravitate more towards but for really long edges I'll use the transitional.
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Apr 19, 2013 17:09
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Tempus Fugit posted:Quite a coincidence. If I see that correctly, it looks like the stanley transitional with the black hardware, in which case I have that same plane and also flattened it over the weekend. I did it with sandpaper, table saw top and spray adhesive and then ran my smoothing plane over it at the end. Seems to be pretty flat. How do you like yours? I have an old Bailey #7 that I seem to gravitate more towards but for really long edges I'll use the transitional. It's a Siegley transitional but basically identical to a Stanley #31. I haven't used it yet. Bought it months back for $20 off Craigslist and am just getting around to flattening it. It was really filthy with some rust. I haven't even sharpened the blade yet. The Siegley has a lot of backlash, like all my planes, but adjusts easily compared to my British Stanley #4. The back is getting close to flat but the front corner isn't even touching sandpaper yet. I posted the Siegley in the restoration thread here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3461244&pagenumber=3#post410833998  The plane swap with mds2 has me thinking I should just make a bunch of wood planes as my smoother and block plane are not the best.
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Apr 19, 2013 17:38
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Speaking of, I started your plane yesterday. I'd like to get a better iron for it, but what I have will work.
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Apr 19, 2013 19:46
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Guitarchitect posted:Also useful: The 10-cent sharpening system. I built this tonight and tried sharpening one of my chisels. Worked great, got it way sharper than I could do on the stone. My new bent gouge came in the mail yesterday so I finally got to work on my gun stock again. Here's my progress so far. 
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Apr 20, 2013 02:08
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Is that a Cooey .22?
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Apr 20, 2013 02:26
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mds2 posted:Speaking of, I started your plane yesterday. I'd like to get a better iron for it, but what I have will work. I started one then realized my planes needed tuning up before I could build a plane. What are you using for irons? I was thinking vintage iron but I definitely need to get one before glue up. Speaking of irons... check out these irons from Nice Ash Planes. A freaking 1/4" thick. http://shop.niceashplanes.com/Plane-Iron-pi15.htm wormil fucked around with this message at 05:40 on Apr 20, 2013 |
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Apr 20, 2013 02:26
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Blistex posted:Is that a Cooey .22? It sure is!
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Apr 20, 2013 02:43
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wormil posted:I started one then realized my planes needed tuning up before I could build a plane. What are you using for irons? I was thinking vintage iron but I definitely need to get one before glue up. I bought a bunch of Great Neck brand irons on Amazon a while back. Not the greatest but they were on sale for $2 each. I use them in two of my planes and I was completely surprised at how well the cut and hold an edge. The only problem is I cut them all to be pretty short to use in this style plane:  I was wanting to build a bigger plane, but it will still work. I might look around for an old one too. A while back I got a nice IBC blade from woodcraft for $10. I use it in my jack plane. First glue up is done. I would be able to finish it today but looks like we a "running errands" instead.
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Apr 20, 2013 15:30
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I'm going to build a new cabinet/stand for my table saw now that I really know where it's going to go and I've got 240V out there and the saw's rewired and ready to go and I'm all jazzed up to make things happen. Any advice or recommendations before I just start building? So far, I don't have much planned except some blade/tool storage under the saw, and a dust collection port I can hook my collector up to. Also considering doing the big kick-plate off switch thing since I have a switch that would work great with one.
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Apr 20, 2013 17:46
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absolutely yes on the switch. the best thing that I did on my saw stand was adding a paddle switch right at a few inches above knee height (located where my left leg is during a normal cut). It's perfect for 90% of cuts, and for the other ones where I stand further to the side, I can hit it with my right knee. It's really great to have for those cuts where you want to shut off the blade but not change your body position
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Apr 20, 2013 18:48
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mds2 posted:First glue up is done. I would be able to finish it today but looks like we a "running errands" instead. Don't feel hurried, I'm not an old hand at plane making like you and may have to make a couple before getting one good enough to send. Bad Munki posted:I'm going to build a new cabinet/stand for my table saw now that I really know where it's going to go and I've got 240V out there and the saw's rewired and ready to go and I'm all jazzed up to make things happen. Jigs & dust collection would be my priority. I hang blades on dowels on the wall but at the saw would be just as handy. What saw do you have again?
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Apr 20, 2013 18:49
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