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High Protein posted:Well you shouldn't change the 2nd number, but the first you can get away with. So 20w50 should be fine; my bike uses full synth 20w50 for the engine and Harley brand hydraulic fluid for the primary (though some people use 'normal' oil for that). Does Harley sell an additive to mix with the normal oil?
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Apr 25, 2013 23:23
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They probably do but you don't need it unless you're compelled to waste money. Last time I went to the H-D dealer with my Ulysses buddy, he was all excited about the new H-D 3-hole oil... which I don't think is any different than other engine/gearbox/primary oils like the Castrol Synthetic 20w50 I use in my swingarm. I still use the Formula+ mineral-based oil in the primary; no cost difference between that and the H-D 3-hole stuff.
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Apr 25, 2013 23:32
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I use the dino stuff that comes in a can that says HONDA on it cause it's only $27 a gallon and I figure it is impossible to go wrong putting HONDA oil in a HONDA motorcycle.
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Apr 25, 2013 23:32
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I agree. I got a gallon of suzuki oil for $24 at the dealer. It's cheap and gives me 2 oil changes. I've used Rotella on my previous bike, but I really don't want to risk my clutch with some car specific stuff until the warranty's up.
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Apr 25, 2013 23:39
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Rotella T5 15w-40 is only $13.50/gallon and both my bike and car take it without issues. Plebs. 
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Apr 26, 2013 00:35
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I just use 15-40 or 20-50 Rotella for diesel...?
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Apr 26, 2013 02:44
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Yamaha supremacy My bike only requires standard API SE/SF/SG or better (according to the owner's manual - there's nary a mention of JASO anywhere in it). I can just buy a case of SAE 10W30 whenever it's on sale at the Napa across the street from me.
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Apr 26, 2013 03:51
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Rotella 15w-40 dinosaur oil in my bike. Like $12/gal at Wally world, combined with a pureone PL14612 oil filter I got on sale at Amazon and oil change is complete.
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Apr 26, 2013 04:07
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They moved the motorcycle oil section at Wal-Mart and I got tired of looking for it so I tried out the Rotella last oil change. My filter is the same as a car one so I didn't have to look for that either+pay motorcycle premium. I'm tired of my C50 cruiser I bought in the fall, the roads here are boring - but the dirt roads out in the country are less boring. All there are around here are KLRs and V-stroms. I want another BMW but don't think I can afford it and don't want to drive three hours for it.  But this is awesome looking. unbuttonedclone fucked around with this message at 04:22 on Apr 26, 2013 |
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Apr 26, 2013 04:18
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Nerobro posted:It's a honda, I refuse to work on those. And that someone's tried to modify the fuel system on. He can rot in hell. As before, if I pull it wide open past 1/2, it accelerates no problem. Sounds like the carbs after all. Something with the transition between idle and primary jets. Having never played with rejetting before, I'd have no idea what to do. I do know that one of the jets ("slow speed primary", according to the manual) is pressed in and not removable. I've also got an aftermarket 4-1 exhaust on it, no idea if that's relevant.
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Apr 26, 2013 14:49
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Yes, it's relevant. You're looking at a lean stumble. Bigger pilot jets would probally take care of the problem.
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Apr 26, 2013 14:51
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Welp, I did it. I bought a 1980 CX500. Runs OK, a little hesitation on the throttle I'm guessing is because of nasty old carbs. I talked the seller way down from his price.. Because.. well... it has 80k on the odometer  I've heard the CX is generally a reliable bike, but should I be considering a full rebuild on this bastard?
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Apr 26, 2013 15:10
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No. Do you have any reason to do a rebuild? (the answer is no..) so why are you asking? :-) The since hte thing starts and idles, start throwing in a bottle of fuel system/carb cleaner with each tank of gas. AS long as SOME fuel is passing through a jet, fuel system cleaner can work.
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Apr 26, 2013 15:21
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Nerobro posted:Yes, it's relevant. You're looking at a lean stumble. Bigger pilot jets would probally take care of the problem. I think Honda calls it the "slow speed jet." Is that the same thing as the pilot jet? There's a "pilot screw" but that's just mixture. It's a concern because the stupid thing is pressed into the carb body. There's a good picture of all the jets on page 17 here. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/14793081/Honda_Carb_Manual_revF.pdf If it is the "slow speed" jet that I need to replace, that one is pressed into the carb and not removable. (the 81 and 82 models had removable ones.)
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Apr 26, 2013 15:34
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Where I live, the labor rate is $100 / hour. That alone is an incentive to do my own wrenching; at least up to a certain point. I've been putting off an oil change and valve adjustment for a while now. Time to bite the bullet and do it.
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Apr 26, 2013 15:37
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Mr. Eric Praline posted:I think Honda calls it the "slow speed jet." Is that the same thing as the pilot jet? There's a "pilot screw" but that's just mixture. It's a concern because the stupid thing is pressed into the carb body. Your lean stumble results from "just mixture." heh See if you can richen the low throttle mixture with that pilot screw. That may fix your stumble in the pilot circuit without having to drill out the jet (or whatever you do to adjust a non-removable jet v0v). That rebuild guide has something about bypassing air cut-offs also. If I understand the guide, these were gimmicky bits to lean out the bike for the EPA, so I assume bypassing them richens the mixture. May be worth doing for your carbs?
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Apr 26, 2013 16:30
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Tamir Lenk posted:Your lean stumble results from "just mixture." heh Huh. I was under the impression that those screws only controlled mixture at idle, and did nothing once the throttle opened. Yeah, the cut-offs are the things that dump air into the exhaust to burn off extra fuel. Bypassing them is how you reduce deceleration popping in the exhaust. I kinda want to do that anyway, so if I make no progress with the pilot screws, I'll pull the carbs and do the bypass job.
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Apr 26, 2013 16:36
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Pope Mobile posted:Ooh we haven't had oil chat in a while. What's everyone use? I run Rotella T6 Cheapest poo poo I can find, which is Branford (made by Tarex) 10w40 semi-synth from the local discount car/home/tools/misc store, at ~$25 for 4 liters. API SL/CF and ACEA A3/B3 and whatever. Oil change interval is every 6000km according to Suzuki, and I refuse to put fancy expensive bike-specific oil in there on that sort of schedule. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 16:42 on Apr 26, 2013 |
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Apr 26, 2013 16:37
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KozmoNaut posted:Cheapest poo poo I can find, which is Branford (made by Tarex) 10w40 semi-synth from the local discount car/home/tools/misc store, at ~$25 for 4 liters. API SL/CF and ACEA A3/B3 and whatever. That's ~700 miles longer than most people change their oil at? Hell I change the oil in my DRZ every 1000-1200 miles. I use Rotella T6 in everything though. 25 for a gallon.
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Apr 26, 2013 16:40
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JP Money posted:That's ~700 miles longer than most people change their oil at? Hell I change the oil in my DRZ every 1000-1200 miles. I use Rotella T6 in everything though. 25 for a gallon. How does it make you feel to throw perfectly good oil away? Oil these days are miles ahead of what they were even 10-15 years ago. Besides, as long as you get the correct viscosity, the correct minimum API/ACEA ratings and stay away from energy-conserving oil, you're golden. JASO means much less than people make it out to do, it's just a specifiation like API and ACEA. Zinc is only a wear-reducing factor if you have direct metal-on-metal contact. If you have that, you have way bigger problems than oil can solve. I think bike-specific oil is a scam, or at best misinformed guidance based on hearsay. The thing about oil getting "chopped up" in the gearbox is true, but it happens exactly as fast with bike oil as it does with car oil. But that's just me, I'm kinda pragmatic about these kinds of things.
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Apr 26, 2013 16:48
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T6 isn't bike specific oil. It also starts to get notchy after 1000 miles or so. The bike holds 1.7L so I'm not exactly crying over 12 dollar oil changes. Noone will ever convince me that Rotella isn't good enough. Especially when you change it twice as often. I'll never understand how people WANT their oil to last in the bike / car for 10k miles. I'd much rather remove contaminants from my system than to keep circulating them around in there while I scrounge up another 100 dollars for an oil change.
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Apr 26, 2013 16:54
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No no, Rotella is perfectly fine, and a hell of a lot cheaper than bike-specific oil  The extra zinc in it doesn't hurt at all, but it doesn't really bring any huge benefits and it can be harmful to catalytic converters, that's all. And 1.7L certainly isn't very much, mine takes 3.3L on a change (probably a bit more with a filter change, I think it's 4.5L or something after a complete rebuild), so it makes sense that the intervals are shorter on yours. My main gripe is with expensive bike-specific oil. It's unnecessary and unnecessarily expensive, when there are perfectly good alternatives available for much less. And if buying cheaper oil means that you change the oil a bit more often instead of trying to stretch the intervals, that is probably a good thing, too. I think I'm quoting Eric The Car Guy by saying that how often you change the oil is much more important than which oil you choose. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 17:04 on Apr 26, 2013 |
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Apr 26, 2013 17:01
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Mr. Eric Praline posted:Huh. I was under the impression that those screws only controlled mixture at idle, and did nothing once the throttle opened. Carbs generally operate in 3 circuits (even those mysterious CV carbs). Pilot, Needle and Main - more or less. The pilot manages AFM from idle to about 1/4 throttle, needle jumps in to cover 1/4 to 3/4 throttle, and the main piles on to handle 3/4 to WoT. CV carbs also use the main jet across the circuits. Since your issue happens in the low throttle range, the pilot circuit is the culprit. You can't change the pilot (slow speed) jet, but most carbs have screws to fine tune the pilot circuit. That's your pilot screw. CV carbs use just the one screw to manage the pilot mixture, and backing it out (IIRC) adds fuel to that circuit.
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Apr 26, 2013 17:09
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I'm trying to get my 99 R6 running right. It wouldn't idle below 3000 rpm and hesitated when I opened the throttle. Since cleaning the jets it runs better, but still won't idle below 3000 rpm. Obviously a pilot circuit problem, do pilot adjustment screws new to be removed and cleaned? I just did the Zool fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Apr 26, 2013 |
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Apr 26, 2013 17:40
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Yup. Blow out the passages with carb cleaner too.
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Apr 26, 2013 17:42
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Zool posted:I'm trying to get my 99 R6 running right. It wouldn't idle below 3000 rpm and hesitated when I opened the throttle. Since cleaning the jets it runs better, but still won't idle below 3000 rpm. Obviously a pilot circuit problem, do pilot adjustment screws new to be removed and cleaned? I just did the needles, a couple of them were plugged. Maybe. Could also be an intake leak. Float height could be wrong. Ignition timing could be off (if adjustable on that bike).
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Apr 26, 2013 17:44
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Was lubing the chain yesterday when I noticed the chain was being a little jumpy, I just had it tightened about a month ago too. Is this normal? http://youtu.be/-hdAVNzPQEk
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Apr 26, 2013 17:47
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Tamir Lenk posted:Maybe. Could also be an intake leak. Float height could be wrong. Ignition timing could be off (if adjustable on that bike). Checked for an intake leak, could float height only affect 0-1/8 throttle position? I think ignition timing is set in stone by the ecu, have to look into that.
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Apr 26, 2013 18:04
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Ashex posted:Was lubing the chain yesterday when I noticed the chain was being a little jumpy, I just had it tightened about a month ago too. Doesn't look normal to me. Looks like one or more of the links is frozen and won't articulate?
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Apr 26, 2013 18:34
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Zool posted:Checked for an intake leak, could float height only affect 0-1/8 throttle position? I think ignition timing is set in stone by the ecu, have to look into that. There's nothing to make the ignition timing drift on the R6. If you didn't remove, clean, and reset the pilot screws, you didn't actually clean the carbs.
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Apr 26, 2013 19:23
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Ashex posted:Was lubing the chain yesterday when I noticed the chain was being a little jumpy, I just had it tightened about a month ago too. Shouldn't you never, ever run the engine when the bike is on a stand and you're monkeying with the chain?
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Apr 26, 2013 21:28
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Ashex posted:Was lubing the chain yesterday when I noticed the chain was being a little jumpy, I just had it tightened about a month ago too. Sometimes they'll look a little strange at idle. I'd check each individual link for smooth articulation, inspect for broken sideplates, and clean and lube it. Then check the tightness in multiple spots and verify that it's consistent.
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Apr 26, 2013 21:42
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epalm posted:Shouldn't you never, ever run the engine when the bike is on a stand and you're monkeying with the chain? That's really only a concern if you have hands.
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Apr 26, 2013 21:45
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KozmoNaut posted:How does it make you feel to throw perfectly good oil away? DRZs have a 1.5 quart capacity and the generally recommended oil change interval is about 1500 miles.
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Apr 26, 2013 22:14
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Intervals are weird, my 80s thumper with a ~2 quart sump had a 3000 mile interval. 2003 Buell XBs had an interval of 2500 miles, while later ones got 5000. I'm happy with my 5000 mile interval, I know changing oil is piss easy but I still don't like the job, having to get rid of the old oil, and the fact that synth oil's pretty expensive.
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Apr 26, 2013 22:34
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epalm posted:Shouldn't you never, ever run the engine when the bike is on a stand and you're monkeying with the chain? Probably, but how else was I supposed to get a decent video? Z3n posted:Sometimes they'll look a little strange at idle. I'd check each individual link for smooth articulation, inspect for broken sideplates, and clean and lube it. Then check the tightness in multiple spots and verify that it's consistent. I'll take a look at it later. It does make a very faint clicking sound that you can hear in the video. That's what is really bothering me.
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Apr 26, 2013 22:43
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Ashex posted:Probably, but how else was I supposed to get a decent video? I've found this happens when my sprockets get middle-aged, but lubing the chain generally makes it go away.
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Apr 27, 2013 00:11
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I have a 2004 Ninja 500, 18.5k+ miles. Battery has been giving me poo poo (not holding charge for very long) but another issue has cropped up: the starter isn't working unless it is actually plugged into the wall with my trickle charger. Every time I hit the starter switch I get rapid constant clicks, with no turn over. I ordered a new battery, but I get the impression that won't fix this. Any advice? Reading through the manual gives me a lot of options for what's wrong. Worn brushes, dead relay, third moon of jupiter is out of alignment.
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Apr 27, 2013 00:50
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Rapid clicks generally means your battery is completely dead
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Apr 27, 2013 00:51
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DJ_Ferret posted:I have a 2004 Ninja 500, 18.5k+ miles. Battery has been giving me poo poo (not holding charge for very long) but another issue has cropped up: the starter isn't working unless it is actually plugged into the wall with my trickle charger. Every time I hit the starter switch I get rapid constant clicks, with no turn over. I ordered a new battery, but I get the impression that won't fix this. Any advice? Reading through the manual gives me a lot of options for what's wrong. Worn brushes, dead relay, third moon of jupiter is out of alignment. That will probably fix it. Bikes do some wonky poo poo with dead batteries.
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Apr 27, 2013 00:52
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