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Did you try crossing the relay with a screwdriver or some jumper wire? If it turns over, it's likely the relay on its way out.
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Apr 27, 2013 00:53
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whereisnovember posted:Did you try crossing the relay with a screwdriver or some jumper wire? If it turns over, it's likely the relay on its way out. I'd try a new battery before you test relays and stuff personally.
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Apr 27, 2013 00:55
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KozmoNaut posted:How does it make you feel to throw perfectly good oil away? The oil in a drz is completely garbage by 1500 miles. Big(ish) singles are not nice to oil, nor are their transmissions. As n8r mentioned, they don't carry much oil, and they abuse the poo poo out of the oil they do carry By 1500 miles my drz trans gets super notchy.
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Apr 27, 2013 01:08
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SaNChEzZ posted:That will probably fix it. Bikes do some wonky poo poo with dead batteries. That's what I've been thinking too, but it holds enough charge to light up the brake lights and signals and such when I turn the key to On. We'll see how the new battery treats me when it shows up.
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Apr 27, 2013 02:43
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DJ_Ferret posted:That's what I've been thinking too, but it holds enough charge to light up the brake lights and signals and such when I turn the key to On. We'll see how the new battery treats me when it shows up. That doesn't mean much unfortunately, that's probably 1/100th the power the starter takes to work properly a new battery will fix all.
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Apr 27, 2013 02:49
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Slavvy posted:I've found this happens when my sprockets get middle-aged, but lubing the chain generally makes it go away. Minor update, after riding to work today it seems to have improved. I lubed part of the chain again when I got home, I'll keep lubing it each day after a ride to work out the tight links and hopefully all should be well within a week or so.
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Apr 27, 2013 06:15
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SaNChEzZ posted:I'd try a new battery before you test relays and stuff personally. Oh I misread the post. Thought he had a new battery and it was still not cranking. 
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Apr 27, 2013 07:39
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I'm noticing a clicking sound when coming to a stop under heavy braking on the Daytona, would that be the steering head bearings?
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Apr 27, 2013 15:46
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Steering head bearings should be more noticeable than a clicking noise some of the time I would think. Year/Miles on your Daytona?
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Apr 27, 2013 15:49
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2008 model, 12,500 miles roughly. :edit: I should add that I haven't noticed any notchiness or anything. theperminator fucked around with this message at 15:57 on Apr 27, 2013 |
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Apr 27, 2013 15:55
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theperminator posted:I'm noticing a clicking sound when coming to a stop under heavy braking on the Daytona, would that be the steering head bearings? I'm dealing with the same issue (10000 miles); I also feel the bars shift a little when braking aggressively, but at low speed. I can trigger it by slowing down to ~10 mph and then grabbing the brakes, letting them go, grabbing again, etc. So maybe try that, and see if you feel the bars. Note that there's a couple of normal clicking/clunking sounds like the forks starting to move and the brakes grabbing. I had someone else listen where the sounds were coming from while I man handled the bike. Just bouncing it up and down, with or without the brake engaged didn't result in sounds or shifting from the steering head, but actually walking the bike up to speed and then grabbing the brakes did. I just tightened the steering stem nut a little, as far as I can tell it's not unheard of for them to get a bit loose and need re-adjusting, even though the bearings themselves might be fine. I hope that's the end of it. When I replaced the bearings on my old bike (bitch of a job) I had to re-tighten like three times to get them just right.
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Apr 27, 2013 15:56
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ReformedNiceGuy posted:So I've narrowed the bar search down to either Rental ultra lows or their flat version. The ultra lows seem like a pretty direct replacement but I think the flat bars look a lot cooler I'm just worried about them interfering with the fuel tank. Cross posting from the SV thread. I've got a naked K4 I want to replace the bars on. I've currently got some bars off a bandit on it but the rise makes me feel like I'm sat up for an interview!
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Apr 27, 2013 20:21
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I'm looking at a 2008 ninja 250 with my buddy to convert to a track bike. It was cold and difficult to start but that pretty normal since it hadn't been started in 2 months. The bad thing is it smokes horribly and doesn't rev at all. I have a video to post a little later. The guy installed some unknown can and did not re jet. He said he could never get it to start after installing. It has too much oil and it looks milky... Like light colored bubbly poo poo in the sight window sitting on the side stand. My buddy bought it for $1200 with the intention of dropping a new motor in it.
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Apr 27, 2013 21:17
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Well the mistake is already made. This sounds like it was a very bad choice on his part.
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Apr 27, 2013 21:22
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Nerobro posted:Well the mistake is already made. This sounds like it was a very bad choice on his part. My sentiments. He intends to put a new motor in it.
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Apr 27, 2013 21:42
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Not that it matters because he's replacing the engine, but milky coloured oil = water right?
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Apr 28, 2013 02:43
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On further inspection, it was gas in the oil. We just changed it and it runs like a champ! Carb cleaning coming soon.
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Apr 28, 2013 02:47
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XYLOPAGUS posted:On further inspection, it was gas in the oil. We just changed it and it runs like a champ! Carb cleaning coming soon. The rings are probably toast and/or it is running pig-loving rich. If you don't replace the engine, it'll likely need to be re-bored and get new pistons and rings.
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Apr 28, 2013 05:14
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A video of the bike before we trucked it home and changed the oil. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=StDpqpJu2_c It's going to the track very soon, so I will keep you guys posted. Even with a likely short life on this motor, $1200 isn't bad for this bike, right? He has a lot of connections in Houston and claims he could find a motor for $500 and swap it in himself.
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Apr 28, 2013 05:35
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Does it still smoke after the oil change? If it doesn't, just ride the gently caress out of it, it's fine.
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Apr 28, 2013 07:45
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Nope! We put some Seafoam in it (not sure if I would have done this in his shoes, but whatever), so we're going to burn that off ASAP, change the oil again, and ride the piss out of it. Such a fun day.
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Apr 28, 2013 08:01
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Stupid question here. Should I be able to see oil in the sight glass while my bike is running? It shows an acceptable level while off.
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Apr 28, 2013 22:28
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SB35 posted:Stupid question here. Should I be able to see oil in the sight glass while my bike is running? It shows an acceptable level while off. No, you shouldn't, the oil has better things to do when the engine is running than sitting in the sump.
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Apr 28, 2013 22:30
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My friend just bought an 82 Cx400/GL400 as his first bike; I test-rode it for him and told him it was a heap but the price is right and he likes lovely old bikes (because he's dumb). Anyway, it seems to pull pretty strong and smoothly up until you hit 5500-6000rpm, at which point the engine just seems to lose power and becomes reluctant to rev any further. It isn't choppy, it isn't cutting out or hesitating, it just seems to suddenly have half the horsepower it did earlier. Is this a fuel starvation issue, or something deeper involving fuel? I'm ruling out spark because it just doesn't feel like a spark issue. Also, the guy who sold it was a car mechanic (not a very good one from what I could tell) and he was convinced there is some sort of coil inside of the engine which energises the ignition coils outside the engine which in turn make spark. He said that a 'bike mechanic' told him this and to me it sounds like bollocks. This bike just has a conventional stator alternator inside the motor and conventional transistorised coil ignition, right? He bought it yesterday so I haven't yet had a chance to gently caress around with it.
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Apr 28, 2013 23:21
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Slavvy posted:My friend just bought an 82 Cx400/GL400 as his first bike; I test-rode it for him and told him it was a heap but the price is right and he likes lovely old bikes (because he's dumb). Anyway, it seems to pull pretty strong and smoothly up until you hit 5500-6000rpm, at which point the engine just seems to lose power and becomes reluctant to rev any further. It isn't choppy, it isn't cutting out or hesitating, it just seems to suddenly have half the horsepower it did earlier. If it runs fine up to that point I wouldn't think it'd be a spark issue. Spark is a really prevalent issue at idle, but if you can bring the revs up it's usually not the issue. I'd say it's the main jet being clogged. I'd do a carb clean/seafoam first.
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Apr 29, 2013 00:20
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Slavvy posted:Also, the guy who sold it was a car mechanic (not a very good one from what I could tell) and he was convinced there is some sort of coil inside of the engine which energises the ignition coils outside the engine which in turn make spark. He said that a 'bike mechanic' told him this and to me it sounds like bollocks. This bike just has a conventional stator alternator inside the motor and conventional transistorised coil ignition, right?
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Apr 29, 2013 01:38
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Engine falls flat at 4krpm? I'd suspect a timing issue. Or a clogged air filter. Or, a bad charging system and the thing is losing spark.
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Apr 29, 2013 01:44
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:CX500 you mean? Interpreting it loosely, the mechanic is right. There are actually multiple coils in there that run the ignition system. Looking at a wiring diagram, I see no less than four coils connected to the CDI. That's pretty stupid, even for Honda, you shouldn't really need more than two at most. I wouldn't expect those coils to be to blame for high RPM power issues, though. It's a 400 but yes it's a CX. Seriously, there are coils inside the engine which somehow cause ignition? What?
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Apr 29, 2013 02:35
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That's how a lot of older ignition systems work. It's how charging systems work. It's how modern crank sensors work. Everything is just a coil of wire somewhere in the engine with a magnet flying past it. They don't cause a spark plug spark on their own but they're part of the system.
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Apr 29, 2013 03:55
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:That's how a lot of older ignition systems work. It's how charging systems work. It's how modern crank sensors work. Everything is just a coil of wire somewhere in the engine with a magnet flying past it. They don't cause a spark plug spark on their own but they're part of the system. Oh so you're talking about a magnetic pick-up. That makes infinitely more sense and wasn't at all how the guy actually described the thing; that means it's basically exactly the same as every other bike ignition system for the past thirty years. I very much doubt that that is the issue, in that case.
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Apr 29, 2013 04:09
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Any of you guys have experience with Racetech products? I've heard generally positive things about their valving and such, but I'm looking for more specific personal experience as to how worthwhile the stuff is. Haha, I finally decided to just buy a new bike so of coarse my brain is now desperately trying to save my K bike and it's weird rear end handling.
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Apr 29, 2013 07:30
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I just ordered a set for my bike. And you can ask Halo_4am about his.
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Apr 29, 2013 07:41
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I have Racetech springs on my Bandit and everyone who has ridden it says it's quite nice.
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Apr 29, 2013 08:14
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Nerobro posted:I just ordered a set for my bike. And you can ask Halo_4am about his. Did I inspire you?  Their emulators really helped out the V-Max's handling. It has a reputation for not being able to turn worth a drat and it's well earned, before the emulator install if there was any mild road imperfection while I had the bike leaned over it would get a bit scary. I've put about 300 miles on since Nero helped me out with the install last weekend and there's no such shakiness anymore. I don't have any track experience so my review is a bit sparse unfortunately. I don't have the experience to really dig into why the suspension is such an improvement, but I can tell you that cornering used to be a bit dicey on this bike and now it's not at all. I'm finding more degrees of lean every day I ride it. One day soon I hope to be doing this on the straight line bike: 
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Apr 29, 2013 12:52
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Halo_4am posted:there's no such shakiness anymore. That's exactly the problem my K bike has. Even once I am setup in a turn the drat thing will try and break lose and feels like the beginning of a tank slapper. I've changed tires and this helps somewhere, but frankly it's weird and doesn't inspire confidence. The racetech poo poo really cured yours?
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Apr 29, 2013 12:55
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Halo_4am posted:Did I inspire you? Yeah. This weekend was valve job weekend. Now my bike is sitting with it's top off waiting for valve shims. I've also got some IKON shocks coming for the back end. ... I figure I'm going to have this bike for a while, so it's time to bring it up to speed.
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Apr 29, 2013 15:30
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Slavvy posted:Oh so you're talking about a magnetic pick-up. That makes infinitely more sense and wasn't at all how the guy actually described the thing; that means it's basically exactly the same as every other bike ignition system for the past thirty years. I very much doubt that that is the issue, in that case.
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Apr 29, 2013 15:32
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PadreScout posted:That's exactly the problem my K bike has. Even once I am setup in a turn the drat thing will try and break lose and feels like the beginning of a tank slapper. I've changed tires and this helps somewhere, but frankly it's weird and doesn't inspire confidence. The racetech poo poo really cured yours? Yeah it's a huge improvement over the stock springs and damping rod, but I don't know how much better vs a simple progressive spring for the correct body weight or less involved products like Ricor Intiminator's. There's no doubt a model specific forum you can dig up where people have tried all sorts of things and reported back. The V-Max guys all said the Race-Tech stuff was the way to go, and after reading their How it works a few times I understood the point and pulled the trigger on it. Aside from the suspension there's other areas to improve as well. Bottom line is the frame and weight setup for the bike blows for turning. That means a lot of things that would be unnoticeable by the average rider on a more forgivable bike are obvious to anybody on this bike. I was finding a minor shake on a fresh start early in the morning that was gone after a few miles and the tires warmed up. It was the weirdest thing... until I checked PSI first thing on a cold morning and found it a pound or so light. I put it a few pounds over the frame spec which is still well below the tire's max psi so that it was never under-inflated, and instead is just a bit over-inflated after it warms up. I find it handles fine with a few over, but like a complete pig when it's a few under, YMMV. When it's time for new tires I'm still planning to drop the extra cash on a larger rear wheels so I can switch over to radials. The front wheel will take a radial stock, but the rear is only 15" and the only radials for 15" rims are intended for scooters. I don't imagine having a radial in front and bias-ply in the rear would go over so well. Nerobro posted:Yeah. This weekend was valve job weekend. Now my bike is sitting with it's top off waiting for valve shims. I've also got some IKON shocks coming for the back end. ... I figure I'm going to have this bike for a while, so it's time to bring it up to speed. Nice. I'll be looking to mess with the rear suspension as well, but the budget doesn't look to be allowing for it until the winter/next season. Halo_4am fucked around with this message at 15:48 on Apr 29, 2013 |
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Apr 29, 2013 15:45
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Well, yes and no. The pickup is a coil. There's also multiple other coils that provide power to the CDI box, whereas the pickup merely tells the CDI box when to fire the spark. The other coils are what I think of as the alternator, unless I'm severely mistaken and there's some other entirely separate system for the lights, battery charging etc.
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Apr 29, 2013 21:02
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Nerobro posted:Yeah. This weekend was valve job weekend. Now my bike is sitting with it's top off waiting for valve shims. I've also got some IKON shocks coming for the back end. ... I figure I'm going to have this bike for a while, so it's time to bring it up to speed. Shoulda gone with Hagon shocks.
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Apr 29, 2013 21:53
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