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You guys got me all paranoid with all this mileage talk. I filled up earlier than normal and I got 32MPG with almost all city driving, didn't even put 10 gallons in. If you're really concerned about mileage you need to get some hard skinny tires and accelerate and brake slower. (Also cutting a bunch of weight and running 3.63 gears helps too, when I really tried the best I got was 41MPG driving all highways cross country)
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May 1, 2013 23:08
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Sadi posted:Just a warning, the mileage will not be as good and with a 2000 I think you might need to run mid grade or premium. I dont really remember the compression ratios on the NBs. My NA with 75 city 25 highway gets 20-23 and almost 100% highway gets 24-27 (in the last year I have owned it, I have seen above 26mpg 3 times). I drive it relatively hard, but not much harder than I did with my 99 accord DX that got 28-31mpg average. 2000s take regular unleaded.
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May 2, 2013 00:19
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Larrymer posted:Getting the urge to get another Miata since my current beater is terrible and soul sucking (99 Civic with ~170k miles). I figure it will at least be somewhat fun to drive and get somewhat comparable gas mileage. It's a 2nd car anyway, so it doesn't really need to be practical. There's a 2000 NB on CL for 3k that I might have to call about. Do it man, I did after driving a Kia for two years, even though it was a BP and kinda fun. Been daily driving a Miata (again) for over a year now and I love it, I'm never going back to an econobox.
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May 2, 2013 01:54
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I took off the door panel. What is the purpose of the plastic sheet inside? Does it need to be there?
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May 2, 2013 04:26
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Vapor barrier.
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May 2, 2013 04:39
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phootnote posted:I took off the door panel. What is the purpose of the plastic sheet inside? Does it need to be there? I took mine off, gently caress those things. The "tar" that they use to attach it to the door is horrible poo poo and is a bitch to completely remove, and gets all over everything if you're not careful. Goof Off or Goo Gone is about the only thing that works. When I replaced the window guides and cleaned/regreased the tracks and cables I just chucked the plastic, scraped off all the tar I could with a razor blade and used Goo Gone to wipe off what was left. It took me longer to do that than it did messing with the window stuff.
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May 2, 2013 05:20
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leica posted:I took mine off, gently caress those things. The "tar" that they use to attach it to the door is horrible poo poo and is a bitch to completely remove, and gets all over everything if you're not careful. Goof Off or Goo Gone is about the only thing that works. When I replaced the window guides and cleaned/regreased the tracks and cables I just chucked the plastic, scraped off all the tar I could with a razor blade and used Goo Gone to wipe off what was left. It took me longer to do that than it did messing with the window stuff. Yea, I want to clean it up when I figure out what speakers to replace stock with. Any recommendations for speakers?
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May 2, 2013 05:46
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I got these: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Alpine+...akers&cp=1&lp=4 I also plan on sealing up the doors with sound deadener to improve speaker performance. RAAM Audio has a great product at a great price, and also show you how to do it the right way: http://www.raamaudio.com/pages/How%252dTo.html
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May 2, 2013 06:38
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phootnote posted:I took off the door panel. What is the purpose of the plastic sheet inside? Does it need to be there?
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May 2, 2013 10:56
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It is a plastic sheet adhered to the door, and the panel is cardboard like material. I will replace that sheet and maybe add some foam in there to dampen vibrations and what not. leica posted:I got these: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Alpine+...akers&cp=1&lp=4 I got bored and went to chat with a car audio guy. I been thinking about getting new speakers, and he recommends that the odds of new speakers being much better than stock are not significant. Argh... I don't know.
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May 2, 2013 17:38
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That "car audio guy" is an idiot, don't listen to him.
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May 2, 2013 17:48
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phootnote posted:I got bored and went to chat with a car audio guy. I been thinking about getting new speakers, and he recommends that the odds of new speakers being much better than stock are not significant. Argh... I don't know. In a 90s miata? Any aftermarket speaker is probably better than the paper cones that come stock.
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May 2, 2013 17:52
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Anybody who drops serious coin on the sound system in a Miata is probably missing the point of a convertible. $550 for a triple pass radiator on the other hand...
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May 2, 2013 20:02
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Phone posted:Anybody who drops serious coin on the sound system in a Miata is probably missing the point of a convertible. Not everyone wants a race car, and in order to really enjoy audio in any convertible you have to spend some money. You don't have to spend "serious coin", but like any other mods it's gonna cost money obviously. Luckily for me I already have a stash of amps/subs/head units from previous vehicles so I have already spent most of the money that it's gonna take to make my Miata sound good, I just need the time to install it all now.
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May 2, 2013 20:40
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Woosh. I was getting at how a convertible has a poo poo load of wind noise by design. I was also making fun of myself and pointing out that race car upgrades are just as much of a money sink. That and how I'm probably the worst person to ask about where to spend money on a Miata.
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May 2, 2013 20:51
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I am just looking for crisper sound, but I definitely did not buy my miata for the audio. I am going to change out the headunit though, so I can at least listen to some of my favorite tunes as I mosey around on the streets.
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May 2, 2013 20:53
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Phone posted:Woosh. Didn't come across as sarcasm to me  But yeah, depending what you're into it's all a money sink. And honestly the Miata isn't that bad audio wise because the headrest speakers help a lot (NA), and it being a roadster means there's less interior space to fill with sound. A decent head unit, amp, and a ten inch sub in the passenger footwell works wonders. I'd say for about $500 you could build a good system.
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May 2, 2013 21:28
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leica posted:That "car audio guy" is an idiot, don't listen to him.
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May 2, 2013 21:45
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Well really it was only bad business for him because I didn't buy a speaker from him. I drive an NB so there is a bit of truth if you compare with NA speakers.
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May 2, 2013 23:17
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No not really, because you either have the lovely Mazda speakers or the Bose speakers which are even worse. Replacing the stock speakers makes the biggest difference, a head unit and amp are close behind. But if you really don't care about audio quality then don't bother.
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May 2, 2013 23:23
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In my experience I've found OEM speakers to be more than adequate if you (a) Remove their bass-driving responsibilities with a crossover and (b) add a subwoofer.
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May 3, 2013 13:26
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My '97 came with some Infinity speakers installed already and are ptetty solid, and I swapped out the headunit for some $100 Alpine with bluetooth audio so I basically just turn on my car and the music from my phone starts playing 
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May 3, 2013 14:22
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Bluetooth audio doesn't bother you? It always sounds horrible to me.
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May 3, 2013 15:46
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I don't know if the technology has improved or what, but the unit I have just came on the market and I can't tell the difference in quality between the Aux, USB, and bluetooth, it's a pretty impressive piece of kit. Also comes with a mic for bluetooth calling. http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/ute-42bt/
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May 3, 2013 16:16
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I agree, I have a Bluetooth speaker at home that uses the latest protocols and it sounds awesome. I take it over aux in because its digital and I dont have to worry about clipping.
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May 3, 2013 16:21
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TooLShack posted:Bluetooth audio doesn't bother you? It always sounds horrible to me. Haha, kids these days don't notice that poo poo like us audiophiles dude. If you've never owned a CD/LP or a quality system to play one, bluetooth audio probably sounds awesome.
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May 3, 2013 16:28
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I have never used bluetooth for music, but the headunit I plan to get will have that capability. I like my speakers in the miata now, but I hate that it loses clarity when the volume is higher. I went to listen to a few speakers at the store, and they sound crappy too... listened to some polk's, infinity's, kicker's, pioneer's, and alpine. They all sound raspy.
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May 3, 2013 19:00
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Your speakers distort at high volumes because they are crap and the stock head unit is crap. You cannot judge speakers at a store because they aren't in your car and more times than not are not properly powered. If you want a good sounding system that doesn't distort you have to replace the entire thing with a head unit, amp, and speakers. You really need to take this to the car audio thread because it's starting to poo poo up this one. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3520908 Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 19:10 on May 3, 2013 |
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May 3, 2013 19:07
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Anyone have any good information about converting to coil on plug? Has anyone here done it? My coils are starting to poo poo the bed so I'm thinking of making the upgrade, but I haven't seen any decent how-to's as of yet.
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May 4, 2013 18:23
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Done it, I used toyota coils. There's tons of info on it on miataturbo as it's more common on them since spark gets a little weak with forced induction. http://www.miataturbo.net/useful-saved-posts-8/upgrading-coil-plugs-all-years-cop-writeup-12704/
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May 4, 2013 18:56
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COP has issues with stock ecu and ignition where they tend to die suddenly. Something about dwell signal being too low. They are best used with aftermarket ignition controls.
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May 4, 2013 21:21
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Ah, gotcha. I was wondering why it wasn't more common. If the COP coils are just as likely to poo poo the bed with stock ignition/ecu I may as well just keep it stock for now 
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May 4, 2013 22:12
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They do last a while, some people just carry a spare set.
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May 4, 2013 23:09
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Yep, I had MS on mine when it was done so I didn't have to worry about that stuff.
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May 5, 2013 00:54
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Are there any particular aftermarket oe coil brands that are better than others? Rockauto has a few going from $85 to $137.
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May 5, 2013 01:21
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I am going to be doing a turbo DSM ignition swap. All you need are the coils, connectors, and the ignition module. No megasquirt or dwell mods needed.
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May 5, 2013 02:49
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Most popular is toyota corolla. VIsit the JY and you get free connectors as well.
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May 5, 2013 07:01
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I'm picking up an NB with Tein lowering springs and want to replace the stock wheels with some 15x8 +25 and 205/50/15. Something tells me that I'll have to roll to avoid rubbing, right?
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May 5, 2013 19:18
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With an NB you might get away with it. Don't think you could on an NA. I only say this because when I was looking to get 15x9 6UL's, they fit much easier on an NB than NA supposedly.
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May 5, 2013 19:34
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Whelp, I figured out my no-start condition on my '90. I bungled my installation of the replacement fuel pump. There's a series of spacers and an o-ring that go between the fuel pump and the rest of the in-tank sending unit. When I took the old pump off, all the little pieces came flying off and I had to take a guess at what order they should be reassembled in. I got it wrong. The proper sequence is: fuel pump > big spacer > o-ring > little spacer > sending unit It runs fine now. Now that I can drive the car for the first time in 5 years, I'm struck by how lovely my AGX/FM spring setup rides. So, if you have change out your fuel pump, be careful when taking the old one off.
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May 6, 2013 13:50
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