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Safety Dance posted:Hey, is there anything stopping me from using safety wire on these guys, or should I use epoxy like they recommend? Do they really say epoxy?  That seems....awfully permanent. I just slide the grips on with soapy water and when it dries they're glued in place pretty well. Or try a tube of Griploc maybe?
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May 3, 2013 23:45
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I've used hairspray. It's lube when it's wet, glue when dry.
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May 3, 2013 23:46
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Sagebrush posted:Do they really say epoxy? I think the issue is, when the grips get hot they expand and can come off if there's no adhesive, and most adhesives lose their adhesion at a temperature lower than the maximum setting for the grips.
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May 3, 2013 23:48
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This is a silly newb question, but does anyone have a specific home air compressor they would recommend? I've had the importance of maintaining proper tire pressure drilled into me and I want to have a setup at home for when I finally get a bike (hopefully this weekend!).
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May 4, 2013 00:16
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MarquisDeCarabas posted:This is a silly newb question, but does anyone have a specific home air compressor they would recommend? I've had the importance of maintaining proper tire pressure drilled into me and I want to have a setup at home for when I finally get a bike (hopefully this weekend!). Also, air tools are a gift from the gods, so there's that.
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May 4, 2013 00:18
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It kind of sucks, but you can use a bicycle pump no problem to correct air pressure. If it's just fixing a few psi of difference it's really not much effort. And it's a lot cheaper than a compressor (free assuming you already have one on-hand). Of course compressors are great and can power air tools so if you have a garage and some money to spend absolutely get one.
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May 4, 2013 00:22
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Just do not get the tiny Husky or equivalent "oil-free" compressors from Home Depot (or equivalent). They are poo poo and will run constantly and burn themselves out trying to keep up with an air tool.
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May 4, 2013 00:33
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Safety Dance posted:I think the issue is, when the grips get hot they expand and can come off if there's no adhesive, and most adhesives lose their adhesion at a temperature lower than the maximum setting for the grips. I have those same grips and didnt glue them on. On the clutch side, sometimes the part of the grip that protrudes out (to accommodate the wiring for the heating element) rotates enough such that it gets in the way of the clutch operation. So yeah, I would hairspray or some kind of glue to hold them in place.
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May 4, 2013 01:18
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This may be Ninja 250 specific: Is it normal for rocker arms to wobble a bit side to side? It's making it difficult to get an accurate clearance measurement.
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May 4, 2013 01:28
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SB35 posted:I know a lot of you like to run Rotella T6 5W-40 synthetic so I wanted to let you guys know that it's $9 after rebate for a gallon at Advance Auto Parts right now. That link says $22.99. AITOO?
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May 4, 2013 01:35
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MarquisDeCarabas posted:This is a silly newb question, but does anyone have a specific home air compressor they would recommend? I've had the importance of maintaining proper tire pressure drilled into me and I want to have a setup at home for when I finally get a bike (hopefully this weekend!). http://www.amazon.com/Accu-Gage-Air...+pressure+gauge The bike pump locks onto the gage and the gage clips onto the valve of the tire so I don't have to hold anything. With the pump I use it's about 1 pump per PSI for the front tire and 2 pumps for the rear. No waiting on an air compressor, easy and quick enough that I do it every ride.
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May 4, 2013 02:19
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XYLOPAGUS posted:That link says $22.99. AITOO? Apparently the stupidly awesome deal was an error!
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May 4, 2013 02:28
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Guinness posted:It kind of sucks, but you can use a bicycle pump no problem to correct air pressure. If it's just fixing a few psi of difference it's really not much effort. And it's a lot cheaper than a compressor (free assuming you already have one on-hand). Yeah I top off my tires with a bicycle T pump. It's about .5 psi a pump and I check them often enough that they never need more than 3 pounds or so.
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May 4, 2013 07:01
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I just ride 5-6 blocks down to the gas station and use the automatic air pump there. 
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May 4, 2013 11:41
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Collateral Damage posted:I just ride 5-6 blocks down to the gas station and use the automatic air pump there. All the gas stations around here charge. Plus the gas station pump doesn't help when you have a tire with 0 psi
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May 4, 2013 14:35
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:All the gas stations around here charge. Plus the gas station pump doesn't help when you have a tire with 0 psi Wheelie the entire way there.
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May 4, 2013 14:39
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Guinness posted:It kind of sucks, but you can use a bicycle pump no problem to correct air pressure. If it's just fixing a few psi of difference it's really not much effort. And it's a lot cheaper than a compressor (free assuming you already have one on-hand). I wouldn't even say it sucks. Use bicycle floor pump with a built in gauge and check pressure weekly. It never takes more than a few minutes.
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May 4, 2013 14:57
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I wouldn't recommend trusting the built-in gage of a bike pump; my fairly fancy pump reads 6PSI higher than my much fancier dedicated pressure gage.
MonkeyNutZ fucked around with this message at 16:58 on May 4, 2013 |
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May 4, 2013 16:36
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Harbor freight has a $3.99 mini dial gauge that's pretty bang-on accurate; I keep one of those shoved in the little onboard tool kit. e: huh, the reviews of that model now say that it reads 4psi low. Mine is accurate, but it's older. Caveat Emptor. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 02:12 on May 5, 2013 |
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May 4, 2013 18:47
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MonkeyNutZ posted:I wouldn't recommend trusting the built-in gage of a bike pump; my fairly fancy pump reads 6PSI higher than my much fancier dedicated pressure gage. Yeah my T pump reads 3psi high. For all the pressure gauges I've tried I actually trust the cheapo silver pen ones the most, though a little digital one I had was pretty good too.
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May 4, 2013 21:15
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Thanks for all of the input regarding just using a bicycle pump; I'll give that a shot!
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May 6, 2013 02:37
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Does anyone have recommendations for chain/cable locks?
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May 6, 2013 16:00
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Always combine a cable with a D-lock. Other than that, the Abus Diskus lock is pretty beefy as far as keyed padlocks go for the cable/chain.
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May 6, 2013 19:46
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I bought a 1986 Suzuki GP100 that looks like it's been kept in pretty good nick for £300 as a cheaper way of getting to my new job. I've just passed my CBT and have it booked in for an MOT on Wednesday. I noticed that the lights were pretty dim and the indicators straight up didn't work tonight. I was told by a friend to start it up, rev it a little for a while, and then that should do it because it'll be something to do with the battery and months of non-use. This would be great except it doesn't idle. There's a few seconds of life and then the revs get so low it cuts out. Any ideas as to what could be causing this? Is the battery to blame for the light issues? I really wanted to ride it to the MOT place but with no indicators, it stalling every time I slow down, and me being a complete novice I'd feel much safer walking it there (guess I could do with the exercise too)
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May 6, 2013 21:02
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You should read up on what an MOT entails. There's no way it will pass if the lights aren't working or you can't run it. Just revving it for 5 minutes won't charge up the battery. You either need to get a battery tender or go for a decent 30-40 minute ride on a road where you can get the revs up i.e. not just around town. Dump some fuel cleaner in the tank and top it up with fresh fuel. Also check the idle screw and that the petcock is working correctly.
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May 6, 2013 21:21
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Abiggoat posted:1986 Suzuki GP100 That's probably a 6 volt system, right? It could probably do with a bit of battery charging, it's not exactly brimming with electrons on the best of days either. If it won't idle, it might just be too cold. Are you giving it some choke?
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May 6, 2013 21:23
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Ola posted:That's probably a 6 volt system, right? It could probably do with a bit of battery charging, it's not exactly brimming with electrons on the best of days either. If it won't idle, it might just be too cold. Are you giving it some choke? Yes it is. With choke it lasts a little longer, and as long as there's some decent revs it will run. I have seen everything running as it should when my friend test drove it (and then later when he was riding it around his farm). Since then (2/3 weeks ago) its been sat in my garage untouched. I'll check the petcock and the idle screw tomorrow morning. I need to have a good Google around tonight so I've got a better idea of what that entails.
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May 6, 2013 21:38
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A bad battery can also cause one to die at idle. Because at idle the charging system isn't putting out enough to overcome the draw from the dead battery and still power the coil.
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May 7, 2013 00:32
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Bubbles in my sight glass. Problem?
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May 7, 2013 15:02
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epalm posted:Bubbles in my sight glass. Problem? Yeah, your oil level is slightly low.
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May 7, 2013 15:04
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In Ontario, you first get an M1 (written test, lasts 90 days, no pillion, no nighttime, 0.0 BAC), then an M2 (parking lot test, lasts 18 months, 0.0 BAC), then you can get you M (full road test, lasts forever, and I think you can have some amount of booze without the cops throwing you directly into jail, not that I would drink and ride a motorcycle). I'm taking my full M license test next week. One thing I'm not clear on is lane blocking on a road with more than 2 lanes. 1 lane road: Ride in the left tire track, to prevent cars from sneaking past as if you were a bicycle. 2 lane road: If you're in the right lane, see above. Left lane, stay in the right tire track for similar reasons. 3+ lane road (highway): I get the leftmost and rightmost lanes, see above. But when you're in a lane which also has lanes on either side, which tire track are you "supposed" to ride in?
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May 8, 2013 05:45
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The Ontario motorcycle handbook says "don't ride in the middle lane, because you do not have a blocking position." So I assume do that, and if you do have to be in the middle lane just pick either one. Don't ride in the middle cause that's where all the oil and glass is.
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May 8, 2013 05:47
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I always try to ride in the left track to "take the lane." I feel that it increases my safety, as it forces cars to do a full pass maneuver to get around me instead of basic sneaking, and it gives me room to move right as a failsafe in case they fail at the mentioned task (as people do from time to time).
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May 8, 2013 05:51
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Ugh, the local fuel importers announced that they are going to stop importing Super Unleaded. Cue uproar from motorcyclists, vintage car owners, the local motorsport clubs et al. Now they've announced that they will supply it, but only to two stations (presumably at hugely inflated prices). Is there any way to modify an engine for lovely fuel short of lowering the compression ratio? Will ignition advance make enough of a difference?
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May 8, 2013 09:37
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Advancing the ignition would do the opposite of what you want -- it would guarantee that the fuel would ignite too early. You might try retarding the timing and using a much colder plug? Better the power loss from retarded timing than the damage caused by early ignition. Or just get used to buying octane boosters by the gallon...
Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 09:48 on May 8, 2013 |
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May 8, 2013 09:45
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ReelBigLizard posted:Ugh, the local fuel importers announced that they are going to stop importing Super Unleaded. Cue uproar from motorcyclists, vintage car owners, the local motorsport clubs et al. Now they've announced that they will supply it, but only to two stations (presumably at hugely inflated prices). What kind of bike do you have? My ZX6R called for 87.
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May 8, 2013 11:09
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Yeah, don't most motorcycles run fine on regular (95RON/91AKI)? My B6 wants 91RON and I've never seen anything less than 92RON around here.
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May 8, 2013 11:43
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KTM 690 SMC, manual states a minimum of 97RON. Ready to Race Sagebrush posted:Advancing the ignition would do the opposite of what you want -- it would guarantee that the fuel would ignite too early. You might try retarding the timing and using a much colder plug? Better the power loss from retarded timing than the damage caused by early ignition. Or just get used to buying octane boosters by the gallon... I meant adjusting the ignition advance, not specifically advancing it further. I can adjust the ignition curve in TuneECU. The original mapping for the bike has a map for lovely fuel that I can copy the values from but the manual also said not to use that map for more than one tank. Octane boosters might be an option, I'll have to see what the prices are like between the overpriced fuel and octane treatments. I feel sorry for the young riders at the moment though, many of them run tuned/overbored two strokes like KTM 125EXC supermotos and scooters. Low octane fuel in those is a sure recipe for a two-stroke runaway.
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May 8, 2013 12:33
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ReelBigLizard posted:KTM 690 SMC, manual states a minimum of 97RON. Cross that off the list of possible future bikes, then  It's borderline impossible to find normal unleaded 98RON around here anymore, and V-Power/Nitro3000 etc. 97-99RON are hella expensive.
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May 8, 2013 12:39
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Actually the current (2010+) user manual I just downloaded says 95. Weird, I wonder if my manual had a misprint or I misread it four years ago. It's a fairly high compression engine so it made sense to me that it would be 97.
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May 8, 2013 12:50
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