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KamNZ
May 4, 2009

At least I'm warm...
Just a quick heads up in regards to brushes.

A while back I picked up a Raphael 8404 Kolinsky Sable brush (which are supposed to be right up there with the W&N Series 7) from Secret Weapon as well as a few random cheapies from Maelstrom before it shut down. One of these was a Creative Models Kolinsky Sable. The thing is, the two brushes are so similar that unless I double check the end of the brush I often don't notice which I have picked up.

It looks like Wayland is now stocking them and they're still dirt cheap. Definitely worth a look if you're trying to save a few bucks.

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Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

Strike quick and hurry at him,
not caring to hit or miss.
So that you dishonor him before the judges



OneTrueBru posted:

Worked well enough with my Deathwing termies. I airbrushed their armour, sprayed on some Pledge Multi-Surface Wax (apparently the UK's Klear-equivalent) and then pin-washed them with Raw Umber. I would maybe recommend buying a decent solvent for the oil; using cheapo DIY store white spirit, my wash looked fine while wet, but went a teensy bit patchy after drying. However, that may just have been due to me loving up and over-thinning everything.



How did you paint the lenses? I want to do a similar lens color on my Tau.

Slimnoid
Sep 6, 2012

Does that mean I don't get the job?

IrvingWashington posted:

Okay, if I can achieve anything close to this with PledgeFutureMultiKlearWax then I'm convinced.

I stand by Pledge for my glossing needs. It goes through my airbrush very well with no thinning needed, and it's pretty rock-hard as far as gloss is concerned. It's also really cheap--I got my bottle for about $7, and I'm betting it'll last me for years at this rate.

Indolent Bastard
Oct 26, 2007

I WON THIS AMAZING AVATAR! I'M A WINNER! WOOOOO!

Slimnoid posted:

I stand by Pledge for my glossing needs. It goes through my airbrush very well with no thinning needed, and it's pretty rock-hard as far as gloss is concerned. It's also really cheap--I got my bottle for about $7, and I'm betting it'll last me for years at this rate.

Can you link a picture of the Pledge you are speaking of? I'm pretty sure I'm thinking of something different. Also what is involved in cleaning the airbrush afterwards?

JoshTheStampede
Sep 8, 2004

come at me bro

Indolent Bastard posted:

Can you link a picture of the Pledge you are speaking of? I'm pretty sure I'm thinking of something different. Also what is involved in cleaning the airbrush afterwards?

Future Floor Wax is now called Pledge With Future Shine in the US. I think it's called Klear in the UK but it's all the same stuff. Consistency of water, smells chemical-fruity, and is made to be floor polish.

Cleaning the brush is the same as cleaning paint out of it, I just use windex but any airbrush cleaner will do fine. Just clean it before it dries and you're fine.

Slimnoid
Sep 6, 2012

Does that mean I don't get the job?

Indolent Bastard posted:

Can you link a picture of the Pledge you are speaking of? I'm pretty sure I'm thinking of something different. Also what is involved in cleaning the airbrush afterwards?

JoshTheStampede posted:

Future Floor Wax is now called Pledge With Future Shine in the US. I think it's called Klear in the UK but it's all the same stuff. Consistency of water, smells chemical-fruity, and is made to be floor polish.

Cleaning the brush is the same as cleaning paint out of it, I just use windex but any airbrush cleaner will do fine. Just clean it before it dries and you're fine.

What he said. Also, fun bonus fact! If you make a 50/50 mix of Pledge and water, you make a good thinner and flow aid combination. I've been using it with regular paint for a while, with some good results. I'd suggest putting the mix in a big bottle, with some of it in a dropper bottle for on-the-spot thinning.

Squiggly Beast
Apr 29, 2009

orksorksOrksORKS!
:orks: :orks101:
Gravy Boat 2k

Dirty Job posted:

How did you paint the lenses? I want to do a similar lens color on my Tau.

They're cribbed from GW's Sicarius how-to, but with VGC colours -

1:1 Bloody red:black basecoat -> bloody red for the front 50% or so, with a little dab of hot orange as a highlight in the "tear duct" area -> thin line of sun yellow along the bottom of the lens, then highlight the very front of the line with 1:1 sun yellow:white. Then it's just the usual dot of white at the back.

Indolent Bastard posted:

Can you link a picture of the Pledge you are speaking of? I'm pretty sure I'm thinking of something different. Also what is involved in cleaning the airbrush afterwards?

It's the very first image if you google "Pledge Multi Surface Wax" - white bottle, blue plastic cap, says 'The improved formula KLEAR is now...' on the label. Here's the company blurb, with a picture: http://www.scjohnson.co.uk/nqcontent.cfm?a_id=7864

The directions on the back recommend using dilute ammonia to remove the wax, but standard airbrush cleaner seems to handle things just fine. I have a big bottle of the Createx stuff, and while it's not fantastic, it does the job.

Squiggly Beast fucked around with this message at 19:36 on May 8, 2013

Purgey
Nov 5, 2008
Sculpting take two! I decided to sculpt from a design picture a friend of mine made.



Even though his picture is infinitely more cute than my model I am pleased with how the sculpt turned out. I figure with a little paint to dress him up the SpaceCat it will look alright. In fact I'm currently building a small crew of SpaceCats for use in a homebrew skirmish game (and also as more practice sculpting since the large, rounded features of the model are beginner friendly)

The inspiration for the SpaceCats goes back to high school. My artist pal and another close friend all used to doodle various cartoon animals having a kind of sci-fi war during our free time. Actually modeling old high school ideas is deeply satisfying.

Here is a link to an old animated storyboard of the SpaceCats fighting SpaceRodents that my artist buddy made. I'd kill for his kind of talent, he is a professional designer/animator/artist

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWzu7t9J2Ww

All credit goes to my friend, naturally. I'd love to sculpt up both sides to that storyboard.

BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat
I know I'm late to the party, but I use Maimeri white spirit for my oil paints. Its really high quality stuff, but it has an odor and it costs more than Mona Lisa.

I think the 'buy painted' guy uses it too.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

LumberingTroll posted:

Progress update on my Firestorm Armada Sorylian fleet.



I like them - I wasn't too keen on the orange before, but with the white, they look pretty sharp.

Limp Wristed Limey posted:

Still working on my hellbrute, got a few sessions to go yet. The gold should become darker after the oil wash:


I'm liking this as well - the armor panels look really nice.

LumberingTroll
Sep 9, 2007

Really it's not because
I don't like you...

berzerkmonkey posted:

I like them - I wasn't too keen on the orange before, but with the white, they look pretty sharp.

Thanks! Yeah I was hesitant about the color as well, the white provides a nice contrast I think. I also think that the black pin washing will do a lot to break it up as there are tons of plates all over the surface of the ship. I also need to paint the windows, but am unsure what color to do them, I am thinking a shade of blue.

Dr Hemulen
Jan 25, 2003

Purgey posted:

Sculpting take two! I decided to sculpt from a design picture a friend of mine made.



Even though his picture is infinitely more cute than my model I am pleased with how the sculpt turned out. I figure with a little paint to dress him up the SpaceCat it will look alright. In fact I'm currently building a small crew of SpaceCats for use in a homebrew skirmish game (and also as more practice sculpting since the large, rounded features of the model are beginner friendly)

The inspiration for the SpaceCats goes back to high school. My artist pal and another close friend all used to doodle various cartoon animals having a kind of sci-fi war during our free time. Actually modeling old high school ideas is deeply satisfying.

Here is a link to an old animated storyboard of the SpaceCats fighting SpaceRodents that my artist buddy made. I'd kill for his kind of talent, he is a professional designer/animator/artist

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWzu7t9J2Ww

All credit goes to my friend, naturally. I'd love to sculpt up both sides to that storyboard.

What kind of tools are you using? I can't recommend clay shapers enough!

IrvingWashington
Dec 9, 2007

Shabbat Shalom
Clapping Larry

OneTrueBru posted:

It's the very first image if you google "Pledge Multi Surface Wax" - white bottle, blue plastic cap, says 'The improved formula KLEAR is now...' on the label. Here's the company blurb, with a picture: http://www.scjohnson.co.uk/nqcontent.cfm?a_id=7864

I have this kind (though it has a blue cap):


I tried it out as a flow aid and it definitely left the models I painted with a glossier finish - that was at about a 10:1 ratio of water to Pledge. I'm pretty sure it was the only kind I could find via US Amazon at the time, but looking at the back there's a formula for vinyl tiles that might be better, no idea. It definitely smells like chemical fruit. Tastes weird though (old habits die hard even after years and years of not painting :()

Purgey
Nov 5, 2008

HardCoil posted:

What kind of tools are you using? I can't recommend clay shapers enough!

I have a magnetized set of tools by Sculpey which includes two rubber headed shapers (one chisel, one rounded with a tip) a thin ball point metal poker, a large rounded metal head and a blade attachment.

Last time I went to the art store I was hoping to find clay shapers but they had none except for that one set. I could order some online but... well, :effort:

Lethemonster
Aug 5, 2009

I was hiding under your bench because I don't want to work out
I got bored of not being able to get my thoughts onto my models and struggling to find good references so I made my own massive bundle.

Disclaimer: I have no art on this, I use it purely to collect awesome pictures into.

http://tassja.deviantart.com/favourites/

I have categories from buildings, armour, natural environments, different lighting effects to colour theory stuff etc. I use it in my regular artwork and also when I'm painting minis so hopefully some of you guys can find it useful. There's some awesome images on deviantart but it's a complete shithole to look through.

I am using hundreds of pictures of baby tigers to help me design my tiger-stripe pattern for a phantom plane I'm painting :3:

LumberingTroll
Sep 9, 2007

Really it's not because
I don't like you...
Alright guys got a bit of an update on my side project...

Badland Games Laser Cut Module Terrain - Sci-fi

I have ordered my laser cutter, it will be delivered to my new house the first week of June. Pretty excited for this, as it will mean I start start prototyping these designs and making them much better.
To go along with this I have also ordered 2 tons (4000lbs) of MDF, pre-cut for my lasers bed, at 24" x 18". As soon as I get everything setup I will be ready to start rolling.

Project overview:
I ordered a laser-cutter (derp) and in order to make some of the money back I want to run a Kickstarter to sell some of my modular terrain. It will be affordable for almost any wargamer and will provide a huge amount of flexibility. I am not looking to make a living off of this, just fund my hobby, this means I don't have to charge a lot.

I have had some awesome suggestions about guaranteeing any future sales to any backed for a couple of years, then opening a small on demand web-site to sell more. I like this idea and will be looking into it for sure.

It can't become a full time job for me as I own a small software development studio and that is my main focus (Badland Studio, Kinetic Void on steam etc)

Here are some design shots from earlier in the thread, for those of you that have no clue what I am talking about.

Wall sections are 3" tall and 6" long.




These are not final designs, always open to suggestions

I will also be working on a Grim Dark theme, and I would like to design some 15mm and 10mm WW2 and Scifi, possibly even 6mm (BattleTech and Epic40k)

So yeah expect a lot of updates come mid mid June.
Feedback and questions are always welcome.

Sole.Sushi
Feb 19, 2008

Seaweed!? Get the fuck out!

LumberingTroll posted:

Laser Cutting

This looks great so far, and I'm glad to see you're getting things underway. But, I have question: does your machine cut things other than wood? If so, what can it cut?

crime fighting hog
Jun 29, 2006

I only pray, Heaven knows when to lift you out
Quick n dirty, gave airbrush blending my very first try and ya know, I'm pretty happy with the results.



It's not as smooth as I like. I dropped the PSI to about 15, thinned it pretty good with Windex. Could I do better? How?

Lovely Joe Stalin
Jun 12, 2007

Our Lovely Wang

Sole.Sushi posted:

This looks great so far, and I'm glad to see you're getting things underway. But, I have question: does your machine cut things other than wood? If so, what can it cut?

It should be able to work certain plastics.

VoodooXT
Feb 24, 2006
I want Tong Po! Give me Tong Po!

KamNZ posted:

One of these was a Creative Models Kolinsky Sable.

You mean Creative Mark? I recommended that brand of Kolinsky sable brushes some pages/months ago.

LumberingTroll
Sep 9, 2007

Really it's not because
I don't like you...

Sole.Sushi posted:

This looks great so far, and I'm glad to see you're getting things underway. But, I have question: does your machine cut things other than wood? If so, what can it cut?

Wood, cardboard, paper, plastic, acrylic, can engrave/etch on metal, and glass. I am getting a high grade hepafilter with it so I can cut thing that would otherwise be unhealthy.

Sole.Sushi
Feb 19, 2008

Seaweed!? Get the fuck out!

crime fighting hog posted:

It's not as smooth as I like. I dropped the PSI to about 15, thinned it pretty good with Windex. Could I do better? How?

Don't thin with Windex, thin with water and matte medium to ensure smooth coats. I also add flow improver, but that's just to help prevent tip dry.

LumberingTroll posted:

Wood, cardboard, paper, plastic, acrylic, can engrave/etch on metal, and glass. I am getting a high grade hepafilter with it so I can cut thing that would otherwise be unhealthy.

Cool, because my friend had an awesome idea for our Pathfinder games, by using a clear acrylic template for checking the areas for bursts and cones quick and easy. I'd imagine it'd be easy enough to make, and if you were able to, I'd love to pay you for it.

crime fighting hog
Jun 29, 2006

I only pray, Heaven knows when to lift you out

Sole.Sushi posted:

Don't thin with Windex, thin with water and matte medium to ensure smooth coats. I also add flow improver, but that's just to help prevent tip dry.

You got a ratio on ya, sushi?

LumberingTroll
Sep 9, 2007

Really it's not because
I don't like you...

Sole.Sushi posted:

Don't thin with Windex, thin with water and matte medium to ensure smooth coats. I also add flow improver, but that's just to help prevent tip dry.


Cool, because my friend had an awesome idea for our Pathfinder games, by using a clear acrylic template for checking the areas for bursts and cones quick and easy. I'd imagine it'd be easy enough to make, and if you were able to, I'd love to pay you for it.

Sure, send me a pm, or contact me on Skype: Sean.Pollman we can work something out. The more use I get out of it the better.

Sole.Sushi
Feb 19, 2008

Seaweed!? Get the fuck out!

crime fighting hog posted:

You got a ratio on ya, sushi?

About 45% Matte Medium, 10% Flow Improver, 45% Distilled Water. It's pretty much the APJ wash recipe, mixed up by eyeballing it. I've done some others with around the same ratio which work fine, so it doesn't need to be precise.

Icon Of Sin
Dec 26, 2008



Crosspost from the Oath thread, I just finished my last 3 Deathwing Terminators.

The final result:



I feel like I went a little heavy with the wash on the sergeant, but I was starting to get tired of painting him and just wanted to be finished. I'll do it again here shortly with some Grey Knight terminators I just got, so there's always that to look forward to :suicide:

Icon Of Sin posted:

:siren: Oath complete! :siren:

Squad:



Sergeant:



Chainfist:



Assault cannon:



:siren: Detektuv's Jurnal! :siren:

Squad:



Sergeant:



Assault cannon, pre-red/wash:



Chainfist, pre-shoulderpads and pre-bone touchup:



Parts list!

Primer used: Rustoleum Trim and Bumper Paint (I already had a can from working on my jeep, it worked out pretty well)

Paints (all citadel/GW paints):
-Ushabti Bone (shoulder pads, power fists. Fists were then lightly coated with Sycorax bronze, before being
washed with Nuln Oil)
-Sycorax Bronze (weapons, knee/elbow pads, armor joints on the back of their legs)
-Warplock Bronze (storm bolter magazines, any kind of electrical wiring or cords/chains)
-Leadbelcher (armor, helmets; majority of paint used)
-Mephiston Red (eyes, trim around sergeant's feathery hat, various ribbons)
-Loren Forest (sergeant's cloak only)
-Gehenna's Gold (detail inside the shoulder pads, rounds in the storm bolter magazines, various ribbons)
-Abaddon Black (joints, behind the knee pads)
-Caledor Sky (ribbons, and a little bit on the groove on the sergeant's weapon)
-Nuln Oil (final wash, all over)
-Athonian Camoshade* ^

9 paints and a wash per model. Now I get to do the same thing next month with some Grey Knight terminators :suicide:

*maybe? I think I accidentally switch the Nuln Oil and Athonian Camoshade at one point, or may have barely used the Athonian on one part of a model before switching back, I don't remember :(

crime fighting hog
Jun 29, 2006

I only pray, Heaven knows when to lift you out

Sole.Sushi posted:

About 45% Matte Medium, 10% Flow Improver, 45% Distilled Water. It's pretty much the APJ wash recipe, mixed up by eyeballing it. I've done some others with around the same ratio which work fine, so it doesn't need to be precise.

Looks like I'm going to Blick next time I take my love to town. Thank ya!

JoshTheStampede
Sep 8, 2004

come at me bro

Sole.Sushi posted:

About 45% Matte Medium, 10% Flow Improver, 45% Distilled Water. It's pretty much the APJ wash recipe, mixed up by eyeballing it. I've done some others with around the same ratio which work fine, so it doesn't need to be precise.

Les from APJ actually has an airbrush thinner recipe, but its similar enough to the wash recipe that I just use the same stock for both.

adamantium|wang
Sep 14, 2003

Missing you
Realllllllly loving that no matter how many times I heat it up and straighten it out the Force Rod on my Finecast Terminator Librarian keeps curving back again.

Hixson
Mar 27, 2009

adamantium|wang posted:

Realllllllly loving that no matter how many times I heat it up and straighten it out the Force Rod on my Finecast Terminator Librarian keeps curving back again.

I feel your pain.

I generally though most of the hate for fine cast was blown way out of proportion, as I got a few pretty decent kits.

But these finecast harlequins are loving terrible. Pits, awful mold lines, bent pieces, and smaller parts, ( fingers/fine details) just not there.

It's the worst.

WhiteOutMouse
Jul 29, 2010

:wom: will blow your mind.
If you got a bad cast then call GW and get more free casts.

With all the vitriol that people spew about hating GW, how evil they are and how they will do anything to not support them I'm surprised to see people refuse to make them accountable for mistakes and pass by the opportunity to pull from their profits directly by getting free product.

Call them and tell them your story. Don't email them or go into a GW store, just call them with that number on the top of their website. If you got the package still that's great so they can track the batch down with a code stamped on it, if not, no biggie.

WhiteOutMouse fucked around with this message at 07:40 on May 9, 2013

CyberLord XP
Oct 18, 2005

Goldie...She says her name is Goldie
Yeah, you are paying for GWs customer support. Use it!

Hixson
Mar 27, 2009

CyberLord XP posted:

Yeah, you are paying for GWs customer support. Use it!

WhiteOutMouse posted:

If you got a bad cast then call GW and get more free casts.

Ive called and gotten a replacement before, it was even an eBay order without a box or batch number!

They really do have great customer service. It'd just be nice to have my $40 box of dudes not be terrible the first time.

TarDolphinorShark
Sep 25, 2008

I have decided that this is the year I stop doing the bare minimum paint job and try to use what I've seen in this thread. So I stopped relying on washes and dips and did my first "fancy" paint job. I still have a lot of progress to make but I've been having a blast trying to get better. Here is a cross post from the oath thread.

TarDolphinorShark posted:

:siren: WIP PICS INCOMING :siren:

A lot of firsts for my first oath of the year. My first Space Marines, my first conversions with putty, My first edge highlighting, my first non "slap a few coats of paint on and dip/wash" paint job.

FRONT:


BACK:


These were some Space Marines I got from Cyberlord XP that I converted into plague marines. I wanted to go for a look of freshly infected rotten guys instead of the alternate armor I see the stock Plagues sport.

CyberLord XP
Oct 18, 2005

Goldie...She says her name is Goldie
Glad to see they went to a good home.

BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat
Speaking of better painting, I just bought 2 giant gently caress-off flood lamps so I can take good pictures and get painting critiques. I'm excited to learn how bad at painting I am!

JoshTheStampede
Sep 8, 2004

come at me bro

BULBASAUR posted:

Speaking of better painting, I just bought 2 giant gently caress-off flood lamps so I can take good pictures and get painting critiques. I'm excited to learn how bad at painting I am!

More accurately, you will find out how bad at photography you are.

Zhent
Oct 18, 2011

The difference between gods and daemons largely depends upon where one is standing at the time.

TarDolphinorShark posted:

These were some Space Marines I got from Cyberlord XP that I converted into plague marines. I wanted to go for a look of freshly infected rotten guys instead of the alternate armor I see the stock Plagues sport.

How did you model the plague-sections onto them? These look really good and I want to steal that effect.

TarDolphinorShark
Sep 25, 2008

I took the model and cut down the sections I was going to apply the putty to so it would not bulk out the mini too much. Then took a blob of putty and put it on. I took my flat silicone smoother and got all my fingerprints out and pushed it where I wanted it to go.

Then I took my rounded silicone shaper and lightly stippled it giving it a pretty good texture.

The silver side of the silicone shaper is a more circular rounded tip which I used to make the deeper pockets. I'll eventually fill those with glossy semi clear pus or green goop. I also made some horns and pustules with putty which I put in some of the deeper holes.

For the Barnacles I took the silver end again and pressed it into a ball of putty then gently reamed out the center until it looked more like a bowl.

Finally I stipled in some finer holes to give more texture with a needle shaper. I like to imagine those are where maggots and what not are digging in. Here are some of the tools I used to get a better idea.


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Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002

Grimey Drawer

JoshTheStampede posted:

More accurately, you will find out how bad at photography you are.

As someone continually owned by bad photos, this is a true statement.

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