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Just a quick heads up in regards to brushes. A while back I picked up a Raphael 8404 Kolinsky Sable brush (which are supposed to be right up there with the W&N Series 7) from Secret Weapon as well as a few random cheapies from Maelstrom before it shut down. One of these was a Creative Models Kolinsky Sable. The thing is, the two brushes are so similar that unless I double check the end of the brush I often don't notice which I have picked up. It looks like Wayland is now stocking them and they're still dirt cheap. Definitely worth a look if you're trying to save a few bucks.
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# ? May 8, 2013 19:00 |
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# ? Jun 8, 2024 09:22 |
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OneTrueBru posted:Worked well enough with my Deathwing termies. I airbrushed their armour, sprayed on some Pledge Multi-Surface Wax (apparently the UK's Klear-equivalent) and then pin-washed them with Raw Umber. I would maybe recommend buying a decent solvent for the oil; using cheapo DIY store white spirit, my wash looked fine while wet, but went a teensy bit patchy after drying. However, that may just have been due to me loving up and over-thinning everything. How did you paint the lenses? I want to do a similar lens color on my Tau.
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# ? May 8, 2013 19:15 |
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IrvingWashington posted:Okay, if I can achieve anything close to this with PledgeFutureMultiKlearWax then I'm convinced. I stand by Pledge for my glossing needs. It goes through my airbrush very well with no thinning needed, and it's pretty rock-hard as far as gloss is concerned. It's also really cheap--I got my bottle for about $7, and I'm betting it'll last me for years at this rate.
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# ? May 8, 2013 19:16 |
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Slimnoid posted:I stand by Pledge for my glossing needs. It goes through my airbrush very well with no thinning needed, and it's pretty rock-hard as far as gloss is concerned. It's also really cheap--I got my bottle for about $7, and I'm betting it'll last me for years at this rate. Can you link a picture of the Pledge you are speaking of? I'm pretty sure I'm thinking of something different. Also what is involved in cleaning the airbrush afterwards?
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# ? May 8, 2013 19:20 |
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Indolent Bastard posted:Can you link a picture of the Pledge you are speaking of? I'm pretty sure I'm thinking of something different. Also what is involved in cleaning the airbrush afterwards? Future Floor Wax is now called Pledge With Future Shine in the US. I think it's called Klear in the UK but it's all the same stuff. Consistency of water, smells chemical-fruity, and is made to be floor polish. Cleaning the brush is the same as cleaning paint out of it, I just use windex but any airbrush cleaner will do fine. Just clean it before it dries and you're fine.
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# ? May 8, 2013 19:25 |
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Indolent Bastard posted:Can you link a picture of the Pledge you are speaking of? I'm pretty sure I'm thinking of something different. Also what is involved in cleaning the airbrush afterwards? JoshTheStampede posted:Future Floor Wax is now called Pledge With Future Shine in the US. I think it's called Klear in the UK but it's all the same stuff. Consistency of water, smells chemical-fruity, and is made to be floor polish. What he said. Also, fun bonus fact! If you make a 50/50 mix of Pledge and water, you make a good thinner and flow aid combination. I've been using it with regular paint for a while, with some good results. I'd suggest putting the mix in a big bottle, with some of it in a dropper bottle for on-the-spot thinning.
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# ? May 8, 2013 19:31 |
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Dirty Job posted:How did you paint the lenses? I want to do a similar lens color on my Tau. They're cribbed from GW's Sicarius how-to, but with VGC colours - 1:1 Bloody red:black basecoat -> bloody red for the front 50% or so, with a little dab of hot orange as a highlight in the "tear duct" area -> thin line of sun yellow along the bottom of the lens, then highlight the very front of the line with 1:1 sun yellow:white. Then it's just the usual dot of white at the back. Indolent Bastard posted:Can you link a picture of the Pledge you are speaking of? I'm pretty sure I'm thinking of something different. Also what is involved in cleaning the airbrush afterwards? It's the very first image if you google "Pledge Multi Surface Wax" - white bottle, blue plastic cap, says 'The improved formula KLEAR is now...' on the label. Here's the company blurb, with a picture: http://www.scjohnson.co.uk/nqcontent.cfm?a_id=7864 The directions on the back recommend using dilute ammonia to remove the wax, but standard airbrush cleaner seems to handle things just fine. I have a big bottle of the Createx stuff, and while it's not fantastic, it does the job. Squiggly Beast fucked around with this message at 19:36 on May 8, 2013 |
# ? May 8, 2013 19:32 |
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Sculpting take two! I decided to sculpt from a design picture a friend of mine made. Even though his picture is infinitely more cute than my model I am pleased with how the sculpt turned out. I figure with a little paint to dress him up the SpaceCat it will look alright. In fact I'm currently building a small crew of SpaceCats for use in a homebrew skirmish game (and also as more practice sculpting since the large, rounded features of the model are beginner friendly) The inspiration for the SpaceCats goes back to high school. My artist pal and another close friend all used to doodle various cartoon animals having a kind of sci-fi war during our free time. Actually modeling old high school ideas is deeply satisfying. Here is a link to an old animated storyboard of the SpaceCats fighting SpaceRodents that my artist buddy made. I'd kill for his kind of talent, he is a professional designer/animator/artist http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWzu7t9J2Ww All credit goes to my friend, naturally. I'd love to sculpt up both sides to that storyboard.
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# ? May 8, 2013 19:43 |
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I know I'm late to the party, but I use Maimeri white spirit for my oil paints. Its really high quality stuff, but it has an odor and it costs more than Mona Lisa. I think the 'buy painted' guy uses it too.
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# ? May 8, 2013 20:08 |
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LumberingTroll posted:Progress update on my Firestorm Armada Sorylian fleet. Limp Wristed Limey posted:Still working on my hellbrute, got a few sessions to go yet. The gold should become darker after the oil wash:
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# ? May 8, 2013 20:16 |
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berzerkmonkey posted:I like them - I wasn't too keen on the orange before, but with the white, they look pretty sharp. Thanks! Yeah I was hesitant about the color as well, the white provides a nice contrast I think. I also think that the black pin washing will do a lot to break it up as there are tons of plates all over the surface of the ship. I also need to paint the windows, but am unsure what color to do them, I am thinking a shade of blue.
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# ? May 8, 2013 20:44 |
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Purgey posted:Sculpting take two! I decided to sculpt from a design picture a friend of mine made. What kind of tools are you using? I can't recommend clay shapers enough!
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# ? May 8, 2013 20:52 |
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OneTrueBru posted:It's the very first image if you google "Pledge Multi Surface Wax" - white bottle, blue plastic cap, says 'The improved formula KLEAR is now...' on the label. Here's the company blurb, with a picture: http://www.scjohnson.co.uk/nqcontent.cfm?a_id=7864 I have this kind (though it has a blue cap): I tried it out as a flow aid and it definitely left the models I painted with a glossier finish - that was at about a 10:1 ratio of water to Pledge. I'm pretty sure it was the only kind I could find via US Amazon at the time, but looking at the back there's a formula for vinyl tiles that might be better, no idea. It definitely smells like chemical fruit. Tastes weird though (old habits die hard even after years and years of not painting )
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# ? May 8, 2013 20:59 |
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HardCoil posted:What kind of tools are you using? I can't recommend clay shapers enough! I have a magnetized set of tools by Sculpey which includes two rubber headed shapers (one chisel, one rounded with a tip) a thin ball point metal poker, a large rounded metal head and a blade attachment. Last time I went to the art store I was hoping to find clay shapers but they had none except for that one set. I could order some online but... well,
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# ? May 8, 2013 21:27 |
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I got bored of not being able to get my thoughts onto my models and struggling to find good references so I made my own massive bundle. Disclaimer: I have no art on this, I use it purely to collect awesome pictures into. http://tassja.deviantart.com/favourites/ I have categories from buildings, armour, natural environments, different lighting effects to colour theory stuff etc. I use it in my regular artwork and also when I'm painting minis so hopefully some of you guys can find it useful. There's some awesome images on deviantart but it's a complete shithole to look through. I am using hundreds of pictures of baby tigers to help me design my tiger-stripe pattern for a phantom plane I'm painting
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# ? May 8, 2013 23:15 |
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Alright guys got a bit of an update on my side project... Badland Games Laser Cut Module Terrain - Sci-fi I have ordered my laser cutter, it will be delivered to my new house the first week of June. Pretty excited for this, as it will mean I start start prototyping these designs and making them much better. To go along with this I have also ordered 2 tons (4000lbs) of MDF, pre-cut for my lasers bed, at 24" x 18". As soon as I get everything setup I will be ready to start rolling. Project overview: I ordered a laser-cutter (derp) and in order to make some of the money back I want to run a Kickstarter to sell some of my modular terrain. It will be affordable for almost any wargamer and will provide a huge amount of flexibility. I am not looking to make a living off of this, just fund my hobby, this means I don't have to charge a lot. I have had some awesome suggestions about guaranteeing any future sales to any backed for a couple of years, then opening a small on demand web-site to sell more. I like this idea and will be looking into it for sure. It can't become a full time job for me as I own a small software development studio and that is my main focus (Badland Studio, Kinetic Void on steam etc) Here are some design shots from earlier in the thread, for those of you that have no clue what I am talking about. Wall sections are 3" tall and 6" long. These are not final designs, always open to suggestions I will also be working on a Grim Dark theme, and I would like to design some 15mm and 10mm WW2 and Scifi, possibly even 6mm (BattleTech and Epic40k) So yeah expect a lot of updates come mid mid June. Feedback and questions are always welcome.
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# ? May 8, 2013 23:25 |
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LumberingTroll posted:Laser Cutting This looks great so far, and I'm glad to see you're getting things underway. But, I have question: does your machine cut things other than wood? If so, what can it cut?
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# ? May 8, 2013 23:35 |
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Quick n dirty, gave airbrush blending my very first try and ya know, I'm pretty happy with the results. It's not as smooth as I like. I dropped the PSI to about 15, thinned it pretty good with Windex. Could I do better? How?
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# ? May 9, 2013 00:01 |
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Sole.Sushi posted:This looks great so far, and I'm glad to see you're getting things underway. But, I have question: does your machine cut things other than wood? If so, what can it cut? It should be able to work certain plastics.
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# ? May 9, 2013 00:20 |
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KamNZ posted:One of these was a Creative Models Kolinsky Sable. You mean Creative Mark? I recommended that brand of Kolinsky sable brushes some pages/months ago.
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# ? May 9, 2013 00:54 |
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Sole.Sushi posted:This looks great so far, and I'm glad to see you're getting things underway. But, I have question: does your machine cut things other than wood? If so, what can it cut? Wood, cardboard, paper, plastic, acrylic, can engrave/etch on metal, and glass. I am getting a high grade hepafilter with it so I can cut thing that would otherwise be unhealthy.
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# ? May 9, 2013 01:04 |
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crime fighting hog posted:It's not as smooth as I like. I dropped the PSI to about 15, thinned it pretty good with Windex. Could I do better? How? Don't thin with Windex, thin with water and matte medium to ensure smooth coats. I also add flow improver, but that's just to help prevent tip dry. LumberingTroll posted:Wood, cardboard, paper, plastic, acrylic, can engrave/etch on metal, and glass. I am getting a high grade hepafilter with it so I can cut thing that would otherwise be unhealthy. Cool, because my friend had an awesome idea for our Pathfinder games, by using a clear acrylic template for checking the areas for bursts and cones quick and easy. I'd imagine it'd be easy enough to make, and if you were able to, I'd love to pay you for it.
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# ? May 9, 2013 02:56 |
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Sole.Sushi posted:Don't thin with Windex, thin with water and matte medium to ensure smooth coats. I also add flow improver, but that's just to help prevent tip dry. You got a ratio on ya, sushi?
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# ? May 9, 2013 03:21 |
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Sole.Sushi posted:Don't thin with Windex, thin with water and matte medium to ensure smooth coats. I also add flow improver, but that's just to help prevent tip dry. Sure, send me a pm, or contact me on Skype: Sean.Pollman we can work something out. The more use I get out of it the better.
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# ? May 9, 2013 04:13 |
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crime fighting hog posted:You got a ratio on ya, sushi? About 45% Matte Medium, 10% Flow Improver, 45% Distilled Water. It's pretty much the APJ wash recipe, mixed up by eyeballing it. I've done some others with around the same ratio which work fine, so it doesn't need to be precise.
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# ? May 9, 2013 04:23 |
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Crosspost from the Oath thread, I just finished my last 3 Deathwing Terminators. The final result: I feel like I went a little heavy with the wash on the sergeant, but I was starting to get tired of painting him and just wanted to be finished. I'll do it again here shortly with some Grey Knight terminators I just got, so there's always that to look forward to Icon Of Sin posted:Oath complete!
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# ? May 9, 2013 04:44 |
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Sole.Sushi posted:About 45% Matte Medium, 10% Flow Improver, 45% Distilled Water. It's pretty much the APJ wash recipe, mixed up by eyeballing it. I've done some others with around the same ratio which work fine, so it doesn't need to be precise. Looks like I'm going to Blick next time I take my love to town. Thank ya!
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# ? May 9, 2013 04:47 |
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Sole.Sushi posted:About 45% Matte Medium, 10% Flow Improver, 45% Distilled Water. It's pretty much the APJ wash recipe, mixed up by eyeballing it. I've done some others with around the same ratio which work fine, so it doesn't need to be precise. Les from APJ actually has an airbrush thinner recipe, but its similar enough to the wash recipe that I just use the same stock for both.
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# ? May 9, 2013 04:47 |
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Realllllllly loving that no matter how many times I heat it up and straighten it out the Force Rod on my Finecast Terminator Librarian keeps curving back again.
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# ? May 9, 2013 05:30 |
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adamantium|wang posted:Realllllllly loving that no matter how many times I heat it up and straighten it out the Force Rod on my Finecast Terminator Librarian keeps curving back again. I feel your pain. I generally though most of the hate for fine cast was blown way out of proportion, as I got a few pretty decent kits. But these finecast harlequins are loving terrible. Pits, awful mold lines, bent pieces, and smaller parts, ( fingers/fine details) just not there. It's the worst.
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# ? May 9, 2013 06:22 |
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If you got a bad cast then call GW and get more free casts. With all the vitriol that people spew about hating GW, how evil they are and how they will do anything to not support them I'm surprised to see people refuse to make them accountable for mistakes and pass by the opportunity to pull from their profits directly by getting free product. Call them and tell them your story. Don't email them or go into a GW store, just call them with that number on the top of their website. If you got the package still that's great so they can track the batch down with a code stamped on it, if not, no biggie. WhiteOutMouse fucked around with this message at 07:40 on May 9, 2013 |
# ? May 9, 2013 07:11 |
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Yeah, you are paying for GWs customer support. Use it!
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# ? May 9, 2013 12:19 |
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CyberLord XP posted:Yeah, you are paying for GWs customer support. Use it! WhiteOutMouse posted:If you got a bad cast then call GW and get more free casts. Ive called and gotten a replacement before, it was even an eBay order without a box or batch number! They really do have great customer service. It'd just be nice to have my $40 box of dudes not be terrible the first time.
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# ? May 9, 2013 17:39 |
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I have decided that this is the year I stop doing the bare minimum paint job and try to use what I've seen in this thread. So I stopped relying on washes and dips and did my first "fancy" paint job. I still have a lot of progress to make but I've been having a blast trying to get better. Here is a cross post from the oath thread.TarDolphinorShark posted:WIP PICS INCOMING These were some Space Marines I got from Cyberlord XP that I converted into plague marines. I wanted to go for a look of freshly infected rotten guys instead of the alternate armor I see the stock Plagues sport.
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# ? May 9, 2013 19:31 |
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Glad to see they went to a good home.
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# ? May 9, 2013 19:39 |
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Speaking of better painting, I just bought 2 giant gently caress-off flood lamps so I can take good pictures and get painting critiques. I'm excited to learn how bad at painting I am!
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# ? May 9, 2013 19:48 |
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BULBASAUR posted:Speaking of better painting, I just bought 2 giant gently caress-off flood lamps so I can take good pictures and get painting critiques. I'm excited to learn how bad at painting I am! More accurately, you will find out how bad at photography you are.
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# ? May 9, 2013 19:52 |
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TarDolphinorShark posted:These were some Space Marines I got from Cyberlord XP that I converted into plague marines. I wanted to go for a look of freshly infected rotten guys instead of the alternate armor I see the stock Plagues sport. How did you model the plague-sections onto them? These look really good and I want to steal that effect.
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# ? May 9, 2013 20:35 |
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I took the model and cut down the sections I was going to apply the putty to so it would not bulk out the mini too much. Then took a blob of putty and put it on. I took my flat silicone smoother and got all my fingerprints out and pushed it where I wanted it to go. Then I took my rounded silicone shaper and lightly stippled it giving it a pretty good texture. The silver side of the silicone shaper is a more circular rounded tip which I used to make the deeper pockets. I'll eventually fill those with glossy semi clear pus or green goop. I also made some horns and pustules with putty which I put in some of the deeper holes. For the Barnacles I took the silver end again and pressed it into a ball of putty then gently reamed out the center until it looked more like a bowl. Finally I stipled in some finer holes to give more texture with a needle shaper. I like to imagine those are where maggots and what not are digging in. Here are some of the tools I used to get a better idea.
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# ? May 9, 2013 21:03 |
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# ? Jun 8, 2024 09:22 |
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JoshTheStampede posted:More accurately, you will find out how bad at photography you are. As someone continually owned by bad photos, this is a true statement.
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# ? May 9, 2013 21:52 |