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daslog posted:Are you sure? When I did my 99 RS side molding removal, I had to weld in the holes the clips left behind. I don't know from personal experience, but everything I've read indicates that 2008+ are for sure 3M tape only. Automotive adhesives have gotten a lot better since the '90s.
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# ? May 8, 2013 20:37 |
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# ? May 13, 2024 10:20 |
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Could someone with a GD or GG Impreza do me a favor and measure the panel gap between their driver side doors? The spot where I have 8mm indicated here:
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# ? May 8, 2013 23:29 |
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blk posted:Could someone with a GD or GG Impreza do me a favor and measure the panel gap between their driver side doors? The spot where I have 8mm indicated here: 5mm on mine.
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# ? May 8, 2013 23:40 |
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Amandyke posted:5mm on mine. Even measured with a JDM ruler.
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# ? May 9, 2013 01:11 |
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blk posted:The Saabaru is driving me nuts. Had door replaced after someone hit it while parked. Made wind noise afterwards at freeway speeds here: The noise might actually be coming from the gusset inside the side mirror mount being loose. Try rolling the affected window down (I assume this is a front door), and squeeze both sides of the triangular piece the side mirror mounts onto together with a vice grip or something. Leave the pressure on the part for about 10 seconds, then release it and roll the window back up. My Forester had the exact same problem, and clamping the mirror mount completely eliminated the noise.
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# ? May 9, 2013 01:44 |
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azflyboy posted:The noise might actually be coming from the gusset inside the side mirror mount being loose. I'm hearing the noise near the B pillar, though, not the A pillar - is that where you heard it?
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# ? May 9, 2013 17:10 |
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blk posted:
If that's you, it made it to the front page of 9GAG and is now safely a Internet Meme.
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# ? May 10, 2013 01:11 |
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In the last 2 days I've gotten all my fluids changed, an alarm installed, and a new deck Car is officially feeling like I own it now.
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# ? May 10, 2013 02:40 |
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My front driver side turn signal is going out on my 2010 WRX. It seems the easiest way to get to it is to remove the battery, is this true? I've also seen mentioned to remove the fender liner, or to remove the bumper cover and headlight, but both seem like more of a hassle.
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# ? May 10, 2013 04:26 |
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I think I screwed up my rebuild at some point, because my EJ25 SOHC is slowly consuming Engine Coolant. It's about 2 pints of coolant per 300 miles. As far as I can tell, it is not consuming Oil. I have always thought I screwed something up because of the amount of white smoke which has seemed slightly excessive, but I was thinking could be because I have no Cats. My initial thought is that it's probably one of the headgaskets that I put on wrong? Is there a good way to diagnose this?
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# ? May 10, 2013 12:02 |
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daslog posted:I think I screwed up my rebuild at some point, because my EJ25 SOHC is slowly consuming Engine Coolant. It's about 2 pints of coolant per 300 miles. As far as I can tell, it is not consuming Oil. I have always thought I screwed something up because of the amount of white smoke which has seemed slightly excessive, but I was thinking could be because I have no Cats. You can pressure test the cooling system, if you drop pressure than you have a leak and if its not visible it could be caused by your head gaskets.
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# ? May 10, 2013 15:42 |
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My MY13 wrx just ticked over 3k miles and I'm looking to do an oil change. I've always ran Mobil 1 in my Volkswagens but after looking at some DIYs on NASOIC and ClubWRX it seems as if the second Mobil 1 hits my engine it will force my connecting rods to shoot out into orbit and then possibly kick my dog. Anyone have any suggestions on oil? Also, I read that there is a crush gasket on the drain plug, where would I get another one of these, the dealership? Is it advisable to use a Subaru OEM oil filter too?
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# ? May 10, 2013 18:36 |
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Crush washer from the dealer, I always just buy a couple at a time and keep one on my keychain. Shell rotella T is pretty popular, but any synthetic 5w40 would work including mobil 1.daslog posted:I think I screwed up my rebuild at some point, because my EJ25 SOHC is slowly consuming Engine Coolant. It's about 2 pints of coolant per 300 miles. As far as I can tell, it is not consuming Oil. I have always thought I screwed something up because of the amount of white smoke which has seemed slightly excessive, but I was thinking could be because I have no Cats. If a headgasket was on wrong you would have bigger problems because the oil passage to the head would be blocked off.
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# ? May 10, 2013 19:06 |
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jamal posted:If a headgasket was on wrong you would have bigger problems because the oil passage to the head would be blocked off. That was my thought as well, not to mention I don't see any white smoke anymore. I tried a new Radiator cap. Any ideas where to look?
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# ? May 10, 2013 19:56 |
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Last time I hit the dealer looking for crush washers they just handed me whatever the guy could scoop out of the box with one hand and filled a bag. Then he charged me for five washers.
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# ? May 10, 2013 20:06 |
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daslog posted:That was my thought as well, not to mention I don't see any white smoke anymore. I tried a new Radiator cap. Any ideas where to look? Do you think it could be air in the cooling system? Did you burp it at all?
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# ? May 10, 2013 20:12 |
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Yeah, like yakattak said make sure it's fully bled. It always takes me awhile to get all the air out. Then pressure test the cooling system.
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# ? May 10, 2013 20:18 |
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Mikemo Tyson posted:My MY13 wrx just ticked over 3k miles and I'm looking to do an oil change. I've always ran Mobil 1 in my Volkswagens but after looking at some DIYs on NASOIC and ClubWRX it seems as if the second Mobil 1 hits my engine it will force my connecting rods to shoot out into orbit and then possibly kick my dog. Anyone have any suggestions on oil? Also, I read that there is a crush gasket on the drain plug, where would I get another one of these, the dealership? Is it advisable to use a Subaru OEM oil filter too? There's a mail in rebate on Pennzoil Platinum right now, which people seem to think is pretty decent. http://www.pennzoil.com/diy-rebate/ An OEM filter probably requires the least amount of thought. I've been reading about filters all day, and it's all a big mystery. Some people blame improper filters for premature turbo failure due to either different bypass pressure, or lack of anti-drainback valve. Bypass pressure valve exists to protect the filter medium. If there is a pressure buildup due to huge flow requirements, or if the medium is clogged, the bypass valve will open and let the oil flow uninterrupted. I can't find a reasoning for whether or not a higher or lower bypass pressure is better or worse than stock. The anti-drainback valve keeps oil from draining back out of the filter when the engine is not running. If there is oil in the filter, the engine will receive lubrication more quickly at startup. This shouldn't matter if your filter screws in from the bottom with the holes facing up. This is important if your filter sits on top or maybe sideways. While I really would like to know if the bypass pressure matters, ultimately an OEM filter requires less thought.
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# ? May 10, 2013 20:20 |
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jamal posted:Yeah, like yakattak said make sure it's fully bled. It always takes me awhile to get all the air out. Then pressure test the cooling system. It's definitely bled. I suppose I need a special tool for the pressure test?
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# ? May 10, 2013 20:30 |
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My OEM filters came with drain plug gaskets too, so that's another plus. They also have markings on the side so you know how much to turn (which is 7/8 and not 3/4, because they have to be special snowflakes I guess).
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# ? May 10, 2013 20:33 |
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Mikemo Tyson posted:My MY13 wrx just ticked over 3k miles and I'm looking to do an oil change. I've always ran Mobil 1 in my Volkswagens but after looking at some DIYs on NASOIC and ClubWRX it seems as if the second Mobil 1 hits my engine it will force my connecting rods to shoot out into orbit and then possibly kick my dog. Anyone have any suggestions on oil? Also, I read that there is a crush gasket on the drain plug, where would I get another one of these, the dealership? Is it advisable to use a Subaru OEM oil filter too? I used the Subaru factory 5w-30 synthetic purely to stop them having an excuse if any warranty issues came up, ditto for the filter. People will get antsy about its performance over time but if you change it at say 5k miles, you'll be fine. fredbeansparts has both.
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# ? May 10, 2013 21:06 |
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sanchez posted:I used the Subaru factory 5w-30 synthetic purely to stop them having an excuse if any warranty issues came up, ditto for the filter. People will get antsy about its performance over time but if you change it at say 5k miles, you'll be fine. fredbeansparts has both. Well technically they can't use that as an excuse for warranty issues due to federal law. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson%E2%80%93Moss_Warranty_Act http://www.accessconnect.com/aftermarket-parts-warranty.htm posted:The essence of the law concerning new aftermarket auto parts is that a vehicle manufacturer may not condition a written or implied warranty on the consumers using parts or services which are identified by brand, trade, or corporate name (such as the vehicle maker's brand) unless the parts or service are provided free of charge. The law means that the use of an automotive aftermarket part alone is not cause for denying the warranty. However, the law's protection does not extend to aftermarket parts in situations where such parts actually caused the damage being claimed under the warranty. Subaru can't require you use their parts. But if your aftermarket filter can be shown to have failed and caused the issue, then you'll have to take it up with Fram/Purolator/Wix/ACDelco/what-have-you.
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# ? May 10, 2013 21:16 |
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daslog posted:It's definitely bled. I suppose I need a special tool for the pressure test? Yeah, my tuner didn't even charge me for it the last two times, depends on the mechanic though.
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# ? May 10, 2013 22:36 |
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There are a couple reasons for sticking to the stock specs for filter bypass pressure. If the new filter you buy has a lower rating, then oil will bypass the filter more often (read: starting at a lower engine speed) which is clearly not good from an engine longevity standpoint. If the bypass pressure rating is too high, it means that the filter will remain a restriction to the oiling circuit at a higher engine speed than Subaru engineers deemed ideal. If a filter is “after” the pump but “before” the lubrication points, this would lead to lower oil pressure at bearings, etc. than Subaru wants, which is probably not good. Now, would this matter in practice? Probably negligible. That said, I buy the factory filters. The Mazda RX-8 filters are superior and match the STi filter bypass pressure rating, but they are also larger and as a result I have not yet convinced myself that I want to do that.
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# ? May 10, 2013 22:48 |
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FogHelmut posted:Well technically they can't use that as an excuse for warranty issues due to federal law. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson%E2%80%93Moss_Warranty_Act No, Subaru can't require you to use their parts. However, 5w30 synthetic is the ONLY permitted oil weight given in the owner's manual. Using 5w40 is the incorrect weight and could be grounds for denying a warranty claim. It doesn't have anything to do with the brand, it's outside the given specifications for maintenance. You would be in the clear warranty wise to run any 5w30 synth you want. However, 5w40 is a risk if they ever ask to see your receipts and don't feel like paying out.
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# ? May 10, 2013 22:54 |
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My WRX got rear ended this afternoon in a left turn lane at a red light. Very slow speed and not much visible damage. The other driver spoke no english and wanted to pay me cash for my trouble. I have seen enough nightmare stories on here to insist on getting insurance and doing it legit. Insurance was notified so I can have a body shop take a look. Is there a possibility of a cracked bumper internally? Externally there is just some scuffing (inch or so) on the plastic which I am not really concerned about. The car has about 90K on it, so there are some scars already there I don't care about anymore.
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# ? May 10, 2013 23:39 |
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If it was just a love tap that scarred the rear bumper cover, chances are that you haven't severely damaged the bumper cover inside. I would still get a body shop to look over it to make sure everything is fine and that the exhaust tip hasn't been damaged (potentially causing an exhaust leak by having the exhaust absorb the impact against its own gaskets and mounts). It sounds like it will be alright. Speaking as someone who has jumped up and down on a front bumper taken off of a Corolla they are frighteningly tough to internal stress fractures. I've only ever seen bumpers crack here from love taps in -30'C weather; the entire paint comes flying off in a spectacular shards-of-glass display along the fracture. The scuff might be able to be taken off with rubbing compound. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 23:53 on May 10, 2013 |
# ? May 10, 2013 23:51 |
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Seat Safety Switch posted:If it was just a love tap that scarred the rear bumper cover, chances are that you haven't severely damaged the bumper cover inside. I would still get a body shop to look over it to make sure everything is fine and that the exhaust tip hasn't been damaged (potentially causing an exhaust leak by having the exhaust absorb the impact against its own gaskets and mounts). It sounds like it will be alright. Good to know, I had not thought about the potential exhaust issue. I don't really care about the scratch, there are plenty of others already.
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# ? May 10, 2013 23:56 |
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My girlfriend and I just joined the Subaru family. Again for me. My first car was an '89 XT that died a premature death due to my lovely driving and I've loved the goofy things ever since. We cashed in her problem child '08 Focus for a lovely '10 Legacy 2.5 premium. Its pretty much poverty spec aside from the CVT flappy paddle gearbox. Very comfortable and very big inside. Compared to my GTP I've decided that for a car of roughly the same outer dimensions its a lot cushier, quieter and more spacious than my old poncho. The Pontiac is definitely the faster car but this Legacy is really fun to drive. I've been officially banned from driving it since she seems to hate it when I flog it through the gears with the flappy paddles. She doesn't seem to acknowledge that they are there. Oh well. For routine maintenance purposes I'm curious if anyone else has one of these. I've changed the oil in a '12 Forester with a 2.5. That car had the oil filter right on top and the drain front and center. On this Legacy the filter isn't on top and I haven't looked under the car yet. Any quick oil change and basic maintenance tips would be welcome. This is such a big upgrade from that Focus. Now I just have to wait for the newness to wear off so I can drive it more.
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# ? May 11, 2013 01:51 |
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Grumbletron 4000 posted:Its pretty much poverty spec aside from the CVT flappy paddle gearbox. Did you just want to be Jeremy Clarkson for a minute to say that quote or do they actually simulate gear shifts on their CVT and give it paddle shifters?
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# ? May 11, 2013 02:34 |
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They actually shift between six pre-determined ratios with the paddles. And, believe it or not, "flappy paddle gearbox" is one of the most common terms for paddle shifters, and it predates Clarkson saying it on Top Gear by a bit (though he is what caused the term to be drilled into my head, I'll admit).
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# ? May 11, 2013 02:36 |
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I was under the impression that the term started with top gear. In any case I just like referring to paddle shifters as flappy paddles no matter what the application. Its just fun to say. This CVT in this car does use the paddles to simulate gears though. Its only really practical to use for keeping the car at a speed for descending hills as far as I can tell. Besides that its just plain fun.
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# ? May 11, 2013 02:47 |
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Grumbletron 4000 posted:I was under the impression that the term started with top gear. In any case I just like referring to paddle shifters as flappy paddles no matter what the application. Its just fun to say. We rented a newer Outback once, of course I had to go WOT and crank through the gears. Hey, its a rental.
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# ? May 11, 2013 03:28 |
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Do new Subarus still have frameless doors?
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# ? May 11, 2013 03:35 |
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blk posted:Do new Subarus still have frameless doors? No. That ended when the GD chassis ended.
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# ? May 11, 2013 03:39 |
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The BRZ has frameless windows and a pretty ritzy power window popper/dropper when you open/close the door. However, the Impreza, Legacy, and Forester no longer have frameless windows AFAIK.
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# ? May 11, 2013 03:44 |
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It's honestly a good thing, although I like the cleanness of frameless doors, the wind hits my door and smashes it into my car with ease. Also any lumbering oaf friends always slam the doors, by closing them like a normal person.
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# ? May 11, 2013 03:52 |
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Our new Legacy as well as the sister in law's forester have framed doors. Even my GTP has frames I don't see a downside to this. All of my cars that I've had with frameless doors have been leaky howling messes. Good riddance. Until I find my unobtanium '88 Monte Carlo SS with fully functional seals and airtite T-tops. I will continitue to love my old GTP and its very well done door seals.
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# ? May 11, 2013 05:04 |
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blk posted:I'm hearing the noise near the B pillar, though, not the A pillar - is that where you heard it? In my case, the noise seemed to be coming from both the A and B pillars (it was loud enough I couldn't narrow it down specifically). From what I can tell, that gusset works lose from people applying pressure to the glass when opening/closing the door, and it seems to allow the entire window to flex enough to break the seals at the A and B pillars. You can also try buying some small diameter plastic tubing and inserting it into the weatherstripping around the window frame (I'm assuming the Saabaru uses similar rubber stripping to the Forester), since that can also seal the gap with the window enough to cut the noise down.
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# ? May 11, 2013 06:26 |
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# ? May 13, 2024 10:20 |
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Since spring has finally arrived to the east side of the rockies, and in preparation for the upcoming 2200 mile road trip, it's time for a little maintenance on the STI. Brake Pads Plugs Hoping the plugs will clear up a little misfire at idle; it starts fine and sounds fine when cold, but after warming up a bit, I get a stumble every few seconds and it drives me nuts. Hopefully the pads will give me a little more bite on the braking. I'm not sure what kind are on it now, but they aren't the stockers. I drove an E30 and a Hyundai Elantra on a trip last month both had better stopping feel than my STI, which is sad.
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# ? May 11, 2013 16:04 |