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There some magic standard frame sliders go by? Looking for some fancy ones to put on my first Gen versys. Also, are axle sliders worth getting?
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May 13, 2013 20:05
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| # ? Jun 1, 2024 02:41 |
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^^^^ Axle sliders, yes, frame sliders depend on where you can mount them and a couple of other things. What bike are those cam pics from?
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May 13, 2013 20:06
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It's a 2009 ER6. It had been sat for a good 3-4 months before I rode it again and the oil was looking awful so I changed it but it still looked a bit milky even after the oil change. I suspect that it's just condensation from having been sat outside in freezing cold weather. I tested the coolant, the pH and hydrocarbons are fine and it's not losing oil/coolant so I don't think there's a head leak. I decided to open it up to do the valves and have a closer look. Everything seems fine but it looks like it might have suffered oil starvation at some point.
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May 13, 2013 20:51
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Z3n posted:^^^^ Axle sliders, yes, frame sliders depend on where you can mount them and a couple of other things. Good to know. I had aluminum frame sliders on my bike but I'm looking for new ones after a crash last week. slider snapped off and didn't protect the bike at all so I'm looking for plastic ones. I want to get Puig Pro Frame Sliders but they're marketed for the second gen, but research shows most sliders for the Versys work on both generations. I can get these that are the same style though for $20 more. The aluminum sliders fit directly into the frame, you can sorta see them in this shot:  I can't seem to find any sliders that mount the same way, but that method sucks as the slider snapped off and marred the frame a bit. Also, are there radiator guards that would prevent this from happening? 
Ashex fucked around with this message at 21:42 on May 13, 2013 |
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May 13, 2013 21:37
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So my 2001 Suzuki Bandit 1200 doesn't allow for me to two-finger clutch because the friction zone is pretty wide- almost immediately from the bar. What are my options for adjusting this to be in line with other bikes? I flushed my clutch fluid and ajudsted my ASV levers all the way out but neither helped. Z3n speculated it could be the master cylinder having excess wear. Bike has 65kish miles. Thoughts? Also, what are my options for upgrades if this is the case?
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May 13, 2013 21:42
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Xovaan posted:So my 2001 Suzuki Bandit 1200 doesn't allow for me to two-finger clutch because the friction zone is pretty wide- almost immediately from the bar. What are my options for adjusting this to be in line with other bikes? I flushed my clutch fluid and ajudsted my ASV levers all the way out but neither helped. Z3n speculated it could be the master cylinder having excess wear. Bike has 65kish miles. Thoughts? I dont know the answer to your question, but get another Bandit master if you do it, they are sized to go with the slave, and when they are working right (which is in my experience 100% of the time) they are flawless
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May 13, 2013 22:12
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How would a whole new master compare to getting a rebuild kit? They can be sourced for ~$40 on eBay but I'm not sure if I trust it over OEM. Also, when bleeding my clutch, does it matter if I pump the clutch while the bleeder is closed, since it's just pushing against the clutch spring, disallowing excess pressure buildup anyway?
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May 13, 2013 22:19
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Xovaan posted:So my 2001 Suzuki Bandit 1200 doesn't allow for me to two-finger clutch because the friction zone is pretty wide- almost immediately from the bar. What are my options for adjusting this to be in line with other bikes? I flushed my clutch fluid and ajudsted my ASV levers all the way out but neither helped. Z3n speculated it could be the master cylinder having excess wear. Bike has 65kish miles. Thoughts? In terms of upgrades: Have you already tried putting in heavier clutch springs, your bike is pretty tuned up isnt it so ti probably already has? Drag racers and tuners swap in the gsxr1100 clutch as it has more surface area on the friction plates and less likely to break under load. Tuned bandits tend to eat the stock clutch as its undersized for the amount of torque the bike has. its a reasonably straight swap (thanks to the fact that suzukis are like lego) http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42931 http://www.streetfighters.com.au/blogs/entry.php?37-How-to-quot-Convert-a-Diaphragm-clutch-unit-to-a-Coil-Spring-Clutch-unit-quot edit: these guys sell a heavier clutch kit for the stock unit as well as parts for the gsxr upgrade http://www.debben.co.uk/acatalog/N1200.html echomadman fucked around with this message at 22:35 on May 13, 2013 |
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May 13, 2013 22:25
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Yeah, it's pretty heavily tuned and the clutch that was in it was pretty fried when I bought it. The bike came with a stock clutch new in box so Z3n installed it within the year. I still can't clutchless upshift into 5th when hooning it because it slips, but other than that it seems to be all right. I'm gonna ride this one until it burns out and do the GSXR clutch swap, but hopefully that won't be for at least another 20k miles (or more, since I am pretty conservative with riding). I just re-bled my clutch right now and found a few air bubbles in the line. I'm gonna take it for a spin and see if the friction zone is any different. I'm just wondering how the bubbles are getting in there in the first place since Moto and I were pretty careful bleeding it the first time. I'm assuming bubbles are stemming likely from either the master cylinder needing a rebuild, banjo bolts not tightened enough on the stainless lines, or stagnant bubbles in the line, which in the latter would call for a reverse bleed to tap out the remainder of the bubbles. Also my valve cover is still leaking so I think I might need a new one.  
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May 13, 2013 23:20
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So my engine blew up at the track today. Pretty sure something very bad with a valve. It makes a loud tapping sound when it runs, blows black smoke when it revs, and won't idle more than a few seconds. The guy who runs the local shop gave it a quick listen and was like "Yup, that's a valve, probably a stuck valve." He also said that these bikes tend to blow up around 30k miles, and this bike is at 35k. He said that he wouldn't even do the head work, cause it would be cheaper to just get a used engine off a crashed bike. He also said that buying a used head was a bad idea, because I'd just have the same problem happen again. I can do all the wrenching work myself, but I have to shop out any machine work. So the question is which option do I go with? * Send the head out to be rebuilt and have all the valves & seats replaced * Wait till a complete engine pops up on ebay/salvage/craigslist * Wait till a complete head with valves and not too many miles pops up on ebay/slavage/craigslist * Part out the bike * Sell the whole bike as-is Edit: It's a 2005 R6, dunno if that matters. Mr. Eric Praline fucked around with this message at 00:05 on May 14, 2013 |
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May 14, 2013 00:03
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How deep are you into the bike and does it have any nice mods/do you want to keep it? If you want to keep it, find a complete engine. If you don't, part it.
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May 14, 2013 00:08
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Ashex posted:slider woes From what I hear, sliders are really only useful from protecting bodywork when you drop a bike either while standing still or while moving really slow. They are never really robust enough (and neither is the area they're bolted onto at the frame) for dealing with the stresses of a high speed crash.
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May 14, 2013 00:12
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Mr. Eric Praline posted:So my engine blew up at the track today. Pretty sure something very bad with a valve. It makes a loud tapping sound when it runs, blows black smoke when it revs, and won't idle more than a few seconds. Sup fellow blown motor at a trackday buddy. I'm with z3n, buy a used engine in swap it in... I did the same and I've got a trackday and 3k miles on it so far.
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May 14, 2013 00:16
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I'm only around $2500 into it if you don't count tires, so it's not a huge loss. I don't care about the bike itself. Only thing I'd keep is the $500 worth of steering damper. I'm mostly just not sure what the best bang/buck is going to be, when the goal is to have a reliable track bike as cheaply as possible.
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May 14, 2013 00:18
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M42 posted:From what I hear, sliders are really only useful from protecting bodywork when you drop a bike either while standing still or while moving really slow. They are never really robust enough (and neither is the area they're bolted onto at the frame) for dealing with the stresses of a high speed crash. Good to know, sounds like what I really want are crash bars and those run $200-300 
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May 14, 2013 00:50
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^^^ Crash bars are good, but a combo of bar end and axle sliders will probably do you just fine. Mr. Eric Praline posted:I'm only around $2500 into it if you don't count tires, so it's not a huge loss. I don't care about the bike itself. Only thing I'd keep is the $500 worth of steering damper. Depends on the availability of stuff in your area and what the mod list is like - how nicely set up is the bike suspension-wise and otherwise?
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May 14, 2013 00:51
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Z3n posted:Depends on the availability of stuff in your area and what the mod list is like - how nicely set up is the bike suspension-wise and otherwise? Ebay looks like I can land a complete engine (eventually) for around $1500-1700. Sounds like you aren't recommending having the head rebuilt, I'm guessing it's just an expensive thing to do. I was hoping it would only run a few hundred bucks.
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May 14, 2013 00:59
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M42 posted:From what I hear, sliders are really only useful from protecting bodywork when you drop a bike either while standing still or while moving really slow. They are never really robust enough (and neither is the area they're bolted onto at the frame) for dealing with the stresses of a high speed crash. If you go down slow, the sliders may protect your fuel tank and bodywork. If you go down fast, your bodywork may be toast but the sliders may be enough to protect your crankcase. It's the difference between riding home with some rash and a vise grip as a clutch lever and watching a tow truck pick your dead bike out of a puddle of its own fluids. Sure, they may bend your frame (this varies widely from bike to bike and slider implementation) but a bad enough wreck may bend your frame anyway. I'm pro-slider for all but the corniest implementations.
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May 14, 2013 01:04
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Mr. Eric Praline posted:Looks like the market's kinda flooded with running 03-05 R6's for ~3000, so it's unlikely that I could do much with a full bike sale, so that option's eliminated. Only mod on my bike is a Micron exhaust. Everything else is stock. The problem with having the head rebuilt is that it's often not just the head that's taken a beating. If the valve dropped and got slammed back up into the head, you've probably scored the crank and destroyed that piston and conrod, especially if you ran it after the fact. So you could spend a few hundred bucks and get everything rebuilt, have a perfect head, and then have the crank bearing go and destroy the top end all over again. Plus you probably have poo poo in your oil that's torn up your bearings. If you really want a trackbike, I'd probably throw it up on craigslist for 2k or so as is, sell it for anything over 1500 bucks, and then take the 1500 you would have spent and buy a new, fully prepped and ready to go trackbike. You can get nice early model supersports with nice mods for 2-4k out here. Snowdens Secret posted:If you go down slow, the sliders may protect your fuel tank and bodywork. If you go down fast, your bodywork may be toast but the sliders may be enough to protect your crankcase. It's the difference between riding home with some rash and a vise grip as a clutch lever and watching a tow truck pick your dead bike out of a puddle of its own fluids. Sure, they may bend your frame (this varies widely from bike to bike and slider implementation) but a bad enough wreck may bend your frame anyway. I should take a picture of the Triumph's frame sliders, they're the best design I've seen. The biggest thing is not using the engine bolts as the slider points. The slider should attach to a bracket that is mounted off of the engine mounts, otherwise you end up with thrashed motor mounts. For track bikes, your sliders should go under the fairings to prevent them from digging in and destroying frame mounts or thrashing the bike. At any real speed, you want case protectors, bar end sliders, axle sliders, and other things that won't bend a motor bolt. There's a reason dedicated race bikes run case savers and not sliders, or they run their sliders under their fairings.
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May 14, 2013 01:39
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Frame sliders make a good footrest.
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May 14, 2013 01:43
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Pope Mobile posted:Frame sliders make a good footrest. On long trips on my SV, I can swing my feet up to the frame sliders in front to sit in a cruiser-like position.
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May 14, 2013 02:02
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Z3n posted:I should take a picture of the Triumph's frame sliders, they're the best design I've seen. The biggest thing is not using the engine bolts as the slider points. The slider should attach to a bracket that is mounted off of the engine mounts, otherwise you end up with thrashed motor mounts. For track bikes, your sliders should go under the fairings to prevent them from digging in and destroying frame mounts or thrashing the bike. At any real speed, you want case protectors, bar end sliders, axle sliders, and other things that won't bend a motor bolt. There's a reason dedicated race bikes run case savers and not sliders, or they run their sliders under their fairings. GBRacing ones? that's what I've got, looks like this:  Pic is of a street triple purely to show the frame sliders There's a photo out there somewhere of the aftermath from using a single bolt slider, where the slider bent back and punctured the head. theperminator fucked around with this message at 03:06 on May 14, 2013 |
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May 14, 2013 03:00
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alk4life posted:Thanks a lot Kilersquirrel. You were right on the money with the snap ring pliers. I got everything installed and there is no more play in the spline shaft. I put the starter back on the bike, but when I tried to start I just heard the armature spin really fast. The starter wasn't turning the engine. Ugh, I'll bench test and tear it apart again tomorrow to see what I did wrong. Anytime, though dude: it's a bearing, not a bushing. Bushings are cylinders(in general) of solid material, bearings are 2 concentric rings of material with rolling components between them that support a spinning cylinder's lateral loads. They can be sealed or not. I was actually somewhat confused in the original album because of the lighting, thought it was very strange to put a bushing where a bearing would normally go and the fiche really didn't clear anything up since you can't just buy those pieces. Unless you put the little planetary gears back in wrong, you probably didn't pop the starter back into place correctly when reinserting. Try advancing the terminal drive by 1/8 turn or so, then try to reinsert slowly and firmly, wobble it around gently if you feel some teeth meshing. It's a bit of an art, don't expect to get it on the first try when you're new to it. Also those seals are the key to keeping oil out, that bearing you have isn't sealed at all. When you need to swap them in the future (if you didn't do this in the first place) rent a seal driver from Advance/Autozone/etc and use the right tool to do the job right, the first time. It's free, you just put a deposit on the tool and return it before 30 days is out. I tried to be all McGyver installing the first seal I ever tried (getting creating with socket wrenches and an extension) and boy howdy did I ever stumble upon a good way to waste  and and hour and a half of my time figuring out how retarded I was.
Kilersquirrel fucked around with this message at 03:45 on May 14, 2013 |
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May 14, 2013 03:35
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Snowdens Secret posted:If you go down slow, the sliders may protect your fuel tank and bodywork. If you go down fast, your bodywork may be toast but the sliders may be enough to protect your crankcase. It's the difference between riding home with some rash and a vise grip as a clutch lever and watching a tow truck pick your dead bike out of a puddle of its own fluids. Sure, they may bend your frame (this varies widely from bike to bike and slider implementation) but a bad enough wreck may bend your frame anyway. I would have been able to ride home if it weren't for the footrest bracket snapping leaving me stuck in fourth gear. Apparently the point where the shifter bolts in is a weak point but nobody has made an aftermarket replacement bracket for it. If the slider didn't snap off like a little bitch I'd have been able to ride home. Looking at these right now. Looks like there isn't much variation between axle sliders and they're super cheap.
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May 14, 2013 04:00
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theperminator posted:GBRacing ones? that's what I've got, looks like this: Here's my engine and frame sliders after my wreck. If I didn't have them, I wouldn't have been able to sell the engine, tank, subframe, swingarm or probably anything for that matter.. (Daytona 675) I also had fork sliders front and rear as well as bar end sliders. Every slider made for the 675 was on this thing, and I'm really glad that was the case. Engine (same as the above sliders):  Frame/Swingarm:  Bike for reference:  I wish I could tell you what happened, but I have no idea. All I know is some woman swung a u-turn over a double yellow about 50 feet in front of me.
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May 14, 2013 07:21
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Yeah, I know that feeling. I still don't know what happened when a guy pulled out of an intersection in front of me. I went for everything except the front fork sliders and the swingarm pivot sliders on my current 675, didn't want my bike to look like a mug tree. Didn't scratch the plastics except for the tail, did dent the tank though (which is why people have been selling those CF tank sliders I guess.)
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May 14, 2013 07:34
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I'm also in the club of having jerkwads do u-turns in front!
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May 14, 2013 08:05
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I wish there was an easy way to put sliders or even just good tip protection on my C14. They make some big abomination cages that they use on cop bikes, but they look like a cow catcher. On the big ST front, Honda did a good thing with the lower "wings" on the 1100/1300 by integrating them into the bodywork.
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May 14, 2013 14:18
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The throttle on my bike is kinda weird. I have to actively roll off (or on? I don't know, I just mean away from you) to keep it completely closed. If I take my hand off it e.g. at a stop, the throttle drifts a little open and causes the engine to move 500-700 rpm more than idle. Is there something I can do to tighten this up?
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May 15, 2013 15:32
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You can adjust it at the bars or engine, just like the clutch cable. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_NGz3Fw9s0g Check the routing of the cables, too: when I swapped out elephant ears for drag bars on my old V-Star, the cable was way too long and not routed properly; the throttle wouldn't roll back on its own.
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May 15, 2013 16:36
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Just curious, what should the voltage across my battery be when the charging system is active? I've tried Google, but it's hard to find anything besides 12.6v for a fully charged battery, but I want to know what it should sit at while charging.
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May 15, 2013 19:15
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14ish volts.
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May 15, 2013 19:18
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Nerobro posted:14ish volts. Alright, so I'm assuming 13v is ok then. I was just morbidly curious because my buddies CBR jumps to almost 16v almost immediately after 2.5k rpm... Mine takes it sweet rear end time to jump up to 13v.
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May 15, 2013 19:21
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13v flat is too low. 13.6 or higher is fine. 16.5 is overcharging, your buddy's R/R is fried.
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May 15, 2013 21:54
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Z3n posted:13v flat is too low. 13.6 or higher is fine. 16.5 is overcharging, your buddy's R/R is fried. Source: quote:My buddies CBR
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May 15, 2013 22:11
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Z3n posted:13v flat is too low. 13.6 or higher is fine. 16.5 is overcharging, your buddy's R/R is fried. Yup.
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May 15, 2013 22:20
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1975 Honda CB360, stock carbs and jets, stock exhaust. Bike occasionally backfires, though I'm not sure that's the correct term, back through the carb on the left cylinder only. Not a loud backfire like from the exhaust, but more of a pop. I happens regardless of whether the filters are on or not. When idling I'd say it happens every 5-10 seconds. Order of things to check?
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May 16, 2013 00:35
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Gweenz posted:Order of things to check? Leakdown test on the valves. Sounds like one of them may be carboned/sticking.
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May 16, 2013 03:10
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obso posted:Leakdown test on the valves. Sounds like one of them may be carboned/sticking. Lol what? Hard to say really. Given that it's happening on one side I'd first make drat sure your ignition/spark/timing is correct before I mess with anything else. How does the bike run when you ride it? It sounds like what you are describing is a lean condition with the throttle closed - which would typically indicate pilot jet/idle jets being clogged.
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May 16, 2013 14:18
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| # ? Jun 1, 2024 02:41 |
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n8r posted:Lol what? Yep. Popping through the intake end usually means a lean pilot circuit. If you have all stock parts and jetting, have you cleaned the carbs? If so, then other adjustments would be pilot screws (or whatever your carbs have for pilot mixture adjustment), float levels (might be set for too low a fuel level), ignition timing (because carb problems are frequently ignition problems). Start with spark/ignition though.
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May 16, 2013 15:33
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