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Z3n posted:Tank breather is clogged or broken somehow and not venting. nsaP posted:Thats what it sounded like to me. I took of the gas cap assembly and took it apart. It looks pretty clean to me but I'm going to try and blow it out with some compressed air later today.
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May 17, 2013 16:26
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| # ? Jun 5, 2024 12:27 |
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There's a line that's internal to the tank that can get blocked.
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May 17, 2013 18:00
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Z3n posted:There's a line that's internal to the tank that can get blocked. Is that the one that exits under the seat?
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May 17, 2013 19:20
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I don't recall on the 250, but yes, it probably has an overflow under the seat.
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May 17, 2013 22:03
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My instrument cluster indicator lights have stopped working on the ZRX. Every single other light and function on the cluster works, and the indicators+switch themselves work fine. But the little arrows that light up to tell you which direction you're indicating don't function at all. I've replaced all the little bulbs with brand new ones which I can verify are working by swapping them around into different slots. The cluster has a simple 8-pin connector for all the lighting, there is nothing wrong there and the wires just run directly to the bulbs. I'm out of ideas now, does this ring a bell for anyone? Otherwise I have to wait to get a multimeter from work after the weekend and them not working is driving me crazy just out of OCD.
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May 18, 2013 00:14
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So I was considering getting a Screaming Eagle ( ) air intake/filter system and reboring my 883 XLH to a 1200, anyone have any opinions or experience on the Screaming Eagle filters and/or the reboring kit for the Sportster as to how worth it putting anything on is? For reference at my local dealership the air intake is about 133 and the boring kit all said and done adds up to about 1 grand.
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May 18, 2013 01:55
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ArbitraryTA posted:So I was considering getting a Screaming Eagle ( would it be cheaper to buy a cylinder kit rather than bore out your 883 ones? Just a quick look on ebay shows a bunch of complete cylinder replacement kits for upgrading the motor to 1200 for around $500.
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May 18, 2013 07:24
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So the front end on my '01 B12 is spongy as a result of a fork oil leak from a gritty fork seal. Is changing my fork seals and adding oil a difficult or timely task? Can it be done outdoors on daylight time?
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May 18, 2013 08:55
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It's pretty easy, just make sure you have the right tools to knock the seals down into place.
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May 18, 2013 09:00
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I only have a basic set of hand tools at the place I'm staying at. No jack or torque wrench either. :I Am I basically hosed? My suspension bottomed out with my girlfriend on the back when turning into a parking lot and I could tell the bike didn't like it.  (she's 125 pounds it's def not her)
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May 18, 2013 09:11
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Xovaan posted:I only have a basic set of hand tools at the place I'm staying at. No jack or torque wrench either. :I No jack basically fucks you, unless you have some other means of getting the front in the air and taking the front wheel and forks off the bike. If you want to just add oil (not really the best idea) you can pop the top off the fork stanchion with a suitably sized socket/spanner and go for gold.
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May 18, 2013 09:50
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Does no bike have a centerstand anymore? Pop onto centerstand, strap rear down/put weight on rear, do fork seals.
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May 18, 2013 10:26
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Tie it up or something if you need to, I meant the little circular thing to whack the seals themselves down into place.
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May 18, 2013 10:38
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Shimrod posted:Tie it up or something if you need to, I meant the little circular thing to whack the seals themselves down into place. That part, I've found, is usually much easier than the preceeding round of torture necessary to physically get the forks off the bike. Basically anything small and hard enough to fit between the lower tube and pipe is enough to stick a seal in, like a punch or whatever. You just whack it in very gently by tapping around the circumference bit by bit. This method is used on 90% of automotive seals and works fine. Getting the old seals out, on the other hand...
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May 18, 2013 11:06
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I assume all forks are basically the same, just pull them apart and the seals are easy to get out.
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May 18, 2013 11:57
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I guess you can pull one fork off at a time with the wheel still attached if you want to get creative/brace. My dad explained this to me while I was trying to tell him I was taking off the wheel anyway when I put new springs and juice in my forks the other day.
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May 18, 2013 13:49
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That sounds like a great way to end up with a bent axle or an ovaled out axle mount. Your bike has a centerstand, put it on that and out something heavy on the rearseat. Or jam some wood under the headers.
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May 18, 2013 16:25
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Don't got a center stand? Make one out of your side stand.ReelBigLizard posted:Take your suitably sized thingymagig, in my case this is a piece of scrap aluminium pipe that does double duty as a leverage bar in my tool box, it's got an old bit of innertube wrapped around the end dso it doesn't scratch poo poo up: I've posted this several times now. I've used this technique to change out forks, tyres and more. It works for lifting the rear too, you just put the pipe further back, perfect for oiling your chain and whatever.
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May 18, 2013 16:31
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Linedance posted:would it be cheaper to buy a cylinder kit rather than bore out your 883 ones? Just a quick look on ebay shows a bunch of complete cylinder replacement kits for upgrading the motor to 1200 for around $500. That's the way I would lean; places like Hammer Performance will get you to 1250cc for under $1000 with the new pistons already installed in the new jugs and a full gasket kit to go with it.
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May 18, 2013 16:46
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Well, the fork springs, valves, and seals were installed within 20,000 miles and still look almost new. I'm all for just adding fork oil, but the factory manual and RaceTech both specify a certain mm to the teeth that the forks should be filled to, which would warrant removing the whole front fork assembly. Argh I just don't wanna do this on a loving highway with uneven pavement. Gonna order a seal kit anyway and some #5 fork oil and hopefully be able to do this next week without loving things up too badly. 
Knot My President! fucked around with this message at 20:37 on May 18, 2013 |
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May 18, 2013 20:06
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Does anyone know of a good cheap universal garage door opener that can be placed on a bike's handlebars or something? If it were my house I'd be 100% up for wiring it into my high beams or something but I can't take the original opener apart and destroy it. I've discovered it's incredibly annoying to fit a giant garage door opener in your pocket when you wanna make a short trip without a backpack or something. Preference goes to a cheap option.
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May 18, 2013 21:18
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Find a slightly tucked away place and velcro it there. I considered the headlight thing as well but when I noticed there was a perfect little spot for it between my gas tank and frame I spent a couple bucks on velcro and was done with it.
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May 18, 2013 21:31
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I park inside the garage every night but I park outside every day at work uncovered. I was hoping for something waterproof or at least something that won't be easily stolen.
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May 18, 2013 21:36
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Xovaan posted:Well, the fork springs, valves, and seals were installed within 20,000 miles and still look almost new. I'm all for just adding fork oil, but the factory manual and RaceTech both specify a certain mm to the teeth that the forks should be filled to, which would warrant removing the whole front fork assembly. If your fork seals aren't that old try something like Sealmate and topping off the oil. A lot of times it's just debris stuck in the seal that makes them leak.
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May 18, 2013 22:04
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ReelBigLizard posted:Don't got a center stand? Make one out of your side stand. I do this exact thing, just with a floor jack instead of a random object. Many bikes have the wrong center of gravity for it though. Wasn't sure if xovaan's bike has a centerstand or not.
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May 18, 2013 22:17
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JP Money posted:I park inside the garage every night but I park outside every day at work uncovered. I was hoping for something waterproof or at least something that won't be easily stolen. Use your imagination with the location. Mine is under the gas tank so it stays dry, and if someone knows its there to steal it then they can have it. It's not visible unless you're on the ground.
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May 18, 2013 22:42
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obso posted:If your fork seals aren't that old try something like Sealmate and topping off the oil. A lot of times it's just debris stuck in the seal that makes them leak. The sealmate is literally made of exactly the same type, weight, and thickness of plastic that makes milk jugs. Did Xovaan take the center stand off his b12? Mine has one. That and a cinder block bungeed to the tail gets the front up just fine.
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May 18, 2013 22:43
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JP Money posted:Does anyone know of a good cheap universal garage door opener that can be placed on a bike's handlebars or something? If it were my house I'd be 100% up for wiring it into my high beams or something but I can't take the original opener apart and destroy it. I've discovered it's incredibly annoying to fit a giant garage door opener in your pocket when you wanna make a short trip without a backpack or something. Preference goes to a cheap option. I had a little keychain garage door remote clipped to my jacket back when I needed a garage door opener. I'd grab something like this and see if I could make it work if I were you: http://www.amazon.com/Keychain-Remo...age+door+remote
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May 18, 2013 23:17
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After some initial googling I don't think that frequency will work with my opener. If I can find a generic one that works on our frequency for pretty cheap I'm tempted to give it a shot wiring it in somehow. After putting a HID in my bike the front headlight cover is packed with a bunch of extra wiring from the kit so I'll need to get creative to stuff it in there.
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May 18, 2013 23:22
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The previous owner took the center stand off of the bike but I put it back on when I bought it. I kind of understand why he did it, though: the centerstand doesn't allow for the rear wheel to actually raise off the ground. I ordered a Sealmate and it should be here next week, but that doesn't solve the issue of low fork oil. The leak was at least was pretty bad before I cleaned it up-- likely about 10mm or more in oil height on my left fork. It's pretty noticeable under even moderate braking. I just called Catalyst Cycles near San Fran to see if they can't check it out since if I have to go that deep into the bike I might as well get the suspension set up for my height and weight. 
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May 18, 2013 23:34
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JP Money posted:After some initial googling I don't think that frequency will work with my opener. If I can find a generic one that works on our frequency for pretty cheap I'm tempted to give it a shot wiring it in somehow. After putting a HID in my bike the front headlight cover is packed with a bunch of extra wiring from the kit so I'll need to get creative to stuff it in there. Something like this would be easy to wire in parallel with the existing system, its 24v DC but that was common on door opener control panels when i worked with them. if you cant open up the actual controller but you can get at a wall switch you can connect in there and use a bigger one that runs off 12 or 9v you you can use a wall wart or a battery to power it. http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-24V-500W...=item3f2520c641 i remember there being remotes that would clone a wide range of existing ones but I cant find any with a quick google.
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May 18, 2013 23:49
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Xovaan posted:The previous owner took the center stand off of the bike but I put it back on when I bought it. I kind of understand why he did it, though: the centerstand doesn't allow for the rear wheel to actually raise off the ground. I had a leaky seal and ordered a seal mate but while I was waiting for it to ship I used either a business card or a piece of 35mm negative instead, put some grease around the top of the seal, put the dust seal back and then drained and refilled both forks. The bike never leaked again so I can verify it will fix some leaks.
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May 19, 2013 00:45
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Yo, am I going to nuke my bike if I weld something that's bolted to the frame? e: a 2008 husqvarna. Pros: No ABS to worry about. Cons: ECU and EFI to worry about. Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 02:46 on May 19, 2013 |
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May 19, 2013 02:43
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Safety Dance posted:Yo, am I going to nuke my bike if I weld something that's bolted to the frame? Unplug the efi ecu and disconnect the battery and it'll be fine.
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May 19, 2013 04:05
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I'm having an issue with my 2006 Ninja zx6r I'm hoping someone can help with. Went on a ride tonight for about twenty minutes or so. Stopped to get some gas, and the bike wouldn't start back up. It made a noise like it wanted to start, but wouldn't start. I had to bump start it. Drove it another twenty minutes and got it home and turned it off, and it wouldn't start again. This is the second time that this has happened to me. After the first time I put it on my battery tender, let it charge, and all was fine. The battery is newer, about a year old, but was on a tender all winter. The thing that is weird is I went on a half hour ride last night, and it started right up today when I wanted to ride, and it wasn't on the tender or anything overnight. Looking online, it seems like this could be an electrical issue, or could even be a heat issue where the bike is too hot and won't start because of that. The bike was about 218 degrees after I fueled up. Any ideas?
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May 19, 2013 04:36
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First thing is to go measure the voltage across your battery both running and non-running I'd say.
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May 19, 2013 04:49
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We had an issue the same as that on dads VF1000 and it turned out some of the wires were stuffed and it wasn't charging/starting some of the time. Replaced them and it works fine.
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May 19, 2013 10:34
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Can this be fixed without changing everything? 
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May 19, 2013 11:27
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zapateria posted:Can this be fixed without changing everything? Sure, those 2 phillips screws will remove the plate on the front. Behind that is a wave washer and then you can pull out that selector switch and replace it. Note that when you pull this apart any fuel in the tank is going to come pouring out so drain it best you can first. Probably worth buying a petcock rebuild kit when you go to do it. Sometimes those rubber seals don't seal as well the second time. obso fucked around with this message at 15:36 on May 19, 2013 |
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May 19, 2013 15:08
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| # ? Jun 5, 2024 12:27 |
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Xovaan posted:
Fill up the low fork to the height of the other fork, assuming that both were not leaking heavily.
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May 19, 2013 17:19
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