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I bought a Rotel CD player, if I remember correctly for about $600; this was at least ten years ago, maybe 2002. It just recently stopped playing discs. Would the cost of trying to get it repaired be stupid compared to just replacing it?
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Jun 6, 2013 06:27
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Are you actually using the XLR connectors on the thing, or just the RCA jacks? If you're not using the XLRs and you still want a CD player with a well-regarded DAC, just get this: http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-C-7030-Compact-Player-Black/dp/B004UR487A/ref=sr_1_2?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1370523786&sr=1-2 Also: Duuuuuuude, you spent 600 bucks on a CD player post-1992. What the gently caress?
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Jun 6, 2013 14:05
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I'm looking at upgrading my current speakers which came with a Yamaha HTIB setup 5+ years ago (The speakers resemble these. A while back I upgraded the receiver to an Onkyo TX-NR515 that I got an unbelievable open box deal (around $110 USD. Was this a good buy?) on and I'm realizing just how horrible they sound. So I'm looking to upgrade them. I don't have a huge budget, so I'm looking at the Polk Audio TSi series. Specifically: Floor Standing TSi400 Center Channel CS10 I'm also debating whether or not to get the side speakers as well, but I'm looking at the TSi200 for those. I like the floor standing speakers because when I heard them they seem to put out a decent amount of bass. I don't want to get a sub because I have a good relationship with my downstairs neighbors.  So, am I doing this right? Am I over spending? Is there a better combination/whatever in the same price range (+/- $100)? I've been looking at this for days and it's getting to the point where I've done too much research and am now doubting everything I read. (Those AVS guys can really gently caress with your head.)
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Jun 6, 2013 16:36
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monkeybounce posted:Is there a better combination/whatever in the same price range (+/- $100)? I'd get CS20 center channel and change the rear speakers to something cheaper. TSi100 or Monitor 30 maybe? You'll get a lot more mileage out of a better CC.
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Jun 6, 2013 16:52
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Hob_Gadling posted:I'd get CS20 center channel and change the rear speakers to something cheaper. TSi100 or Monitor 30 maybe? You'll get a lot more mileage out of a better CC. Great! Thanks. Can you explain the difference between the CS10 and CS20? I've read as much of the thread as a human brain possibly can, but I'm still really lost in the differences between speakers. I also want to keep my cc in the same series as my fronts, right? So I wouldn't want to move the CC up to the lT series or whatever it is? As far as I can tell, the difference is a few Khz in the frequency response (able to reproduce lower frequencies better?) and Mid diameter (bigger bass?). My brain still hasn't figured out an equation between these numbers and cost. Edit: I'm not doubting you and I'll do as you say, this is just very interesting to me. monkeybounce fucked around with this message at 17:39 on Jun 6, 2013 |
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Jun 6, 2013 17:20
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monkeybounce posted:Great! Thanks. Can you explain the difference between the CS10 and CS20? CS20 is top of the line in that series, and the recommended CC for TSi400 speakers. Since you don't need high quality to produce ambient sound effects (only about 10% of any sound mix should come out of surround speakers), it makes sense to save money there and use it toward the more important speakers. Center channel is the obvious place to spend the extra, because hearing speech clearly makes a big difference in the movie experience. That said, the difference between CS10 and CS20 is not huge. I'd spend the extra but you may want to try and listen for the difference between committing. I can't explain the difference in any meaningful way, especially since there are no handily available measurements. It's not very helpful to say "it'll sound better". Audio is part reference, part preference: when two products are close, it's your ears that have to decide. If you can't hear any differences get the cheaper one. Unfortunately this is not like getting a new computer where we can point to tests and choose the better product with certainty. My recommendation to you is to
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Jun 6, 2013 17:53
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Hob_Gadling posted:My recommendation to you is to I already have the heavy drinking down. I'm an IT guy. But therein lies my problem. My mind works at: specs versus cost. Sold. I can't "feel" the difference between two mother boards--I know what the difference is. I really appreciate the responses. So if I go with the TSi400 CS20 and TSi100, would you consider it a pretty good setup? At this point I'm going to hear a difference between the 20 and 10 just because I know there's a difference. I'm ready to pull the trigger, it's just a lot of money and I'd really like to have someone that knows what they're doing say "Go ahead. It's a good choice." I'm just concerned I'm buying low-end. Buyer's remorse and all that since I don't really know what I'm doing. monkeybounce fucked around with this message at 19:01 on Jun 6, 2013 |
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Jun 6, 2013 18:58
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monkeybounce posted:I already have the heavy drinking down. I'm an IT guy. But therein lies my problem. My mind works at: specs versus cost. Sold. I can't "feel" the difference between two mother boards--I know what the difference is. If at all possible, try to find a way to listen to them before hand. The thing with computers is that they're completing definite tasks, and at a specific task you can say one is definitively better than another. The task of a speaker is to produce something that sounds good to you. If you listen to the speakers and they sound the same, get the cheaper one. I can tell you about SPL and response curves all day, but it won't matter a drat bit if you like one speaker better than another. From my point of view, though, since you asked: I have Polk TSi200 speakers and they're nice, but definitely need a subwoofer. The TSi400's look like they have the same drivers, just an extra one on the bottom. A 34hz low end response is not very good for a surround sound setup. Even getting a small sub and turning the volume down low on it would be helpful. KillHour fucked around with this message at 19:51 on Jun 6, 2013 |
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Jun 6, 2013 19:45
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KillHour posted:If at all possible, try to find a way to listen to them before hand. The thing with computers is that they're completing definite tasks, and at a specific task you can say one is definitively better than another. I've listened to the floor speakers, just not the center channel. I've found a store in my area that has them in stock so I'm going to go compare this evening. My main problem is I'm going to have to do a blind test because if I know I'm listening to the CS20, it's going to sound better because it's the 'better' model.  Stupid, I know, but I think we all suffer from it to some degree.In that vein, I think my biggest concern is that I don't know how these compare to any other brands or even what their status in the market is. $600+ on speakers is kind of a big deal for me, so it'd be comforting to know that I'm getting a good value for the price. I think the line in the OP about Polk being the "value brand" has me a bit concerned that I'm just buying fancy cheap speakers and I should wait it out to get fancy nice speakers. That said, I'm not an audiophile and these will be more for watching movies than playing 96/24 flac files, so maybe I'm sperging too much? This poo poo is hard. KillHour posted:From my point of view, though, since you asked: I have Polk TSi200 speakers and they're nice, but definitely need a subwoofer. The TSi400's look like they have the same drivers, just an extra one on the bottom. A 34hz low end response is not very good for a surround sound setup. Even getting a small sub and turning the volume down low on it would be helpful. Thanks. More money to spend. Would I want to get a sub that matches the rest of the speaker or does it not matter too much? The OP indicates the front and cc shoudl be the same, but I really don't know how subs work/factor into the scenario.And again, sorry for being so spergy about this. I really do appreciate the help. monkeybounce fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Jun 6, 2013 |
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Jun 6, 2013 20:05
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monkeybounce posted:I've listened to the floor speakers, just not the center channel. I've found a store in my area that has them in stock so I'm going to go compare this evening. My main problem is I'm going to have to do a blind test because if I know I'm listening to the CS20, it's going to sound better because it's the 'better' model. I have the PSW505 sub, which is probably overkill for you since you'd have to turn it way down. That being said, if you plan on moving somewhere you can really crank it, getting one PSW505 now and one later would give you enough boom that you'd probably never feel the need to upgrade. Like I said, the TSi200's sound really nice. I plan on getting these and moving the TSi200's to the surround channels, but I don't think you'll be disappointed with the TSi400's. Edit: To make a computer analogy: Polks are considered good "budget" speakers in the sense that an i5 3750k is considered a good "budget" processor. It doesn't have hyper-threading, but it's drat good performance for the price, and nobody is going to fault you with getting one. Double Edit: Besides, unless you have a dedicated home theater room, more expensive speakers would be a waste. I'd rather spend $500 bucks on a good wall treatment than get $500 more expensive speakers. KillHour fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Jun 6, 2013 |
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Jun 6, 2013 20:16
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KillHour posted:
And that finally makes sense to me. Thanks! I'll play around at Abt tonight and hopefully have some much better sounding speakers this weekend. Do you think I'll notice a difference from what I currently have? My last main concern is the center channel. Living in the city, my living room is basically a hallway. The red squares are where I'll put the speakers, but I can't figure out how to mount the center channel. My TV is wall mounted and about 4 inches total from the wall (left side). The center is 10.75 inches, so where in the hell can I put it? Would it suck too much to put it way up high and angle it down to the couch? Also, where would I put the sub? Edit: Should know by now to just use imgur and not the forum picture upload. monkeybounce fucked around with this message at 21:32 on Jun 6, 2013 |
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Jun 6, 2013 21:24
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Any idea how much is weighs? I have my Pioneer Andrew Jones center on this and while it's a bit chintzy, I'm not too concerned about it breaking since it's not like the TV is moving. The Pioneer is around 16 lbs., though I'm not sure I'd go much bigger. There's also a version for bigger TVs. EDIT: I'm dumb and didn't read it's wall-mounted. this is cheaper and claims to hold up to 22 lbs. and is designed for wall-mounted TVs. Endless Mike fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Jun 6, 2013 |
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Jun 6, 2013 22:00
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monkeybounce posted:I've listened to the floor speakers, just not the center channel. I've found a store in my area that has them in stock so I'm going to go compare this evening. My main problem is I'm going to have to do a blind test because if I know I'm listening to the CS20, it's going to sound better because it's the 'better' model. They both claim the same sensitivity, however the c20 has larger drivers, probably making it more efficient in some of the midrange frequencies. It also has lower bass extension. I would go for the c20 if you can afford it, OR, get the "lesser" speakers all around and add that pw505 sub mentioned above. Adding a sub doesn't mean more bass or annoying the neighbors more, it just means that the bass will sound accurate and at the intended volume through the entire range.
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Jun 6, 2013 23:39
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I've been looking at my space/budget some more and looking around at what's available online... Are there any major problems with going with a floorstanding set like the Sony SS-F6000 if all I'm really aiming for is a solid 2.1 or 3.1 setup? They're eminently affordable and look like they would fit in the space (and fit in with the decor) pretty nicely. Edit: Got the model wrong. Oops. tarepanda fucked around with this message at 02:14 on Jun 7, 2013 |
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Jun 7, 2013 00:44
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tarepanda posted:Are there any major problems with going with a floorstanding set like the Sony F-S6000 if all I'm really aiming for is a solid 2.1 or 3.1 setup? No, that's what I do with my home theater: floorstanding fronts and bookshelf rears. I wouldn't buy Sony speakers without giving them a listen beforehand. In my opinion Sony products have a dry, unexciting sound that isn't necessarily a joy to listen to for prolonged periods. On the other hand the sound isn't strictly speaking bad either and they are very cheap. If they sound good enough to you, that's all that matters. If movies are your primary form of media get a center channel. If you mostly listen to music, then CC isn't important.
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Jun 7, 2013 02:11
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I'm half-deaf so pretty much all speakers sound the same to me. :x What center channel would you recommend? I've been told to buy these things in the same series, but I can't find a center in that series. Ditto for sub.
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Jun 7, 2013 02:12
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tarepanda posted:What center channel would you recommend? I've been told to buy these things in the same series, but I can't find a center in that series. Ditto for sub. Sony SS-CN5000 http://www.amazon.co.jp/%E3%82%BD%E...words=SS-CN5000 SA-W3000 http://www.amazon.co.jp/%E3%82%BD%E3%83%8B%E3%83%BC-SA-W3000-M/dp/B000X3J5KK/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1370567803&sr=1-1 SS-B1000 is the bookshelf speaker in the series, in case you ever want to get surrounds.
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Jun 7, 2013 02:15
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This is a long shot, but does anybody know if an A/V receiver exists with 3 component inputs and at least 3 HDMI inputs? I ask this for two reasons: a) I just ordered a Roku 3 and need to pass its HDMI output through a receiver because, like most TVs, mine downmixes audio to 2-channel through its digital output (Vizio E470VLE). Also, my TV only has two HDMI inputs anyway, and they're tied up by my DVR and Xbox 360. b) I'm currently using a Psyclone PSC-01 A/V switch to connect an original Xbox, PS2, and Wii to the single Y/Pb/Pr component on my TV. I'd like to eliminate the need for this device, if possible. Plenty of receivers exist that have 2x component and multiple HDMI inputs, and I've found at least one with 3x component and 2x HDMI, but so far, I haven't found a magical device that has at least 3 of each. I'm going to guess that the only way to achieve what I want would be to get a receiver with 2 component inputs and 3+ HDMI inputs and swap my TV out for one with 2 component inputs (and I'm not even sure any TVs with this feature set are still in production these days), giving me a total of 3 switchable component inputs. Messy, I know, but a Logitech Harmony remote will be handling everything.
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Jun 7, 2013 04:27
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monkeybounce posted:Also, where would I put the sub? Regarding the sub - specifically the PSW505, wait for it to drop in price again. I bought mine a couple weeks ago for $179 from Amazon. I then put another one in my shopping basket the other day, but didn't complete the purchase because I saw something shiny or who knows what, but forgot. Next day the price is $232. gently caress.... I loaded up a price-tracker, and that sub is often at $179, so I just stuck a price alert at $185 and am waiting for it to drop again. It shouldn't be a terribly long history based on the price tracking shown below, so save yourself 50+ dollars and wait for it. 
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Jun 7, 2013 04:52
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Zorilla posted:This is a long shot, but does anybody know if an A/V receiver exists with 3 component inputs and at least 3 HDMI inputs? Marantz SR5003 and above in the series. HDMI 1.3 only, though.
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Jun 7, 2013 05:20
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Hob_Gadling posted:Sony SS-CN5000 Pulled the trigger on the SS-F6000 and SS-CN5000 since I found a good deal (22980 yen, free shipping)... even though I don't have a receiver yet. :x
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Jun 7, 2013 05:44
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Zorilla posted:This is a long shot, but does anybody know if an A/V receiver exists with 3 component inputs and at least 3 HDMI inputs? I ask this for two reasons: Get one of these. http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10114&cs_id=1011406&p_id=5971&seq=1&format=2 4+ HDMI inputs with 2 component is easy. http://us.onkyo.com/Products/model.php?m=TX-NR525&class=Receiver&source=RelatedModels
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Jun 7, 2013 13:27
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The Locator posted:Regarding the sub - specifically the PSW505, wait for it to drop in price again. It's $150 at the moment. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882290130
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Jun 7, 2013 18:45
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upsciLLion posted:It's $150 at the moment. It was more expensive on newegg than Amazon when I checked. Thanks for posting that, time to get the second one.
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Jun 7, 2013 18:51
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The Locator posted:It was more expensive on newegg than Amazon when I checked. Thanks for posting that, time to get the second one. Are you using anything for EQ on the subwoofer ?
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Jun 7, 2013 23:33
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Listerine posted:I bought a Rotel CD player, if I remember correctly for about $600; this was at least ten years ago, maybe 2002. It just recently stopped playing discs. Would the cost of trying to get it repaired be stupid compared to just replacing it? Can you give a little more detail on what exactly happens when you turn the unit on, insert a disc and hit play? At which stage does it stop working? The exact model would also help. If it doesn't start at all, it's possible it's just a blown fuse. Replacing a fuse is cheap.
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Jun 8, 2013 00:32
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Listerine posted:I bought a Rotel CD player, if I remember correctly for about $600; this was at least ten years ago, maybe 2002. It just recently stopped playing discs. Would the cost of trying to get it repaired be stupid compared to just replacing it? Depends on the amp you have. If the amp/receiver is somewhat new, transporting the signal from the CD player to the Amp digitally and letting the amp decode the signal would probably be better. D/A converters even in cheaper receivers are much better than high end D/A converters from 2002.
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Jun 8, 2013 00:56
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Hob_Gadling posted:Can you give a little more detail on what exactly happens when you turn the unit on, insert a disc and hit play? At which stage does it stop working? The exact model would also help. The unit turns on fine, it's the RCC-955. The carousel seems to rotate fine. Some CDs it just plain does not detect- the carousel will rotate to the disc, and after a moment, it just moves on to the next tray as if there was no disc loaded. This is consistent for the disc- if I move it to another tray, the player will not detect it in the new tray. It's not a problem with the tray either because discs that are detected and player do so regardless of the tray into which they are loaded. For some discs, the player will detect it, and be able to read and correctly display the track data, but when I actually hit play, there is a faint ticking noise and then the player moves on to the next tray. So some discs will be detected but not played, and it sounds like the player is trying but failing to do something, which leads to the disc skip. The other day- what prompted me to post- I turned the player on and it refused to play anything, I could hear the faint ticking and then it would skip to the next disc, and go through the entire carousel. Today it's back to playing some discs and not others. I bought it as part of a full Rotel system, but since then my hearing has not fared well- too many heavy metal shows- and I'm not sure I could tell the difference any more in higher end components. So if it were to cost me, for instance, $400 to get it repaired, I might just be better off picking up that Onkyo that was recommended. It may not be worth my money getting another audiophile-rated player. The only thing that would push me that way again are vacuum tube players, which I've just heard about, such as this one from Jolida. But are these things snake oil?
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Jun 8, 2013 01:36
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jonathan posted:Are you using anything for EQ on the subwoofer ? Not at the moment, no. I don't have a cool measuring device that charts stuff for me like you do, so just use my ears, so I'm not sure whether I'd make things better or worse by loving with the EQ on the subs. I got the new center channel today, and will have the other sub sometime next week. After that maybe I'll upgrade the rear speakers, but need to look at new mounting if I get anything with much weight at all. Once that's done and I see how it sounds after running the Audyssy setup I'll decide whether I need to invest in some sort of low-end EQ device. Is there something you recommend for basic tuning of subs?
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Jun 8, 2013 02:07
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I recently moved my center channel speaker from below my TV to above it (ontop a shelf I made) and re-ran the YPAO auto configuration on my Yamaha receiver. Now the center speaker is showing up as reverse wiring / out of phase, even though I double checked the wire and it's plugged into the proper color on each end. I'm not sure what really caused this, but I tried resetting the receiver to factory defaults and reconfiguring, but that didn't help. I also tried a new strand of cable but that didn't change anything. So does it sound like YPAO is messing up or could something else be wrong? Is there a way to force the wiring setting to be normal instead of reverse?
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Jun 8, 2013 02:25
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Listerine posted:For some discs, the player will detect it, and be able to read and correctly display the track data, but when I actually hit play, there is a faint ticking noise and then the player moves on to the next tray. So some discs will be detected but not played, and it sounds like the player is trying but failing to do something, which leads to the disc skip. Sounds like error correction tries to read the disc a couple times and fails. Two easy things to try are disconnecting the whole unit from wall for a moment and cleaning your CD discs before inserting them. If those do not work and you feel adventurous you can try cleaning the laser lens. If not (or that does not work) contact Rotel customer support and see if they have ideas or offer you a discount on upgrade.
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Jun 8, 2013 02:36
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Listerine posted:The unit turns on fine, it's the RCC-955. The carousel seems to rotate fine. Some CDs it just plain does not detect- the carousel will rotate to the disc, and after a moment, it just moves on to the next tray as if there was no disc loaded. This is consistent for the disc- if I move it to another tray, the player will not detect it in the new tray. It's not a problem with the tray either because discs that are detected and player do so regardless of the tray into which they are loaded. How is the CD player hooked up to the rest of your system? There are 2 parts of a CD player that matter: the DAC and the amplifier. That CD player doesn't look like it has a built in amplifier, so the only important piece of equipment in there is the DAC, assuming you're using the analog outputs. If you're using the digital coax output, then there is literally no difference in sound between your CD player and this for 100 bucks: http://www.amazon.com/TEAC-PD-D2610...ductDescription Edit: I have no idea why the gently caress anybody would buy a cd player with vacuum tubes other than to say they own a cd player with vacuum tubes. That player even has a digital output. Seriously, what the gently caress? Double edit: I guarantee the DAC in that Onkyo I posted earlier is better than the DAC in your Rotel. "Audiophile-rated" CD players are ALL snake oil bullshit. KillHour fucked around with this message at 05:32 on Jun 8, 2013 |
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Jun 8, 2013 05:23
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I've been using the analog outputs.KillHour posted:I have no idea why the gently caress anybody would buy a cd player with vacuum tubes other than to say they own a cd player with vacuum tubes. That player even has a digital output. Seriously, what the gently caress? That's what I figured, but I literally just heard about them and hadn't looked into them to see if I was missing something. It didn't make much sense but I don't pay attention to a lot of the tech. Thanks for the Onkyo link, I appreciate it. Listerine fucked around with this message at 06:36 on Jun 8, 2013 |
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Jun 8, 2013 06:34
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UncleGuito posted:I recently moved my center channel speaker from below my TV to above it (ontop a shelf I made) and re-ran the YPAO auto configuration on my Yamaha receiver. Now the center speaker is showing up as reverse wiring / out of phase, even though I double checked the wire and it's plugged into the proper color on each end. I'm not sure what really caused this, but I tried resetting the receiver to factory defaults and reconfiguring, but that didn't help. I also tried a new strand of cable but that didn't change anything. are you able to ignore the warning ? This isn't that uncommon. My Pioneer used to do the same thing.
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Jun 8, 2013 07:38
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The Locator posted:Not at the moment, no. Which version of audyssey are you running ? With 2 subs, you may find that a simple level adjustment is all that is needed to get it close.
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Jun 8, 2013 07:39
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jonathan posted:Which version of audyssey are you running ? With 2 subs, you may find that a simple level adjustment is all that is needed to get it close. I just have the crappy version (2EQ?) that doesn't EQ the sub(s). I have no idea why, but every time I run Audyssey (re-ran tonight with the new center) it sets the sub at -15db, where the bass is pretty much non-existant to my ears. I end up adjusting it to around -7 range, depending on the source (this is for music). Should I adjust the gain on the sub down to where I end up with it at +/-3db, or does it really matter as long as I've got plenty of adjustment either way? Currently the gain on the sub is set to just below half. The old center was set to 120hz crossover by Audyssey. The new center was set to 40hz crossover (I changed it to 80hz, along with the fronts, is this correct?). It's apparently a little bit better at reproducing sound than the little old one.
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Jun 8, 2013 08:33
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Woot has a Harman Kardon AVR-154 5.1-Channel A/V Receiver on serious markdown today, new, not a refurb. Is this thing any good? It's discontinued on Newegg. I've been thinking of setting up a home theater with a projector and either 2.1 or 5.1 speakers and this receiver is a lot cheaper than others I've seen. http://sellout.woot.com/offers/harman-kardon-5-1-channel-a-v-receiver
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Jun 8, 2013 17:06
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Clanpot Shake posted:Is this thing any good? Kinda, but... It's only got 3 HDMI 1.3 ports (lots of legacy ports though). It's very light on features (no networking, no Audyssey, no on-screen menu display with HDMI). The firmware may need to be updated out of the box due to HDCP problems. I'd only seriously consider getting one if I had a lot of old consoles etc. that I wanted to connect. Anything HDMI related, absolutely not. It probably sounds nice. It's just not worth the aggravation.
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Jun 8, 2013 17:36
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The Locator posted:I just have the crappy version (2EQ?) that doesn't EQ the sub(s). Yes. Set your front stage at 80. Or 60. Or 40. If you have a single sub, letting the fronts share the bass duties will smooth out the bass response around the room. Once you have 2 subs I would set all your mains to 80. As for the sub gain adjustment, audyssey can only cut a channel down so far. -15db is the limit. I would rerun audyssey and adjust the sub gain until its only trimming the sub +-3db. That should get you proper bass volume. If you have dynamic EQ, turn that on as well and see if you like it. If you don't have dynamic EQ, and you feel the bass is too flat (lots of people feel that reference flat bass is just boring) bump your receivers subwoofer trim up 3db.
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Jun 8, 2013 18:21
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KillHour posted:Get one of these. Thanks. This tipped me off to the fact that Onkyo has some other affordable models that seem to meet all my requirements (e.g. the TX-SR705). Up to this point, I was looking a Harman Kardon receivers because they're just so drat pretty. I'm a sucker for looks, but if the price is right... This brings up a complicated question though: many Onkyo receivers seem to only have 4-5 selectable inputs. If I have, say, 6 video sources I want to switch between (3x HDMI and 3x component, in my case), is it possible to pair up video sources on each input and have one take precedence over the other? My only past experience with Onkyo receivers is a TX-SR404 from 2002 that let me do this with S/PDIF audio sources. After looking at some A/V forums on this topic, the consensus seems to be that you can assign one HDMI and one component source per input, which would probably work just fine. Does this sound accurate? If so, are the priorities reversible (as in, fall back to HDMI if the assigned component source is not active instead of the reverse)? I'm guessing the answer is "no", but I figured I'd ask. My DVR and Roku 3 are always-on devices, so I can't just shut them off and yield control to a component source. Edit: reading this AVS Forum thread about the receiver I'm looking at getting (specifically, topic 19 under "Owner FAQ") suggests that I can assign one of the rear physical HDMI sources to the front Aux input, leaving nothing sticking out of the front. This would buy me a 5th input to work with, meaning I could cram in all 6 of my devices and only have to double-up one pair of devices into a common input. Things would be so much easier if manufacturers would just provide one input per physical source with generic labels like "Video 1" instead of ridiculous poo poo like my current Yamaha RX-V540's permanently-labeled "MD/CD-R" input. I bought it in 2004 and Minidisc was long dead, even back then. Zorilla fucked around with this message at 21:06 on Jun 8, 2013 |
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Jun 8, 2013 20:20
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