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Wootcannon posted:How does one go about finding a puncture in a tire, is it rubbing soapy water all over the tire then pumping it up and looking for the bubbles? Also, what's a good repair kit to buy? Have only now realised after a couple of hundred miles* it's been going to 10psi within a day of refilling. Oops. I've got a feeling I've scunnered the pump valve using petrol station air pumps, there's a bunch of cracks in one side of the rubber on the valve. Am hoping that's merely a cover, not the valve itself burst, but if it is is the tire completely hosed or can that be repaired? The rubber is the valve stem, so get that thing replaced.
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Jun 18, 2013 17:39
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Question about my SV650: Yesterday, while out riding, my shift lever was hanging in the up position after shifts. If I needed to upshift again after that, I'd have to fiddle with the lever until it popped back down, and then shift. The weird thing is that it only happened on one ten minute trip, but it was fine for the rest of the day and feeling like normal. It happened again today, and again, it was fine when I went to work, but then on the way back, it was hanging. If it could possibly be related, both times have been after the bike has been sitting in the sun for awhile. I'm not familiar enough with the shift internals to make an educated guess.
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Jun 18, 2013 17:39
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I had the exact same problem on my 2004, and asked about it in this very thread last year. The shifter felt like it was in sixth gear ("solid") when it wasn't. It happened for me with varying frequency over a couple of weeks, and then went away never to come back? 
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Jun 18, 2013 17:47
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AncientTV posted:Question about my SV650: It's probably shift externals. Give everything a shot of WD-40 to get any moisture/rust out, then some real lube. You may just have a sticky pivot, especially if it's been rained on recently and lubed less recently.
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Jun 18, 2013 17:47
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Z3n posted:The rubber is the valve stem, so get that thing replaced. As in the entire tire, or just the stem?
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Jun 18, 2013 17:49
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Wootcannon posted:As in the entire tire, or just the stem? Just the stem. You can pull the stem out with a big pair of pliers, then put a new one in from the inside after breaking the bead.
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Jun 18, 2013 17:49
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Just the stem. You can pull the stem out with a big pair of pliers, then put a new one in from the inside after breaking the bead. Apologies, never done anything like that before - take the tire off e: the rim, yes? I suppose that'd give me time to replace the front brake disc and pads which I've been meaning to do for loving ages. Wootcannon fucked around with this message at 17:59 on Jun 18, 2013 |
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Jun 18, 2013 17:51
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Nidhg00670000 posted:I had the exact same problem on my 2004, and asked about it in this very thread last year. The shifter felt like it was in sixth gear ("solid") when it wasn't. It happened for me with varying frequency over a couple of weeks, and then went away never to come back? Hopefully mine is as fleeting. babyeatingpsychopath posted:It's probably shift externals. Give everything a shot of WD-40 to get any moisture/rust out, then some real lube. You may just have a sticky pivot, especially if it's been rained on recently and lubed less recently. I'll give it a shot, grazie.
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Jun 18, 2013 17:53
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Wootcannon posted:Apologies, never done anything like that before - take the tire off e: the rim, yes? I suppose that'd give me time to replace the front brake disc and pads which I've been meaning to do for loving ages. Fortunately, no. You don't have to get the tire wholly off the rim. The valve stem inserts into the rim from the inside, so you just have to push a flap of tire out of the way enough for you to be able to access the valve stem hole from the inside. A hard, flat surface that won't scratch your rims, a decent-sized body that won't move that you can use to lever, and a 2x4 are all you need to break a bead. If you have an air compressor, you can also set the bead when you're done. edit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=grunCumm8go just like this.
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Jun 18, 2013 20:50
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yergacheffe posted:Also, make sure you have the correct tools ready before you begin. Nothing is more frustrating than running into a showstopper because you don't have the right tool. But then you have this other tool... that might just work... then you hose a bolt or screw and waste 10 hours trying to get it out FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU Speaking of - what would you consider the tools to get when starting out?
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Jun 19, 2013 01:15
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Speaking of Seafoam, when is the best time to put it in the gas tank? Empty or full?
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Jun 19, 2013 01:57
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I think I'm running into battery issues, now that the weather has turned hot. The other day after work, the Vstar was slow to turn over but it did start. I checked the voltage when I got home, 12.8v. I skipped taking the bike today and checked it again when I got home: 12.8v. When I tried to start it, it was very slow to crank and did not fire. I checked the voltage again and it read 9.7v. I plugged the battery tender in and tried it again, the bike immediately fired up. Voltage across the battery while at a running RPM (no tach, I'd guess 3k) it read 13.7v. Time for a new battery? Any one in particular to get?
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Jun 19, 2013 02:07
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Yep, not sure on brands in the US though. I just get whatever they have at the bike shop. Never had an issue with the Katana brand.
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Jun 19, 2013 02:35
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:It's probably shift externals. Give everything a shot of WD-40 to get any moisture/rust out, then some real lube. You may just have a sticky pivot, especially if it's been rained on recently and lubed less recently. This worked like a charm, it's smooth as butter now. I hadn't thought about it before, but I rode through a storm recently and I'm guessing that was it.
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Jun 19, 2013 03:50
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vwman18 posted:I think I'm running into battery issues, now that the weather has turned hot. The other day after work, the Vstar was slow to turn over but it did start. I checked the voltage when I got home, 12.8v. I skipped taking the bike today and checked it again when I got home: 12.8v. When I tried to start it, it was very slow to crank and did not fire. I checked the voltage again and it read 9.7v. I plugged the battery tender in and tried it again, the bike immediately fired up. Voltage across the battery while at a running RPM (no tach, I'd guess 3k) it read 13.7v. OEM is good, or you can go with batteries plus AGMs. Anything AGM is likely a solid choice. And yes, sounds like your battery is trashed. prukinski posted:Speaking of - what would you consider the tools to get when starting out? In a list: Metric Wrenches Metric Rachets, with 6 point standard and deep set sockets - you want a low profile ratchet head if possible. Hammer hand impact driver Vice Grip Adjustable Wrench a set of allen keys Beam type torque wrench for big nuts/bolts Assortment of screwdrivers 0-300 inch pound torque wrench for small things like cam caps Punch drift dremel deadfall hammer needle nose pliers normal pliers vice grips magnet on a stick mirror on a stick 18 inch, 1/2 inch drive breaker bar 1/2 inch to 3/8ths inch driver adapter 1/2 inch drive 6 point sockets for the big nuts like axle nuts, triple tree nuts, swingarm nuts RTV (use sparingly) locktite (use regularly) antisieze For chains and sprockets: Find a stockton tool chain breaker for cheap/on sale electric impact wrench if you want to do front sprockets for countershaft nuts That'd get you started, the other tools you should buy as you need them, stuff like snap ring pliers and the like. notZaar posted:Speaking of Seafoam, when is the best time to put it in the gas tank? Empty or full? Doesn't matter, it's about the ratio of gas to seafoam that's important. I tend to go heavy on the seafoam with premium gas.
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Jun 19, 2013 05:00
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notZaar posted:Speaking of Seafoam, when is the best time to put it in the gas tank? Empty or full? Alternatively pick up a can and suck it into the carbs through a vacuum line while the bike is idling. Suck the whole bottle in slowly so the engine doesn't kill and spread it between all the carbs if applicable. When it gets towards the bottom of the can I like to submerge the vacuum line completely and suck in enough to kill the engine, let it sit for 10-20 minutes then go ride the hell out of it. This has worked better for me on various cars/bikes/mowers than just running it in the gas. Plus it makes a poo poo load of smoke...seriously do this outside with a breeze.
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Jun 19, 2013 14:20
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Z3n posted:OEM is good, or you can go with batteries plus AGMs. Anything AGM is likely a solid choice. And yes, sounds like your battery is trashed. Pretty solid list. Add a tub of general purpose grease to it. If you get into electrical stuff, you can fold in some good stripping/cutting/crimping tools (not the universal one that comes with that electrical tool kit at AutoZone), a multi-meter, a test lamp, a decent soldering gun, rosin solder, flux, etc.
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Jun 19, 2013 17:23
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Oh, yeah, a multimeter should definitely be on that list. Good catch, totally forgot about electrical problems. Also if you buy a Harley you get to buy all those tools plus the imperial ones because Harleys have a hodgepodge of connectors depending on how deep you get into them! 
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Jun 19, 2013 17:57
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NitroSpazzz posted:Alternatively pick up a can and suck it into the carbs through a vacuum line while the bike is idling. Suck the whole bottle in slowly so the engine doesn't kill and spread it between all the carbs if applicable. When it gets towards the bottom of the can I like to submerge the vacuum line completely and suck in enough to kill the engine, let it sit for 10-20 minutes then go ride the hell out of it. That sounds nuts. I put in the recommended 1oz/gallon amount today after draining the tank and then I refilled it and topped it off. I went for a ride but I still get the same problem: If I have the throttle fairly wide open for an extended period (say a few minutes at 5-6k RPM), it runs fine. The problem is when I need to stop, as soon as I let off the throttle the engine will stall. Then it won't start without choke AND generous throttling after the motor starts turning over. Is it the carbs? The guy who sold it to me promised me they had just been cleaned out (yeah yeah I know, I'm a sucker), I really don't want to break them apart to clean. Maybe I'll try it your way, putting the rest of the can right into the carbs.
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Jun 19, 2013 18:04
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NitroSpazzz posted:Alternatively pick up a can and suck it into the carbs through a vacuum line while the bike is idling. Suck the whole bottle in slowly so the engine doesn't kill and spread it between all the carbs if applicable. When it gets towards the bottom of the can I like to submerge the vacuum line completely and suck in enough to kill the engine, let it sit for 10-20 minutes then go ride the hell out of it. The problem with this is it doesn't actually pass the seafoam through the passages that you're trying to clean - the jets. If you feed it pre-airbox, you're just mixing seafoam with air. If you're pulling it in from a sync tube or petcock vent, it's never passing through the jets that are clogged either. Now, it can have other advantages, but it's not going to do anything more than fresh gas would do for a bike in this situation with regards to the carbs. I'd add way more than 1oz a gallon, probably half the bottle in the tank and go run the poo poo out of it. But it sounds like you have a fuel delivery issue more than a carb problem. What bike, and can you run it on prime?
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Jun 19, 2013 18:24
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Z3n posted:The problem with this is it doesn't actually pass the seafoam through the passages that you're trying to clean - the jets. If you feed it pre-airbox, you're just mixing seafoam with air. If you're pulling it in from a sync tube or petcock vent, it's never passing through the jets that are clogged either. True this isn't much for cleaning carbs which I didn't read is what was trying to be done. This cleans out the rest of the engine pretty good. I usually just tear into the carbs if they need to be cleaned or soak them overnight.
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Jun 19, 2013 18:32
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It's an 83 Suzuki GS550L. I just checked the petcock, the prime and vacuum feed both work and the bike idles about the same on either.
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Jun 19, 2013 19:06
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notZaar posted:It's an 83 Suzuki GS550L. I just checked the petcock, the prime and vacuum feed both work and the bike idles about the same on either. Where is the idle screw set? Could be too low. Otherwise, your pilot circuit needs love. On an 83, you have CV carbs, so one pilot mixture screw per carb. That you need a lot of choke to idle suggests lean, so turn the screw out (IIRC) to increase the fuel ratio in the pilot. You may still have to tear down the carbs though. http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/mc_maint/GS_CV_Carb_Cleaning_Series.pdf http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/Mikuni_BS-CV_Carburetor_Rebuild_Tutorial.pdf These tell you everything you need to know for that job. HTH
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Jun 19, 2013 19:42
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notZaar posted:It's an 83 Suzuki GS550L. I just checked the petcock, the prime and vacuum feed both work and the bike idles about the same on either. Did it work fine before? If it did, then you probably need to clean the hell out of the carbs, including the air fuel screw and passage. If it didn't work right before, pull everything apart, clean it, set it all to stock (a/f screw, float heights, remove shims from needles unless you have a jet kit and instructions). I'd also try swapping it to prime and running it in case your petcock is failing. Idle isn't enough because you're not drawing enough gas to expose a fuel flow issue. Hell, the bike will idle on the fuel in the bowls for a minute or 2 with no fresh fuel in it.
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Jun 19, 2013 20:36
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AncientTV posted:This worked like a charm, it's smooth as butter now. I hadn't thought about it before, but I rode through a storm recently and I'm guessing that was it. Good to hear. I recently moved from the desert to the swamp, and the list of things I've never had to lube before is rapidly growing. Sidestand, shifter linkage, brake linkage, locks, pivots, and anything that is even mildly bare metal gets rust in hours here.
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Jun 19, 2013 21:29
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E: Any other methods of breaking the bead because this lever and 2x4 thing is doing gently caress all. IRC NR-73s, if that helps.
Wootcannon fucked around with this message at 00:42 on Jun 20, 2013 |
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Jun 19, 2013 22:08
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Large c-clamp?
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Jun 19, 2013 22:49
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Someone on this forum once used a large quick grip, IIRC.
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Jun 20, 2013 00:33
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Cheers for the C-clamp tip. One last thing - I do have a tire iron with the car jack I'm using, the only thing is I'm mildly concerned about popping the tire or bending the rim, as the rim bent slightly when I was prying. Am I being too cautious? And if so, is it just pry until I hear a pop/feel the resistance drop?
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Jun 20, 2013 00:41
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Hey Goons I am looking to buy a bike, but I have never ridden before. What is a good starter bike that's cheap just to learn the basics on? I've ridden bicycles since I was a kid so I am okay on counter steering but I know I am going to gently caress up a few times, so I am going to wait and buy a BMW 1200r after my learner bike.
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Jun 20, 2013 03:45
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Wokrider posted:Hey Goons I am looking to buy a bike, but I have never ridden before. Altogether now: Kawasaki Ninja Two Fiddy e: Anything special about you? Are you a 3'2" little person? A 7'1" mountain of a man, second cousin of Yao Ming and besties with Andre the Giant's relatives? Generally speaking, for average people who haven't motorcycle'd before, a used, dirt cheap Ninja 250 is the best bike to learn on. You can sell it after a year once you have an idea which motorcycling Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 04:21 on Jun 20, 2013 |
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Jun 20, 2013 04:19
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Wokrider posted:Hey Goons I am looking to buy a bike, but I have never ridden before. You want the Tell me what bike to buy thread.
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Jun 20, 2013 04:20
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notZaar posted:It's an 83 Suzuki GS550L. I just checked the petcock, the prime and vacuum feed both work and the bike idles about the same on either. OH look, a bike I know inside out. Stop screwing around. Clean the carbs, properly. That means drilling out, and cleaning both pilot screws on both carbs. If you do nothing else, pull, clean, and reseat these. Right where the screwdriver is pointing, NOT the slides. Those.. really don't ever need cleaning.  Set them 2.5 turns out. As I found, they will not self clean. I've tried. Large doses of fuel system cleaner for 2-3k miles. Also, replace the carb boot o-rings. It's only six screws to pull the carb boots off, do it. The stock o-rings will quite literally crack and fall out. I've had them shatter when dropped. If you're having trouble pulling the carbs, you should be able to pull hte battery, and slide the airbox back. I think that's how it works on the L. I have owned two ES's. Check the charging system. If you can get it to start, get the rpm up to 5k, and check the voltage across the battery. it should be something over 13v, ideally over 14, less than 14.5. If it isn't, say something, we'll talk about the r/r. (it sounds like you have a weak battery, which could be a sign of a weak charging system.) The stock R/R is weak, and burns out. It often takes out the stator with it. I had to rewind my stator. Skreemer and I both are (or were) running GSXR r/r's in our GS550's. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 04:25 on Jun 20, 2013 |
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Jun 20, 2013 04:22
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Nerobro posted:OH look, a bike I know inside out. I have a 2009 CBR R/R in my GS.
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Jun 20, 2013 04:27
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Tamir Lenk posted:I have a 2009 CBR R/R in my GS. I've got a CX500 r/r in my 6/550. The problem with recommending Honda, is that Honda is completely unpredictable as to what sort of regulator system they'll use. Going with an "EFI or later" GSXR r/r means you get a r/r that's good for something like 60 amps. Underloading the r/r keeps it cool.
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Jun 20, 2013 04:39
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Wokrider posted:Hey Goons I am looking to buy a bike, but I have never ridden before. Edit also if you're like me it will feel huge until you get used to it and then full sized bikes will seem huge but I guess this is normal.
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Jun 20, 2013 04:42
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Nerobro posted:OH look, a bike I know inside out. Ah god, you're killing me. I remember what a chore it was to clean out the carbs on my tiny little 125cc scooter, this is twice the work and then some  I guess there's no easy fix here eh? I've tried riding with the petcock on prime, same thing happened. If I let go of the throttle after holding it medium open for a while, the engine stalls out. I can keep it alive by slowly throttling back, so I guess I'll adjust my riding habits until I have the time to pull this poo poo apart and clean it. edit: The bike starts up just fine now. I slapped a new battery in it earlier this week. I'll check the voltage as soon as I find a not-poo poo multimeter. FedEx Mercury fucked around with this message at 04:52 on Jun 20, 2013 |
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Jun 20, 2013 04:45
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Fifty Three posted:Read Safety Dance's post until you buy a Ninja 250. Unless you're far outside of normal dimensions it's perfect. Don't be fooled by the old school sport bike fairings, it's very neutral. I'm thankful every day that I started on my Ninjette and I'll be sad to sell it. Thanks Goons for the fast replies, I read the entire bike wiki so I was thinking the 250 but I wasn't sure how old the article was. Any opinions on the BMW 1200r? I've been watching alot of RoadcraftNottingham videos to get some mental preparation for riding.
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Jun 20, 2013 04:50
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Do not buy a 1200cc sportybike as a first bike. The K1200R is an enormous motorcycle that is heavy and weird-handling and ultrafast and covered with expensive parts. If you don't want a Ninja 250 there are other options but a K1200R is about as far from those as you can get. E: also I'm not sure of your age / location but insurance cost on a 1200cc sportybike as a new rider is ruinous
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Jun 20, 2013 05:16
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Sorry I should have wrote that better. My plan is to buy the ninja 250 and learn on that for a year or two and sell it and buy the 1200r. I'm 5'11 190lbs, and I am trying to join the navy at the end of this month so I am not sure how their insurance rates are. Wokrider fucked around with this message at 05:35 on Jun 20, 2013 |
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Jun 20, 2013 05:21
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